When in Paris

[FoodMuse]

While I'm in Paris next month (for the 1st time!) I'll try to picnic for many of my lunches. I'd love to hear what you like to pack in your basket and where you like to buy it, if you have a favorite shop.

Also, it seems that some parks let you sit on the grass and others don't. Have you seen any good websites that list this or other picnic spots?

Do supermarkets sell wine or only liquor stores?

Thanks.

[Ptipois]

While I'm in Paris next month (for the 1st time!) I'll try to picnic for many of my lunches.  I'd love to hear what you like to pack in your basket and where you like to buy it, if you have a favorite shop.

Not particularly wishing to send you to overpriced fancy places like Le (Pas) Bon Marché and Lafayette Gourmet (but if it's OK to splurge, the choice of foods is very interesting), I'll recommend any Monoprix or even Champion, they have perfectly decent picnic material.

Camembert of the generic "Reflets de France" brand at Champion is the best I've had in ages.

Also, it seems that some parks let you sit on the grass and others don't. Have you seen any good websites that list this or other picnic spots?

Parc André-Citroën in the 15e is one of the few intra-muros where they'll let you sit on the grass. In some small neighborhood parks there is often a "pedestrian" grass spot where people can sit or lie down (for instance at the Carreau du Temple, near République). No sitting on the grass at Jardin des Plantes or Luxembourg Gardens (I haven't looked everywhere so someone could prove me wrong). Large beautiful grass lawn on the esplanade des Invalides, between the hospital/church and the Seine. I think you can sit on the grass in some parts of Parc Montsouris and Buttes-Chaumont. Otherwise it's a good idea to get out of Paris and try the beautiful parks of Saint-Cloud or Sceaux, the perfect picnic spots. Also: parc de La Villette, parc de La Courneuve.

Do supermarkets sell wine or only liquor stores?

Supermarkets do sell wine and even champagne (but rarely chilled).

There is at least one Nicolas (an old chain of wine stores) in every neighborhood. They do have chilled wines and champagnes.

Head for the local boulangeries for baguette, don't bother with supermarkets for that, even luxury ones. Buy fruit from markets.

[John Talbott]

While I'm in Paris next month (for the 1st

Also, it seems that some parks let you sit on the grass and others don't. Have you seen any good websites that list this or other picnic spots?

Parc André-Citroën in the 15e is one of the few intra-muros where they'll let you sit on the grass. In some small neighborhood parks there is often a "pedestrian" grass spot where people can sit or lie down (for instance at the Carreau du Temple, near République). No sitting on the grass at Jardin des Plantes or Luxembourg Gardens (I haven't looked everywhere so someone could prove me wrong). Large beautiful grass lawn on the esplanade des Invalides, between the hospital/church and the Seine. I think you can sit on the grass in some parts of Parc Montsouris and Buttes-Chaumont. Otherwise it's a good idea to get out of Paris and try the beautiful parks of Saint-Cloud or Sceaux, the perfect picnic spots. Also: parc de La Villette, parc de La Courneuve.

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I would add to Pti's comprehensive answer that the two Bois (Boulogne & Vincennes), both reachable by Metro, are also conducive to sitting down. Also, while one cannot sit on the grass at the Luxembourg or Monceau, etc., there are plenty of benches and/or chairs and I frequently see people eating sandwiches there.

[Dave Hatfield]

You've got excellent advice from Pti & John as to where to eat & shop, I'll pitch in with a picnic shopping list.

Highly personal this, so let your own inclinations & taste buds be your guide. Also, when shopping for picnic items at good charcuteries, fromageries & bouloungaries follow the advice of your eyes - if it looks good ; it probably is!

My list:

Meats

- rillet d'oie

- pate de fois gras

- garlic sausage, smoked

Cheeses

- camembert or brie

- cabecou

- salers

- blue de causses

Veg & salads

- cherry tomatoes (probably still just available in early October)

- radishes

- clelery ( you can buy it by the individual stalk, no need to buy a whole head)

- celeris raves

- julliened carrots vinagrette

- potato salad

- an epi (small loaf which I prefer to a baguette for picnicing.)

- Let your eyes & waist line be your guide as to which patesserie

you choose. My favorite happens to be the little lemon tarts.

- White wine - chardonnay from the pays D'oc for cheapness or a nice Mersault for quality without breaking the bank.

- Red wine. Lots of nice inexpensive Corbieres out there or try a good Buzet (usually better than a cheap bordeaux)

That should keep you going for a few picnics.

Consider full lunches as advised previously & early evening picnics in populated places. (trocadero, sacre coeur, lower streaches of the champs, in front of the louvre ......)

You'll save a ton of money & have some great people watching.

