Two nights in Philly, where am I eating?

[iharrison]

I'm headed to Philly for a weekend in late Feb and need restaurant advice.

Two breakfasts, one lunch, two dinners ... where should I absolutely eat? From high end to casual, throw every suggestion my way please!

Thanks.

[Furious Flav-or]

I'm headed to Philly for a weekend in late Feb and need restaurant advice.

Two breakfasts, one lunch, two dinners ... where should I absolutely eat? From high end to casual, throw every suggestion my way please!

Thanks.

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That's like going out in the North Woods and picking a favorite star out on a clear night.

Whaddaya like? Got much time for that lunch to travel to the extreme ends of town? Concerned by the idea of moderately dangerous dining?

[iharrison]

I'm headed to Philly for a weekend in late Feb and need restaurant advice.

Two breakfasts, one lunch, two dinners ... where should I absolutely eat? From high end to casual, throw every suggestion my way please!

Thanks.

←

That's like going out in the North Woods and picking a favorite star out on a clear night.

Whaddaya like? Got much time for that lunch to travel to the extreme ends of town? Concerned by the idea of moderately dangerous dining?

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Anything except pretentious high end crap ... I'm from Montreal so I have high standards ;-) ... gimme hidden gems, places the locals know and love but out-of-towners not in the know rarely venture to.

I don't mind dishing out mucho dinero if it's absolutely worth the money mind you ...

Edited January 16, 2006 by iharrison (log)

[R Washburn]

Breakfast: LaCroix, Down Home Diner

Lunch: Le Bec-Fin

Dinner: Bar at Brasserie Perrier, Tony Luke's

[Furious Flav-or]

Breakfast: LaCroix, Down Home Diner

Lunch: Le Bec-Fin

Dinner: Bar at Brasserie Perrier, Tony Luke's

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"Hello? Pretense Patrol? I'd like to report a crime …"

There are two decent Belgian spots in town, Monk's (16th and Spruce) and Cuvée Notre Dame (17th and Green). Cuvée does really, really decent moules et frites and waterzooie. Monk's also makes great burgers. For wings, in town, so to speak, try Moriarty's at 1116 Walnut; they're good, and huge. Tony Luke's on Oregon Ave. (http://tinyurl.com/a9pwv) is a great stand-up joint for sandwiches and has negative pretense.

[iharrison]

Awesome, awesome. This is gold! Appreciate it!

[R Washburn]

Breakfast: LaCroix, Down Home Diner

Lunch: Le Bec-Fin

Dinner: Bar at Brasserie Perrier, Tony Luke's

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"Hello? Pretense Patrol? I'd like to report a crime …"

Georges Perrier's restaurants are certainly worth the money. Definitely not pretentious, and on my short list of Philadelphia restaurants "worth a trip".

I would definitely try to make it to Sarcone's for a Hoagie and visit "La Colombe" for the best coffee in North America.

[rlibkind]

There are two decent Belgian spots in town, Monk's (16th and Spruce) and Cuvée Notre Dame (17th and Green). Cuvée does really, really decent moules et frites and waterzooie. Monk's also makes great burgers.

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How long has it been since you dined in town, Furious? Cuvee Notre Dame has been out of business for about two or three years, ever since its proprietor, Michel Notredame, skippped town and rent payments in the dark of the night.

[philadining]

Edited to acknowledge that Bob beat me to it... but yes, Cuvee Notredame has been closed since the fall of 2002. I'll agree that it used to be good, but no waterzooie to be had these days.

I'll let someone who has been to Monk's more recently that I have give an update, but it's just been too crowded, crazy and smoky for me the last few times I even tried to eat there, so I've given up.

Le Bec Fin and Lacroix are certainly amongst our best restaurants, but I wonder if classic and more modern French, respectively, are what someone from Montreal would be eager to have...

As has already been mentioned, some of our most distinctive local foods are pretty simple sandwiches and the like. So for a real Philly thing: a Sarcone's Hoagie; A Roast Pork Sandwich with greens and aged provelone from John's, Tony Luke's or DiNic's; a cheesesteak from John's. Most of these spots are a little out of the way if you don't have a car. But you can accomplish a lot by going to the Reading Terminal Market (not Sundays). Get breakfast at an Amish counter spot. Work up an appetite and get a Roast Pork from DiNic's, or a hoagie from Carmen's or Salumeria. Get a pretzel from Fishers. Then go lay down for a little while.

