Duluth/Ely shopping recs

[kiliki]

I've already volunteered to do much of the cooking on a vacation we will be taking with some of my boyfriend's family at a resort south of Ely in late June. My boyfriend is already warning me that there might not be any good grocery stores (stores that would carry great produce, naturally raised meats, a good selection of cheeses, and as much locally produced items as possible) in Ely, and that it might be better to buy coolers and shop in Duluth, or even Minneapolis, on the way up (we fly to MSP from Seattle). I see that Ely has a couple of specialty food stores, which is nice, but can anyone advise me as to the best place to stock up for this trip? Are there any great groceries in Duluth? I see there is a Whole Foods in Minneapolis-would this be my best bet there, or are there other good high end stores?

Is late June too early to hope for any locally grown produce in farmer's markets or farmstands on the drive up?

I did read some threads about restaurants on the North Shore and elsewhere in the state, but if anyone wanted to recommend any restaurants in Ely or on the drive from MSP I'd love to hear it.

[pansophia]

Here are links to two of the big MSP farmer's markets:

http://www.mplsfarmersmarket.com/

http://www.stpaulfarmersmarket.com/

There's a new farmer's market opening June 10th but it will only be Saturday mornings, all local and organic foods on the riverfront in the Mill District of Minneapolis. No website yet.

I'm also a big fan of Surdyk's, it's a liquor store and deli with an amazing cheese selection. http://www.surdyks.com

By late-June I think you should be seeing some local stands on the way up north. Granted, I never really paid attention to things like that until recently but also watch for signs to little out of the way shops or antique places. Near my family's cottage, a lot of folks have mediocre antique stores in their garage, but sometimes also sell great produce, syrup, etc.

It's a beatuful time to be up north!

[srhcb]

I'd pick up my produce in Mpls/St Paul. Here in Northern MN we often don't even get the garden planted until Memorial Day!

If you feel like dining out, visit Bernard Herrmann's Mantel House in Ely. He even caters French cusine for wilderness outings.

There's a new French restaurant just north of Dultuth that I can't remember the name of.

I've posted about both these places somewhere on eGullet previously, but I can't find them now. Google is practically useless now that everybody and their brother knows about key word searches, even when I know what I'm looking for.

SB (bring warm clothes)

[Smithy]

There are some great grocery stores in Duluth. The Farmers' Market will be open, but I doubt there will be much in the way of produce yet - possibly a few herbs. Tomatoes will certainly not be available then.

The Whole Foods Coop has expanded and moved to its new location, just east of the downtown area. They specialize in organic produce, bulk products (coffee, flour, beans, herbs and spices) as well as packaged products. They now also carry a fair selection of meats: grass-fed beef and lamb, free-range chicken. Fish, I think. I have admired the meats but not been willing to spend the money on them yet, but I know they're certified as to how they were grown and handled. Whole Foods Coop also has a good deli section. They're at 610 E. 4th Street (near the intersection of 4th Street and Central Entrance - or do they call it 6th Ave. E there?). Here's their web site.

Cub Foods, up on the hill on Central Entrance, has a good cheese section and an excellent produce section. They're my first choice for produce because of the variety and quality, but if I stuck to organic produce my selection would be more limited. Their selection of "ethnic" foods (they call it the World Market) is expanding too; no longer does "ethnic" necessarily imply Mexican or Chinese in this town. They have a steadily-expanding organic produce section but it isn't their main emphasis as at Whole Foods Coop. They're at 615 W. Central Entrance. If you wanted to do some advance scouting you could call at (218) 727-0272. I am particularly fond of their "take and bake" breads, too. The Italian Peasant loaf makes a frequent appearance around our house.

Festival Foods is the newcomer to the grocery store world up here. They're a large, good-quality grocery store with good prices and selection. Having said that, I'll also say that they're off the beaten path for you no matter which way you go to Ely, and I don't think they can do anything for you that Whole Foods Coop or Cub can't do. They're at 1316 W. Arrowhead Road, and good luck finding them if you're wandering without a guide.

Northern Waters Smokehaus is a genuine cheese place with real raw milk cheeses and an amazing assortment of imported cheeses, given their size. They're on the waterfront, near the Lift Bridge in the Dewitt-Seitz Building. They'll let you taste samples. They also carry cured meats, cultured butters and some other odds and ends, and an excellent selection of smoked fish. For a bit more information about them you can check out my foodblog from last summer, or visit their website here.

The Blue Heron Trading Company is the local kitchen and gourmet store, and it's located in the same building as Northern Waters. I talk about it in the foodblog also. Between Northern Waters and the Blue Heron, I do pretty well in the gourmet food supply department. Mind you, I still go crazy in major metropolitan areas, because Duluth just can't support the variety of the larger urban areas, but we do all right.

