Fruit Purée in Chocolates

[sote23]

I have used a passion fruit puree instead of fresh juice; I substitute 1/2 cup puree for 1 cup juice.  It also depends on how intense you want the flavor. This substitution gives a good flavor but not too overpowering.

Mark

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i tend to like things balanced. i will try both the juice and puree. see which one i like better.

[sote23]

Jean-Pierre Wybauw's book has a couple of ganache recipes that use purees and the general technique seems to be:

boil the puree and sugar together

bring the cream to a boil

blend the puree and the cream together

pour over chopped chocolate to melt

(if using) add invert sugar

add butter

incorporate thoroughly mixing in as little air as possible

proceed as you normally would

HTH,

:Clay

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I keep hearing about that book. i think i will put it at the top of my list for my next purchase.

[alanamoana]

it is a great book as it discusses a lot of the technical stuff regarding water activity and preservation techniques with chocolate.

of the ingredients in the recipes, you'll need to have invert sugar on hand.

he does really good demos as well. i think he's doing a class at the french pastry school in december(?) this year.

[sote23]

it is a great book as it discusses a lot of the technical stuff regarding water activity and preservation techniques with chocolate.

of the ingredients in the recipes, you'll need to have invert sugar on hand.

he does really good demos as well.  i think he's doing a class at the french pastry school in december(?) this year.

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i need a good technical book. i'm trying not to use invert sugar, changes the flavor of my ganaches completly. do you think invert sugar is absolutly necesarry?

this is a silly question, where is the french pastry school?

[sote23]

Sherry Yard has a recipe for raspberry ganache (this ganache is piped onto a chocolate financier on the cover of her book) that uses only butter and puree -- no cream or eggs. 8oz bittersweet chocolate is melted with 2oz butter. This is cooled to 100F, and then 1/2C strained raspberry puree is stirred in. Use at 70F.

Herme has a passion fruit ganache that calls for juice, but I assume puree could be used. 1/3C cream is brought to boil, and poured over 5 3/4oz Noir Gastronomie (or bittersweet of your choice). After this is incorporated, 1/3C boiling passionfruit juice is incorporated. After this is incorporated, add 3T room temp unsalted butter. Chill until firm enough to use.

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if i were to use the juice, does it specify how much?

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You mean the passionfruit recipe? The recipe calls for 1/3C juice.

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patrick,

i tried the recipe tonight. any idea if it calls for unsweetend juice? the only thing I could find was sweetened juice, that is actually 25% fruit juice. it didn't come out very well.

Edited May 26, 2006 by sote23 (log)

[Patrick S]

Sherry Yard has a recipe for raspberry ganache (this ganache is piped onto a chocolate financier on the cover of her book) that uses only butter and puree -- no cream or eggs. 8oz bittersweet chocolate is melted with 2oz butter. This is cooled to 100F, and then 1/2C strained raspberry puree is stirred in. Use at 70F.

Herme has a passion fruit ganache that calls for juice, but I assume puree could be used. 1/3C cream is brought to boil, and poured over 5 3/4oz Noir Gastronomie (or bittersweet of your choice). After this is incorporated, 1/3C boiling passionfruit juice is incorporated. After this is incorporated, add 3T room temp unsalted butter. Chill until firm enough to use.

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if i were to use the juice, does it specify how much?

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You mean the passionfruit recipe? The recipe calls for 1/3C juice.

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patrick,

i tried the recipe tonight. any idea if it calls for unsweetend juice? the only thing I could find was sweetened juice, that is actually 25% fruit juice. it didn't come out very well.

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The recipe calls for "passion fruit juice" without specifying sweet or unsweet. Was the ganache too thin?