[mzimbeck]

Hi Grace,

I wrote about Paris picnics recently on my blog here.

But that was in July before the appearance of mirabelles, Reine Claudes, and other seasonal plums. I'd definately get yourself some of those. And Brie de Meaux is in season now, along with the goats. Tomatoes are blood red, and the basil is packed in fat bundles for one euro at most fruit and veg stands.

Red wine, of course, is always in season.

Enjoy!

[Ptipois]

You've got excellent advice from Pti & John as to where to eat & shop, I'll pitch in with a picnic shopping list.

In order to help Foodmuse acquire some of those delicacies, I'll propose a few translations.

charcuteries, fromageries & bouloungaries

Ahem, boulangeries

- rillet d'oie = rillettes d'oie (reeyet dwah)

- pate de fois gras = just say foie gras (fwah grah)

- garlic sausage, smoked = saucisson à l'ail fumé (smoked) ou non fumé (unsmoked). Unsmoked is really nice, and garlickier (as you'll be reminded all day long).

- cherry tomatoes (probably still just available in early October) = tomates cerises

- radishes = radis roses

- clelery ( you can buy it by the individual stalk, no need to buy a whole head) = céleri branche

- celeris raves = do you really take these on a picnic?

- julliened carrots vinagrette = carottes râpées (carrot rahpey)

- potato salad = often labeled "salade piémontaise" at charcuteries

- an epi (small loaf which I prefer to a baguette for picnicing.)

= "épi" imitates the shape of an ear of wheat. It is not available everywhere but it is indeed the best choice for picnics. If you can't find it, you should rather pick a few ficelles (thin baguette) than a baguette.

- My favorite happens to be the little lemon tarts. = tartes au citron. When they're good, they're really good.

- Red wine. Lots of nice inexpensive Corbieres out there or try a good Buzet (usually better than a cheap bordeaux) = always better than a cheap bordeaux.

[Dave Hatfield]

You've got excellent advice from Pti & John as to where to eat & shop, I'll pitch in with a picnic shopping list.

In order to help Foodmuse acquire some of those delicacies, I'll propose a few translations.

charcuteries, fromageries & bouloungaries

Ahem, boulangeries

- rillet d'oie = rillettes d'oie (reeyet dwah)

- pate de fois gras = just say foie gras (fwah grah)

- garlic sausage, smoked = saucisson à l'ail fumé (smoked) ou non fumé (unsmoked). Unsmoked is really nice, and garlickier (as you'll be reminded all day long).

- cherry tomatoes (probably still just available in early October) = tomates cerises

- radishes = radis roses

- clelery ( you can buy it by the individual stalk, no need to buy a whole head) = céleri branche

- celeris raves = do you really take these on a picnic?

- julliened carrots vinagrette = carottes râpées (carrot rahpey)

- potato salad = often labeled "salade piémontaise" at charcuteries

- an epi (small loaf which I prefer to a baguette for picnicing.)

= "épi" imitates the shape of an ear of wheat. It is not available everywhere but it is indeed the best choice for picnics. If you can't find it, you should rather pick a few ficelles (thin baguette) than a baguette.

- My favorite happens to be the little lemon tarts. = tartes au citron. When they're good, they're really good.

- Red wine. Lots of nice inexpensive Corbieres out there or try a good Buzet (usually better than a cheap bordeaux) = always better than a cheap bordeaux.

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Pip

You know by now that I can't spell in any language. (or type either)

Thanks for the help.

Dave

PS: Foodmuse, Listen to him, not me.

PPS: I'm going to download my new A-Z dictonary of French food to my Word dictonary then figure out a way to get it to spel check my posts where I try to use my pitiful French.

[Ptipois]

I wasn't trying to correct your French, Dave (except when I couldn't help it your spelling of "boulangerie" is the most creative I've ever seen!) I just thought it would be nice to add a few precisions on your already nicely composed list. Don't bother studying all night by candlelight, just stay the way you are.

PS: Foodmuse, Listen to him, not me.

To her, rather. But to you as well!

[bleudauvergne]

When I was in Paris, my future husband and I would meet at various places when he could take a break from his work. We decided to take a picnic in the park at the Buttes de Chaumont. In anticipation of our picnic, I went to some covered market which did not seem too far away from there, I have no idea where is was now, my memories of Paris are very vague and I even mix up the names of parks and museums now. I picked out all kinds of things, and spent nearly the entire weekly food budget - sliced sausages and pickles and sauces of various kinds in little jars. In my mind we were going to have sandwiches in style. I remember being slightly miffed at him because he claimed that the sauces would spoil the sandwich, and would not eat them, and he said I bought too much meat. We still had a lovely picnic.