The other especially noteworthy edge of our cuisine is the BYOB phenomenon, generally small chef-owned operations that make relatively simple, but creative, not-too-expensive food. Stop by one of our recently much-improved state-run liquor stores and grab a bottle of something versatile, and go get some unfussy, but good food. Matyson, Marigold, Melograno and Mandoline have been recent faves on this board. (I don't think there's a rule that that new BYOBs have to start with M, but it can't hurt.)

Let us know if there's something in particular you're lacking in Montreal that you'd like to get. Need Italian? If price is no object, it has been suggested that Vetri might be the best Italian restaurant in the US. Want something less upscale? There's almost too much to list...

Nuevo Latino? Passion and Alma de Cuba are very good.

Feel like some spectacle in the setting? Steven Starr is famous for creating flashy places that often get dissed for being more about the scene, but I've found Morimoto (Japanese), Pod (Asian Fusion) and Tangerine (Moroccan/Mediterranean) to have excellent food.

Don't leave town without getting gelato from Capogiro. I don't care how cold it is outside, just go.

As you get closer, tell us what you're leaning toward and we can refine our suggestions and give you better directions, and perhaps suggest ideal times to go.

Hope we can help!

Edited January 16, 2006 by philadining (log)

[R Washburn]

I suppose I should recommend a pizzeria: "Taconelli's" is probably thought to be the best, although the Walnut street outpost of the NY based "Pietro's" does a nice NY style coal oven pizza.

Edited January 16, 2006 by R Washburn (log)

[Furious Flav-or]

There are two decent Belgian spots in town, Monk's (16th and Spruce) and Cuvée Notre Dame (17th and Green). Cuvée does really, really decent moules et frites and waterzooie. Monk's also makes great burgers.

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How long has it been since you dined in town, Furious? Cuvee Notre Dame has been out of business for about two or three years, ever since its proprietor, Michel Notredame, skippped town and rent payments in the dark of the night.

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Damn, damn, damn. At least three years since I've been there. How did that escape my notice?

Did something worthwhile go into the spot at least?

Hoagies: Primo's, on Ritner near 15th in South Philly, also, apparently, on Chestnut near 21st.

Steaks: Jim's, on South St.

And yes, I admit, I've become terribly provincial in my advancing senescence.

Edited January 16, 2006 by Furious Flav-or (log)

[R Washburn]

Le Bec Fin and Lacroix are certainly amongst our best restaurants, but I wonder if classic and more modern French, respectively, are what someone from Montreal would be eager to have...

Both Chef's are older and a bit conservative but neither serve "classic" cuisine in the sense that their menu's constantly evolve. I recommended Le Bec-Fin for Lunch because it is probably one of the best deals in Philadelphia, and much more affordable than dinner. LaCroix is cheaper but Le Bec-Fin is generally much better.

Current Le Bec-Fin lunch menu: Tasting menu

What does Philadelphia do better than Montreal? Scrapple? Cheesesteaks? Water ice?

[rlibkind]

Fla-vor: Been a couple of months since I drove by 17th & Green, but nothing's replaced Notredame.

Just as I beat Philadining to the punch on Cuvee Notredame, Philadining beat me to recommending the RTM for lunch. I'll just add the following: Although the Pennsylvania Dutch Eating Place is a winner for breakfast, so is the Down Home Diner (and the latter's scrapple is better -- you can't visit Philadelphia without eaing scrapple for breakfast with your eggs). Also, Bassetts ice cream for desert before you take a nap.

Just for comparison's sake, you might want to take lunch at the Famous to see how the sandwiches match up to Schwartz's or Ben's. It's at 4th & Bainbridge, about a 10-15 minute walk south of the historic district.

I would imagine there's decent Asian in Montreal, but if you have a hankering for it visit Chinatown (centered at 10th & Race) for dim sum lunch. A lot of eGulleters, including me, enjoy Rangoon for Burmese fare, which is just a little different from the ordinary. If you want to spend some bucks, there's Susannah Foo for upscale fusion Chinoise, right on Restaurant Row near Le Bec Fin and Brasserie Perrier.

You want oysters? Always a good selection at Sansom Street Oyster House (Sansom Street betweenb 15th and 16th). Good deal on blue points for happy hour. Does a good job on fried and broiled fish and other fish house staples. Try the snapper soup, which I would imagine you would not find in La Belle Provence.