[Sebastian]

invert sugar isn't necessary - it's purpose it to extend shelf life, and it does so by altering the Aw (water activity). water activity is a measure of how much 'free' moisture is present that critters can use to grown on. you need to lower Aw below, oh, about 0.6 or so i guess to prevent most mold growths. invertase does this by breaking down disaccharides into monosaccharides, which taken up more of the water (molar equivalances and all that... basically instead of dissolving 1 sugar in x amount of water now you've got two sugars in that same amount of water, making the water less available for critters). there are many ways of adjusting Aw, but they basically all boil down to increasing the amount of a dissolvable you have in the water. adding more sugar, adding corn syrup, adding invertase all effectively do the same thing. of course, they all have different impacts on flavor and texture too, so keep that in mind. the only other alternative i can think of at this time is to add a chemical preservative, which isn't the way i'd go, but it is an option and many do use it.

there are some processing techniques you can use to help minimize the amount of moulds present, but mould is such a ubiquitous beast that it's nigh impossible to ensure you've gotten them all out.

[alanamoana]

it is a great book as it discusses a lot of the technical stuff regarding water activity and preservation techniques with chocolate.

of the ingredients in the recipes, you'll need to have invert sugar on hand.

he does really good demos as well.  i think he's doing a class at the french pastry school in december(?) this year.

←

i need a good technical book. i'm trying not to use invert sugar, changes the flavor of my ganaches completly. do you think invert sugar is absolutly necesarry?

this is a silly question, where is the french pastry school?

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The French Pastry School is located in Chicago.

I thought invert sugar was inherently sort of flavorless. But I guess adding any kind of mass to your ganache would upset the balance you've achieved with your formula.

[John DePaula]

it is a great book as it discusses a lot of the technical stuff regarding water activity and preservation techniques with chocolate.

of the ingredients in the recipes, you'll need to have invert sugar on hand.

he does really good demos as well.  i think he's doing a class at the french pastry school in december(?) this year.

←

i need a good technical book. i'm trying not to use invert sugar, changes the flavor of my ganaches completly. do you think invert sugar is absolutly necesarry?

←

I thought invert sugar was inherently sort of flavorless.

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Ditto.

[sote23]

Sherry Yard has a recipe for raspberry ganache (this ganache is piped onto a chocolate financier on the cover of her book) that uses only butter and puree -- no cream or eggs. 8oz bittersweet chocolate is melted with 2oz butter. This is cooled to 100F, and then 1/2C strained raspberry puree is stirred in. Use at 70F.

Herme has a passion fruit ganache that calls for juice, but I assume puree could be used. 1/3C cream is brought to boil, and poured over 5 3/4oz Noir Gastronomie (or bittersweet of your choice). After this is incorporated, 1/3C boiling passionfruit juice is incorporated. After this is incorporated, add 3T room temp unsalted butter. Chill until firm enough to use.

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if i were to use the juice, does it specify how much?

←

You mean the passionfruit recipe? The recipe calls for 1/3C juice.

←

patrick,

i tried the recipe tonight. any idea if it calls for unsweetend juice? the only thing I could find was sweetened juice, that is actually 25% fruit juice. it didn't come out very well.

←

The recipe calls for "passion fruit juice" without specifying sweet or unsweet. Was the ganache too thin?

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the thickness of the ganache is fine, it's the taste i don't care for. too sweet and a bit sour. maybe i need another juice, or just go with the boiron puree.

[sote23]

it is a great book as it discusses a lot of the technical stuff regarding water activity and preservation techniques with chocolate.

of the ingredients in the recipes, you'll need to have invert sugar on hand.

he does really good demos as well.  i think he's doing a class at the french pastry school in december(?) this year.

←

i need a good technical book. i'm trying not to use invert sugar, changes the flavor of my ganaches completly. do you think invert sugar is absolutly necesarry?

this is a silly question, where is the french pastry school?

←

The French Pastry School is located in Chicago.

I thought invert sugar was inherently sort of flavorless. But I guess adding any kind of mass to your ganache would upset the balance you've achieved with your formula.

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cool, i will have to look into attending that.

I was under the impression it was flavorless too, but it makes my ganache, much to sweet for my liking.

[Patrick S]

Invert sugar is actually sweeter than regular sucrose, because of the free fructose.

[Desiderio]

What about using invertase, in case you are concerned in extending shel life?

No sweetness added in that case.

[sote23]

Invert sugar is actually sweeter than regular sucrose, because of the free fructose.

