Top new restaurants in Paris?

[zoeadler]

Hi all,

I've decided to bring a little of what I call "NY" fooding to Paris. No no, that sounds bad. But let me explain. In New York there is this wonderful buzz everytime a new restaurant opens - which happens many times a week. Everyone rushes in to taste and to make their judgement about whether or not they like it, etc.

As a Parisienne for over 3 years, I know we work differently here in Paris. And I'm not trying to be "an american in Paris". There is more "establishment", more "tradition", all of which I love. That's one side of the restaurant culture here. However, I am convinced that this sort of energy about new restaurants can be found in Paris, but it's not as easy as opening Time Out or the Times that we might do in NY. It takes work. Planning. KNOWLEDGE. That's where I would LOVE some help.

So I post this topic to the list. New restaurants in Paris. Open less than 6 months say. Even better if open less than 3. Which ones are people buzzing about? It would be great if price ranges stayed around 50-60 a person, but let's not be too strict about pricing. If there are expensive new ones to try, let's list them. New young chefs to watch? New types of cuisine? Etc. I will be more than happy to post my thoughts after trying them, as I am sure my friends will as well.

A good example I would give, which John Talbott I think would agree with, is a sort of place like Temps au Temps. Little, intime, and when it opened reviews were amazing and we all rushed there. Sort of places like that.

Well, let the games begin. I can't wait to hear some comments!

Thanks for the help,

Zoe

[Blair P. Houghton]

If it was me, I'd go the other way.

The oldest restaurant in Paris

No way am I missing the chance to nosh in Ben Franklin's old haunt.

[John Talbott]

Hi all,

I've decided to bring a little of what I call "NY" fooding to Paris. No no, that sounds bad. But let me explain. In New York there is this wonderful buzz everytime a new restaurant opens - which happens many times a week. Everyone rushes in to taste and to make their judgement about whether or not they like it, etc.

As a Parisienne for over 3 years, I know we work differently here in Paris. And I'm not trying to be "an american in Paris". There is more "establishment", more "tradition", all of which I love. That's one side of the restaurant culture here. However, I am convinced that this sort of energy about new restaurants can be found in Paris, but it's not as easy as opening Time Out or the Times that we might do in NY. It takes work. Planning. KNOWLEDGE. That's where I would LOVE some help.

So I post this topic to the list. New restaurants in Paris. Open less than 6 months say. Even better if open less than 3. Which ones are people buzzing about? It would be great if price ranges stayed around 50-60 a person, but let's not be too strict about pricing. If there are expensive new ones to try, let's list them. New young chefs to watch? New types of cuisine? Etc. I will be more than happy to post my thoughts after trying them, as I am sure my friends will as well.

A good example I would give, which John Talbott I think would agree with, is a sort of place like Temps au Temps. Little, intime, and when it opened reviews were amazing and we all rushed there. Sort of places like that.

Well, let the games begin. I can't wait to hear some comments!

Thanks for the help,

Zoe

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As an ancien New Yorker ancien (and I use that is both senses of the word, ancien before and after the noun) I think there are a few differences here. Of course, as opposed to the mosquito-infested island on the Hudson, we have five a week open here versus a few there, but who's competitive? First, if whoever the NYTimes critic is, writes up a place positively, one will not get in for years. Here; Rubin gives it three hearts, you call the next day, no problem. Two, buzz here is less intense than NYC. There, everybody who is anybody has friends who call BEFORE it's been reviewed, and if you haven't been before the NYT, faggedaboudit. Three, I have it from trustworthy sources that PR and connections work here, just look at Helene Darroze. Four, places that are terrific here - examples in the last year - Le Baratin, La Cerisaie, Le Pouilly-Reuilly have chugged along for quite a while until one of the big three writes them/it up and suddenly everyone else piles on. Now if you're Ducasse, Gagnaire, Westerman, etc, you don't need the publicity machine for places like Aux Lyonnais, Gaya, Drouant etc. And just look at the threads for Yves Camdeborde and Jamin in the past two years, will he, won't he, when will he, maybe not, oh gosh! I'm as guilty as anyone. Fresh_a says "x" I go by ASAP. Simon says "y" I check it out. I hear a rumor from "z" that the de la Garde folks are relocating, I somehow find myself in the posh part of the 18th.

But to be serious. I take it you're asking for places we've been to and not written up and hidden from the world. It's no longer possible with the Internet and eGullet. Remember, these guys have motos and they walk (get a Californian to do that) and everyone is a flanneur.

