DIGEST: 2004-6 Paris Restaurant News + Reviews

[John Talbott]

The Week of November 28th, 2005

In Figaro’s Madame Magazine, there was an article on four reasons to go to the Salon Saveurs Dec 2-5 (featuring everything from truffles to fish to chocolate to booze with an emphasis on Italian cuisine) – more info can be found on Felice’s What’s Happening thread. There are also several recipes etc. on using spices in Christmas food, written by Michele Carles.

Monday, A Nous Paris (courtesy of Felice) gave the now familiar history of Apollonia Poilane’s assumption in 2002 of the famed bakery at age 18 after her parents’ death in a helicopter crash and her running it from Boston University (Class of 2007). In any case, like the weekly feature in JDD, it gives her favorite resto – la Table du Lancaster and bistrot – La Cuisine de Bar in the 6th, listed in the books as a café and run by Poilane and Co.

Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand of Zurban, reviewed only one French place – La Guinguette à Vapeurs, in the Parc de la Villette at the Rond-point des Canaux, enter from 211, av Jean-Jaurès in the 19th, 01.40.03.72.21, open everyday, a la carte about 20-25 €, which he didn’t like much except for the mussels and petite friture. The other places he covered included two Italian restos – Il Tre + Osteria Ruggera, both in the 2nd and a Thai place – Thabthim Siam in the 8th.

Wednesday, as well, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est nouveau” reviewed and gave two hearts each to two French places – the improbably named Why Not?, 123, ave de Wagram in the 17th, 01.42.27.61.50, closed Sundays where for about 40-45 € (lunch menu = 28 €, other = 34 €) one gets a “verrine” of piperade, poached egg with a chorizo emulsion and a refreshing declinaison of Grand- Marnier; Ripaille, 69, rue des Dames in the 17th, 01.45.22.03.03, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays with a menu-carte of 23 € and 29, lunch formulas for 11 + 15 € with pumpkin soup, scallops with cauliflower and figs with warm wine sorbet; and the Thai place Ban Som Tam in the 17th. Then they gave only one heart to the Italian food-serving Bistrot 31, 31, avenue Théophile-Gautier in the 16th, 01.42.24.52.31, open everyday, running you about 30-45 € and the rugby-inspired K1ZE, 15, rue Gaillon in the 2nd, 01.47.42.28.34, closed Sundays with “ridiculous” asparagus, not really “fierce” patatas bravas and “interesting” bourguignon for 20-25 €, lunch formula = 15,5.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” covered Lebanese places: Fevrouz, Pavillion Noura, Al Dar, Al-Alani, Fakhr El Dine, Fleurs de thym, Rimal, Al Mankal, B-Café + Beyrouth Mets et Vins,

Francois Simon’s ”Hache Menu” reviewed the Lebanese place Liza, which following my rules, I will not detail.

Thursday in l’Express, there was a review by Jean-Luc Petitrenaud of Boulangerie Julien, 75, rue Saint-Honoré in the 1st raving about his baguette and chocolate tartelette. He also touts the Italian pasta épicerie – Le Mille Pâtes in the 1st.

In the space usually dominated by Gilles Pudlowski in Le Point, Aurélie Jacques heralds the publication of Pudlo’s latest guide (2006: Michel Lafon, 459 p., 18 E) that features the 150 new restos that have appeared this year and a total of 1800 places located throughout Paris from the “eternal” (6th) to “emerging” (11th) arrondissements. In his own contribution that follows here (Le Point), GP went to the Costes brothers new brasserie with terrace - Le Village royal, 25, rue Royale in the 8th, 01.40.17.02.19, a la carte: 35-60 E for salmon tartar, chicken breast with curry and a raspberry macaron. He also notes that Benoit + Les Grades Marches are in good shape. Other pieces concern: the brioches of David Tamiser of Le Fournil du Château in Gordes, l’Oasis de Cassagne in Le Pontet (Avignon), Koji Aida’s Japanese place in Paris, anchovies from Collioure, the recipe for a salade of anchovies and Messa in Tel Aviv, Israel.

Thursday, Jean-Claude Ribaut had an article on couscous where he mentions several prime destinations: La Boule rouge, la Mansouria de Fatema Hal, la Maison de Charly, Wally le Saharien + L'Atlas. {Ed Note: Persons interested in the various ways couscous is prepared and presented, e.g., with fish, meat, fennel, pumpkin, dry, wet, etc. should consult the text.}

Jean-Louis Galesne in Friday’s Les Echos had an article on brunch, calling it a Parisian “institution.” He mentions that Philippe Toinard (of A Nous Paris fame) has put out a book called “Le Guide du brunch à Paris,” éditions de l'IF with 200 addreses that allows you to avoid mistakes and that the Crillon + Maison du Danemark are high on his (Toinard’s) list. However, he (Galesne) favors Liza, Kiwi Corner, Barrio Latino + le Ritz.

Francois Simon in Le Figaro’s “Croque Notes,” this week, continued his tour of top restaurants with the Four Seasons George V, 01.49.52.71.54, where despite the two best sommeliers in the world, the best maitre d’ and a three-star chef, he manages to describe everything but the food, whose price, he asserts, would take the enamel off your teeth. In addition, he said that the place of the week is La Ferrandaise, 8, rue de Vaugirard, 01.43.26.36.36, with an astonishing menu at 30 E offering a chestnut and mushroom soup, poached scallops, pheasant hen with ancient vegetables and chocolate-nut entremets. Finally, in Figaro he discusses the magazine Restaurant’s best places in the world, reporting that the Fat Duck is Number 1 (the closest French one is Gagnaire in number 6 position and other stars, eg Ducasse, Robuchon, Savoy + Bocuse, behind).

Added later: the exact positions of the French places were #6 Gagnaire, #11 Michel Bras, #16 Guy Savoy, #17 Alain Ducasse, #24 le Meurice, #26 l'Arpege, #29 le Cinq, #37 l'Auberge de l'Ill and #50 La Tupina.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote the “Guy Martin Grand Vefour Buzz” and there is also a piece by John Talbott “On speaking French or at least Franglais when dining.”

The Sunday New York Times had an article about Divonne-les-Bains by Anne Glusker that mentioned several restaurants: a sandwich/salad place – Les Quatre Vents, an “archetypal” French place serving international cuisine – Charlys Pub and two one-star restaurants in hotels – the Domaine de Divonne + Chateau de Divonne. In addition, the NYT Magazine had a piece by Maura Egan on the macaroon art done by an American artist, Will Cotton, mentioning two prominent Parisian macaroon-shops: Laduree + Fauchon and giving a recipe for Paris-type lemon ones.

In the weekend FT, Sue Style had an article on (Vacherin) Le Mont d’Or suggesting UK’ers use it instead of Stilton at their Christmas dinners. {Ed Note: in the spirit of “Old dogs, etc” I finally learned that the Vacherin pre-word is used for that cheese from the Swiss side of the Juras; unencumbered Le Mont d’Or from the French side.}

Amber Garrison, in Postcards from Paris, suggested several “incontournables” restos, eg that are “not too fancy, but classy and good.” They included: Le Pre Verre, Le Relais de l’Entrecôte, Tokyo Eat + Le Pure Café.

Edited by John Talbott to add full details to French chefs/restos place in international ratings in Restaurant magazine.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited December 10, 2005 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of December 5th, 2005

Monday, A Nous Paris’s Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 blocks to the wine bar Vin Chai Moi, coordinates already given, which he essentially terms a safe haven in this (20th) neighborhood; meanwhile Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks as well to La Cave est Restaurant, ditto coordinates, where wine and food are equally well represented.

In Wednesday’s Zurban, Sebastien Demorand devoted his major photo and space but only a lukewarm reception to a new Pourcel (his calculation their 52nd) resto – Sens, 23, rue do Ponthieu in the 8th, 01.42.25.95.00, serving “chic junk-food” for 50 E a la carte and a 18E lunch formula. {Editor’s Note: I went by yesterday and like the Atelier de JR, you have the sense of trying to look into a limo with one-way mirrored windows, although the photos of the inside show bright, trendy furniture.} His “Casserole” places were the bistro Les Fils de la Ferme, 5, rue Mouton-Duvernet in the 14th, 01.45.39.39.61, closed Sunday and Monday, menu-carte at 26E, where he had a mostly successful meal for the price (pate, scallops with a superb puree of cauliflower and an enormous portion of Munster) and the Italian place Innamorati in the 3rd.

But, also in Zurban, whose cover announced “30 secret addresses,” Demorand asked ten chefs to list their favorite resto, wine bar and store; they are as follows:

Bruno Doucet (Regalade), Ambassadeurs, Papilles, Planete fruits

Benoit Bordier (Chez Jean), Mon Viel Ami, Coteaux du 9e, Couteau d’Argent

Sylvain Sendra (Temps au Temps), Baratin, Cave de l’insolite, Idea Vino

Bertrand Bluy (Papilles), Comtoir du Relais, Cave des Papilles, Cap Hispania

Viveka Sandklef (l’Indigo Square), Tagawa, Ma cave, Mon Petit boucher

Rodolphe Paquin (Repaire de Cartouche), Paul-Bert, Auge, Patisserie Demoulin

Gilles Choukroun (Angl’Opera), Chez Jean, Lavinia, Izrael

Christophe Beaufort (l’Avant Gout), Cerisaie, Avant-Gout cote cellier, Boucherie St-Medard

Flora Mikula (Flora), AOC, Café du Passage, Tang Freres

Christian Etchebest (Le Troquet), Lou Mazuc, Guy Jeunemaitre, Beau & Bon

This week’s Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau” awarded 2/4 hearts to three places. In pole position (photo and blurb) was the {6th place by my reckoning} chic and elegant restaurant opened two weeks ago by the Coutanceau family of La Rochelle (2 macarons, 4 knives & forks) Le Cou de la Giraffe, 7, rue Paul-Baudry in the 8th, 01.56.88.29.55, closed Sat lunch and Sundays, 39 E and 45 E menus, a la carte runs 50-60 E, where ER liked the carpaccio of scallops, stuffed rabbit and “exochic” pineapple with vanilla butter{for my even more enthusiastic take, see my post after December 17th.} His other two hearts went to Victor & Capucine, 101 bis, rue Lauriston in 16th, 01.47.27.55.07, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, formula at 25, a la carte about 35E for an impeccable egg cocotte, beef with morilles and gratineed potatoes and Miss Betsy, 23, rue Guillaume-Tell in the 17th, 01.42.67.12.67, closed Saturday and Sunday, with menus at 25, 29 and 33 E, lunch formula = 12 E - serving crunchy veggies and Salers beef tartare with sage. Rubin gave one heart to Le Petit Four, 4, rue Auguste-Vacquerie in the 16th, 01.47.20.62.52, closed Sunday and Monday, running one about 25-35 E a la carte for tomato soup needing heating, flabby veggie cake and “so-what” cheese-cake. He also gave a busted heart to Les Elles in the 4th.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” concerned Scandinavian places, which conforming to my rule, I’ll just list: Flora Danica, Olsen, Petite Serene de Copenhague, Comptoir du Saumon & Cie, Café Lapon, Nils, Café des Lettres, Café Suedois, Comptoir Nordique, Ikea + Cercle Suedois.

Francois Simon’s ”Hache Menu” reviewed the Swedish place Trema.

Thursday in l’Express, there were reviews by Jean-Luc Petitrenaud of Au Soleil d’Austerlitz, 18, bvd de l'Hôpital in the 5th, 01.43.31.39.36, menu at 14E serving rabbit terrine, tete de veau, sautéed kidneys, a cote de beef and a fish of the day as well as the Obélisque at the Hotel Crillon, 4, rue Boissy-d'Anglas in the 8th, 01.44.71.15.15 serving a 50 E menu with things such as veal scallops, beef filet, lobster with green beans, scallops, well the list goes on to cover most anything you can think of. He also reviewed the Auberge de Saint-Mont in Saint-Mont (Gascony) which has a 9 E menu {I swear that’s what it says.}

Thursday, as well, Alain Ducasse in Le Point, on the verge of opening his second resto in Tokyo, offered us two books, the Dictionnaire amoureux des menus plaisirs byAlain Schifres (Plon, 459 p., 24 E) and Pain par Poilâne, by Lionel and Apollonia Poilâne (Le Cherche-Midi, 389 p., 35 e).

Thursday’s ParuVendu gave as its weekend pick – Papille in the 11th and last week ran an article on women chefs in Paris: Helene Darroze, Chez Catherine Guerraz, Cathy Vidalenc at Le Reveil du 10eme, Flora Mikula, Dominique Versini at Casa Olympe, Adrienne Biasin at Chez la Vieille, Alice Bardet at Le Point Bar and Iza Guyot at Le Casier a Vin.

Thursday, Metro reported the winners of the fall-winter “Fooding 2005 week” reported here by Felice; in case you only see this they were Le Comptoir, Ante Prima, Gaya pPG, La Cave est Restaurant, Fogon, Senderens, + Kai.

Friday in Les Echos, Jean-Louis Galesne had an article on several restaurants in Reims (it being champagne season and all) that included: Les Crayères, L'Assiette Champenoise, Le Foch, Le Petit Comptoir + Le Boulingrin.

Saturday, Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro concerned itself with some un-named resto proposing a “menu” in honor of Joel Robuchon and Alain Ducasse, with Simon suggesting that this was a pretty silly idea, if you wanted their food you’d go to their places and then going on about their various forays into each other’s territories, for example, Monte Carlo, Tokyo and New York. In addition, in Le Figaro’s Madame Magazine, there was an article on various holiday chocolate desserts. I believe I also missed reporting on the November 26/27 weekend Figaro article by Francois Simon on top restos in Nantes; in any case, the top 4 getting 4 points for the cuisine were the Maison Baron Lefevre, l’Abelia, Le Pressoir + l’Atlantide.

Saturday/Sunday in the WSJ an article entitled "Trendy Paris's New Hood,” that is, the 10th,11th,19th, and 20th arrondissements mentioned: Le Boulangerie, Chez Prune, La Bague de Kenza, Cafe Charbon + Juan et Juanita.

Sunday, in the JDD – the featured chef was Marc Meneau of Vezelay whose picks of reasonable places he likes in Paris were: Le Point Bar + Polidor. In addition, in the Femina magazine, Astrid de T’Serclaes reviewed Al Dente + Café Ventilo.

Where Paris’s Alexander Lobrano’s “Trendy New Table” was Sens pour la Compagnie des Comptoirs, coordinates already given, where he loved the swordfish and duck; his “Holiday Dining” tip was Le Jardin at the Hotel Royal Monceau, where he praises the vegetables especially; and his three “Best Bistrots” for December were l’Evasion, 7, pl St-Augustin in the 8th, 01.45.22.66.20, which he says “gets it right on all counts” {but I’ll be differing when I post my review next week}, La Tradition, 2, rue de Budapest in the 9th, 01.48.74.37.33 open only for lunch with foie gras, steak au poivre and “easy-going prices and Le Petit Verdot coordinates given previously. IN a nearby article that deserves wider distribution, Lobrano blasts the French Michelin Red Guide as out of date and touts the Omnivore product, the 150 tables de la Jeune Cuisine mentioned in this thread. He also listed the game restaurants currently serving such: l’Ambrosie, A La Biche au Bois, Gerard Besson, Le Petit Colombier, Au Petit Marguery, Le Repare de Cartouche, La Soupiere + La Traversiere.

Meanwhile Time Out Paris is touting Benoit largely for its “tiled floor, etched glass, banquettes and brass coat rails,” rather than 70 E food.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, there is a piece by John Talbott entitled “Reinventing Paris Restaurants.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of December 12th, 2005

Monday, A Nous Paris’s Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 blocks to Le Cou de la Girafe coordinates given last week, where he particularly liked the raw dorade, scallops a la plancha and mango dessert {my reaction is here}. His colleague, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks as well to La Reserve, 141, rue St-Maur in the 11th, 01.48.05.78.15, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Mondays, lunch formulas at 10 and 12 E [sic], where he loved the choucroute at lunch and crème brulee. {Ed Note: at year’s end, this sounds like it just captured the 2005 price-quality ratio prize, if the reportage is accurate.}

In Wednesday’s Zurban, Sebastien Demorand reviewed two French places; the first, the bar area at Senderens called Le Passage, same coordinates as the mother-house, where one can get tapas, dim sum, dynamite salmon, etc for about 45 E a la carte (but not apparently a bottle of wine; only glasses at 10E) and the neighborhood place Le Tяuc, 58, rue du Poteau in the 18th, 01.42.52.64.09, closed Mondays, about 25 E a la carte, where he, like me {E. N.: I use “me” rather than “I,” because it sounds better, cf William Safire}, enjoyed the huge piece of lamb. He also reviewed an Italian-sounding but more likely fusiony-world-food place, with the name of the year, Habemus Papum {you know, the white smoke after the gray smoke, in St Peter’s Square – we have a Pope}, in the 2nd and a Thai place – Mme Shawn in the 10th.

Wednesday as well, Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau”’s Emmanuel Rubin awarded 3/4 hearts to two places {an unusual event}. The first is Le Transversal, Place de la Liberation in Vitry-sur-seine (94) in the new MacVal museum, 01.55.53.09.93, open everyday except Monday; Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday 11 AM-7 PM and 11 AM – 12 PM Thursday, Friday and Saturday, costing about 30-50 E, menu of ten “miniatures” = 40 E, the food is described as rough and good {my reaction is here}. The second place is called the Pur’Grill, in the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendome in the 2nd, 01.58.71.10.61, open evenings 7-11 PM, costing 80-100 E a la carte, menu at 120 E serving a deconstructed crème brulee of foie gras, Kobe beef and a glamorous fruit dessert – it’s chef’d by JF Rouquette exScribe. One heart went to La Guinguette a vapeurs, 211, ave Jean-Jaures in the 19th, 01.40.03.72.21, about 20-25 E for oysters, eperlans and chicken. Finally, {sadly} the Café des Delices in the 6th, Gilles Choukroun’s first {and wonderful} resto got a broken heart for its Italian fare.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” listed places for New Year’s Eve:

Less than 100E

Ripaille, Lena et Mimile, Les Noailles + le Pavillion de Montsouris

100-150 E

l’Angle du Faubourg, l’Escargot Montorgueil, Chez Clement, l’Alcazar + Le Kiosque

150-200 E

Senso, Bound, Café M + Chez Raymond

200-300 E

Yvan au Montecristo, Table de Lancaster, Carre des Feuillants + Laurent

300-500 E

Les Trois Marches, Les Bateaux Parisiens + le Pre Catalan

500 E Plus

Le Bristol, Les Ambassadeurs, Les Elysees du Vernet + l’Espadon.