My foodblog link takes you to the start of a post that includes Northern Waters Smokehaus and the Blue Heron Trading Company. Those are down toward the bottom of that particular post. Farther up in the post is a discussion about Russ Kendall's Smokehouse, in Knife River. They also sell fine smoked fish, and have a selection of cheeses. Their cheese selection isn't as good, but I'd say their fish selection is broader in terms of variety of fish available.

If I get to Ely in the next month or so I'll do some scouting around for you, but the assessment of their stores might be about right.

Feel free to ask more questions, or if you think it's appropriate you can PM me instead.

Edited March 14, 2006 by Smithy (log)

[kiliki]

Thank you SO much-That was incredibly helpful! Those places sound great and exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for the links, too. Hopefully the fishing will be good so that we can have some walleye on the table as well.

Speaking of which, if Minnesotans reading this want to share their favorite way to cook walleye, I'd love to hear it. The only way any of my boyfriend's family know how to make the fish they love so much is...fried. I did it muniere style once and it was quite nice. Maybe I should start a separate thread but I thought I'd throw this out there now.

Edited March 14, 2006 by kiliki (log)

[Smithy]

Good luck with the fishing!

The last time I cooked walleye, I dipped the filets in an egg batter, then in chopped pecans with some seasonings, then sauteed it. The pan juices were turned into a sauce that went over the whole thing, with the help of some wine and lemon juice to deglaze. The filet and sauce went onto a bed of greens, with vinaigrette drizzled over it, and I was in heaven. I don't know that I'd call this a "favorite" recipe - first because I've only done it once, and second because I was feeling my way as I went, but I'd do it again. It's the last thing I cooked in the above-mentioned foodblog, if you want more information.

I'm glad the links look helpful. I really am impressed with the way the food scene has grown in Duluth. Where south of Ely will you be staying? Someplace on Birch Lake?

Would a restaurant in Gilbert be considered "on the way" enough for you? If so, I recommend The Whistling Bird. It's a Jamaican restaurant, of all things, on the main street of Gilbert, and it's so popular that reservations are strongly advised. The food is excellent. Gilbert isn't necessarily on your way, but it depends on the route you intend to take.

[kiliki]

Birch Lake, exactly. River Point Resort. That recipe sounds great-I'll definitely try something like that. Lol, I'll have to look at a map to see where Gilbert is, to see if it's out of the way or not-I've never been to the area. I am willing to go WAY out of my way for food, and maybe will try to recruit some of my boyfriend's family for this too, though much of the family is fishing obsessed and I won't be able to pry them away from the lake for anything. From other threads it looked like there were some good stops along the North Shore, on the drive up, too.

[Smithy]

There are other good stops along the North Shore, and if you drive up along that way, don't let anyone fool you into going to Betty's Pies for pie. It's not bad, but I think it's very overrated, probably living on an old reputation from when it was the only place along that stretch. 4 or 5 miles farther up the shore in Castle Danger you'll find the Rustic Inn. They make the best pies, bar none. But unless you're taking the scenic route (or your boyfriend's family lives on the North Shore) I doubt you'll be going that far.

I should add a warning about the fish. It's hard to beat "shore lunch", properly done, with the fish and potatoes and onions fried just right. It's also a tradition up in these parts. Unless there's so much fish that people are looking for a change, you might want to go lightly on the idea of different recipes. It's like, well, messing with Thanksgiving traditions. They might decide you're a Heathen and forbid your boyfriend to marry you.

[sparrowgrass]

Zup's Grocery, on Main Street in Ely, doesn't have much of a selection, but it sure smells good. They smoke their own meat and fish, so be sure to pick up some of that.

Don't buy beer in the grocery store--it is 3.2.

Farm stands on the way up probably will have strawberries, maybe some late asparagus.

Take lots of skeeter repellent--you are going at prime time.

Be sure to visit the Molter Museum, the little museum at Vermillion Community College, and the International Wolf Center.

And do NOT miss the Soudan Underground Iron Mine. And when you are there, tell them Debra from Missouri sent you.

I lived in Ely and worked at the park for 5 years--please feel free to PM me with any questions.

[srhcb]

Here's info about Chef Bernard Herrmann that I alluded to previously:

http://www.piragis.com/guided/gourmetcanoetripitinerary.html

[srhcb]

For smoked fish I've always liked Russ Kendall's on the North Shore:

RUSS KENDALL'S SMOKED FISH HOUSE

OPEN ALL YEAR. Fresh and smoked fish.“We Smoke Our Own” Ciscoes, lake trout, white fish, herring, and wild Alaskan silver and king salmon. Sugar cured trout and salmon our speciality. “Eat ‘em here or take ‘em along.” Homemade beef jerky and salmon spread. Wild rice, cheese, maple syrup, souvenirs and gifts. Tavern. 149 Scenic Hwy, Box 146, Knife River, MN 55609. Phone 218-834-5995.