Not to tease, but two places I've been to this week - at lunch mind you - both newly chef'd or redecorated, turned people away who walked in.

So Zoe, back to the point, little, intime places open 3 months with great reviews that I love - Ripaille, Ferrandaise, Maxan.

[jackal10]

Talking of Le Procope, and out of historic and literary interest, does anyone know when Les Freres Provencaux, a famous restaurant of the last century closed, and what became of the building?

[John Talbott]

Talking of Le Procope, and  out of historic and literary interest, does anyone know when Les Freres Provencaux, a famous restaurant of the last century closed, and what became of the building?

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Jackal, a bit more info, address, quartier, years, etc?

[zoeadler]

John, thanks for the tips. Will add those to the "list". Also someone I think from egullet send me via email a scan of Gogo which I think you use now in your summary, yes? Any idea where to buy the hard copy? And thanks to the person who emailed me.

Any other newish restaurants would be welcome. Are there any new chefs to watch - ones that came from the big kitchens and are now on their own? I guess I'm really looking for what's buzzing in Paris besides from the Michelin stars.

thanks again

zoe

[John Talbott]

someone I think from egullet send me via email a scan of Gogo which I think you use now in your summary, yes? Any idea where to buy the hard copy?

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Yes and it's free and I got a copy I think at Galignani or WH Smith on the Rue de Rivoli. But they say you can subscribe for the cost of postage only by going to gogoparis.com/subscribe

Edited by John Talbott to correct spelling of bookstore Galignani.

Edited February 6, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[Felice]

The places that have had the most buzz in the last few months seem to be: Le Comptoir, for sure, Sendersens, Gaya, Benoit and Transversal. And people are starting to talk about Drouant since Antoine Westerman has taken over.

I’m going to Transversal this Saturday night for dinner and will post about it shortly after.

[John Talbott]

Are there any new chefs to watch - ones that came from the big kitchens and are now on their own?

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The closest that meets your description in the past 3 months that I can come up with is Carte Blanche in the 9th where the chef is from Gagnaire but it's less like Gagnaire than Ledeuil - Ze Kitchen Galerie. I've only been twice since it opened in the late Fall but have been very impressed both times.

[Busboy]

Talking of Le Procope, and  out of historic and literary interest, does anyone know when Les Freres Provencaux, a famous restaurant of the last century closed, and what became of the building?

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Jackal, a bit more info, address, quartier, years, etc?

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I believe it was founded just after the Revolution -- anyway, that's where the book in which I read about Les Freres Provenceaux picks up -- but it continued for many years, under succeeding generations.

"This celebrated establishment was situated near the Beaujolais Gallery of the Palais-Royal, close to the narrow street leading to the Rue Vivienne, and it had been the rendezvous of epicures, either residents of Paris or birds of passage, since the day it was opened."

Despite the name, they apparently did not specialize in provencal cuisine, but offered the haute cusine of the day, btw.

A bit more here.

[Bux]

If it was me, I'd go the other way.

The oldest restaurant in Paris

No way am I missing the chance to nosh in Ben Franklin's old haunt.

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History is perhaps best revisited in books. Perhaps one can dine with Franklin, or perhaps one of his contemporaries in a book. A meal is far to precious to waste on bad food. For what it's worth, I've eaten in la Procope twice. Once as a student because the place was recommneded as good value to someone on a budget, and then again with my wife to revisit haunts I knew before we met. The second visit was disappointing, although our budget in those days was not much larger than a student's. I haven't heard that the food merits a visit lately.

In addition to places frequented by Franklin, we've seen places recommended by Liebling and Root deteriorate to the point where they are also no longer reference meals. Paris will always have history, but as Paris is also a moveable feast, it's best to go to where the feast has moved.

[zoeadler]

Thanks john and felice. I feel like I'm playing a bit of catch up here - I should have already tried these places! found a great article in the times that talk about Le Comptoir, Benoit and Gaya. Going to try and go to each one! Here's the article.

Zoe

http://travel2.nytimes.com/2006/01/22/trav...873edf5&ei=5070

[Felice]

We talked about Transversal HERE

[Felice]

Zoe,

Here's one more you might want to add to your list:

Kai

18, rue du Louvre.

I've heard and read very good things about it--three hearts in Figaroscope--but haven't been yet.

[OAKGLEN]

Kai Mayfair is one of our favorite London restaurants; awesome soft shell crab. Could this be the same ownership? I hope so!

