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Wines with food


Florida Jim

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With spicy shrimp and veggies over rice:

2002 Leitz, Riesling Spätlese Rüdesheimer Kaisersteinfels:

10% alcohol, AP #24 079 019 03; flint, pear and cream soda aromas; the same on the lightweight palate adding notes of white grapes and a hint of RS, bright acids, a trifle lean at mid-palate; infinite finish. Very precise juice all about finesse. $25 on release; I’d pay that price again.

And a lovely dinner with friends:

With assorted goat cheeses:

1999 Nigl, Sauvignon Blanc:

Clean, crisp, slightly grassy and loaded with cut; very much of its place and a very long finish. Good wine and worth its $24. I’d pay that again for this wine.

With pasta and fresh chanterelles:

1996 Vogue, Chambolle-Musigny 1er:

Very, very good wine with time in the decanter; crystalline black raspberry fruit with depth, nuance, mineral and solid black raspberry flavors, balanced, and, as it opens, greater integration than first noticed; long finish. A distinct sense of class. Clearly Chambolle and showing very well after three hours in the decanter. About $40 on release; I’d pay that again for this wine (although current pricing for this bottling in any vintage is off the charts).

2001 Ambroise, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains:

Over-oaked, candied, flamboyant and without any earmarks of the vineyard; not even close to the Chevillon wines from the same place. Price unknown but I would not buy it at any price.

With sautéed halibut with chard and root veggies:

1997 Jobard, Meursault Genevrieres:

Not profound but approaching it; deep, clean scents and flavors that are distinctly Meursault, nice complexity, good balance and still, this is slightly closed. Excellent, interest holding wine; price unknown.

2001 Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Callerets:

Woody from the get go and that quality stays with the wine throughout. Simple, second rate chardonnay from anywhere and nothing to get excited about. Price unknown.

After thought:

2001 Ogier, La Rosine:

Clearly of its place, distinctly northern Rhône and every bit a delight to the senses. ‘Wonderful wine with character and less than $20, wholesale. I’d buy it at that price.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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