Meanwhile, Francois Simon’s idea for New Year’s Eve in his ”Hache Menu” is to go on the Don Juan II for a dinner cruise costing a “very dear” 395 E for two unless money means nothing to you, in which case, you’ll eat well.

Thursday in l’Express, J-L Petitrenaud writes enthusiastically of the alpha and omega (at least of prices – 50 and 9 E menus respectively) of L'Obélisque, at the Hotel Crillon, coordinates given before, and the Auberge de Saint-Mont in Saint-Mont.

In Thursday’s Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski reviews several restaurants in Paris. He suggests we watch Why Not?, coordinates already given, where Philipe Colin has taken over cooking semi-cooked tuna, carpaccio of pig’s feet and grouper tandoori on a 34 E menu. He also conmtinues to like le Relais du Parc + Pavillion Noura but judges Il Gusto Sardo to be in trouble. Outside Paris he likes Régis et Jacques Marcon’s Restaurant des Cimes in Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid, the Saint-Georges in Chalon-sur-Saône, Le Bréard in Honfleur and the Auberge du Pin in Valence. He also gives a recipe of Alain Passard for Rennes chicken with crayfish and talks of the product.

Thursday, ParuVendu’s Pierre Rival reviewed Steak & Lobster {that originally, frankly, I thought was a joke of a name for a restaurant, but is seeing increasingly good press}. He comments on its good price/quality ratio.

Thursday/Friday, in Le Monde’s Special Supplement about celebrations and champagne, Jean-Claude Ribaut writes about the holiday menu at Guy Savoy containing champagne, fish and game.

Saturday, Francois Simon in Le Figaro has a one-page article on the “peoplization” of French chefs, focusing on six of the most telegenic/media-focused, the problem their kitchens suffer when their “human” presence is not evident and as a result he rates each with one to five microscopic TV sets with chefs’ toques in an attempt to provide satisfaction/frustration ratios (Rsf: 1-5):

Bocuse (nearing 80), one of the three star chefs who is the “most present” – Rsf = 5; Robuchon (60), the only chef who’s created his own TV chain, who can be found in airport clubs more often than at the stove – Rsf = 1;

Veyrat (55), a real pleasure on TV, who’d like a bigger media role – Rsf = 4;

Ducasse (49), who’s everywhere on TV rather than cooking – Rsf = 1;

Darroze (38), who is the most photogenic and who does stay at home – Rsf = 4;

Lignac (27), he of “Oui chef,” who also is cooking at night – Rsf = 4.

He also gives (yet again) an update on Michel del Burgo, ex-everyplace, who has still not signed, sealed and delivered anything, anywhere.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, there is a piece by Margaret Kemp on Bon, coordinates well-known, as well as one by John Talbott entitled “Liza Minnelli lied (at least about NYC vs. Paris)” about Paris not New York being the place for chefs to make their reputation.

In the Sunday Travel Section of the NYT, Seth Sherwood has an article “Heart of Paris, An African Beat” that mentions several restaurants: Le 404, La Villa Mauresque, La Bague de Kenza, Le Souk,Mansouria + Oum El Banine.

The latest Omnivore is full of its usual mixture of reportage, announcements (that I’ll leave for Felice to describe), recipes, etc. The big news was a propos the trip of five young chefs, of whom, Gilles Choukroun, is probably best known, to Japan. In addition, continuing their promotion of “Generation C” chefs, Luc Dubrachet writes of the demonstration/visits of William Ledeuil, Gilles Choukroun and David Zuddas, of Ze KG, l’Angl’Opera + l’Auberge de la Charme (Prenois), respectively, to the Ecole Ferrandi in Paris. More “Generation C” chefs participated in a September 12th event, including those from Mon Viel Ami, le Refectoire, La Famille + Flora . There are a host of book reviews, one for a book that is particularly different and written and published by women– Testicules by Blandine Vie (Editions de l’Epure, 274 pp, 28 E.)

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of December 19th, 2005

Monday, A Nous Paris featured an interview of Grand Vefour’s chef, Guy Martin, {Ed Note: who seems to be getting a lot of press coverage this winter} by Dominique Artus in which Martin lists his favorite Paris restaurants as Positano + Risi E Bisi and {according to my source Felice}, “plugs four dishes that he created for Monoprix for the holidays that must be ordered…..: Foie gras chaud, un homard roti, des coquilles Saint jacques, and pintade au gratin de pommes de terres.”

Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban reviewed three French places in his “Casseroles.” The first was Diapason, (in the Terrass Hotel), 12-14, rue, Joseph de Maistre in the 18th, 01.44.92.34.00, closed Sunday night, a la carte about 45-50 €, which despite the fact that he dislikes hotel restaurants and found the food prices a bit dear (esp. because it lacks a “menu”) for this area, served good, “serious food” with a neo-classic and southern twist {for my take see here}. He also returned to Chez Casimir, coordinates well-known, which has a new chef {yet again} who is serving “OK food” for good prices (25-30€.) The third place is the Pavillion Baltard, 9, rue Coquillière in the 1st, 01.42.36.22.00, open everyday, with formulas at 15-19 € and a la carte about 28 € - with oysters, pate, snails and andouillette that are “not bad” if you’re in the area – that is, Les Halles. His main review was devoted to a Japanese sushi bar – Kilala in the 1st.

Wednesday’s NYT announced the publication by Little Brown ($16.95 paperback) of a book that may interest members – The Authentic Bistros of Paris by François Thomazeau, with photographs by Sylvain Ageorges and translated by Anna Moschovakis (but not findable in the original on Amazon.fr), that supposedly lists 50 bistrots not found in say the Michelin, {although one of them, Chez George, is certainly well-known by readers for this Forum.} I missed reporting a few weeks ago that the NYT’s Eric Asimov wrote an extended article on books about wine called “The Pour: Words on Wine, From Opposing Shores” in which he mentions two books of interest to our member/readers: The Wines of the Northern Rhône, University of California Press, $55 by John Livingstone-Learmonth and Champagne: How the World's Most Glamorous Wine Triumphed Over War and Hard Times, William Morrow, $24 by Don and Petie Kladstrup.

Thursday in l’Express, J-L Petitrenaud wrote reviews of two places - Helene Darroze, coordinates well-known and Chez Michel in Nimes.

Thursday in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski featured a mix of products (caviar, Grand Marnier, salmon), recipes (soufflé with Grand Marnier) and restaurants abroad (Bernadin in NY and Philippe Rochat - 15 years with Fredy Giradet - in Crissier/Lausanne) and in Paris: Sens, a resto to watch; Steak and Lobster, a resto in trouble and two places in good shape – Market + Coconnas, 2 bis, place des Vosges in the 4th, 01.42.78.58.16, menu at 32 E, a la carte : 60, run by a young Breton - Aymeric Kräml, ex-Ducasse + le Crillon, taking over with “brio” and serving a tarte of cepes, a monumental chicken, veal’s head and tiramisu all for 32 E.

This week’s VSD Magazine has a “duel” between Alain Passard and French gastronomic journalist Périco Légasse on the subject “Is French cuisine going to hell,” largely dealing with Passard’s love of veggies.

This week, Jean-Claude Ribaut had three articles: December 20th on wine storage, December 21st on France’s producing too much wine and too many types/brands of wine and December 22nd, on the 13 traditional Provencal desserts of Christmas {there were no resto reviews.}

Sunday, in the December 11th New York Times Magazine, Amanda Hesser announced that a French classic La Bonne Cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange, first published in 1927, had been translated by Paul Aratow into English and was now available {it is 29.87 E Amazon.fr and $26.40 from Amazon.com}.

In Expatica this week, Clair Whitmer has written an article entitled French feasting: how to enjoy foie gras, about how to “choose it, serve it, and enjoy it.” I’ll let you savor it in the original. In addition, a NYT of December 14th had an article by John Tagliabue pegged on/to the “Comtesse du Barry” line of foie gras about the state of foie gras in France.

December’s Discover Paris newsletter, discussed “Christmas on the Rue Mouffetard” specifically where to get cheese, wine, bread and dessert.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of December 26th, 2005

Two Thursdays ago, Paris Vendu’s Pierre Charles wrote an extended piece on where to get your ingredients for the various end of the year festivities, that included:

For foie gras:

Petrossian

Sapidus

Comtess du Barry

Wine:

La Garde Robe

Les Crus du Soleil

Champagne:

Nicolas Feuillatte

Bread:

Eric Kayser

Le Coquelicot

Barthelemy

Yves Desgranges

For Buches de Noel:

Pierre Marcolini

Jean-Paul Hevin

For chocolates:

Patrice Chapon

La Maison du Chocolat

Desserts:

Pierre Herme

{I try to keep my editorial voice muted in this Digest but sometimes it is difficult; example:} In last week’s Paris Match, pages 68-71 were devoted to an article/interview by Irene Vacher with three photos of Helene Darroze on her bed, dressed in pink, turquoise and black negligees {that would be suitable for a Victoria’s Secret catalog: are we to surmise that cheesecake fills seats at her eponymous resto or that she’s a trend-setter and we will soon see photo-montages of Paul Bocuse, Alain Ducasse et al in jockey shorts?}

Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” in last Saturday-Sunday’s Figaro wrote an essay whose title translates “Damnation” or “Damn me” about the tension between the edge-pushing chefs of Omnivore’s “Generation C” and the “Big Boys” who say “French cuisine is not dead.” But he notes, the Japanese born chef who runs Stella Maris makes a better game tart {than the others,} despite not having garnered a Michelin star. Taking a swipe at airplane food (where the French flag is at half mast,) he says it’s good to come back to earth and find a good “small address” in the 6th – La Boissonnerie, aka Fish La Boissonnerie, 69, rue de Seine, 01.43.54.34.69, where the fish and wine were superb and where the owners and clients were well-brought-up Anglophones.

Bonjour Paris appeared a bit late this week. In it are an article by Margaret Kemp entitled “We are all fou” about Alain Ducasse’s latest effort to promote young chefs called “Fou de France,” which recently involved Fabrice Biasolo preparing lunch for M. Ducasse. In the same issue was an article by John Talbott entitled “Parsing French Restaurant Reviews.” {Reading the complete versions of both require Premium Subscription-ship, if there is such a word.}

Wednesday, in Zurban, Sebastien Demorand, was imagining what he would do on New Year’s Eve, saying that if he did not go to a “normal” restaurant serving “reasonably-priced” food, such as le Baratin, figured out what he would have if eating a picnic or at home and from where (Galeries Lafayette for Bellotta-Bellotta, Coteaux du 9e for wine and Fauchon for desserts). In his “Restos a la Cassserole” he wrote up one wine bar that has fine pork dishes - La Garde a Manger, 41, rue de l’Arbre Sec in the 1st, 01.49.26.90.60, open everyday with a formula at 8.50 E and a la carte about 10-30 E, where he loved the cochonnailles and oysters; the increasingly-well-reviewed but imitative US Steak house - Steak and Lobster, coordinates above; and the pizza/pasta/trattoria La Pizzetta in the 9th.

In Wednesday’s Zurban as well, Antoine Besse gave a whole list of places to go for New Year’s Eve that were not quite as dear as the list I digested December 12th from Figaroscope. It included several restaurants: Le Troisieme Lieu, Bouillion Racine, Mezzanine de l’Alcazar, Hotel Montalembart, Music Hall, Chalet du Lac, l’Entrepot, Au Noailles + Curieux Spaghetti Bar.

In the year-end Figaroscope pull-out supplement (graciously supplied by Felice) they list the “best of 2005” places that I have posted elsewhere on the ”Best of” thread. In addition, however, Emmanuel Rubin wrote an article on what we can expect in 2006. Example: Triple-star chef Antoine Westerman “orchestrates” the new menu and décor at Drouant; Michel del Burgo finally assumes direction of Jamin; Inaki Aiziparte, now at Transversal, takes control of the Chateaubriand; Thierry Faucher, l’Os a Moelle’s owner, opens a new tapas place in the 15th; Caviar & House Prunier open a “seafood bar” on the second floor; l’Apollo changes its concept; Taste Monde of Issy-les-Moulineaux opens a new place in the 7th; Vin & Maree changes hands; and Gilles Choukroun of l’Angl’Opera, opens a new place at the new Museum of Arts Deco in September.

Wednesday/Thursday, in Le Monde’s Jean-Claude Ribaut had an article on sweet natural wines (vin doux naturel or VDN, such as Rivesaltes, Banyuls and Beaumes-de-Venise) that go with everything from game to chocolate as well as one on with what to serve them and where to buy ones for New Year’s Eve.

Saturday/Sunday, Alexandra Michot devoted a entire page in Le Figaro to the celebration of Fauchon’s 120th birthday with a history of its life to date accompanied by photos of gold and silver wrapped éclairs, exotic fruit, a Pierre Herme creation as well as their cooking stars – Fukimo Kono and Christophe Adam.

Omnivore, the relatively new publication dedicated to “advancing” French cuisine beyond its current limitations and passionate advocate of “Generation C” chefs {about which I’ll have more to say in a new thread}, published a full and detailed review/explication/treatise by its editorial director, Luc Dubanchet, on Transvзrsal, coordinates given before, that shows how in many ways, this place {my take on it is here} is its iconographic restaurant. The remainder of the publication provides a fascinating compendium of: news items, stories about TV cooking shows, recipes, book reviews and reports of close encounters with other food cultures.

And just in time for the New Year’s Eve celebration, thanks to Felice, I’ve learned of Le Fooding’s new bulletins, this one has listed six spots to go tonight: Lei, Ploum, Flora, Senderens, Ramulaud + Chez Jean. The reasons can be found at their website.

Happy New Year!

__________________________________________________________________

It is traditional at the end of the year to thank others who have been particularly helpful to folks in the preceding year. This Digest could not happen without the help of numerous people. First off, I’m grateful to Steve Shaw and Jason Perlow for giving us all the opportunity to be members of the eGullet community; it’s rare to have any activity that has such high standards, active participation and incredible enthusiasm as eGullet. Second, I’m thankful to Robert Buxbaum for encouraging me to develop this late life second career and to the team on the French Forum: Lucy Vanel, our Manager and Phyllis Flick, our Events Specialist. Third, I could not do this without people collecting the raw data from which I work, from Phyllis to Luc Dubanchet, who faithfully deliver respectively “A Nous Paris” and “Omnivore” to my doorstep/fax machine, as well as my sources for new experiences – Paga, Felice, Pierre45, Zouave, John Whiting and so many others who write me with suggestions. And fourth, thanks to the readers of the Digest who provide wonderful notes of encouragement; I’m not able to answer each one but I appreciate them – thanks to you Laidback, Carlsbad, Margaret Pilgrim, Raisab, weinoo, Eatmywords, Images, markk, molto e, Zeitoun, follonica2, OAKGLEN, Sachsmo and mzimbeck. Finally, funnily enough, thanks to the chefs, young and old, in Paris (who read this Forum more carefully than any of us realize) for producing the terrific stuff we can write about. And I must conclude by thanking my wife, Colette, who puts up with the quality and quantity of this craziness; which she aids and abets through gifts such as Dianne Jacob’s Will Write for Food, Marlowe & Co, NY, 2005.

That’s about it for 2005; Happy New Year! 2006 is afoot, let’s go!

___________________________________________________________________

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 2nd, 2006

The new year opened with two articles in Bonjour Paris, one by Margaret Kemp entitled “Come celebrate,” that mentioned several places to go for the “fetes;” including: Le Ripaille, le Pavillion Montsouris, Les Trois Marches in Versailles, l’Espadon + Chez Francois and John Talbott on “The New French Resto: Friendly and Terrific” that ironically, also uses Le Ripaille, as its jumping off point.

Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand, of Zurban, wrote that he also really liked Ripaille, 69, rue des Dames in the 17th, 01.45.22.03.03, closed Saturday and Sunday for lunch, lunch formulas = 11-15€ and menu-carte : 29€, where he loved the vegetables, pork cheeks with polenta, salmon sashimi and rabbit with wines of the owner. His major space/review, however, was devoted to Le Transvзrsal, located in the Mac/Val {Musee d’art contemporain du Val-de-Marne}, place de la Libération, Dept 94, Vitry-sur-Seine, 01.55.53.09.93, open for lunch Tuesday to Sunday and dinner Thursday to Saturday, lunch special = 12€, a la carte from 15-30€, surprise dinner menu : 40€, where he sampled 50 “propositions” of vegetables of Joel Thiebault or confited tomatoes from Liguria, fish, meat (such as Navarre ham), oysters, etc all day but at night one samples a “performance” of a dozen dishes, that included, the night he ate there – oysters, cod “petals,” scallops & beets, frog’s legs, calamari, rabbit with smoked eel, paleron, comte & pear. He also went to two other French places about he was less enthusiastic – a place he called a schizophrenic bistrot {presumably because the food wasn’t good but the wines were}, Les Rochons, 25, quai de la Tournelle in the 5th, 01.46.34.50.99, closed Saturday for lunch and Tuesdays, a la carte about 30€, where he talks about the foie gras, andouillette and cheese; and the South-west oriented jam-packed Fernandises, 19, rue de la Fontaine-au-Roi in the 11th, 01.48.06.16.96, lunch menu at 15€, a la carte about 30€, where he commented positively on the pastilla of pigeon but was critical of the reheated, too cooked, too dry other things. {For my take on all the above except the third, see here.}

Wednesday as well, le Figaroscope published a “Dossier” of vegetarian or vegetarian-friendly places that included:

B.A.M.

Lena et Mimile

Les Vivres

Zoe bouillon

Naked

Biotifull Place

Café Guitry

Lood Juice Bar

And also Bioboa, Colette Au Water Bar, Rose Bakery, Mon Vieil Ami, le Montalembart & Relais du parc.