SB (especially the salmon)

[srhcb]

And here's a story about the new restaurant on the North Shore:

http://www.duluthsuperior.com/mld/duluthsu...ne/13710768.htm

SB (knows the chef's Aunt Pat)

[snowangel]

Thanks, Steve, for the link to the article. I passed by this place on my way to and fro Blue Fin Bay last Thanksgiving, and wondered.

Nancy is spot on about the markets in Duluth, and thanks for mentioning Russ Kendall's! If you are heading north out of Duluth to Highway 1, there's no reason not to take the scenic highway, and every reason to stop at Kendall's.

Should you choose to purchase produce and any groceries in the Twin Cities, the place to go would be The Wedge.

And, yes, to what Nancy said about fish. Make sure you aren't going to mess with tradition and make people uncomfortable if you don't just flat fry the fish. My FIL would be horrified if I did anything with walleye other than dip in egg and crushed saltines and fry (although I'm much more adventurous when I'm with my hubby and kids). Crappies take very well to a deep fry) while whole, accompanied by a spicy sauce, which masks the muddy flavor they have.

[srhcb]

And, yes, to what Nancy said about fish.  Make sure you aren't going to mess with tradition and make people uncomfortable if you don't just flat fry the fish.  My FIL would be horrified if I did anything with walleye other than dip in egg and crushed saltines and fry (although I'm much more adventurous when I'm with my hubby and kids).  Crappies take very well to a deep fry) while whole, accompanied by a spicy sauce, which masks the muddy flavor they have.

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I'll probably lose my lake creds for saying this, but I'd much prefer a meal of crispy fried panfish over one of walleye!

Of course, I don't have to catch and clean them.

SB (hasn't fished in many years)

[kiliki]

4 or 5 miles farther up the shore in Castle Danger you'll find the Rustic Inn. They make the best pies, bar none. But unless you're taking the scenic route (or your boyfriend's family lives on the North Shore) I doubt you'll be going that far.

I have already told the mr. that we will be taking the scenic North Shore drive both for the scenery and for the pie at Rustic Inn! That was on the top of my list after reading older threads, doing internet searches and seeing the cream pie list on their website. A "shore lunch" sounds good! Russ Kendall's sounds great, too. Thanks for all the latest posts.

That's good advice about not messing with tradition, and I had thought about that. Absolutely I will not demand everyone eat my pecan crusted walleye, but the mr. thinks his family will be surprised and happy to see that there is some other way to eat it (none of them are cooks-even his mom hates to cook). Probably his mom will fry some and I'll do something else and everyone can choose what they'd like (there will be 10 or 11 or us). Or I'll run any new ideas by people first.

Sparrowgrass, thanks for all the sightseeing tips (I did get a hiking book for the area-I like to fish, but not all day everyday). I will bring repellent as I've heard all about the skeeters AND the black flies.

Edited March 15, 2006 by kiliki (log)

[snowangel]

I will bring repellent as I've heard all about the skeeters AND the black flies.

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You want Ultrathon. Trust me.

A couple more things. It's fun to pull over on the side of the highway at the Frency River and hang over the railing -- it's a trout hatchery, and if you're lucky, you'll see them swimming upstream.

For a meal between the Cities and Duluth, get off at the Barnum exit. There's a great restaurant (diner type food) on the west side of the highway. Ask for a window booth and you'll have a great view of the lake across the freeway. We stopped there on our way home from the North Shore at Xmas and watched people ice fishing. The burgers, sandwiches and hot meat loaf sandwich were great, and the waitresses were fab.

[Brad Ballinger]

Zup's Grocery, on Main Street in Ely, doesn't have much of a selection, but it sure smells good.  They smoke their own meat and fish, so be sure to pick up some of that.

Don't buy beer in the grocery store--it is 3.2.

Farm stands on the way up probably will have strawberries, maybe some late asparagus.

Take lots of skeeter repellent--you are going at prime time. 

Be sure to visit the Molter Museum, the little museum at Vermillion Community College, and the International Wolf Center.

And do NOT miss the Soudan Underground Iron Mine.  And when you are there, tell them Debra from Missouri sent you.

I lived in Ely and worked at the park for 5 years--please feel free to PM me with any questions.

←

Yes to the smoked meats and fish at Zup's. Yes to the International Wolf Center. Yes to the Soudan Underground Mine. Also, be sure to visit the cabin of the Root Beer Lady.

If you are driving to Ely from the Twin Cities, Duluth is not on the direct route. If you choose to go through Duluth, however, you have a beautiful drive along the north shore (pull over at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, Gooseberry Falls State Park, and Temperance River State Park. North of all those, you can take Highway 1 to Ely. Chocolate Moose in Ely is a fun restaurant -- my cousin used to manage it.

