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Wines with food


Florida Jim

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1999 Nigl, Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben:

I am often at a loss for specific adjectives with veltliner; suffice it to say that this is viscous without being cloying, broad on the palate and yet still focused, has lots of spicy and mineral tinged complexity but as a part of an integrated whole, and is extremely long in the mouth. ‘Decades left in the cellar and, I suspect, development at a glacial pace – still, drinking it now is a very fulfilling experience and not to be avoided lest one be in one’s early twenties.

And along side pasta with zucchini in cream sauce, out of this world.

2002 Dom. Les Fines Graves (Jacky Janodet), Moulin à Vent:

Slightly closed on the nose and palate but showing dark fruit and spice with chalky tannins, good depth, excellent balance and, with air, layers of scent and flavor. A very good wine now and, I expect, a superb one in a few years.

Fine accompaniment to a grilled tuna with white bean salad and crostini.

Dinner with Tim:

With Roquefort and leek tart:

2000 Huet, Vouvray Demi-Sec Clos du Bourg:

At first, quite closed with a distinct smoky, stony scent; later it develops herb tea aromas and flavors as well as unripe pineapple notes; more sec tendre than demi-sec and not as viscous or intense as expected. But with the dish, it is spectacular in a way that the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. One of the best wine/food pairings I have tasted.

With grilled shrimp on rice with peas, snow peas and mushrooms:

2002 La Chablisienne, Chablis Cuvée LC:

Correct, ripe Chablis that is approachable and accompanies the dish as an equal player; neither outdoing the other. Very nice

With aged Gouda and pistachio nuts:

1999 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco:

This has “younged-up” since release with very primary scents and flavors and a slightly awkward delivery; still fine nebbiolo-ness with good depth and balance. Needs time and better with the cheese than without.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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