Wednesday/Thursday, Le Monde’s Jean-Claude Ribaut wrote two articles, one entitled “Intimate Service” about catered meals at home that featured: Ghislane Arabian, now head of “production” of Passion Traiteur, 145, bvd de Valmy in Colombes, 01.46.49.45.50 who has 50 cooks and 40 pastry chefs and Prosper & Fortunee 50, rue Broca in the 5th, 06.14.01.90.19 as well as chefs who will come and cook, such as Olivier Quatacker, of Gast'Home, 3, sentier du Clos-aux-Renards in Le Plessis-Robinson, 01.49.73.27.41, those from Vigneau-Desmarest, 107, rue de Sèvres in the 6th, 01.42.22.23.23, "Chef Service", 10, rue du Jour in the 1st, 01.40.13.97.21 and www.chef-service.com, Private Chefs Inc. of Antibes, 04.93.34.62.55 or www.unchefchezvous.com, "Votre chef à domicile", who is an American from Louisiana, Jessie Dardar, 01.40.50.64.33 and Pascal Avignon, 06.70.79.25.46 or www.chefadom.com.

Thursday in Le Point’s Gilles Pudlowski continued his usual mixture of products, recipes and restaurant reviews. Two new places he is enthusiastic about in Paris are Carte Blanche + le Café des Musees and the place he feels holds up over time is La Luna, coordinates of all three already given or in the guidebooks. He discusses a bakery he likes - Le Pain de Sucre, 14, rue Rambuteau in the 3rd, run by an ex-Pierre Gagnaire pastry chef and also writes of several places outside Paris - Le Cirque in Scheveningen, Holland, La Villa Lorraine in Brussels, Le Grand Largue in Port-Navalo and Le Pouilly-Reuilly in Le Pré-Saint-Gervais. Finally, he writes of top class sardines from Quiberon and gives a recipe for a sardine sandwich from Michel Rostang.

Thursday, L’Express had an article by François-Régis Gaudry on Gruyère cheese implying that the best is to be had at Marie-Anne Cantin, 12, rue du Champ-de-Mars in the 7th, 01.45.50.43.94.

In Friday’s Les Echos, an article on Soup by Jean-Louis Galesne suggested them as an ideal after-fete meal and mentioned several top places: Passiflore, La Chamarre, La Galerie du V + Ebis the Asiatic place at 19, rue Saint-Roch in the 1st, 01.42.61.05.90.

Saturday/Sunday, Le Figaro’s Alexandra Michot and Francois Simon rated four aspects (appearance, flakiness, interior and taste of it all), of Galettes from everywhere from Pierre Herme (40 E for 6) to Monoprix (4.95 E for 6). Their findings (20 being a perfect score):

Pain et Passion 18

G. Mulot 15.5

P. Herme 15

Lenotre 15

Hediard 13.5

Fauchon 12.5

Rollet-Pradier 12.5

Kayser 12

Stohrer 12

Grande Epicerie 11.5

Vandermeersch 11.5

A. Delmontel 10.5

Dalloyau 10

Laduree 9

Paul 8

Monoprix 6

In an adjacent article, the senior author explained how to reheat it, etc. And with a new twist, Poilane, Le Notre, Fauchon + Laruree are making designer jewelry, pendants, and plates cum “feves.”

In his nearby “Croque Notes,” Francois Simon wrote that one had to have a license in psychology to understand restaurant functioning; citing the recent takeover of Drouant by Antoine Westermann who designates himself as “consulting chef,” having moved Anthony Clemot here as “cooking director” from Mon Vieil Ami who wants to take a “global approach” to his job. On the one hand he wonders how a chef can cook without being there; on the other hand he says who cares who’s driving if the bus gets where you’re going. He notes that his meal for two was 100 E which is good for the area (Place Gaillon). He then goes on to discuss Bernard Pacaud, who is present at l’Ambrosie, where for about the same price (95 E) he and his co-diner shared the scallops with a truffle emulsion.

Tucked into the corner of this page, is a most interesting “ad” revealing that La Cerisaie and its chef, Cyril Lalane, received the grand jury prize of the Trophée Jacquart 2005.

Alert reader/member Paga pointed out that Parisien has been touting a different galette des rois on at least three different days this week: Tuesday it was Pain et Passion, Friday Vandermeersch and Saturday Jackie Milcent.

Sunday, the Journal de Dimanche featured its traditional “Affordable Restaurants liked by great Chefs;” asking Christian Bochaton of Les Beatilles where to go; his picks – l’Avant-Gout + l’Instant Gourmand in Levallois—Perret, just outside the peripherique {where I can never get anyone to go.}

In the JDD Femina magazine, Astrid T’Serclaes had a nifty idea/article, tagging along with legendary food critic Claude Lebey (of the Lebey big restaurant and little bistro guides) for a week’s eating. They went to Senderens bar upstairs, Fogon, l’Opportun, le Meurice, l’Ostreade, le Mathis & le Murano. Finally, for those interested in the traditions of the Three Kings and beans, there was an article entitled “Les Rois mages, Eve et la feve” available for a fee although the newspaper itself advertises its website but may take a while in posting articles.

The Le Fooding website had a “News” piece by Elvira Masson about Jean-Luc Poujauran who sold his eponymous bakery and now no longer sells to individuals (eg retail) but to companies or big customers - he can be contacted by telephone at 01.47.05.80.88, or you can eat at l’Ami Jean where his buddy Stéphane Jégo, does the desserts, or failing that get galettes at two places he recommends: Millet + Mulot.

The week ended with two articles in Bonjour Paris, one by John Talbott on “Eating at or near museums;” the other by Margaret Kemp wherein she does a review of “Best Of” places for 2005 in an article entitled: “Best of Buzz, Who is next?” She asks whether these places will last and proposes we run to them. They include: Senderens, O Sens, Chiberta, Dans le Noir, Les Fables de la Fontaine, l’Entredgeu, Pasco, Apicius, Dominique Bouchet, Hotel du Petit Moulin, La Table de Robuchon + Citrus Etoile.

The Winter Paris Voice had an article by Julie Baker {Ed Note: whose lists are always interesting} with her choices for “Seasons Eatings” that gave: Eugenie, L’Aero-Club de France, Le Club Restaurant de la Maison des Polytechniciens, Passiflore + Market.

January’s Where has several contributions by Alexander Lobrano featuring these established places - Le Relais du Parc, Chez Fred, La Poule au Pot, Bound + Chez Ly.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 9th, 2006

I missed the Washington Post article by Robert Camuto on the Caves Petrissans in the 17th, on Christmas day, but here it is FYI.

Monday-Tuesday A Nous Paris published its Best Of 2005, details can be found in Felice’s post here, but in summary the French ones were: Le Comptoir, Maxan, le Bistral, Louis Vins, Le Casier a vin + le Cave est Restaurant. In a side-bar, they list a number of happenings in 2006: Quai V, 25, quai de la Tournelle in the 5th, 01.46.34.50.99 has been acquired by the Besnard brothers and re-baptised as Les Rochons, see immediately below; Michel del Burgo will resurface at Jamin; Rougui Diu is the new chef at Petrossian, see the Le Monde article below; Philippe Cabale and Etienne Duc are opening Le Tartufo in the 1st; Sophie and Philippe have opened a bar-tapas-mezzes place called and at 17 Caulaincourt in the 18th; and the following have closed: Thym et Romarin, La Table d’Aude, La Table de Lucullus, l’Astree, Les Copains, Yvan and been replaced by (respectively): Gilda, La Ferrandaise, Le Jujubier, La Cave de Lanrezac, nothing yet + nothing yet.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope’s “C’est Nouveau” gave three hearts to Antoine Westermann’s newly acquired operation in Paris – Drouant, 16-18, place Gaillon in the 2nd, 01.42.65.15.16, closed weekends, where for 40-60€ he liked the veggie appetizer and the pork belly poached then grilled. He awarded two hearts to La Ferrandaise, 8, rue de Vaugirard in the 6th, 01.43.26.36.36, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday, where he had the roast farm chicken, veal chop and crepes with chocolate for about 30-40 €; the menus are 30 et 38 €. Then came to one-hearters: one Italian place and one Korean one Ciao Bella + Kil Son in the 5th, and Les Ronchons, 25, quai de la Tournelle in the 5th, 01.46.34.50.99, closed Saturday lunch and Tuesday (ergo, open Sunday) where he had some “honorable” foie gras, simple cod, ox tail with potatoes and Saint Nectaire for about 40 €.

The Dossier this week was quite different, featuring “tubes” of various ingredients; mayo, alcohol sorbets, condensed milk, harissa, peanuts, chestnut cream, anchovies,, tomatoes, mustard, wasabi, horseradish, used by Gilles Choukroun of l’Angl’Opera and at thew Delicabar, purchasable at Bon Marché, and given in recipes in Frederick Grasser-Herme’s book Delices d’inities.

In that vein Francois Simon bought a tube of ginger puree for 2.95 € at Bon Marché for his Hache Menu {and while a drole description, I’m not sure what value it has for readers/members.}

Wednesday as well, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban, devoted his major space, etc., to a review of Le Casque d’Or, Place Maurice-Chevalier, 1 rue d’Eupatoria in the 20th, 01.43.58.37.09, open for dinner except on Tuesdays and for lunch Saturdays and Sundays, with a formula at 12.50 E, a la carte 25-28 E, which he thought resembled one of those tiny sepia-colored cinematographic postcard places in the Auvergne with two banquettes and a bar serving good wine, Aubrac beef (chili con carne), black sausage, pork and cheese. His “Casserole” reviews were of a mezze-type Lebanese place – Tine in the 1st and a Korean one – Kil Son in the 5th but then he reviewed the La Rochelle derivative - Le Cou de la giraffe, 7, rue Paul-Baudry in the 8th, 01.56.88.29.55, closed Sundays and Monday noon with a formula at 28€, menus : 36€ at lunch and 49€ at dinner, a la carte : 55-60€. He was critical of the prices and service but thought the food (cuttlefish and artichokes with tomato, cod with beans and pineapple with vanilla butter) OK.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean-Claude Ribault had two articles in Le Monde, the first summarizing the food guides for 2006 and the second about two female chefs who are shaking up classic cuisine in Paris. One is Rougui Dia, a 30 year old Senegalese-French woman at Petrossian in the 7th, who had responsibility for their January 13th Orthodox Christmas dinner of 11 hour lamb, curried shrimp, rascasse and mango tarte tatin; the other, Sarah Péronnet of the Vieux Bistrot in the 4th near Notre Dame, who despite her training in Britain and Canada, returns to Lyonnais favorites such as boeuf bourguignon with caramelized onions, lardons and mushrooms, head cheese and quenelles. Then Thursday-Friday, Stéphane Davet had {yet} another article on Helene Darroze.

Thursday in this week’s Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski reviews one new place in Paris: Le Gorille Blanc, coordinates given, where he sampled the lentil salad with pigs’ feet and foie gras, the chipirons with risotto, partridge, chocolate tart and crème brulee along with the Beaujolais; follows a sushi bar and Thai place Kaiten + Blue Elephant; and declares Les Ambassadeurs + l’Opportun in good shape. As is his want, he also writes up Jean-François Julliat in Saint-Julien-Vocance in the Ardeche, La Petite Maison in Nice, the cheeses of François Chabert of La Ferme du Clot in Villard-Reculas and the onions of Roscoff in Finistère, for which he gives a recipe for milk soup with onions.

February’s American Saveur magazine had five of its 100 “favorite” things relating to France. They were most prominently two photos, a description and recipe from Le Timbre, the organic farm near Arles – La Chassagnette, Cointreau on the rocks, the red wines of Minervois La Liviniere and the cheese-shop, the Fromagerie Pascal Trotte in Paris.

On the Le Fooding website, Emmanuel Rubin also has a piece on Drouant, address above, which describes a beef salad, Italianate tarte, sots-l'y-laisse Oriental style and piquillos Mexican style, leeks vinaigrette, rabbit in jelly as well as daily specials (Monday = paleron; Sunday = Barbarie duck) but gives costs that are a bit pricier than Figaroscope – 40-90 €.

Saturday/Sunday, Le Figaro’s Francois Simon, Alexandra Bardini and Alexandra Michot listed places to go for business lunches in various categories. {Very loosely translated} they were (coordinates in the guidebooks and all in Paris unless otherwise noted):

Respect the calories

Apicius

Nicolas le Bec in Lyon

Le Pont aux Chats in Strasbourg

l’Abelia in Nantes

Find reasonable “menus”

Taillevent

Senderens

Grand Vefour

L’Astrance

Michel Sarran in Toulouse

Passedat in Marseille

La Laiterie in Lille

Chic snacks

Cojean

Secrets de Table in Strasbourg

Picnic en Ville in Clermont-Ferrand

Snack snobs

Hotel Costes

Market

Spoon

l’Artichaut in Montpellier

Chez Greg in Bordeaux

Eat anytime

l’Alsace

le Saint-Tropez in Toulouse

It doesn’t matter where

Ecole de Paris des métiers de la Table, 17, rue Jacques-Ibert, 17th, 01.44.09.12.16

Jules Verne

Wagon Bleu

Maison Baron Lefevre in Nantes

La Mirande in Avignon

A good idea: eat at hotel bars

Les Dukes au Westminster

Happy Food au Hi Hotel in Nice.

In his nearby “Croque Notes,” Francois Simon wrote an account of his meal in Bethune (near Lille) at le Bourreau where he dined for 294 Euros plus a 40 E taxi ride.

Finally, there was a new feature, “Tables in View,” that highlighted two places: Chez l’Ami Jean + le Transversal.

Sunday, the Journal de Dimanche again had a listing of affordable restaurants in Paris preferred by an established chef; this week, Yves Charles of La Maison Courtine, who named: l’Ourcine + le Bis de Severo.

The week ended with an article in Bonjour Paris by John Talbott on eating in “The hot new quarters.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 16th, 2006

Joe Ray in the Boston Globe had an article, passed on by Felice, on “Bistros with Buzz;” that is, gastro-bistros, including: Le Regalade, Le Comptoir, Senderens, Beurre Noisette, Chez Michel, l’Os a Moelle + la Cave a l’Os a Moelle.

Monday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard awarded 4/5 blocks to gave a rave review of Prunier, coordinates well-known, menu at 59 E, a la carte 47-140 E, under its new chef who serves classic oysters, crab raviolis and superb salmon. He also visited Sens, coordinates above, which he calls a bit too 8th-ish (eg lacking individuality) but lumps the Pourcels in with Ducasse, Robuchon and Troisgrois in the talent but not yet star category. The formula at lunch is 18 E, a la carte 30-74 E for gravelax’d tuna, pork and baba au rhum.

Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand filed his major piece on a “squat” in the 19th called La Generale, 10-14 rue du General Lasalle (no telephone, no credit cards, no menu, no prices) where the Japanese “foodista” Kaori cooks up free meals (apparently one can leave some cash if one wants to). She buys up the tired or well-priced products in nearby markets, cooks them up and serves more than 50 people in an abandoned building with 6000 square meters full of artists, etc., who may soon be evicted – on Friday nights when she wishes; never before 11:30 PM, sometimes not at all. {I won’t dwell on this phenomenon too long since I suspect not many members/readers will be trudging up to the 19th for a meal that may or may not happen, even if free.} In his “Casserole” section, he reviews Au Fils des Saisons, 6, rue des Fontaines du Temple in the 3rd, 0142.74.16.60, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, formula = 26 E, menu-carte 31 E for lavender-perfumed foie gras, chicken with black feet and homemade ice cream, an oyster place, Regis, 3, rue de Montfaucon in the 6th, 01.44.41.10.07 open 11 AM to 12 midnight, closed Mondays, formulas 21.50 – 25 Euros for good belons number 0 and an American-influenced “lunch brasserie” Jet Lag, 4 rue Montmartre in the 1st, 01.44.88.22.30 open every day, costing 15 E at lunch for the formula and 25 E a la carte for “world food,” such as chili con carne, onion soup and cheesecake as well as a not bad hamburger and “edible” frites.

Susan Herrmann Loomis had an article in the Winter issue of France magazine on oysters, that had a nifty description of oyster designations and sizes {that I had never seen before in one place.} She also mentioned several places to go in Paris for inventive versions of oysters: Guy Savoy, l’Astrance + Carre des Feuillants as well as the straight stuff: Garnier, La Cagouille + l’Uitr.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope’s “C’est Nouveau” gave two hearts to two hotel restaurants: the refurbished Relais du Parc in the Sofitel le Parc, 55-59 ave Raymond-Poincare in the 16th, 01.44.05.66.10, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Mondays, running about 75 with a lunch menu for 45 E, serving a tribute to Robuchon and Ducasse, eg pate en croute, apples Ducasse, Rouget Ducasse and pots of vanilla & chocolate Robuchon and the refurbished Diapason in the Terrass Hotel, 12-14, rue Joseph de Maistre in the 18th, 01.44.92.34.00, closed only Sunday dinner for 45 E (menus at lunch for 22 and 28 E,} serving pumpkin soup, beef and big fries and chocolate tart {for my take see here. Then came two one hearters: the pasta fast-food place Viagio and American-influenced “breakfast place” Jet Lag, coordinates above. Finally came a broken heart – La Cave Lanrezac in the 17th.

The Dossier this week covered that quintessential winter dish – pot au feu prepared several ways:

Classically

Chez La Vielle

Le Roi du Pot au Feu

Creatively

L’Avant Gout

Le Cinq Mars

Weekly

Brasserie Lipp

Caves Petrissans

Le Balzar

Professionally

Devez

Le Galvacher

In that spirit, Francois Simon went to the Meurice, coordinates well-known, and had the Big Pot au Feu Dodin Bouffant in a piece entitled elevator to the scaffold (presumably due to the 554 Euro bill for the 5-course special pot-au-feu). “Should one go?” he asked. “I don’t know what to say” he replies.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean-Claude Ribault had an article in Le Monde on the “Mutation of Cafes,” that discussed the changes in lighting and décor of bistrots, cafes and brasseries under the influence of the Costes and Blanc brothers and the Flo group, moving from formica and leatherette to wood and aluminum and corporate color schemes. {I’ll let you read the details.} About the only thing he says about the food served is that it tends towards “minceur” with hardly anything on the plate.