I agree with everything on Dave's list - just go to any traiteur, and point at what looks good. They will pack all kinds of lovely things into plastic boxes that travel well to any picnic spot you can imagine.

I used to carry a folding pocket knife and a dish towel everywhere along with me in my knapsack. Two very useful things when you want to picnic on a budget but also in style.

[mzimbeck]

We decided to take a picnic in the park at the Buttes de Chaumont.  In anticipation of our picnic, I went to some covered market which did not seem too far away from there, I have no idea where is was now, my memories of Paris are very vague and I even mix up the names of parks and museums now. 

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Hi Lucy (and all),

That's the Place des Fêtes, my Sunday morning local (and one of the short film settings featured in Paris Je T'Aime). And the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is amazing. The leaves are just ever-so-barely starting to turn right now.

Ahh, I love the 19th.

[FoodMuse]

Mzimbeck Loved the blog and that photo of your picnic. A picnic along the Seine is on the itinerary.

Dave, your list is exactly what I was looking for!

Ptipois, the transations are much appreciated. What is rillet d'oi? Google didn't turn any up.

I was amused and thrilled to read that like wines coming and going with the seasons so to does the cheese! What a country.

Here's something I'd like to know. Can you get coffee for takeaway in the morning with a croissant? I guess Starbucks is everwhere, but what about the local spots?

Thanks everyone.

[mzimbeck]

Here's something I'd like to know. Can you get coffee for takeaway in the morning with a croissant? I guess Starbucks is everwhere, but what about the local spots?

Thanks everyone.

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Dear FoodMuse,

You are reading all the right things (ha) and asking all the right questions.

Regarding coffee and portability - sadly, no.

Or not really.

The lady in my work cantine (cafeteria) will put a plastic top over my little espresso sip if I "need" it. As will the places found in the Metro. But it's not the norm to walk down Paris streets while sipping something. That goes double for mobile food.

This, believe it or not, was hard for me to get used to. Gripping an mp3 player in the same position will help you to keep your balance as you adapt to the new reality.

And besides, the coffee here (search this forum) is generally quite bad. The practice of taking it with you would be akin, perhaps, to not finishing your business in the bathroom.

Okay, I'm kidding!

(no I'm not)

[Ptipois]

And besides, the coffee here (search this forum) is generally quite bad.

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And it is, too. So bad that the thought of carrying it to any place other than the closest potted plant has never occurred to me yet.

But little coffee places labeled Segafredo, with two or three aluminum tables on the sidewalk, serve decent coffee. Though I'm afraid they've recently been sort of wiped out by the Starbucks invasion.

[Dave Hatfield]

Thanks for the kind words.

What is rillet d'oi?

rillette d'oie (see Pip, I can spell if I put my mind to it) is a paste made with goose meat & goose fat. When one is making confit there are always small bits of meat that you can cook in their own fat separately from the main pieces. Once cooked these are then shredded (typically with a fork) & then preserved. Rillettes are also made with pork, duck & other meats.

Its easily obtainable & absolutely delicious when spread on bread.

[John Talbott]

Here's something I'd like to know. Can you get coffee for takeaway in the morning with a croissant?

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Regarding coffee and portability - sadly, no.

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Except, since this is France, there are exceptions. Several of the small merchants in my neighborhood, for instance, the newslady, who cannot leave their shops for long, do get a little plastic cup of coffee from the cafe - I've never seen them on a shelf but they exist. But not for you or me. In addition to Segofredo there are also Illy places, for some reason the one that sticks in my mind tho' is in Nice.

But Muse, part of the fun of Paris is sitting in or outside cafes sipping the afternoon away while reading Camus, Proust being passe.

[lalala]

Here's something I'd like to know. Can you get coffee for takeaway in the morning with a croissant? I guess Starbucks is everwhere, but what about the local spots?

Thanks everyone.

←

Dear FoodMuse,

You are reading all the right things (ha) and asking all the right questions.

Regarding coffee and portability - sadly, no.

Or not really.

The lady in my work cantine (cafeteria) will put a plastic top over my little espresso sip if I "need" it. As will the places found in the Metro. But it's not the norm to walk down Paris streets while sipping something. That goes double for mobile food.

This, believe it or not, was hard for me to get used to. Gripping an mp3 player in the same position will help you to keep your balance as you adapt to the new reality.

And besides, the coffee here (search this forum) is generally quite bad. The practice of taking it with you would be akin, perhaps, to not finishing your business in the bathroom.

Okay, I'm kidding!

(no I'm not)

←

What about all those starbucks that are starting to pop up all over Paris? The amount of starbucks detritus that I'm seeing around Odeon and near Opera makes me think that a porter may make coffee at picnics a possibility.

lalala

[Busboy]

And besides, the coffee here (search this forum) is generally quite bad.