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it's difficult,because it needs it for shelf life, but i hate how it changes the flavor.

[sote23]

What about using invertase, in case you are concerned in extending shel life?

No sweetness added in that case.

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i've heard of it, but what is it?

[Sebastian]

It's an enzyme that breaks sugars apart into smaller sugars..

[Desiderio]

What about using invertase, in case you are concerned in extending shel life?

No sweetness added in that case.

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i've heard of it, but what is it?

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Maybe Patrick will get in and give us one of his nice and tecnical explanations).

For now I tell you what I get from Wybau book where he eplains what it is and how it works:

Invertase is an enzyme able to split sucrose into two components.Its mostly used to make special softer centers by inverting the sugar.Most of the inverting takes place withing 7 days ( alchool can slow down the effect).

Use 2 to 5gr per 1000gr.Its best used between 60 and 70 C ( 140/158 F ).

The Hp value must be between 3.8 and 5.2.

Temperatures over 70 C and high acid content destroy the effect of the invertase.

Decreses viscosity.Its inverting effect provides a preserving quality ( lower aw value[ active water ]).Must be kept in cool and dark place .Its use its regulated in some countries.

[Kerry Beal]

Invertase is how you get the liquid centres in the chocolate covered cherries. You start with fondant, add the invertase and once enclosed in chocolate the invertase converts the solid sugar to liquid.

[sote23]

Invertase is how you get the liquid centres in the chocolate covered cherries.  You start with fondant, add the invertase and once enclosed in chocolate the invertase converts the solid sugar to liquid.

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i see, then it wouldn't be good for a ganache then. if you use a smaller amount, will it stay solid?

[Kerry Beal]

Invertase is how you get the liquid centres in the chocolate covered cherries.  You start with fondant, add the invertase and once enclosed in chocolate the invertase converts the solid sugar to liquid.

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i see, then it wouldn't be good for a ganache then. if you use a smaller amount, will it stay solid?

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It would only invert the sugar, so you would still have the other solid ingedients. I guess you might find the centre gets a little softer after coating. I've never tried it in ganache.

[Patrick S]

Invert sugar is actually sweeter than regular sucrose, because of the free fructose.

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it's difficult,because it needs it for shelf life, but i hate how it changes the flavor.

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In that case, can you simply start with a less sweet chocolate so that the end result is less sweet?

[sote23]

it is a great book as it discusses a lot of the technical stuff regarding water activity and preservation techniques with chocolate.

of the ingredients in the recipes, you'll need to have invert sugar on hand.

he does really good demos as well.  i think he's doing a class at the french pastry school in december(?) this year.

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i looked it up, it's the 7-9 of November. I'm seriously thinking of going. anyone else thinking of going to this? It would be great to meet some forum members in person.

[sote23]

Invert sugar is actually sweeter than regular sucrose, because of the free fructose.

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it's difficult,because it needs it for shelf life, but i hate how it changes the flavor.

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In that case, can you simply start with a less sweet chocolate so that the end result is less sweet?

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hmmm, never thought of that. i use a 72% right now, but can use something higher to compensate. very good idea.

[Desiderio]

it is a great book as it discusses a lot of the technical stuff regarding water activity and preservation techniques with chocolate.

of the ingredients in the recipes, you'll need to have invert sugar on hand.

he does really good demos as well.  i think he's doing a class at the french pastry school in december(?) this year.

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i looked it up, it's the 7-9 of November. I'm seriously thinking of going. anyone else thinking of going to this? It would be great to meet some forum members in person.

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I was going , but I have decided that go to visit my family has the priority at this moment , and cant afford both .Maybe next year hopefully , I am looking into a class with Norman Love as well , I sent them an email and told me that they will let me know when the next classes are.Good luck , I am sure you will have a lots of fun

[Kerry Beal]

i looked it up, it's the 7-9 of November. I'm seriously thinking of going. anyone else thinking of going to this? It would be great to meet some forum members in person.

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I believe that David J. may have said he was going.

Edited May 27, 2006 by Kerry Beal (log)