Thursday, Gilles Pudlowski does his usual thing in Le Point with a mixture of recipes (Sophie Bise of Pere Bise’s macaroni with oysters and beaufort), products (gruyere from Beaufort, cider from Rennes), restaurants in the hinterland (Guillaume Brahimi, the French “wonderboy,” at Guillaume at Bennelong in Sydney, Australia and Yves Tou at Le Ruban bleu a diet restaurant and La Salle à manger a regular one, in the Miramar at Port-Crouesty, Arzon, in the Morbihan,) and those in/around Paris: a suburban bistrot of love, Le Pouilly-Reuilly, 68, rue A.-Joineau in Le Pré-Saint-Gervais, 01.48.45.14.59, with a menu at 25 E, a la carte 55, taken over by Christian Millet, son of the famous pastry-chef, serving eggs “couilles d'âne, {OK, you look it up,} pigs’ feet and an entire veal kidney, a French fast-food place on the rue de Seine in the Buci area of the 6th, Da Rosa, two places in good shape - the Atelier de Joel Robuchon + Brasserie de Lutetia, and one in trouble – the two Costes brothers’ places - Indiana Café, in the 9th and 14th.

Friday, Jean-Louis Galesne in Les Echos talked of several chefs from the provinces who had opened places in Paris to obtain their “consecreation.” The were the Pourcel Brothers, Antoine Westermann, Grégory Coutanceau, Henry Baché who have opened (respectively Sens, Mon Vieil Ami + Drouant, le Cou de la Girafe + Steak & Lobster.)

On the Le Fooding website, Alexandre Cammas wrote a nice piece on Ripaille coordinates given above.

In his “Croque Notes,” Francois Simon wrote Saturday/Sunday, in Le Figaro about a restaurant in Paris a reader, Valérie M. told him about – l'Amuse Gueule, 10, bd Morland in the 4th, 01.44.59.85.51-saying it was a true bistro with the charm of yesteryears, and he agrees thoroughly, liking the superb meat but finding the fries a bit soft inside (no big deal though).

Sunday’s NYT Travel Section had an article by Mark Bittman on well-known Parisian chefs opening “more casual” places, that included: Gaya, Le Comptoir, Mon Viel Ami + Benoit coordinates for all given before.

The week ended with an article in Bonjour Paris by Margaret Kemp on Ripaille, coordinates already given and how it got its name as well as the upscale Chinese place Zen Garden in the 8th and another by John Talbott on eating and culture in the 1st and 13th arrondissements in a monthly feature called “The hot new quarters.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited January 22, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 23rd, 2006

Monday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks to Drouant, coordinates above, where he loved the tapas and scallops but felt the rest, especially the pig’s breast, lacked “rhythm.” Philippe Toinard also awarded 3/5 blocks to Lena et Mimile, 32, rue Tournefort in the 5th, 01.47.07.72.47, formulas at 15 & 21 E at lunch, menu 39 E (with wine & coffee), closed Sundays, where he had the bourgeois bistrot fare of eggs en meurette, lamb stew, raviolis and pears in wine, as well as being awed by the chariot of desserts.

Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand filed his major piece on Drouant as well, describing the food as French-tapas with a world food twist, albeit pricey (25 E for the four little plates, 30 E for the pork) but he had the best sauce Bernaise he’s ever had with his Cote de Boeuf. The “Casserole” restaurants, reviewed by three different reviewers were the venerable L’Escargot Montorgueil {which I couldn’t figure out why it was being reviewed}, a merguez-frozen frites “potato bar” Dede la Frite in the 2nd and a sandwich/bagel, “finger-food,” fast-food place 46 Avenue in the 8th.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope’s “C’est Nouveau” gave two hearts to two Italian places: Il Cortile + La Pizzetta in the 1st and 9th respectively and one heart each to: the mezze Lebanese Tine II in the 1st, the light-food-serving resto-epicerie Chacha in Neuilly on the Ile de Jatte and the Basque-esque Pena Festayre in the 19th.

The Dossier Wednesday concerned “Politicians’ Favorite Places:” and listed three major categories {I’ll list some of the politicians who frequent them in case readers want to rub shoulders/elbows with them}:

Around the Assembly

Tante Marguerite

Auguste DSK, Debre, Clement, Barnier + Fillon

L’Arpege

Chez Francoise

L’Esplanade Hollande/Royal, Ferry, DSK, Borloo, Sarkozy

Thoumieux Fabius, Rocard

La Maison de l’Amerique Latine

Le Divellec

Ferme Saint-Simon

Around the Senate

Au Bon Saint-Pourcain

Au Gourmand

La Mediterranee Pasqua

La Marlotte Madelin, Hollande

La Cigale Recamier

Le Dome

La Coupole Aubry, Hue, Emmanuelli, Toubon

La Closerie des Lilas

Lipp Jospin, Pasqua, Glavany, Lang, Vedrine

Hoofing it

La Manufacture

Les Colonnes Sarkozy

Foc Ly

La Truffe Noir Attali, Lang

Le Moulin a Vent Tiberi

Les Ormes Balladur, Devedjian

The Mitterrand haunts

L’Assiette

La Cagouille

La Gauloise

Le Pichet

D’Chez Eux

Le Procope

Lipp

Chez Dominique

Le Divellec

Francois Simon went to L’Assiette, 181, rue du Château in the 14th, 01.43.22.64.86, open only at night except for Saturday and Sundays for lunch, closed Mondays, one of Mitterrand’s favorites, where Simon had consommé, a gateau landaise and a paleron of beef as well as a 40 E bottle of wine and his bill was 145 E for two but as of February the menu, still 50 E, now includes wine. He suggests one go despite some pulling of punches in his review.

{I’m sure there have been others, but I recently saw} a review by Moira Hodgson in the January 7th, 2006 issue of the WSJ of the English translation of Herve This’s book Molecular Gastronomy, Columbia University Press, 377 pages, $29.95.

Thursday, Jean-Louis Petitrenaud in l’Express reviewed Steak & Lobster, coordinates given before, where he admired the good well-priced wine list and champagne, simple lobster a la plancha, cold with mayo (American style, he says,) beef and fries; also noting that children are welcome – cost = menu of 24 E and a la carte 60 E. He also recommends the Hotel de France in Montceau-les-Mines.

Thursday, Gilles Pudlowski Le Point with a Thursday, in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski offered a grab bag of items: the new places in Paris he liked were: Carte Blanche, coordinates above, where he loved the Basque cold-cuts and scallop carpaccio; Pères et Filles, 81, rue de Seine in the 6th, 01.43.25.00.28 where a la carte is about 45 E for Royan raviolis, cod, veal and pineapple crumble; and the “chic” tea salon Gilda, 73 bis, ave Niel in the 17th, 01.42.27.42.20, a la carte : 25 E for Nordic tartines, tuna, ice cream and sorbets and house pastries. The restaurants he pronounces in good shape are Marius & Janette + La Coupole in the city and La Tourte de Besse in Besse-en-Oisans, La Chassagnette near Arles and the “little sister” of Beaumaniere – La Cabro d’Or in Les Baux-de-Provence. In addition, he wrote about smoked garlic from Arleux near Douai and gave a recipe of soup made with it.

{Ah yes, it’s the time for what the French call “winter sports” and} Jean-Louis Galesne reviewed places in the Vosges (Gérardmer) Friday for Les Echos singling out: L’Assiette du Coq a l’Ane, Le Toit du Lac, Le Manoir du Lac, Le Chalet Fleuri, Chalet-Hotel Le Collet + L’Auberge du Val Joli.

Friday in Liberation, in an article entitled “Tomorrow the daubes…,” Vincent Noce reviewed two bistrots in the suburbs he says have successfully brought back to life several classic dishes of the Midi: Granterroirs, 27, rue Carnot in Levallois, 01.41.34.39.70, menus at 23 and 34 E (wine and coffee included) and La Tortue, 22, rue Dagobert, 92110 Clichy, 01.55.90.62.32, menu at 19.50 E, closed evenings and on weekends. He describes the former as occupying a vast space where Jean-François Gimenez and Stéphane Sarrut provide bistro fare made with good products at reasonable prices; he serves Lyon sausage, salads, cassoulet and daube. At the latter, they present well made, simple cuisine, such as a tartlette of vegetables, sausage with pureed peas and a well grilled andouillette with fries, but in a smoky setting with a somewhat ungenerous welcome.

Le Figaro’s weekend edition had a big spread on Chinese restaurants in celebration of the Chinese New Year. {I’ll spare you the details of the description of the bases of Chinese food, spices, etc.} Their 5 restaurant recommendations are: Chen, Tong Yen, Fontaine d’Or, Chez Vong + La Mer de Chine. In addition there was a “Confidential” piece on the red Michelin saying that it would elevate Olivier Roellinger of Cancale to three stars, la Table de Joel Robuchon to two stars and l’Atelier to one. Then, there were two small notes; that Jamin will close February 7th and reopened under TV-star Babette as a Creole place; and that the Lebey Bistrot book (the smaller of the two) had crowned La Ferrandaise with the top prize for its quality {For my take on it see my post next week}. In his “Croque Notes,” Francois Simon wrote, about how hard it was to be a snob, largely focusing on a 116 E meal at Market where he was treated like a jerk for ordering a carafe of tap water (actually what he wrote was that the waiter treated him as if he had tried to settle the bill with Metro tickets), the toast for the entrée never arrived and the main was banal. To top it off, Simon was dining with a celebrity, not Simon he assures us, and when the staff figured that out, they brought three desserts. I missed recounting an article in last week’s weekend edition by Alexandra Michot and Francois Simon that rated chain restaurants as follows:

4 plates/etc: Hippopotamus

3 plates/etc: Brioche Doree + Flunch

2 plates/etc: Cafeteria Casino, Pizza del Arte, Bistrot Romain, MacDonalds + Buffalo Grill

1 plate/etc: Oh! Poivrier! + Quick

January’s Bon Appetit has a huge photo and article by Dorie Greenspan on Yves Camdebode and Le Comptoir.

February’s Gourmet had a blurb on the “word of mouth bistro of the moment” Le Bistral, coordinates above, as well as a box on Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s favorite places on the road and in Paris. They included: L’Astrance, L’Arpege + Le Bristol.

Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris Margaret Kemp had a review of Antoine Westerman’s new outpost in Paris Drouant, coordinates above and John Talbott had an article entitled Eating in Cantines.

David Rosengarten, in the December issue of The Rosengarten Report says that his meal at Les Ambassadeurs was the best he had anywhere in 2005. He also raved about two meals outside Paris: at La Chapelle St-Martin in Limoges and l’Amphitryon in Toulouse.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited by John Talbott to correct mistaken date.

Edited February 14, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 30th, 2006

The week began with A Nous Paris’s takes on two new places: 2/5 blocks to Les Ronchons, coordinates given before, where the food was from another era – too heavy, fatty and rough; the only saving grace was the wine and 3/5 to Namiki, 46, rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs in the 1st, 01.42.60.25.54, open Tuesday to Saturday, lunch formula at 15 E, dinner a la carte about 45 E, which advertises itself as presenting “Zen food a la francaise,” and had some Japanese dishes, some fusion ones (terrine with Japanese ingredients) and some French ones (tarte tatin). In addition, the side-bar on the page announced the availability by the Atelier des Chefs folks of cooking kits for meals for two available at Monoprix Ternes and Daily Monop’ de Paris. Finally, there was another reference to the venerable bistrot Chez Fred in the 17th, celebrating its 60th birthday.

Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est nouveau” in Figaroscope on Wednesday awarded 3 hearts to Le 144 Petrossian, 18, bd de Latour Maubourg in the 7th, 01.44.11.32.32, closed Sunday and Monday, whose black female chef has been getting great press for her 35 E menu at lunch and 45 E one at dinner (a la carte 60-90 E) that ranges from borsht to caviar and piroges to sorbets. {For my view see my review next week.} He also gave two hearts to the second resto of La Robe et le Palais, a wineshop-deli La Garde Robe, 41, rue de l’Arbre Sec in the 1st, 01.49.26.90.60, open every day costing about 20 E for charcuterie and cheese (lunch formula = 8.5 E and Cancale oysters 1 E apiece.) Then there were two one-hearters - Ivory, 74, rue des Archives in the 3rd, 01.42.41.21.96, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, costing about 30 E with 16 and 20 E lunch menus for food described as between Zen and baroque, offering salmon rillettes, veal goulash and chocolate mousse (all “not bad”) and a resto-bar, Habemus Papam, coordinates given before, which despite the Italianate/white smoke/Vaticanate reference is a French place and serves such fare as coco-lemon soup, shrimp with spices and an entrecote for about 35 E (lunch formula is 14 E.). The final place, Sensi in the 8th got a broken plate.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” gave a series of places serving black food:

Black rice from cuttlefish ink Rosimar

Mbongo Tchobi Eb’n Lodge

Black Tea 1728

Black Truffles Un Jour a Peyrassol

Black Coffee Verlet

Caviar Prunier, Petrossian, Caviar Kaspia + Maison du Caviar

Black Olives Da Rosa

Sea Urchins and Mussels Wepler

Black SausageChez Benoit

Black Mushrooms & Shrimp Imperial Choisy

100% Dark Dans le Noir

Francois Simon’s “Hache Menu” dealt with Jules Verne, coordinates well-known, whose décor is black, albeit now a bit tired. Two persons had water, mains and a shared dessert (no wine or entrees) for 154 Euros which even he thought was a bit pricey.

Wednesdays, while Sebastien Demorand is on leave, several others will be doing the reviews in Zurban. This week, Bruno Verjus, author of Tous en Cuisine, wrote up the long-standing (20 years) but recently discovered (by the critics) resto-bistro Le Baratin, 3, rue Jouye-Rouve in the 20th, 01.43.49.39.70, open from Tuesday lunch to Saturday night (but not serving Saturday lunch), lunch menu = 14 E, a la carte in the evening about 28-32 E, where he loved all the food, finding the entrees “precise, correctly-made and exciting.” {For my take, I’ll post next week.} Verjus’ “Restos a la Casserole” were two well-known places: Chez Michel in the 10th and l’Ecallier du Bistrot in the 11th as well as a fish store Comptoir Oceanique in the 14th.

Meanwhile, Sebastien Demorand, writing in Regal, did a piece on Frederic Crochet of Mon Viel Ami with a recipe for guinea hen with Jerusalem artichokes and potatoes.

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean-Claude Ribaut wrote two pieces, one about “bistrots-cantines” that offer an honest alternative to Anglo-American fast-food. I doubt any of our members/readers will avail themselves of such, but if you’re on the hoof and want a quick salad or sandwich, he suggests you try Cojean in the 9th or Ante Prime in the 8th. The second article concerns Air France’s First Class food and wine, which since December, has used Guy Martin, of Le Grand Véfour and Olivier Poussier, best sommelier in the World in 2000 as consultants to pep-up the fare.

L’Express this week had a pull out supplement on bistros in and outside Paris authored by nine critics of whom Emmanuel Rubin and Jerome Berger are probably the best known. In Paris and the Ile de France they included: the Café Constant, Les Papilles, Le Comptoir, Les Gamelles au Plafond in Suresnes, the Café des Musees, Aux Lyonnais, Mon Viel Ami, Le Pre Verre, L’Ami Jean, L’Ourcine, L’Avant-Gout, Georgette, Chez Jean, L’Affriole, La Cave est Restaurant in Montreuil Sous Bois, Le Regalade, Le Beurre Noisette, Le Troquet, L’Os a Moelle, L’Epi Dupin, L’Ami Marcel, Carte Blanche, Le Repaire de Cartouche, Le Villaret, Le Temps au Temps, Thierry Burlot, L’Abadache, L’Entredgeu + Le Baratin. Of interest as well was an article (the second in as many weeks), in which Jean-Luc Petitrenaud revisits Le Pouilly-Reuilly in le Pre St Gervais, just outside the perpherique, where Christian Millet has recently taken over.

Thursday in Le Point,Gilles Pudlowski provided his usual array of food items. He likes Reuan Thai in the 11th; says two places are holding up: Mori Venice Bar + Le Train Bleu in the 2nd and 12th respectively; and says one place – the pizza/pasta serving Bartolo in the 6th, is in trouble. Outside Paris he recommends El Castell de Ciutat in La Sue d’Urgell in Catalonia, Le Fin Gourmet in Les Deux-Alpes, La Bastide Saint-Antoine in Grasse and Le Bistrot de la Tranchée in Tours. He also talks of truffles from Alba (Italy) and gives a recipe for risotto with white truffles.

Thursday, the freebie ParuVendu had a {strange in my opinion} list of “Best Restaurants” in their editors’ opinion. They were: L’Auberge Nicolas Flamel, L’Orenoc, Le Barlotti, Bound, Le Galvacher + L’Azalee.

Friday, in Les Echos, Jean-Louis Galesne devoted his space to four Italian places in Paris: Mori Venice Bar, Il Cortile, l’Osteria + La Baracola in the 2nd, 1st, 4th and 11th respectively.

I am indebted to eGullet member Fresh_a who pointed me toward an English publication and its website GoGoParis that has interviews and lists of the “ten best” each month; this month the top place on the website is Le Transversal and the others featured on the hard-copy were: Le Comptoir, Le Temps au Temps + l’Alavi. I missed the December issue but since it concerns Yves Camdeborde, a great subject on this Forum, I thought I’d list his favorite restaurants: the great places where he eats at least once a year le Bristol, le Crillon + le Violin d’Ingres and then the relaxed, reasonably-priced ones: l’Ardoise, l’Ami Jean, Chez Michel, Repaire de Cartouche, l’Ourcine, Cave des Papilles, l’Os a Moelle + le Baratin

The February Where featured many new or moderately new places: Alexander Lobrano calls the Pur’Grill in the Park Hyatt Vendome one of the most interesting restaurants in town (dinner only); three places he suggests are especially appropriate for Valentine’s Day – le Meurice, Le Vieux Bistro + Caviar Kaspia; two relatively new bistrots: La Ferrandaise + Le Square; and Drouant, as has been mentioned before, that has been taken under Antoine Westerman and Antony Clemot’s (ex-Viel Ami) wings.

I do too little digesting of wine news but will pass this on: Jancis Robinson in this weekend’s FT writes about the 2004 Burgundies suggesting you drink them now but not stock up too much since the 2005’s are supposed to turn out so well.