[Smithy]

Yes to most of the recommendations above, by Brad and Sparrowgrass. I haven't been to the Root Beer Lady's cabin so I can't swear by it, but I'd trust the recommendation. The Tower-Soudan mine and the Wolf Center are fascinating.

A small correction: Brad, Temperance River State Park is farther north than Highway 1. You might be thinking of Tettagouche State Park, which is on the Baptism River. (Temperance, Baptism, what's the difference? ) Tettagouche's entrance is at the junction of Hwy 1 and Hwy 61. But you're right on both counts: that route is about the longest way to get to Ely (more so than just going to Duluth and up, or going farther to Two Harbors and up) - and it's very pretty.

[MSPD]

If it's not too late....make sure to pick up this month's edition of "Minneapolis St. Paul Magazine" that just came out. The cover article is about roadtripping from the SE corner of MN all the way to Grand Portage on the North Shore (skipping the MSP area). It is a perfect resource (less for groceries, more for food) for this post.

[kiliki]

Thanks, I'll see if I can order a copy online (I doubt it's available on my local newsstand). I do know that going via the North Shore is not the fastest way but I am more interested in scenery and pie than speed. All of those parks are mentioned in my hiking book-I might take a day and go back and hike/see the sights of the North Shore (a hike up Eagle Mountain sounds especially nice).

[Smithy]

*bump* Hey, I've found another walleye recipe for you, and it might not seem to chi-chi for your impending visit!

The Duluth News-Tribune published an article yesterday about a local chef who cooks with wild rice. One of the featured recipes is for Wild Rice Crusted Walleye, and it sounds pretty good. This link to the recipes should be good for about a week. After that you'd have to be a subscriber to get into the archives. If you don't get this in time, PM me and I'll send you the recipe if I still have it.

You'll have ample opportunity to buy wild rice on your drive north. I like the guy in Two Harbors (Buddy is this gentle soul who always closes the sale with "have a rice day") but there are other places too.

[kiliki]

That walleye sounds good, and not so different that folks would be apprehensive about it. How cool there is a place along the way to buy local wild rice! I will definitely do that. I'd never actually cooked with wild rice, but I just made Pam R's recipe for wild rice and mushroom latkes, and they were quite good.

The salmon-walleye recipe is fitting as I'm from Seattle and they are all from MN, though mixing the two fish and adding mayo sounds a bit...odd.

[srhcb]

How cool there is a place along the way to buy local wild rice!

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When you buy wild rice try and avoid the small black shiny grains you see used in packaged foods and fancy restaurants. It's actually burnt, takes forever to cook, and really doesn't taste like much. It's used mainly for "looks".

The wild rice the natives prefer, (and keep for their own use), is larger and grayish green in color. It will cook up in about 30 minutes and some of the grains will curl and explode.

Even most of the hand harvested wild rice crop is commercially parched (roasted). Less than 2% of the crop is hand parched in the traditional manner. This is what you want, if you can find it.

SB (has a friend who rices every year)

[Smithy]

How cool there is a place along the way to buy local wild rice!

←

When you buy wild rice try and avoid the small black shiny grains you see used in packaged foods and fancy restaurants. It's actually burnt, takes forever to cook, and really doesn't taste like much. It's used mainly for "looks".

The wild rice the natives prefer, (and keep for their own use), is larger and grayish green in color. It will cook up in about 30 minutes and some of the grains will curl and explode.

Even most of the hand harvested wild rice crop is commercially parched (roasted). Less than 2% of the crop is hand parched in the traditional manner. This is what you want, if you can find it.

SB (has a friend who rices every year)

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Where would you get the hand parched rice? Buddy carries wild wild rice (as well as cultivated) but I think it's all commercially parched.

[srhcb]

Where would you get the hand parched rice?  Buddy carries wild wild rice (as well as cultivated) but I think it's all commercially parched.

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You just about have to know somebody who does it. The extra labor involved makes selling it for what it should be worth prohibitive so those who have thier harvest hand parched usually reserve it for themselves, friends and family. The person who does the parching usually takes their fee in kind, and might sell some. You'd have to ask around.

In the old days, (25-30 years ago), many Indian families derived a significant portion of their yearly income from ricing. The black, paddy raised "wild rice" from California, and consumers who don't know any better, have kept the price so low that today it's mostly done just a hobby.

My friend Big Lou is an Ojibway band member, and although he doesn't live on the Reservation he is entitled to hunting, fishing and ricing rights. I get my rice from him.

SB (I ply him with free coffee and donuts all year in exchange)

PS: Some of the wild rice commercially processed here in MN and Canada, is not too bad. Just avoid the real small, black stuff.

Edited April 13, 2006 by srhcb (log)