[fresh_a]

Nothing to do with the London restaurant...

[zoeadler]

has anyone tried the following places? they were reviewed in an "easy jet" article I received from one of the posters...they sound interesting but wonder if anyone has insider knowledge :-)

- Dip (Boulevard St. Michel)

- Dominique Bouchet (8eme)

- Calus (8eme)

Zoe

[John Talbott]

has anyone tried the following places? they were reviewed in an "easy jet" article I received from one of the posters...they sound interesting but wonder if anyone has insider knowledge :-)

- Dip (Boulevard St. Michel)

- Dominique Bouchet (8eme)

- Calus (8eme)

Zoe

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- Dip (Boulevard St. Michel) Never heard of it; sure that's it, not Lipp; tourist central??

- Dominique Bouchet (8eme) First rate, one of the revelations of the year.

- Caius (8eme) Deceptive; front says they have this huge variety of interesting dishes, in fact they have the usual old tired stuff.

[zoeadler]

thanks john for the info

it's dip...but just researched it - it's only a small indian restaurant, not sure what it was doing in the article. says it looks like a typical indian but it's super authentic. might be worth it to try since it's hard to find a good indian that's not too oily. address is 5 boulevard st. marcel - website is www.restaurant-indien.com

I also read about Entrédejeu - might be fun for a group. Any thoughts?

[John Talbott]

thanks john for the info

it's dip...but just researched it - it's only a small indian restaurant, not sure what it was doing in the article. says it looks like a typical indian but it's super authentic. might be worth it to try since it's hard to find a good indian that's not too oily. address is 5 boulevard st. marcel - website is www.restaurant-indien.com

I also read about Entrédejeu - might be fun for a group. Any thoughts?

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Entredgeu in the 17th?

I liked Philippe Tredgeu much better at Chez Casimir, sorry, but member Pim thinks it’s super and I respect her opinion.

[Ptipois]

That's one side of the restaurant culture here. However, I am convinced that this sort of energy about new restaurants can be found in Paris, but it's not as easy as opening Time Out or the Times that we might do in NY. It takes work. Planning. KNOWLEDGE.

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It is just as easy as opening Time Out or The Times. You may open Zurban or Le Figaroscope instead. Paris is a capital and not that different from others.

Edited February 8, 2006 by Ptipois (log)

[zoeadler]

ooooo. so disagree with that. I don't think it's as easy as NYC. in NYC you have a buzz factor that everyone - not just the foodies - know when a new place opens up. you have to work harder here and really do research. I subscribed to Zurban for a while but find that they don't really "review" a place, or have a strong opinion. plsu I don't always find interest in the restaurants they choose. maybe figaroscope is better with Simon as a reviewer, actually I'm sure it is. but, it comes down to reading it religiously which I don't, but am starting to do, as one poster said "she needs to do her homework" which I'm starting to do. I probably shouldn't glorify NYC as easier, perhaps it's also that I have more fooding contacts there...it's just that thus far I've found Paris a different type of restaurant city.

I think it would be an interesting idea for someone in the group to do a paris fooding 101 - who are the big chefs, the big restaurants (ie the michelin starred) and then who are their disciples and the other young ones to watch. just an idea. I'm sure the guidebooks have done this sort of thing, but would be nice to have it on egulllet.

anyhoo, i'll post as I try the restaurants recommended and thanks for the advice so far. ps - john I discovered pim's reviews as well which I find very very helpful!

[Felice]

I tend to agree with Pitipois, if you read the Paris weeklies you’ll be informed. And there’s normally talk on egullet about the newest places. Perhaps it’s not like NY where everyone rushes out to try the latest place as soon as it’s written up, but I prefer it that way. Here it takes a little longer for most people to hear about a place, but I think that's a good thing. I had no problem getting dinner reservations at Le Comptoir when it first opened, now you have to wait months for a reservation.

Also, I would give Zurban another chance. It’s definitely one of my favourites and I read it every week without fail. I even tend to keep certain issues so I can go back and look up places later or will at least save the food reviews of places I really want to try. I almost always read the Figaroscope as well, but sometimes times forget to buy it on Wed. I also try to pick up A Nous Paris and keep my eyes open for other publications. The fooding website is another good place to look. Each paper tends to have its own audience but a place that is really great gets written up in them all at some point.

I love your idea of starting a thread of most talked about new restaurants in Paris and will definitely try to add places of interest.