In his “Croque Notes” Saturday/Sunday, in Le Figaro, Francois Simon wrote about le Petit Comptoir in Angers. Also, the Figaro team this week assessed risotto in Paris. The top six places serving this difficult-to-make dish were: Carpaccio, l’Osteria, Il Gusto Sardo, Stresa, I Golisi + Dell’Orto. Finally, as has already been reported in this space, Francois Simon in Madame Figaro announced star-elevations in the forthcoming Michelin Red Guide for France, which can be expected for Olivier Roellinger and doubly for Joël Robuchon.

Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had a review of Antoine Westerman’s new outpost in Paris, Drouant, coordinates above, and John Talbott had an article entitled Eating in Cantines.

Sunday, in the JDD, Michel Rochedy of Coucheval’s Le Chabichou, chose Le Pouilly-Reuilly + Sormani as his two favorite Parisian good quality-price places. In addition, Astrid de T’Serclaes, in JDD’s Femina supplement recommended two foreign restos - the Spanish Fogon and the Italian Fuxia, coordinates already given.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of February 6th, 2006

Monday, Felice found the elusive A Nous Paris that devoted an entire page to Jerome Berger’s tribute to the first Senegalese-French woman chief (not sous) chef in France, Rougui Dia of Le 144 Chez Petrossian aka Petrossian aka Le 144, 18, bvd de la Tour Maubourg in the 7th, 01.44.11.32.32. {So much has and will be written about her, I’ll just summarize that} Berger especially liked her use of spices and preparations from all over the world {as did I, as I will report next week.} In addition, her favorite place to eat on days-off is Les Magnolias in Le Perreux sur Marne.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est Nouveau” awarded 4/4 hearts to the Italian place Mori Venice Bar in the 2nd, 2/4 hearts to l’Escale, 71, ave Paul Doumer in the 16th, 01.45.04.12.81, closed Mondays, where the chef (Gregory Coutanceau) from Le Cou de la Girafe revived the space ex-Bigorneau with lots of well-made fish dishes for about 40 E, there’s also a lunch formula for 28 E; one heart each went to a Japanese-French fusion place, Namiki, coordinates given before, in the 1st and tartine-New York bagel-mousse place DS Café, 25 ave Niel in the 17th, 01.40.55.02.02, open everyday for about 15-20 E and a broken heart to PM Café in the 4th; Rubin says PM stands for profondement mauvais (profoundly bad.)

Their “Dossier” was devoted to Valentine’s Day dinner places:

Less than 100 E

Le Pavillion

Hotel de Sers

Restaurant W

Le Pluvinel

La Chinoiserie

From 100-140 E

Le Jardin d’Hiver

Les Muses

L’Orenoc

La Table du Lancaster

Senso

From 150-200 E

Le Celedon

Le Jardin

More than 200 E

l’Espadon

Le Bristol

Les Ambassadeurs

Others at various prices

Cuba Compagnie Café

Le Galvacher

Sens

L’Espadon Bleu

Le Mandala Ray

Le Maceo

La Mezzanine de l’Alcazar

Le Chene Vert

Le 144 Petrossion

Le Copenhague

Francois Simon’s “Hache Menu” used the occasion to visit the Lounge Daniel, 8 rue Frederic Bastiat in the 8th, 01.42.56.17.00 where he paid 115 E for dinner in an empty dining room in a place with a “calamitous” name; they had wanted the pigeon but they were out so he had a Roquefort soufflé, lamb and gourmandizes; Should one go St Valentine’s, No!; Another day, Yes!

Zurban’s temporary food critic, Bruno Verjus, revisited l’Arpege, coordinates well known, and found it meriting its three stars. His “casserole” places included the second resto of Severo, this a largely fish-restaurant, the Bis de Severo, 16, rue des Plantes in 14th, 01.40.44.73.09, open Tuesday to Saturday night, menus at lunch 18-22 E, in the evening a la carte is about 35 E, where he admired the lieu, bar, scallops, red tuna, duck and pigeon; Autour d’un verre, 21 rue de Trevise in the 9th, 01.48.24.43.74, open for lunch Monday to Friday and dinner Tuesday to Saturday, lunch menu at 12 E, dinner 15-20 E serving leg of lamb, wines straight from the vintner; and a tea shop La Maison des Trois Thes in the 5th.

Thursday Jean-Luc Petitrenaud wrote up Au Vieux Comptoir, 17, rue des Lavandieres Ste Opportune in the 1st, 01.45.08.53.08, menu = 18 Euros, which he likes for its wines, good products (cheese and ham), terrine of beef and entrecote with fresh frites or gratinated potatoes.

Wednesday-Thursday Jean-Claude Ribaut mentioned one restaurant buried in articles on Montrachet – the Hotel du Montrachet in Puligny-Montracet.

In Thursday’s Le Point Gilles Pudlowski saluted Drouant and Antoine Westerman and Anthony Clémot, calling what they’ve done a “revolution;” suggests “following” Fuxia, an Italian epicerie in the 9th, and says Park Hyatt Vendome + Chen are in good shape but the Café de Commerce is in trouble {Cynical and angry editorial note: no kidding?,} and in addition he likes Rasoi Vineet Bhatia in London, L'Envers du décor in Saint-Emilion and Comme chez soi in Cannes as well as the special oranges to be had at Nathalie Lalonde in Nancy and a recipe thereof.

Friday, in Les Echos, Jean-Louis Galesne devoted his space to four Italian places in Paris: Mori Venice Bar, Il Cortile, l’Osteria + La Baracola in the 2nd, 1st, 4th and 11th respectively.

Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” in Saturday-Sunday’s Figaro critiqued the Michelin Red Guide’s promotions and non-promotions, at least as leaked to Liberation + Figaro. He says giving Olivier Roellinger of Cancale a third star now (at age 51) is like giving soccer shoes to a footballer who is over the hill. However he applauds rewarding Tateru Yoshino of Stella Maris and is puzzled by the lowered starring of Alain Senderens as if by switching to paper-napkins, he had suddenly lost his talent. He says, that with Michelin, one must be patient; perhaps in 7-8 years they reward Yves Camdeborde’s Le Comptoir and Isami and Paul Bertwith stars. He does credit Michelin with helping find reasonably priced places (the Bob Gourmands – aka smiley faces) especially in the hinterlands. He also had an article called “A New Atlas of Gastronomy,” in which he drew a chart with two axes: Ethnic-Terroir North-South and Tradition-Futurism West-East. The Ducassians and Robuchonistes are smack in the center; Ethnic chic chefs are between Ethnic and Tradition; Gourmet Bistros, Micheliners, Old School, Best cook and workers of France and Slow food chefs between Tradition and Terroir; Neo-pures between Terroir and Futurism and Singulars, Fooding, Generation C, Schoolchildren food and the Molecular folks between Ethnic and Futurism. He then listed the stars in 15 categories, as follows:

Gourmet Bistrots

Yves Camdeborde at Le Comptoir

Thiery Breton at Chez Michel

Ducassians

Didier Elena at Les Crayeres in Reims

Franck Cerutti at Louis XV in Monte Carlo

Ethic chic

Thiou

Fooding

La Famille and soon Chateaubriand under Frederic Peneau and Inaki Aizpitare

Generation C

David Zuddas at Prenois

Pascal Barbot at l’Astrance

Thierry Marx at Cordellian Bage

Old school

Gerard Besson

Paul Bocuse

Best cooks in France

Michel Blanchet in Maison-Lafitte

Jean Bardet in Tours

Best workers (MOF) in France

Philippe Legendre at Le Cinq

Micheliners

boring food providers, not named to avoid retaliation

Molecular biologists

Jacques Decoret in Vichy

Marc Veyrat in Megeve

Neo-simplists

Michel Guerard in Eugenie les Bains

Michel Bras at Laguiole

Schoolchildren’s food (kid brothers of “le fooding”)

Refectoire

Transvзrsal

Robuchonistes

Antoine Hernandez at the Atelier Robuchon

Frederic Anton at Pre Catalan

Singular folks

Pierre Gagnaire

Oliver Roellinger in Cancale

Slow foodies

Marco Tonazzi at I Golosi

At page’s bottom are several other items: the announcement about the Omnivore event in Le Havre (already noted by Felice in our Events Calendar) open to the public, info at www.omnivore.fr; the departure of Toni Vianello of l’Osteria for Cap-Vert; and the opening end of April 2006, of some beds at Jean-Georges Klein’s three-star place north of Strasbourg.

Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris’s Valentine’s edition, Margaret Kemp had an article entitled “All you need is love Buzz” on where to eat on Valentine’s Day and John Talbott had an article entitled The 10 most romantic places in Parisn that listed three restaurants.

Sunday, in the JDD, Michel Sarran of the eponymous resto in Toulouse, recommended as his reasonably-priced favorites in Paris: l’AOC + Les Papilles. In addition, Astrid de T’Serclaes, in JDD’s Femina supplement recommended a bistrot and “tea-room,” respectively Goupil + Gilda.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited February 17, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of February 13th, 2006

Monday, A Nous Paris reviewed two restos and gave each 3/5 blocks – l’Escale in the 16th, coordinates given last week, where they liked everything (scallops, rougets, wine) but the too dry dessert waffle, and Le Fin Gourmet, 42, rue St-Louis en Ile in the 4th, 01.43.26.79.27, closed Monday and Tuesday for lunch where they liked the raviolis of mushrooms, duck and tarte tatin and only regretted the short wine list {for my dissenting view see here.}

On Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est Nouveau” awarded 2 hearts to four places. The lead resto and picture, etc was to the Table d’Hote Caroll Sinclair, 8, rue de Beaujolais in the 1st, 01.42.61.25.30, open every day until one in the morning, menu = 28 E, a la carte 35-40 with a very ambivalent review (out of lots of dishes the day he went, she can be good or bad, depending - you are forewarned he says) of marinated sardines, beef tartare & a true fondant of chocolate. The second is an Italian place l’Osteria in the 4th and the third a bistrot popu-bobo serving “natural cuisine” La Table de Claire, 30, rue Emile Lepeu in the 11th, closed Sundays, Mondays & Tuesdays where he had scallops & endives, rumsteak and a crème café with cardamom – lunch formula=13E, lunch menu=16E and a la carte=30-35 E. The fourth place is a fish house taken over by Rostang Sr and fille Jarrasse, 4, av de Madrid in Neuilly, 01.46.24.07.56, costing 45-60 E for decorticated crab, tuna steak half-raw half-cooked, encornets and nut soufflé. The one hearter was another Italian place Mosca Libre in the 9th.

The food editors’ Dossier this week is entitled something like “Dishes that pick you up,” and includes:

Stuffed cabbage at Le Florimond

Beef and mashed at Au Petit Victor Hugo

Boiled beef at Moissonier

Beef salad at Les Gourmets des Ternes

Cod Cakes at Ze Kitchen Galerie

Rockfish soup at Le Sud

Crustacean juice/soup at l’Ampere

Panettone pudding Casa Vigata

French bread at Les Enfants Rouges

And as usual, François Simon goes for one of these, in this case a parmentier at Natacha for 71.50 E for two with some Portuguese wine.

Wednesday as well, another substitute in Zurban, Pierrick Jegu, gave the major space over to a review of the Table de Claire, coordinates above, where he liked the mackerel and scallop starters, confited lamb and beef cheek mains and blanc-manger and fruit compote. Everything went well but it was not the revelation of the year. In the “Casseroles” section he reviewed three foreign or at least fusion places; the Viet-French Les Elles in the 4th, the Thai Café in the 10th and an Italian place Croccante in the 15th.

Thursday, Jean-Louis Petitrenaud wrote up Drouant, reminding us it’s open 7/7 and Restaurant Greuz in Tournus.

In Thursday’s Le Point Gilles Pudlowski spends a lot of time dealing with where he ate in NYC, e.g. at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s 8th place as well as Thomas Keller and Nori Sugie’s places; talks of the best potatoes (giving a recipe) in the world from Noirmoutier; Le Mas Candille in Mougins; and then gives his opinion of restos in Paris and how they’re doing. He says: one should follow (e.g. eat at) the recently rejuvenated L'Escargot Montorgueil, that Vong + l’Argenteuil are in good shape, but that Diapason is in trouble due to a banal Caesar salad, overcooked magret and dry chicken.

In Thursday-Friday’s Le Monde, Jean-Claude Ribaut has two articles. The first was about the Omnivore Food Festival (initiated by Luc Dubanchet & Laurent Séminel and featuring Generation C’s champion, Gilles Choukroun,) in Le Havre the 20 and 21 February, already mentioned by Felice in a thread and in the pinned calendar. About the only thing he mentions of note is that this may heat up the dispute between old and new styles of cuisine in France. The second article concerns an exhibition in the basement of Bon Marche on “Beauty and Food” that runs until March 18th. With a “beauty bar,” omega 3 drinks, and your choice of Fidji, Saint-Georges or Chateldon water at 3,30 euros a bottle of 50 centiliters! {the ! at the end is Ribaut's.}

In Friday’s Les Echos, Jean-Louis Galesne wrote an article on fish stew/soup places only one of which Jarrasse, coordinates above, is new (at least newly acquired by the Rostangs) and whose lotte and encornet bourride he finds “delectable.” The other five he mentions are in the guidebooks. He found that Marius et Jeannette doesn’t always have its bouillabaisse on the menu, that La Cagouille uses a modified recipe, that Dessirier (Rostang’s fish brasserie) overcooked the fish therein, that Tiara Kurihara serves his Dieppe version only on Wednesdays and that Graindorge serves the waterzooi type.

Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” in Saturday-Sunday’s Figaro says that everybody’s talking about le Petit Comptoir in Angers run by a young couple, he ex of Taillevent.

Sunday’s New York Times Travel Section had an article on visiting Paris with children. In addition to suggestions about Culture, Shopping, Hotels, etc., Jennifer Conlin recommended Le Café du Marche, Café Marly + Le Relais de l’Entrecote as places to eat respectively for their sidewalk setting, cheeseburgers and steak/frites. {I realize I don’t deal with the DOM-TOM’s much, but I should mention that} Paul Schneider, in the February 5th NYT had a side-bar on Guadeloupe that mentioned La Roulotte, Les Pieds dans l’Eau + Café Iguana.

Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott had an article entitled The New Hot Quarters: the 2nd and 13th.

This week in TimeOut’s web version, they herald Le Verre Luisant, 64, rue de la Verrerie in the 4th, 01.42.72.67.63 open 7/7, a “vintage” bistro with affordable food (lunch menu 14.90, average 25 E) serving free range chicken, beef, croques, soup, pasta and salads.

In the magazine Voyages d’Affaires, they mentioned three trendy places: Sens, Café de la Paix + Chiberta.

The March Conde Naste Traveller had an article on “10 Classic” hamlets, one of which St-Cinq Lapopie featured Auberge du Sombral + l’Oustal to eat at.

In Heather Stimmler’s Secrets of Paris enewsletter, she notes that Man Ray has changed it’s name to Mandalay.

Rosa Jackson, Paris Notes restaurant critic, went to two venerable (eg coordinates in the guidebooks and/or above) but rejuvenated restaurants: Chez Dumonet – Josephine where she liked herring, foie gras, boeuf bourguignon, steak tartare, chateaubriand, cassoulet, sea bream and apple tart (NB wines run 50-60E) and Benoit where she had the cepes, marinated salmon, frogs’ legs, and what may be the best cassoulet in town. In addition, Maisie Wilhelm has an article on “Hot Hot Chocolate” that mentions Steiger, the Crillon, le Bar de l’Entracte, A Priori The + La Charlotte de l’Ile.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of February 20th, 2006

Monday, A Nous Paris had an article on the new restos under 30 E. The article starts out by saying that if you call for reservations and they are full at l’Ami Jean, l’Abadache, Le Temps au Temps, La Cerisaie + l’Ami Marcel, clearly their favorite reasonable places {and except for l’Ami Marcel, I couldn’t agree more}, what do you do. It suggests you then call La Ferrandaise, Ripaille, le Bis de Severo + La Table de Claire, coordinates given and food described before, or Les Symples de l’Os a Moelle, 18, av de la Republique, Issy-les-Moulineaux, 01.41.08.02.52, formula at 22 E, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, serving lots of veggies, terrines and “terroir” food. It gives all 3/5 blocks except La Table de Claire, which it also calls in a side-bar, “a joy.”

{Like Macys and Gimbels, or Time + Newsweek’s cover stories, both Figaroscope + Zurban have articles on restos under 30 Euros too.} Colette Monsat is the senior author of the “Dossier,” that is broken down into “New Places” and “Sure Values” (all coordinates either given before or in the guidebooks):

New

Le Bis du Severo

Les Symples de l’Os a Moelle

La Ferrandaise

Miss Betsey

Carpediem

Carte Blanche

Les Fils de la Ferme

Sure values

Au Fils des Saisons

Beurre Noisette

Frugier

Le Bistral

Fish La Boissonnerie

And of course, Francois Simon gets in on the affordable fun with a review of the Mesturet where he suggests one goes for the two formulas at 19 or 25 E with a pitcher of wine for 14,50; addition thus= 67.50 E, for grilled stuffed eggplant, a classic blanquette of veal and a compote of bananas and apples.

Finally, we go to Zurban’s take on restos under 30 E. This week they published a whole supplement that Felice kindly supplied to me. It included (again coordinates have either been given or are in the guidebooks): Les Enfants Rouges, Les Papilles, Le Pre Verre, Le Villaret, Louis Vins, Le Timbre, Le Bistrot Paul Bert, l’Avant Gout, La Ferrandaise, l’Ami Jean, La Cerisaie, Le Temps Au Temps, La Regalade, La Cave de l’Os a Moelle, La Boulangerie, Le Baratin + La Cave est Restaurant.