Glance through this board for multidinous discussions of Philadelphia's BYO restaurants, as highlighted by Philadining. in Center City Matyson is a good example of the genre, though the room tends to be noisy.

For old-fashioned red-gravy Italian, try Villa di Roma, Ralph's or Marra's (excellent pizza at Marra's), all in South Philly.

I haven't been there yet, but everyone here is raving about Amada for tapas, which opened late last year. In Center City there's Pasion for inventive South American, especially ceviche.

I wouldn't reject Lacroix out of hand, especially for a wonderful, relaxing Sunday Brunch, just the right way to complete a weekend in town. Reservations highly recommended. Here's the eGullet discussion of Brunch at Lacroix complete with photos.

If your sojourn here takes you to the Philadelphia Museum of Art, just a few blocks away can be found London Grill, the pluperfect neighborhood restaurant. Good food, carefully prepared, graciously served in pleasant surroundings.

Enjoy your visit!

[KatieLoeb]

:cough: <ahem>

If by a weekend you mean Saturday and Sunday, I won't be there, but you could come have lunch or dinner at Amada. If you're in for lunch Mon-Friday I would be delighted to make your acquaintance for lunch at the bar. You can check out the restaurant by clicking on the link in my signature line.

If you want a hoagie go to Chickie's Deli at 10th & Federal. Not open on Sundays. Awesome sandwiches.

If you want a roast pork Italiano head for Tony Luke's at Front & Oregon or DeNic's in Reading Terminal. Neither open on Sunday either.

Tacconelli's Pizza is well worth the 15 minute ride from Center City to the Port Richmond section of town. It's a straight shot up I-95 for an exit or two. You must call and reserve your crusts ahead. It's a weird system but they've done it that way for years. Pizza is stellar. Fat Guy loved it - high praise indeed. Pietro's doesn't exist anymore either.

For breakfast I'd suggest Carman's Country Kitchen. Big wonderfully fresh breakfasts that will fill you up for the better part of the rest of the day.

Many of the above suggestions are reviewed on the Philly Page at Hollyeats.com. You can find many other casual but tasty destinations there as well.

Also a short drive from Center City but well worth the trip is The Grey Lodge, especially if you're a beer aficionado. Great food too.

[philadining]

I think Pietro's is still around, both on Walnut and on South Street... it's the Lombardi's that's gone. I never loved the Pietros, but the Lombardi's... man I miss that place!

As for the taconelli's pizza thing, you not only call ahead to reserve dough, don't they ask you call at least a day ahead??

[KatieLoeb]

I think Pietro's is still around, both on Walnut and on South Street... it's the Lombardi's that's gone.  I never loved the Pietros, but the Lombardi's... man I miss that place!

As for the taconelli's pizza thing, you not only call ahead to reserve dough, don't they ask you call at least a day ahead??

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Whoops! My bad. Philadining is indeed correct, I was thinking of Lombardi's which is no more.

You can call and reserve your crust(s) at Tacconelli's same morning after 10:30 I think.

[MarketStEl]

Hoagies: Primo's, on Ritner near 15th in South Philly, also, apparently, on Chestnut near 21st.

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21st?

I know there's one on 11th just above Chestnut, across from the Foerderer Pavilion at Jefferson Hospital.

As for one of Furious Flav-or's other suggestions--"moderately dangerous dining"--how about some of the other, newer ethnic enclaves around town? Pho on Washington Avenue? Ethiopian on Baltimore?

Oh, one more thing: Of course, you won't find poutine here, but we do have cheese fries.

[rlibkind]

21st? . . . I know there's one on 11th just above Chestnut, across from the Foerderer Pavilion at Jefferson Hospital.

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There's been a Primo's for at least five years on 2000 block of Chestnut

[Furious Flav-or]

21st? . . . I know there's one on 11th just above Chestnut, across from the Foerderer Pavilion at Jefferson Hospital.

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There's been a Primo's for at least five years on 2000 block of Chestnut

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Thanks for validating what's left of my suburbia-addled Philaconsciousness, however …

Hate to disagree, but Marra's ain't the happenin' joint that it once was. The last time I was there, I ordered mussels fra diavolo, and got something that tasted and looked like it came out of the bottom of the dishwasher.

Edited January 17, 2006 by Furious Flav-or (log)

[KatieLoeb]

21st? . . . I know there's one on 11th just above Chestnut, across from the Foerderer Pavilion at Jefferson Hospital.

