Q: Mushroom Matching

[southern girl]

Cabrales noted that according to Food Arts, pine mushrooms found in B.C. are expected to be included in your Fall/Winter 2002 menu. Would you please discuss how you choose to pair each of the different types of mushrooms (other local mushrooms, chanterelles, porcini, and trompes de la mort) with other ingredients (meats, spices, vegetables) in your dishes and the role they play in your creation of sauces at Ouest. I am looking forward to enjoying Ouest in person while I am in Vancouver next week for The Air Canada Championship.

[d.hawksworth]

I couldn't resist the mushroom question. In the fall I do base a few sauces around wild mushrooms, most of my cuisine is based on traditional methods with a lighter touch. Instead of cream being the main ingredient of a sauce I'll use light stocks but with an over riding point to make each sauce as intense yet delicate as possible. Chanterelles are in full force at the minute and are just about perfect (firm, bright and very tasty) a favourite of mine is using a shallot stock. First a quick sauté of the mushrooms and a double chicken stock infused with plenty of tiny minced shallots and thyme, then poured over the chantrelles, reduced further and finished with tomato concasse, chives, a tiny pinch of butter, and a squeeze of lemon juice. This goes exceptionally well with 'meaty' fish like halibut and lingcod.

Pine mushrooms are almost in season and I've prepared them numerous ways. The latest dish was carpaccio, using a Japanese mandolin. I'll probably give it a try with some duck ham (cured and air dried duck breast) the strong flavour of the ham works well with such a pungent mushroom and some organic olive oil

The Squab dish is also benefiting from the chantrelles and comes with a caramelized shallot and foie gras ravioli, finished with a Madeira jus.

The list could go on and on, wild mushrooms are a favourite of mine.

[Blue Heron]

Chef Hawksworth,

When you refer to your local pine mushroom, is that the same as the tasty and elusive matsutake? mmmm...

[d.hawksworth]

OH YEAH