Also in this week’s Zurban, guest critic Pierrick Jegu (author of Paris en Bouteilles, Parigramme, 5,70 E) devoted the major space to a review of Les Symples coordinates above (and formerly known as Thevier) where he liked the price, the wine selection, the terrines a la table d’hote, celery remoulade, beet salad and shredded carrots {you get the picture}, pork chops, cheese and traditional desserts. The “restos a la casserole” were: Pleine Mer, 22 rue de Chabrol in the 10th, 01.53.34.64.47, closed Sunday afternoon, Mondays and Tuesdays, formulas at 10 and 15 E, a dozen oysters from 6.50 to 16,50 E, of which they’ve already mentioned but where he likes the bivalves (plates, creuses) with Muscadet, smoked salmon, tarama and for dessert – a kouign amman; La Table de Marc Labourel, 6, rue Ernest Renan in the 15th, 01.43.06.94.75, closed Sundays and Monday night, where their specialty is cheese (a cheese menu is 49 E, regular menu 49 E as well, but a la carte only 25-30 E at lunch, 35-40 E at dinner without wine or cheese) as in cheese raviolis, salmon with bleu d’auvergne and beef with Roquefort – saying it lack a spark of individuality and leaves your credit card smoking – opt for the cheese menu he advises; and the bistrot Les Gamelles au Plafond, 9, rue des Bourets in Suresnes (take Tram T2), 01.47.28.75.22, closed Saturday and Sundays, menus at 15 and 20 E, menu-carte 24E where a young chef-owner, Blaise Volekaert, ex-Ritz, has taken up the challenge of dishing out pumpkin soup, monkfish with curry and a caramel tarte tatin.

Back-tracking a bit to Emmamuel Rubin’s “C’est Nouveau” in Figaroscope this week; it introduces the “dinette-type seafood bar” at Prunier & Caviar House, 15, place de la Madeleine in the 8th, 01.47.42.98.98, closed Sundays, that features oysters, herring, salmon, chic crustaceans and lots of caviar for anything from 19 E (a formula of salmon Tartare and dessert) to 683 E for 125 grams of Beluga, awarding it two hearts as well as to the next two places: Chez Cecile, 17, rue Vignon in the 8th, 01.42.66.46.39, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays with a 30 E menu (first and main) or 35 for all three courses featuring scallops with a shitake infusion, gambas beignets and 5-pepper beef; and Temps Libres, 158, ave Charles de Gaulle in Neuilly, 01.46.24.84.42, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, running you about 40 E (lunch menu=23 and evening = 29 E) for an andouille millefeuille, langoustine raviolis and too-well-cooked blanquette of veal. Then he gave one heart each to: the place that replaces Sumai’s Café {that I really liked} called Le Parc, 33, rue de Vaugirard in the 6th, 01.40.48.40.48, open everyday til 2 AM, which he notes that despite the cuisine which is more brasserie than fusion, serves the same public and costs 35-45 E in a Costes-type way with salads, veggies, beef, etc as well as “nippo-parisien” macarons a la Aoki; and Vog en Scene across from 5, quai Marcel Dassault in Suresnes, (replacing Five), 01.41.06.55.56 open every day, running one 40-45 E for confited peppers, cod and duck with mashed potatoes.

Thursday, Jean-Luc Petitrenaud in l’Express reviewed that old favorite Le Moulin de la Galette, 83, rue Lepic in the 18th, 01.46.06.84.77, menu = 25 E that continues to serve correct and simple dishes. He also reviewed Chez Paul in Lyon.

Gilles Pudlowski, also writing in Thursday’s l’Express managed to hit both the new hot ones in Paris and those near the ski slopes (it being “winter sports” time for families.) First, Paris. The new places he likes and will go back to are: La Ferrandaise + Petrossian both of whose coordinates have been given already; basically he just tells what he had - crustacean soup, cod with andouille and an almond cream - at the former and an (over-cooked) poached egg with caviar, crab risotto and 11 hour lamb at the latter. As well in Paris, he continues to admire Jacques Cagna and notes the rejuvenation of the Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme Hotel in the 2nd by an ex of Christian Constant’s, where he liked the langoustines with citronnelle, veal with zuccini and broccoli and wines by the glass for 110 E. He also applauds l’Ideal near Mont Blanc and Marc Veyrat (whom he calls “our” Harry Potter and a Merlin at the stoves, a bit of Ferran Adria and Heston Blumenthal, between Barnum and Bocuse, the man who’s reinvented the food of our day)’s most recent folly La Ferme de mon père in Megeve as well as Mozartian chef Brunnier’s Riedenburg in Salzbourg. Finally, he gives a recipe for sautéed langoustines with asparagus and where to get them in Loctudy.

Jean-Claude Ribaut, in Thursday-Friday’s Le Monde had two articles on the 2006 Michelin Red Guide. The first noted that this years edition had 65 new “Bib Goumands,” the smiley-faced Bibendum notations for a good price-quality meal – there are 481 in all of France since they started being chosen in 1997. One is in Paris - l’Ami Jean and one in Puteaux – La Table d’Alexandre. The news this year is that they also chose 400 “maisons d’hote” (eg B&B’s) noted by a red icon in addition to the 276 reasonably-priced “Bib Hotels.” The second article was subtitled “tightfisted with their stars” and reported what was leaked already but Ribaut complained that the Tour d’Argent demotion was a{n unexpected and to him, apparently, undeserved} surprise.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos had an article on how that lowly bistro meat – pork – is now found on the most swank of menus, vide Eric Frechon at le Bristol who merits at least another star for it. However he also praises the pork served elsewhere, specifically at AOC, Stephane Martin + l’Appenino, coordinates in the guidebooks or article itself. {From Frechon’s crunchy pork fixed about five ways on a single plate to AOC’s BBQ with rissole potatoes; and Martin’s jarret with red cabbage to l’Appenino’s ham, salami, bacon, sausage and dishes such as stuffed pig’s foot – it all sounds pretty mouth-watering.}

In the weekend’s Figaro there were three articles on prominent places: Jean Claude Vrinat’s Taillevent that was largely a historical overview with chronology; another, on Olivier Roellinger’s eponymous restaurant in Cancale, pegged to his acquisition of a third Michelin star; and the third on Claude Terrail’s Tour d’Argent’s widely-commented on loss of a star. Francois Simon’s “Croque notes” entitled “Return of the Air France steward” discusses his meal at Bélisaire, rue Marmontel in the 15th, 01.48.28.62.24, in the most opaque Simonian manner ever.

The March US Saveur had a wonderful book review by Shane Mitchell entitled “Very Slow Food” of eGullet member and Director Paula Wolfert’s most recent edition of The Cooking of Southwest France: Recipes from France’s Magnificent Rustic Cuisine, Wiley, NYC, 2006. If you wish to order it please do so using our link in the Pantry to Amazon.com.

Amber Garrison’s Postcards from Paris this week highlighted what she considers the quintessential Parisian bistro Le Voltaire on the Quai Voltaire; classic food, good ambiance, nice place.

France Magazine had an article by Philip Faiers on Haute Normandy that listed several restos in the Dieppe/Le Havre area: le Bistrot du Pollet, La Cambuse, Chez Nounoute + Brasserie les Bains.

Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp published three articles entitled “Michelin Men” on the winners and losers in the 2006 Red Guide, “Petrossian/Caviar Pret-a-Porter” and “We Found Ghislaine Arabian! Buzz” and John Talbott had an article entitled Had Enough Pumpkin Soup Yet?.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of February 27th, 2006

Monday, Le Fooding’s news was that the first Sunday of the month the resto in the 18th much beloved by the “Fooding” bunch, La Famille, 41 rue des Trois Frères, 01 42 52 11 12, hosts a different outside chef in a “ping-pong” event with the resident chef – Bruno Viala. In February it was Angelo Capasa of Marcel at the Drugstore Publicis doing 11 colors in 11 dishes; in March it will be Flora {Mikula} doing classics such as cassoulet, choucroute, etc.; and in April the Irish-born cookbook author (Cooking with Friends) - Trish Deseine – who lives in France. No reservations are taken; it's held between 8 and 11 PM.

Monday/Tuesday A Nous Paris gave 3/5 blocks to two places: Jerome Berger ate at the Seafood Bar at the Caviar House Prunier, 15, place de la Madeleine in the 8th, 01.47.42.98.98, open Monday-Saturday 12 noon to 1 AM without interruption, formula at 19, a la carte 50 E for everything from salmon to caviar and lobster{it’s described before above}, where he only complained about the smoked salmon; Philippe Toinard, meanwhile, ate at Jarasse, another seafood place, described before, where he only disliked the small range of wines by the glass. Of note too, Market in the 8th, now serves 18 {very American sounding} cocktails with accompaniments, such as oysters, pecorino and grilled wantons, for 15 E from 6-8 PM.

If you’re interested in learning about digestifs, Tuesday’s Paris Voice had an article by Laura Van Iterson explaining the differences between liqueurs and spirits, single and double distilled, crèmes and Génépi.

Wednesday’s Figaroscope’s C’est nouveau gave the featured photo and lead to but a one-hearter - Jules, 2, rue de Sfax in the 16th, 01.45.00.37.19, closed Sundays, lunch menus 17 & 21, a la carte 35-40 E while giving two hearts to the zen-spaced Fontaine Fiacre, 8, rue Hippolyte Lebas in the 9th, 01.53.20.88.70, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with a weekday lunch formula of 12,50 E and other menus at 21 and 27, a la carte 45 E for rabbit rillettes, scallops and a perfect parfait. The other three restos included: the cheese bistro run by an ex-Androuet person, La Table de Marc Labourel, 6, rue Ernest Renan in the 15th, 01.43.06.84.75, closed Sunday and Monday with a cheese menu at 49 and regular menu at the same price, a la carte 35-60 E (one heart only); the Indian Old Jawad in the 2nd (two hearts); and an Italian place – Il Naturale in the 17th (one heart).

The “Dossier” this week featured meals in or around movie houses, specifically:

Brasserie du Publicisdrugstore

Le Pere Lathuille

Bistrot Latin

Le Rendez-vous des Quais +

Cafebibliotheque.

And Francois Simon went to l’Entrepot, 7, rue Francis de Pressense in the 14th, 01.45.40.07.50, costing 81 E for two before a show, but the food albeit seasonal was slow in coming and served on cold plates.

Zurban’s guest critic Pierrick Jegu devoted his major space Wednesday to a review of Mori Venice Bar, coordinates given before, a Venician restaurant, which he liked {as did Figaroscope several weeks ago.} The restos “in the casserole” included:144 Petrossian, coordinates given and many dishes already described, which he liked; a neo-bistrot Chez Corto, 47, rue Rodier in the 9th, 01.49.95.96.80, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, formulas = 15 (lunch)and 22 (dinner), menus 20 (lunch) and 28 E (dinner) for an “honest” soup of mussels, lamb orientale (ditto) and classic moelleux of chocolate; and a pan-Asian place called Asianwok in the 11th.

Thursday in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud did his usual thing, reviewing one in Paris and one outside. The Parisian place was La Stade {you’ve got it, right near the three stadia and in one of them, Géo-André } 20, ave de la Porte de St Cloud in the 16th, 01.40.71.22.22 serving food of the auvergne in a frequently changing carte on a 21 E menu, 35 E a la carte. His out of Paris place is the Café de l’Esperance in Bouliac.

Also on Thursday, Gilles Pudlowski in Le Point ate at and liked the Corsican place near the Palais Royal, A Casaluna, Liza the Lebanese place and Bambou a Viet Namese resto - coordinates already given. He also says that Le Divellac + Caviar Kaspia are in good form and recommends the venerable resto Gill as well as the Poissonnerie des Halles in Rouen. As for products he likes the Laiterie Bayard’s cheeses and gives a recipe for a gateau basque from the tongue-twisting Maison du Gâteau Basque - Etchebaster in Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

Jean-Claude Ribaut, in Thursday-Friday’s Le Monde mentioned two Italian places in Paris that are receiving a lot of buzz now Il Settimo + Mori Venice Bar. He also announced that the prestigious “Best worker of the Year” awardee Philippe Jego, of La Table de Philippe, at the {would you believe?} Fairplay Golf Hôtel & Spa in Benalup south of Seville was hosting the 51st convocation of best workers this week there.

Friday in Les Echos, Jean-Louis Galesne talked of tea-rooms and mentioned four in particular: the well-known chocolatier Jean Paul Hevin, the left bank institution Laduree and two where Japanese chefs, in the latter case all women, reign – Fauchon + Mamie Gateaux, 66, rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th, 01.42.22.32.15, open 11 :30 AM – 6 PM, closed Sundays with formulas at 9 and 13,50 E, a la carte 15-20 E.

In Saturday’s FT, Nick Landers interviewed Alain Senderens in which he notes that the restaurant is now more profitable and the chef is getting to chat with and know his customers better.

Sunday’s New York Times Travel Section concerned Chamonix. In an article “In the Alps, Wide-Open Slopes and Crowded Bars,” Heather Timmons mentioned Le Panier des 4 Saisons + MBC and several bars.

Meanwhile I the Washington Post Terry Ward discussed a host of places in Toulouse that included: Le Florida, Cave des Blanchers, Le Sherpa, Tantina de Burgos, Le Barbu, La Brindelle, Chez Carmen + Le Marrakech.

{I cannot imagine why you’d be interested, but} Liberation’s cultural critic wrote an article Friday on the French and non-French chefs, sommeliers and pastry chefs in Los Vegas mentioning: Gamel Aziz, Paul Bartolotta, Jean-Georges Vongterichten, Daniel Boulud, Alain Ducasse, Guy Savoy, Franck Savoy, Damien Dulas, Hugues Poujet, Eric Mancio, Joël Robuchon, Antoine Hernandez, and François Benot.

{Gayot.com came in for some criticism here recently so maybe this news is no news but} they recently listed their best 10 bistrots (all got 13/20 except l’Ami Louis which got 15/20 and Chez Georges + le Bistrot de Cancale which got 14/20. They are: Allard, Aux Lyonnais, Chez Georges, Chez Rene, l’Oenotheque, l’Ami Louis, Bistrot de Cancale, Le Comptoir, Au Petit Riche, Le Vieux Bistrot.

Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp published Literary Lunch Buzz about the Pavillon de la Grande Cascade and John Talbott, one on Restos for under 30 Euros.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited March 10, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 6th, 2006

Monday, in A Nous Paris, the critics wrote up two 3/5 block places, one old, the other new. Le Gorille Blanc has been around for a while {see my review here} but while they liked the food, the found the ambiance not bistrotish; the second, La Ferme des Mathurins, 17, rue Vignon in the 8th, 01.42.66.46.39, lunch formulas at 22, 27 and 32 €, dinner 30 and 35 € had a good artichoke soup, monkfish blanquette and pineapple in “all its states,” the regret – just the décor.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est Nouveau” in Figaroscope gave the lead, photo and 2-hearts to the “cult place” Aux Zingots, 12, rue de la Fidelite in the 10th, 01.47.70.19.34, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing about 40-50 € for the “dietetically incorrect” dishes of kidney, tete de veau, brains, pigs feet, sausage etc. Also getting two hearts was the mid-ancient mid-modern bistrot Chaumette, 7, rue Gros in the 16th, 01.42.88.29.27, closed Sundays costing about 40 € for entrecote, pot-au-feu and veggies. Then there were three one-hearters: the “mini-table” by the Seine run by an ex- of Lasserre, Robuchon + Lucas-Carton - La Table de Michel par Fabrice, 13, quai de la Tournelle in the 5th, 01.44.07.17.57, closed Sundays described as very wise cooking, not unpleasant and good but without finesse {EN: for this they gave it but one heart?,} a tartine, soup & sandwich place Les Enfants Gates in the 17th and a Danish place Le Cesar in the 9th.

In their “Dossier” the Figaroscope team led by Colette Monsat picked “Seven Chefs of Note” giving for each, their provenance, their cuisine and their future plans:

l’Avant Gout – Christophe Beaufront

Chez Jean – Benoit Bordier

Drouant – Antony Clemot

Le Delicabar – Sebastien Gaudard

Chez l’Ami Jean – Stephane Jego

La Cerisaie – Cyril Lalanne

Ze Kithen Galerie – William Ledeuil

And as usual, in his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon picked his own place to go, run by the darlings of Le Fooding (who, he says, deserve a spanking for falling into Le Fooding’s trap) at Transversal, coordinates given before. The headline says it all: “….genial, mais nul.” If you need more, he answers his question about “Should you go?” with a “Yes, for the Monory special exposition in the museum, the museum itself and the bookstore.” “Bouf!” {There’s more delicious and barely comprehensible Simonspeak in between, but I’ll let you savor it raw, as he apparently evaluated his meal.}

Wednesday, Zurban’s guest critic Pierrick Jegu devoted his major space to a review of Temps Libres, coordinates given before, where he talks very little about the food and then terms it largely pleasant with pleasing prices (lunch formula 23, menu 29, a la carte 40-45 €. In his three casserole choices he reviews the same place as A Nous Paris, however, he calls it Chez Cecile – La Ferme des Mathurins, serving scallop tartare, a medallion of veal and sautéed tuna and says it’s good news for the area; plus an Asiatic cantine – Zen Zoo in the 2nd and an African brasserie, Moussa l’Africain in the 19th.

Jean-Claude Ribaut, in Wednesday/Thursday’s Le Monde writes of the installation of the fine affinateur of cheeses, Henry Voy at La Ferme Saint-Hubert in the Ternes market in the 17th, open Tuesday to Saturday 9-1 and 4 to 7:30 PM as well as Sunday mornings 9-1:30. He goes on to list the best cheese sellers in the city, including: the three in the 7th - Barthélémy, Marie-Anne Cantin + Quatrehomme, Trotté in the 4th, Mollard in the 9th, Alléosse + Dubois et fils in the 17th, six cheese-shops that Androuet runs (www.androuet.com) and Les Fromages de Pierre for tastings in the 15th.

Thursday, in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud returns to the Perigord-in-Paris place, Les Allobroges, coordinates in the guides, where the menu is a fine 19 € for a first, main, cheese AND dessert as well as to Chez Fonfon in Manifon.

Thursday as well, in Le Point Gilles Pudlowski was out of town a lot. But in Paris he went to Millésime 62, coordinates given before, where he enjoyed the tartine of goat cheese and sardines, filet of duck and lemon tarte - menus are 24-26 €. He declares both Il Cortile + Le Relais Beaujolais in good shape and thinks the best Turkish resto in Paris is Sizin in the 9th and likes Wa, a new Chinese place in the 1st. Outside Paris, he likes the ex-el-Bulli chef, Jean Sulpice of L'Oxalys in Val-Thorens, Le Matou in Megeve and the return of the “enfant terrible” Edouard Loubet to La Bastide de Capelongue in Bonnieux. Finally, he talks of lobster from Brittany which he suggests one buy from the Paris fish store – the Poissonnerie du Dôme - and gives a recipe with salted butter {that sounds like the classic US preparation}.

Friday in Les Echos, Jean-Francis Pécresse writes of a wine store in the 5th Chez Pantagruel that carries a 39 euro Bourgueil, Grand Mont 1989.