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There's been a Primo's for at least five years on 2000 block of Chestnut

←

Thanks for validating what's left of my suburbia-addled Philaconsciousness, however …

Hate to disagree, but Marra's ain't the happenin' joint that it once was. The last time I was there, I ordered mussels fra diavolo, and got something that tasted and looked like it came out of the bottom of the dishwasher.

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Marra's is good for certain things. The pizza is good, and usually the standard issue "Mussels Red" or "Mussels White" are good. Sorry to hear yours were sub-par. Are the Mussels Fra Diavolo a menu item that isn't the usually Bucket 'o Reds? If so, then that might explain it. Nothing else on the menu is any good except for maybe the antipasto salad, and even that has suffered over the years.

[philadining]

The escarole soup at Marra's is rocking good... as are the pizzas.

[elicious]

I second Katie's suggestion of Carman's Country Kitchen. I have lived in Boston and am currently living in New York, and have never found anything quite like it in any other city. The constantly changing menu items are innovative and the ingredients are fresh. It is a little out of the way but definitely worth the trip.

[Furious Flav-or]

21st? . . . I know there's one on 11th just above Chestnut, across from the Foerderer Pavilion at Jefferson Hospital.

←

There's been a Primo's for at least five years on 2000 block of Chestnut

←

Thanks for validating what's left of my suburbia-addled Philaconsciousness, however …

Hate to disagree, but Marra's ain't the happenin' joint that it once was. The last time I was there, I ordered mussels fra diavolo, and got something that tasted and looked like it came out of the bottom of the dishwasher.

←

Marra's is good for certain things. The pizza is good, and usually the standard issue "Mussels Red" or "Mussels White" are good. Sorry to hear yours were sub-par. Are the Mussels Fra Diavolo a menu item that isn't the usually Bucket 'o Reds? If so, then that might explain it. Nothing else on the menu is any good except for maybe the antipasto salad, and even that has suffered over the years.

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I'd agree, but fra diavolo is just a heated tune-up of "red," really. Surely that's not a stretch?

[zeffer81]

The escarole soup at Marra's is rocking good... as are the pizzas.

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i'd add the calamari and a rich and creamy fettucine alfredo that you can have for lunch the next day too.

definitely be sure to venture to one of south philly's authentic byobs. l'angolo on 15th and porter(?) and mr. martino's on passyunk ave (inexpensive, limited hours of operation) are just two of many. radicchio on 4th and wood, near the hip olde city section of the city, is another one of my personal favorite byobs.

i would second the recommendation to check out the "dangerous" baltimore avenue eateries, specifically dahlak, which has excellent ethiopian/eritrean food. vientiane is good too, but i wouldn't quite call it a destination spot.

tria is a fun wine and beer bar (and there are a few more in town, but i can't vouch for them.) you might want to check that out for lunch. they have nice cheeses, sandwiches and bruschetta. besides, it's right off rittenhouse square, which is right in the center of town.

you have to visit dinic's in the reading terminal market for a roast pork sandwich. if he's not too busy, chat with tommy dinic for a few minutes--a great guy. salumeria hoagies at the terminal are great too.

enjoy your visit and happy eating.

[KatieLoeb]

21st? . . . I know there's one on 11th just above Chestnut, across from the Foerderer Pavilion at Jefferson Hospital.

←

There's been a Primo's for at least five years on 2000 block of Chestnut

←

Thanks for validating what's left of my suburbia-addled Philaconsciousness, however …

Hate to disagree, but Marra's ain't the happenin' joint that it once was. The last time I was there, I ordered mussels fra diavolo, and got something that tasted and looked like it came out of the bottom of the dishwasher.

←

Marra's is good for certain things. The pizza is good, and usually the standard issue "Mussels Red" or "Mussels White" are good. Sorry to hear yours were sub-par. Are the Mussels Fra Diavolo a menu item that isn't the usually Bucket 'o Reds? If so, then that might explain it. Nothing else on the menu is any good except for maybe the antipasto salad, and even that has suffered over the years.

←

I'd agree, but fra diavolo is just a heated tune-up of "red," really. Surely that's not a stretch?

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They make so much of that sauce for the regular red and white mussels I have to believe that's a least a couple of recipes they've got down with their eyes closed and one hand tied behind them. Although in theory the Fra Diavolo is the same as the regular Reds with some spice, my experience with most of the regular menu items are that they are just passable. I haven't tried their escarole soup but I'll take Philadining's rec on that. It's just the pizza and regular mussels for me at Marra's.