←

And it is, too. So bad that the thought of carrying it to any place other than the closest potted plant has never occurred to me yet.

But little coffee places labeled Segafredo, with two or three aluminum tables on the sidewalk, serve decent coffee. Though I'm afraid they've recently been sort of wiped out by the Starbucks invasion.

←

As much as I enjoy a picnic, sitting at a cafe with the IHT and watching Paris go to work seems equally delightful, particualry as I'd rather go through caffeine withdrawl than go to Starbucks in France (though I patronize them here). Also, fewer grasstains on my derrier.

I also have a growing affection for old bar-tabacs, which seem to evoque the more naturalistic genre of black and white French films. Old timers having coffee (or beer) and cigarettes for breakfast and reading l'Equipe, and a look of vague surprise when the guy behind the bar realizes that a tourist has stopped in.

[I_call_the_duck]

What is rillet d'oi?

rillette d'oie (see Pip, I can spell if I put my mind to it) is a paste made with goose meat & goose fat. When one is making confit there are always small bits of meat that you can cook in their own fat separately from the main pieces. Once cooked these are then shredded (typically with a fork) & then preserved. Rillettes are also made with pork, duck & other meats.

Its easily obtainable & absolutely delicious when spread on bread.

←

Bringing back fond memories.

I also have a growing affection for old bar-tabacs, which seem to evoque the more naturalistic genre of black and white French films.  Old timers having coffee (or beer) and cigarettes for breakfast and reading l'Equipe, and a look of vague surprise when the guy behind the bar realizes that a tourist has stopped in.

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Busboy, you forgot about placing bets or buying a lottery ticket at the window!

The bar-tabac was my favorite place to go for breakfast. We stumbled upon one near our hotel, and it immediately became a favorite of ours. I was actually suprised to see an older gentleman drinking a beer at 10am (haven't seen that since my college days). He approached us to ask how we liked our croissant--which I absolutely refused to share with Mr. Duck--and proudly said that he was the baker who supplied the bar with their croissants and baguettes. So I guess 10am for us is like 5pm-ish for him. But this place was so not a tourist destination that I felt as if I were experiencing Paris first-hand.

[FoodMuse]

OK, good to know. Rillette d'oie sound like heaven on a baguette and Coffee is bad.

Luckily the apartment I'm staying in is rented by a girl who is obsessed with the best Italian coffee and has some very complicated gravity defying coffee maker. I use the Boden press with my own freshly ground beans at home. Can't I just have wine with breakfast?

Will have to add Camus to my reading list.

Busboy: What's the IHT?

There will be lots of time sitting in cafes, but I live in NY city and have been craving greenery. I have the constant din of car alarms, siren (at this moment I hear 2 different sirens, and trafic honking(just counted 5 honks in 3 seconds).

Is it too late for me to get a dinner (yes, it has to be dinner) reservation at a Michelin rated place? I could care less about the rating. No matter how much I say we can eat well without it I'm commited to one dinner for my companion. It's probably too late for a reservation for next Thursday Sept. 21st, but what do you guys think? I'm in paris Sept 16- Sept 27th. Maybe:

Jamin

La Tour d'Argent

Le jules Verne

Les Ambassadeurs

L'Espadon

Oh, and I'm not paying.

[John Talbott]

Can't I just have wine with breakfast?

Why not, my facteur (post man) does.

Will have to add Camus to my reading list.

No, Houellebecq will do.

Busboy: What's the IHT?

The International Herald Tribune as in Jean Seberg and Paul Belmondo

There will be lots of time sitting in cafes, but I live in NY city and have been craving greenery. I have the constant din of car alarms, siren (at this moment I hear 2 different sirens, and trafic honking(just counted 5 honks in 3 seconds).

Well I hate to break it to you, but sitting in the fashionable cafes on the Left Bank you'll get your fill of fumes and phones. To get green, go to the cafe/restaurant next to the Rose Garden in the Bois de Boulogne

Is it too late for me to get a dinner (yes, it has to be dinner) reservation at a Michelin rated place? I could care less about the rating. No matter how much I say we can eat well without it I'm commited to one dinner for my companion. It's probably too late for a reservation for next Thursday Sept. 21st, but what do you guys think? I'm in paris Sept 16- Sept 27th. Maybe:

Jamin

La Tour d'Argent

Le jules Verne

Les Ambassadeurs

L'Espadon

Oh, and I'm not paying. 

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As for Jamin, please look up Fresh_a's latest, it's gone.

I suspect you can get into the others but listen to the responses here.

But mostly have fun.