March’s Paris Notes has two articles by their food critic Rosa Jackson. The first, her traditional Paris Bites starts off discussing Luc Dubranchet who started {the newletter/journal I’ve referred to before} Omnivore and the places he (Luc D.), she {and I} like: Le Comptoir de Relais, Flora, Ze Kitchen Galerie + Jean and two she {and I} don’t and he does: La Famille + Le Refectoire. In any case, she then goes on to review Gaya par Pierre Gagnaire where “not everything worked” and l’Avant-Gout where it sort of did, except for the plain old moelleux of chocolate. She had a second article cleverly entitled “Constant Motion” about Christian Constant, covering everything from his “fathering” a host of chefs of hot modern bistros to his continuous oversight of the Violin d’Ingres, Café Constant + Fables de la Fontaine as well as his discouragement at the lack of future great young hard-working French chefs. {EN: It’s a charming article and interview – if you don’t subscribe to Paris Notes for Jackson’s articles alone, you should; and that goes for the French/Franglais Omnivore as well. Disclosure: I know both Jackson and Dubranchet but have received no money or other remuneration for this shameless promotion.} There was one other article in this issue by Paul Franklin on the Costes Brothers that summarized their rise in Paris through opening the Café Costes, Café Beaubourg, Café Marly, l’Avenue, l’Esplanade, Café Ruc, Le Murat + La Grande Armee. The brothers are quoted saying their cuisine is intended for a female clientele, are “micro” and are not “serious.”

Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp published International “it” Edition Buzz about the new hot places in town: Jarasse, Jules ex-Le Petit Victor Hugo, Bis de Severo, Les Symples de l’Os a Moelle, Chez Cecile ex-La Ferme de Mathurins, Le Comptoir, Mori Venice Bar ex-Bon 2 + Seafood Bar at Prunier and John Talbott, one on Jet Plane and California Dreamin’ but about Paris.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited March 13, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 13th, 2006

Monday, in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson has a note that the patron of Chez Ramulaud has opened a true “night restaurant,” Aux Zingots, specializing in natural wine and tripaille (innards); everything coming with frites, corrodinates given before, which is open til 1 AM, and if the prefecture of police is nice, 2 AM. Entrees are 8-12, mains 17-20 €.

Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks to Christophe, 8, rue Descartes in the 5th, 01.43.26.72.49, open everyday with lunch menu at 16, regular menu 19 and a la carte 30-40 €, and Philippe Toinard awarded 3/5 blocks to Sensi, 1 bis, rue Jean Mermoz in the 8th, 01.42.90.29.10, closed Sundays, lunch formula 24, menu 28, a la carte 45-75 € for calamari and shrimp a la plancha, swordfish and mascarpone. Also in the issue was an article by Francois Lemarie on the New Kings of the Bistro mentioning: Le Fumoir, Dede la frite, La Perle, Le Delaville, Le Charbon, Le China Club, La Gazzetta, Le café Tournesol, Le General Beuret, Le Trois Pieces Cuisine, La Fourmi, Chez Francis la Butte + La Fleche d’Or. I missed reporting the new contained in it’s sidebar last week, but the bistrot of the year of the Petit Lebey is – La Ferrandaise, 8, rue Descartes in the 5th, 01.43.26.72.49, open every day, lunch formulas at 12, 16 and 19 €, a la carte 40 €, where he liked the Basque pork nems, roast duck and the mousse au chocolate.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est Nouveau” gave the lead, photo and 2-hearts to Les Muses, in the Hotel Scribe, 1, rue Scribe in the 9th, 01.44.71.24.24, closed Saturdays and Sundays, running one about 80-100 € a la carte but with menus at 45, 70 and 120 € for rabbit presented three ways (too precious), good pigeon and a disappointing waffle. Two hearts also went to l’Archelle, 83, ave de Segur in the 15th, 01.40.65.99.10, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing 30-40 a la carte or menus at 20, 25 and 30 for lunch and 35 € at dinner for foie gras with chestnuts and faut filet (for my views see here.) One other two-hearter was Le Petit Champaret, 30, rue Vernier in the 17th, 01.40.13.81.8, open every day, running one about 30-45 € for Lyon sausage, kidneys with mustard sauce and baba. Then he awarded one heart to Bizen, 111, rue Reaumur in the 2nd, 01.40.13.81.81 open every day, in the old Tarn space, running one about 30-40 € for snails and Thai swordfish. Finally a broken heart went to Le Comptoir, 37, rue Berger in the 1st, 01.40.26.26.66, costing 25-40 € serving tired world food.

In their “Dossier” the Figaroscope gang discussed Spanish food listing:

Gastronomic ones

Le Passage (Alain Senderens)

l’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Le Salon d’Helene

Authentic ones

Fogon

Christina’s Tapas

Calle 24

Da Rosa

Bellota, Bellota

The conceptual ones

Lizarran

Casa del Campo

Culture Biere

Trema

And as usual, Francois Simon went to another – Pena Festayre.

Wednesday, Zurban’s guest critic Pierrick Jegu devoted his major space to a review of Aux Zingots, coordinates given before, which he says delivers excellent bistro food such as a tartare of crayfish, boudin, rabbit – it’s open only in the evening but until 1 AM. The restos in the casserole have all had their coordinates given before as well: Seafood Bar Prunier, Carpediem + Jules, the first a seafood cantine, the second, serves haddock and tuna with a vegetable “spaghetti” and the last has very reasonable menus (17-21 €) and is a bit out of the way.

Jean-Claude Ribaut, in Wednesday/Thursday’s Le Monde discussed keeping wine alive once opened.

Thursday in Le Point Gilles Pudlowski published his usual mix of places and products. In Lille, he notes the passage of control from father to son at L'Huîtrière, in St Martin de Belleville there’s an all pork meal at Le Grenier de Saint-Martin, the wonderboy of Megeves, Emmanuel Renaut, former second to Marc Veyrat, has realized his dream of a hotel resto, Flocons de sel and in Les Menuires, Emily Jay, 25, has gone into the kitchen of Au Coin du feu. He also tells where to buy the Savoy pasta, crozets – at the La Maison des pâtes in Chambéry - and gives a recipe for a risotto of crozets with country bacon. Finally he visits several Paris restaurants and likes Il Carpaccio, an Italian place in the Hotel Royal Monceau and Le Comptoir du Relais but wants to follow the other plain Le Comptoir, coordinates given, well chef’d by Miguel Mélinard formerly with Nobu, serving tartare of tuna and salmon and a nice Thai plate and Al Dente, another Italian trattoria in the 7th.

Thursday, in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud reviewed the “almost anonymous“ Portuguese bistrot, 2 sans 3 restaurant, 203 Av Gambetta in the 20th, 01.40.31.86.07 and Charollais in Macon.

Also this Thursday and last, in the freebie Paru Vendu Pierre Rival gave his “Coup de Pierre“ to Mori Venice Bar + Ripaille. In addition, the paper reviewed several places for brunch: Le Curieux Spaghetti Bar, La Ferme, Café du Musee Jaquemart Andre, l’Heure Gourmande + Juan & Juanita.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos, reviewed several new restaurants all of which he liked except the Seafood Bar which he didn’t “special mention.” About Christophe, coordinates above, he wrote that Christophe Philippe, 26, ex-La Table Corse, Plaza Atheneee + Pic delights the diner with crunchy langoustines, cod and veal sweetbreads. At La Table de Claire, 30, rue Emile-Lepeu in the 11th, 01.43.70.59.84, closed Sundays and Mondays for about 40 €, a creative chef Claire Seban cooks up apple with foie gras, lamb, cod and spiced bread. Then at the Seafood Bar Caviar House & Prunier, 15, place de la Madeleine in the 8th, 01.47.42.98.98, closed Sundays for about 50 € without caviar, serves oysters, giant crab and other seafood. Finally, in Boulogne-Billancourt he ate at Boulogne sur Mer, 11 bis, avenue Jean-Baptiste-Clément, 01.46.04.12.87, open for lunch and Friday and Saturday dinner where he loved the oysters, fish and wine.

Saturday, in Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” concerned his visit to Marc Meneau’s l’Esperence in Vezelay, which I couldn’t help myself from starting at the end – where he says the bill took the enamel off his teeth at 592 € (the menu was 160 €) and one can eat better at nearby starred places (eg Patrick Gauthier’s La Madeleine in Sens) at half the price. He found good and bad things about each dish he had, for example, the white wine aperitif was served warm but maybe that was to emphasize its flavors. Simon also gave a nice review of a new book Et si c’etait bon, written by Jean Marcel Bouguereau, chief editor at Nouvel Observatoire, published by Chiflet & Co (9.50 €). In addition Simon says that Bertrand Gueneron, exLucas Carton will move to Bascou on Rue Reamur at the beginning of April. Finally he draws ten lessons for French chefs that he learned from visiting Catalonia, that might have been subtitled “Ferran Adria and beyond,” as follows:

1. Make it simple, like Elkanbo does fish in Geteria rather than overdone with spices as in France.

2. Make it affordable, like Les Cols in Olot.

3. Make it relaxed, like Arzak in San Sebastien rather than like in France where the waiters are like shoe salesgirls who treat the client like an inferior.

4. Remember it’s just a meal not a grand mass (as it is in France), example: Toc in Gerona.

5. Remain humble, like at Mugaritz in Erenteria, rather than egotistical like French chefs.

6. To survive, adapt to the new generation of diners, like Beratasegui in Barcelona rather than cling to convention as in France.

7. Be a bit daring, like at Ca’Sento in Valence rather than always applying the brakes as in France.

8. Still – keep classic dishes, as does Jaume Subiros in Figueras.

9. And keep your sense of humar, as does el Celler de Can Roca in Girona as opposed to Transversal serving apple seeds for dessert.

10. Finally, keep soldiering on like Adria does in his Barcelona lab, all day from 8 AM til his one service at 8 PM at El Bulli, rather than fall on your back as in France.

{For some reason, Figaro has not been posting all their weekend stuff promptly on the website, thus I have to play a bit of catch up here.} From 18-19 February we learn that the restaurateur, Navromatis [sic] and trend-follower, Li Edelkoort, have teamed up to open a light resto called Laurent on the first floor in the Women’s Section of Galeries Lafayette and Helene Darroze has converted her reception space into a “boudoir” to feed finger food to 16-20 persons {I am not making this up. See my digest account of the article about her containing photos of her in her night-gowns, in the 22-28 December Paris Match.} From the 25-26 February Figaro, comes yet another article, this by Francois Simon, on Claude Terrail and the Tour d'Argent’s “fall” as well as “the info of the day” that Paul Bocuse (age 80) has reached an “understanding” with Alain Ducasse to turn over his resto and five brasseries to him, in a move resembling that when Ducasse saved Aux Lyonnais + Benoit to preserve their national patrimony. On 4-5 March, Figaro’s Alexandra Michot summarized the 10 restaurant guides: the red Guide Michelin, Pudlowski, Lebey, Routard, Prosper Montagne, GaultMillau, Champerand, Bottin, Petit Fute + Omnivore. 11-12 March, Alexandra Michot wrote an article in Le Figaro about places to go for “finger food” specifically mentioning Senderens, L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Hélène Darroze, Alinea {sorry, but it’s true} Alain Ducasse, Sirest opening the end of March at the Porte de Versailles, Fogon, Chez Jean, Liza, Isami, Au bout des Doigts in Lille and La Villa du Havre in Le Havre. Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” in the same issue wrote an article called “Mom made it better” in which he writes of the restaurant 16 Haussman, next door to where Le Figaro moved last year. The food doesn’t sound so bad, except the clafoutis which ones Mom of yore made less dry, but the clientele does and so I’ll let you read it and figure it out. Finally, two of their writers summarize the recent chefs’ festivals in Le Havre and Milan and award the advantage (as in tennis) of the place to Milan for glamour but the match to Omnivore for its activities at Le Havre.

The weekend FT had an article by Jancis Robinson on the improvement in red Loire wines, especially Chinons, noting that Americans are lovers of such products.

Sunday, in the JDD Patrice Hardy of La Truffe Noire in Neuilly sur Seine picked his favorite affordable places – La Manufacture in Issy les Moulineaux and Le Reservoir, 16 rue de la Forge Royale in the 11th, 01.43.56.39.60, open every evening for food, music and dancing in a huge ex-Entrepot. FYI, Pierre Herme also picked his favorites in the weekly Enville listing Le Baratin + La Cafe de la Mairie in the 6th.

Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote an article called “Where’s the Beed” discussing Frederic Doucet, Bocuse and Ducasse’s most recent young chef find from Charolles as well as Vicky Ozyuruk’s new Club Sandwich bar called 46 Avenue and John Talbott, one on "How Can a Critic get it so Wrong."

{Digester’s Note: For several years, I have been disappointed with the publication I and many in France and the Outre-mer once loved (in the 1960’s, bien sur,) the once monthly, then occasional, then in real trouble, now bimonthly Gault-Millau. Has it turned the corner, sighted the “light at the end of the tunnel,” found itself at last, again? Never one to step out on the plank, I’m not sure. But the Feb-March issue looks like it’s turning towards quality content again (enough that I’m re-upping after several years as a non-subscriber.)} Here’s a sampling of what this issue offered: reviews of three new places, the first two in Paris whose coordinates I’ve already supplied - Le Cou de la Girafe, Sens par la Campagnie des Comptoirs + Chateau de Beaulieu-Marc Meurin in Busnes; several places that have changed various aspects: the hotel-resto Les Castellas in Collias, the décor Taillevent, the concept Bistrot du Sommelier, 97, bd Haussman in the 8th, 01.42.65.24.85, closed weekends, menus 39-100 €, the chef at Petrossian – Le 144 and l’Oustau de Baumaniere in Les Baux, the menu for female guests Flora, the kitchen team at the Park Hyatt Vendome. They also more briefly mention changes of chef at Chateau Eza in Eze, l’Auberge des Falaises in Saint Palais sur Mer, Au Bacchus Gourmet in Epernay, Les Teraces in Uriages les Bains and changes in ownership at La Villa d’Eleis in Siran and hotel chief at Le Saule Pleurer in Monteux. In addition they mention three popular places meriting a visit – Bound, le Cristal Room + La Guignette a Vapeur, at La Villette Park, 211, Ave Jean Jaures in the 19th, 01.40.03.72.21. There is also a huge article (with recipes) on Thierry Marx, the celebrated chef at the Chateau Cordellian-Bages in Pauillac and shorter ones on Bruno Doucet of La Regalade, Lionel Giraud from Narbonne and Flora Mikula. Finally there is an article on Pierre Gagnaire’s “assault” of Tokyo.

March’s Where Paris has several reviews, articles and notations by Alexander Lobrano. First he suggests places near museums: Le Dauphin + Vin & Maree near the Louvre, Cinq Mars near the Orsay and Grizzli Café + Benoit near the Pompidou. He also wrote up the venerable brasserie La Coupole and the new top Italian table Il Cortile. Finally, he notes several changes; the new name and chef at the Pur’Grill at the Park Hyatt Paris Vendome, new look and new chef at Drouant, warm and hearty bistro Chez Fred, and new bistro La Ferrandaise.

{Finally, I’ve never reported an obit before, but Wednesday, Rene Lasserre of the eponymous restaurant Lasserre died at age 93 and I and countless other young Americans in the ‘60’s found his rolled-back ceiling quite the show. The food and rigid ambiance, well, that was another matter.}

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited February 23, 2007 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 20th, 2006

Monday, in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson wrote up a new place, l’Altro which she calls New York meets Milan.

Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard wrote up “Tables d’hote,” those communal eating places (without ratings): l’Auvergne Gourmande, Granteroirs, Granterroirs bis + les Domaines qui Montent, 22, rue Cardinet in the 17th, 01.42.27.63..96, formula = 13 E, 136, bvd Voltaire in the 11th, 01.43.56.89.15.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est Nouveau” gave the lead, photo but only one heart to Royce, 3, rue des Saussaies in the 8th, 01.43.12.82.00, closed Sundays, running 45-50 € a la carte for leeks with langoustines, endives with ham and gratinéed macaroni {that I guess he wrote up because it’s owned by Chelsea footballer Claude Makelele} and 2-hearts and the same sized photo across the crease to the fashionista “branché-chic” 40 BC, 40, ave Pierre I de Serbie in the 8th, 01.47.20.77.77, open evenings from 8-12 PM costing 80-90 € a la carte for a shrimp salad, foie gras and pop-corn {I kid not; called “snob food” [sic]}, over-cooked cheeseburger with wagyu (Kobe style) beef and chocolate mousse that wasn’t mousse but was very chocoletty, and three other one-hearters – an Italian place Les Vilelloni in the 3rd, Le Beau Vin, 7, rue Prouvaires in the 1st, 01.45.08.04.10, open everyday for about 25-40 € a la carte for a dozen snails with blah butter, over-cooked shrimp a la plancha and classic entrecote, and La Lilote, 24, rue Bosquet in the 7th, 01.45.51.78.82 closed Saturday lunch and Sundays serving sautéed calamari and beans, dull lamb with curry and a moelleux of chocolate for 25-40 € a la carte (menu=33 €.)

{After that, the Figaro gang (Colette Monsat et al) came alive and gave grades to many new places this season.} The “Dossier” listed (no number = no rating):

Stars

Gaya Rive Gauche

Alain Senderens

Bistronomic

Carte Blanche

La Ferrandaise

Ripaille

Gastronomic

Drouant 7.5/10

Mori Venice Bar 7

Seafood Bar Prunier 7

144 Petrossian 6

Il Cortile 6

Relais du Parc 5.5

Jarrasse 5

Muses de l’hotel Scribe

Assiette de Lulu

Bistrots

Les Symples de l’Os a Moelle 7.5

Aux Zingots 6.5

La Table de Claire 6

Chez Cecile 6

Temps Libres 6

Chaumette 6

La Table de Marc Labourel 5.5

Table d’hote de Caroll Sinclair 5

Le Garde Robe

Jules

Carpediem

Fils de la Ferme

Neo-classic

l’Escale 6

Fontaine Fiacre 6

Le Diapason 5.5

Namiki 5.5

Ivory 5

La Table de Michel par Fabrice 4.5

La Cave Lanrezac 4

Les Rochons 3.5

Foreign food

l’Osteria 7

Old Jawad 6.5

Le Cesar 5.5

Kil Son 5.5

Moussa l’Africain

Le Pizzetta

Tine II

Mosca Libre

Gadgety-Trendy

La Gazetta 6.5

40 BC 6.5

Le Parc 6

Vog en Scene 5.5

Royce 5.5

Pena Festayre 5.5

Habemus Papam 5

Sensi 4

Jet Lag

Chacha

DS Café

Enfants Gates

Litchi Bar Bazar

PM Café

And always

Unclassifiable

Transversal

Cosmopolitan

Kai

Fogon

Food-Business

Sens

Steak & Lobster

And just open

l’Empire in the 8th

la Casa Palenque a Mexican place in the 11th

La Tavola and l’Italian Lounge in La Defense

la Villa Pereire in the 17th

le Cou de la Girafe’s Gregory Coutanceau leaves after three months

Chez Claudine in the 9th gets a good new chef from La Cuisine

the Costes Love hotel opens a resto in the 9th

the Costes and Bruce Meritte open a resto-bar in the 8th

a tea salon open in Bonpoint in the 6th

Babette, a creole place replaces Jamin

And in April-May

Chateaubriand reopens in the 9th under Inaki Aiziparte

an ex-Camdeborde turns the ex-Fogon space into an innards’ place

Chalet Daumesnil is restored in the 12th

Even later

Gilles Choukroun maybe opens a new place

L’Os a Moelle II is rumored to open

a resto will open in the Museum of Arts Deco.

Finally, Francois Simon reviewed Chez Cecile aka La Ferme Des Mathurins, coordinates given before, which he calls a “drole-kitsch,” a lumbago of modernity, smacking of Ferran Adria and Simenon, serving dim sum like bar, {well, you get the picture}. He paid 142 € for two that included a 60 € Bordeaux and two 12 € glasses of St Joseph and says give the guy a chance.

Wednesday, Zurban’s guest critic Pierrick Jegu devoted his major space to a review of l’Escarbille in Meudon, which he called impeccable {but given the schlep by train (only 4,10 € RT) I think we’ll wait to say more until other critics have commented.} The restos in the casserole were the Asiatic Chez Duc, in the 2nd, the Italian bistro La Baracola in the 11th and Gregory Coutanceau’s (see above) latest venture – l’Escale, 71, ave Paul Doumer in the 16th, 01.45.04.12.81, closed Mondays, with a lunch formula of 23 € and lunch menu at 29 €, a la carte minimum 35-40 €, a “yachting” style fish place serving smoked salmon, oysters and a risotto of penne.

Thursday, an unsigned column in Le Figaro entitled “Last Minute” announced that the chef (Jean Francois Sicallac) was leaving la Tour d’Argent one month after it lost a second star.

Jean-Claude Ribaut, in Wednesday/Thursday’s Le Monde discussed the history and secrets of making blanquette.

Thursday in Le Point Gilles Pudlowski covered the waterfront with his enthusiastic review of Les Zingots coordinates above, an old-style brasserie run with finesse, beautiful wines, a nice ambiance and good prices; declares Chez Géraud one of the best bistrots in Paris and says that the brasserie Le Relais Plaza is at the summit of its art; but declares the Guy Savoy annex, Atelier Maître Albert, in trouble with its insipid snails, dry veal, oversalted chicken and too creamy tart. He devotes much space to a homage to the Eternal Tour d’Argent saying shame on the Michelin, long live it and saying it’s still seductive with the power having passed (see above) to the #2, Stéphane Haissant, ex-Guérard + Senderens. His product of he week are truffles from Pebeyre in Cahors and he gives a recipe for raviolis with cabbage, foie gras and truffles. He glorifies several places in Belgium: the Sans cravate in Bruges, Belga Queen+ Bon-Bon in Brussels.

Thursday, in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud reviewed A ma vigne in Lyon and La Remise in Antraigues-sur-Volane. In addition, Marie-Dominique Lelièvre writes a “Portrait” of Rougui Dia, the chef at Petrossian.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos, reviewed several places in Sancerre, notably La Tour, La Pomme d'Or, Le Laurier, La Côte des Monts Damnés + Le Lièvre Gourmand.

Saturday, in Figaro, the entire page was devoted to things Toulousien pegged apparently to the First International Meeting of Gastronomy, but translated on their website as The Feast of World Gastronomy, March 27-29th , that Toulouse’s #1 chef – Michel Serran – is hosting. First, Fabrice Trossero has a profile of Serran. Then, Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” dealt with a riff on him starting with Gault Millau’s 10th commandment in 1976 to innovate something every day and questioning whether someone like Serran meets or fails the test of creating rather than copying (in addition, he does give a nice mini-review to La Cuisine in Paris’s 7th , coordinates already given, which he says he’ll go back to.) Then, however comes the main course, a test of the best restos in Toulouse, with the team declaring that the top five were: Michel Serran, Les Jardins de l’Opera, La Rotisserie des Carmes, Le Mas de Dardagna + Le Mauzac. Their classification of the top twenty is highly detailed and I will give only the score (1-5 out of 5) of the food and the price-quality ratio and the total (1-20 out of 20):

Michel Serran 3.5 3 15

Les Jardins de l’Opera 4 4 14.5

Rotisserie des Carmes 3.5 4.5 14

Le Mas de Dardagna 3.5 3.5 14

Le Mauzac 4 4.5 14

La Corde 3 4 13.5

Le Cantou 3 3 13

Emile 3 3 12.5

Atmospheres 3 3 12

Le Pois Gourmand 3 3 11.5

Le 19 2.5 3 11

Le Cosi Fan Tuti 3 2.5 11

Le 7 3 3 11

Le Japan 3 2.5 11

l’Empereur de Hue 2.5 2.5 10.5

Le Met 2.5 2.5 10.5

Chez Carmen 2.5 3 10.5

Le Bouchon Lyonnais 2 2.5 10.5

El Pescador 3 2 9.5

Le Velane 2 2 9

The weekend FT had an article by Jancis Robinson entitled “Has the fizz gone out of champagne?”

Finally Sunday, Bonjour Paris had two articles, one by Margaret Kemp entitled “Gerard Depardieu Buzz” about the man and his restaurant La Fontaine Gaillon and one by John Talbott entitled “The hot new quarters – the 3rd and the 15th.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited April 25, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 27th, 2006

Monday, Le Fooding, had a very drole piece this week, by Elvira Masson entitled “One frig can hide another (cf the highway signs that say ”One train can hide another”) that largely relates her waiting times for the wait-person’s ministrations, etc. in one place with cheap food (4-5 € sandwiches) and plenty of ineptitude, in the gallery of what was 20 years ago, one of Paris’ refrigerated warehouses {I guess}, now converted into artists’ studios and another place hidden behind, run by one Mariko, a Japanese woman, who can fix stuff up, if you order a day ahead. The place is L’Aiguillage, 19, rue des Frigos, Gallery open 11 AM – 7 PM, Café 12:30-3, 01.45.84.52.46 and the Maison des Frigos, Mariko, is at 01.44.23.76.20 {It sounds like one of these goofy Dans le noir experiences, but with lighting.}

Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks to the new Italian place near the Bourse - Mori Venice Bar and Philippe Toinard gave only 1/5 to Royce, coordinates in last week’s Figaroscope, a place that serves mixed cuisine in a mixed-up way.

In Wednesday’s Figaroscope’s “Dossier”, Gilles Dupuis and Colette Monsat tell you where to get twenty rare products {NB there were no “C’est nouveau” or “Hache Menu” features this week:

The most glittery

239: the Costes liqueur used in cocktails – Lafayette Gourmet

Tea flowers - Lafayette Gourmet

Finé Japanese bottled water – Colette

Edible gold – Cremant de Bourgogne

AOC Lubie white Bordeaux in an aluminum bottle – La Grande Epicerie

The most gourmet

Pride of Thailand coffee – Cafés Verlet

Red pepper – Goumanyat

Princess almonds – Granterroirs

Guerlande honey – Boutique de la famille Miery

The most rustic

Alexion drink from 52 plants – Produits des Monasteres

Cosmetic cameline oil – Boutique Codina

Pumpernickel – Boutique de Tante Emma

Wagyu Japanese beef – J.M. Le Bourdonnec

Hilds Bauer purple radishes – Joel Thiebault

The craziest

Haggis – Saveurs d’Irlande et d’Ecosse + The Gourmet Shoppe

Merlot flavored peanuts – La Grande Epicerie

Muse de France absinthe – l’Absinthe

Schlenkerela smoked beer – Au Bootlegger

Avocado-guacamole ice cream – Mister Ice

Poil de lievre rare red wine – Crus du Soleil

Ali Baba’s stores

Paris Store et Tang + Comptoir Colonial

To drink

Champagne – Trocadero Dokhan’s Sofitel Demeure

Water – Water bar

Tequila – Barrio Latino

To eat

Eel – Nodaiwa

Quenelles – Bar a soups & quenelles

Lamb – J’Go

Apples - Pomze

Oysters – l’Ecailler du Bistrot

Truffles – Terres de Truffes

Tomatoes – Rouge St Honore

Rabbit – Monsieur Lapin

Wednesday as well, Zurban’s guest critic Pierrick Jegu reviewed only one French place – Fontaine Fiacre, 8, rue Hippolyte Lebas in the 9th, 01.53.20.88.70, formulas 12.50 (weekday lunch), 21 and 27 €; a la carte about 40 € where despite what sounds like raucous music and a banal décor the food was not bad at all – foie gras, beef cheek bourguignon and iced parfait. The other restos reviewed were the tapas and bands’ place Pena Festayre in the 19th, a US-knockoff Breakfast in America 2 in the 4th and an Italian trattoria, La Forchetta in the 14th.

In Wednesday’s NYT there was an article by Melissa Clark entitled “To Lure the French, Don't Be Too Sweet” on Magrebian pastries and places to buy them in Paris, for more, please see this thread started by ludja.

Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribaut discussed the fact that oysters rarely have etiquettes that show the date they were caught/harvested. He also had an article on a new sort of oyster (pioneered in the USA) that is consistent in firmness, etc., throughout all four seasons (esp. in July & August) and will be served in all 14 of the Flo brasseries but not at Le Divellec.

Thursday in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud featured the 60 year old Chez Etienne in Marseille as well as reviewing a real find - the Symples de l'os à moelle in Issy (coordinates given before), where in a tiny (no bigger than a pocket handkerchief ) table d’hote place, they serve up a panoply of hors-d'œuvres (céleri rémoulade, sliced carrot, coco beans, sausage or country terrines and potatoes with vinegar) followed by beef cut from big chucks and cheese straight from the farm, plus desserts such as crumbles, tarts and cakes.

Also Thursday, in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski served up his familiar array: he suggests following Caviar House Prunier + Les Muses at the Scribe Hotel, finds Chiberta + Lipp in good shape and touts three places in alpine ski country - L'Atelier in Megeve, Le Belvédère in Méribel and La Bouitte in St Martin de Belleville. He also notes what others have already announced – that the Relais du Parc has a menu composed by both Ducasse and Robuchon. In addition, he writes about the pates at Feyel-Artzner in Strasbourg and gives a recipe for goose foie gras in brioche.

Rosa Jackson, in her “Paris Bites” in Paris Notes, in her graceful way, wrote a review of Drouant, coordinates given already, where she loved the 4-some starter, “four corners of the world” and main of crunchy pork belly; but not the chocolate desserts, and sums up saying she’ll not head back there as quickly as to Westerman’s other Parisian outpost Mon Vieil Ami {FYI my review here is a bit more enthusiastic and I have been and will be back}. For those so inclined she also gives a nice recounting of the Omnivore Food Festival, held recently in Le Havre (to read it one must subscribe here.)

From Time Out Paris comes word that Alain Ducasse has asked Angelo Sosa, the American fusion chef this summer to Spoon.

Amber Garrison, in her Postcards from Paris, had a piece on the Café Ventilo, near the Madeleine, upstairs from the store itself, with a formula at 25 and menu at 39 € serving lightish food such as salmon and curried chicken.

The April 2006 Conde Nast Traveler had an article by Roland Tec on Cannes in which he touted the following: Da Laura, Xuan, La Cave, La Pizza, l’Escale, Taverne Lucullus, 4U, Caffé Capri + Fellini the latter three for “late night” drinks, expressi and gelatti respectively.

As was reported last week in Figaroscope Gregory Couanceau has left Le Cou de la Girafe replaced by “the talented chef” Frederic Claudel, ex-Poele d’Or and according to lesrestos.com his new menu features beautiful fish and beef cheeks with carrots.

The English publication GoGo Paris, supplied to me by Fresh_a, has several reviews of largely new places, specifically of Sens which delivers good quality and value, of La Famille, serving over-priced and tricky food {my views exactly}, Le Pamphlet, which served slow food at too fast a pace, the Table d’hote du Palais Royal aka Caroll Sinclair, serving organic ingredients in a romantic setting, La Cantine du Faubourg, which has revamped itself as a performance art/resto under a new chef and Cabaret, 2 pl du Palais Royal in the 1st, 01.58.62.56.25, open Tuesday-Saturday 8-10:30 PM, for mediocre and expensive food.

This week Expatica featured an article by Rosa Jackson on “Le Fooding” concluding that it’s “sweeping France and replacing the formality of traditional French cooking with a more feel-good approach.”

Back a ways (March 19th), the London Telegraph had an article saying “Stop kidding yourselves: France still has better restaurants, says Michel Roux” by David Harrison.” It was in part in response to the buzz that London had passed Paris (and NYC) as “the” food place. Roux, an “anglophile who describes himself as "50-50 French-English in my heart", said food in Paris was "better quality and better value for money". He said he had eaten at “at two Parisian restaurants last week, both "just below one Michelin star level", and paid €75 and €80 for two.” {Humm, like to know what they were.} He said that “French ingredients were fresher because they were produced locally and sold in markets, whereas much of the food in England has been transported for many miles.” FYI, Marcus Wareing, trained by the Roux’s and now head chef at the Savoy, added some spice to the discussion, saying "London and New York live in the modern world whereas Paris is stuck in a time warp, its restaurants are less inventive." Source: Articles about dining in France.

Sunday’s New York Times had an article by Caren Osten Gerszberg on a weekend in Avignon with children that touted the following places: Le Pili, le Bistrot des Arts, La Regence + le Festival des Glaces, the latter two a café and ice cream place respectively.

Finally Sunday, Bonjour Paris had an article by John Talbott entitled “The Culinary Children of Christian Constant.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited April 3, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of April 3rd, 2006

Monday, Le Fooding, Julia Sammut announced that Jean-Luc Rabanel had left la Chassagnette to open his own restaurant Chez Rabenel in Arles.

Tuesday, A Nous Paris awarded two restaurants 4/5 blocks. The first was l’Escarbille, 8, rue de Velizy in Meudon, coordinates given last week, where they price the menu-carte at 35 but note cleverly that the train adds 4,10 €. It was again judged a terrific meal with scallops, lamb and a sable. The other is well-regarded Stella Maris, coordinates in the guides, which garnered its first Michelin star this year and where they judged there to be no faults; menus are 43 (lunch), 85 and 130 €, a la carte 94-139.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope’s C’est nouveau, Emmanuel Rubin gave three and two hearts respectively to two Italian places l’Altro in the 6th and Piccola Brescia in the 20th and two hearts each to the creole place La Table de Babette in the Jamin space at 32, rue de Longchamp in the 16th, 01.45.53.00.07, closed Sundays, lunch menu at 34 € and dinner 39 plus an a la carte menu costing about 50 serving creole sausage, stuffed crab and bananas flambéed; the new chef’d Au Cou de la Girafe, coordinates given before, serving crab, beef and petits pots and Le Queniau, 150 rue de Vaugirard in the 15th, 01.47.34.48.23, closed Sundays, serving a terrine with lentils, coq au vin and baba all for about 30-40 € (13.9 € lunch formula though).

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” covers seafood places, some of which have recently opened. They are:

Gaya

Jarrasse

144 Petrossian

Cap Vernet

Le Saint Amour, 8, rue du Port Mahon in the 2nd, 01.47.42.63.82, closed Sundays, menu 32, entrée-main 26, main-dessert 23 €

Vin & Maree

Boulogne Sur Mer.

In that light, Francois Simon’s “Hache Menu” reviewed Gregory Coutanceau’s new place l’Escale, coordinates given above. The bottom line – “Should you go? “Not for an insipid, bumpy 137,50 € meal.

Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribaut announced that the 60-year-old famed resto in Baumaniere, l’Oustau has been taken over by two Pakistanis.

Wednesday as well, Zurban’s guest critic Pierrick Jegu reviewed Christophe, 8, rue Descartes in the 5th, 01.43.26.72.49 open 7/7, lunch and dinner, lunch formulas at 12, 16 and 19 €, a la carte 35-40, run by a 26 year old chef M. Philippe, who serves good product such as basque pork, boudin nems, lamb shoulder, chocolate mousse; not perfect he says but worth a retry. His restos in the casserole include a fusiony (Zen cuisine a la Francaise they say) place Namiki, 46, rue Croix des Petits Champs, closed Sundays and Mondays, lunch formula at 15, a la carte 40 € where the team and food sound pretty Japanese to me, La Cave Café, 134, rue Marcadet in the 18th which has in addition to lots of wines by the half-liter from 10 € up, sardine ceviche, lamb steak and pork mignon for 20-25 € a la carte and Boulogne sur Mer coordinates given before, the seafood in Boulogne place open only at lunch that serves a superb selection of oysters and other fish.

Thursday in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud discussed the patisserie/tea salon La Petite Marquise, 50 avenue de la Motte-Piquet in the 15th, 01.47.34.94.03 which also serves wine, quiche, pizza and three mains (beef, chicken, veal) for 10 € ! {exclamation point his} and L'Aubergade near Clermont-Ferrand.

Also Thursday, in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski has his usual pot-pourri of stuff; in Paris, reviews of a new mezze resto on the first floor of Galeries Lafayette run by Andreas Mavromatis – Laurier, 40, bd Haussmann in the 9th, 01.48.78.54.68, a la carte = 25 € and two Italian places, La Pizetta in the 11th and Mori in the 2nd; finds Fouquet’s and the Restaurant du Marche in fine fettle and outside, reviews the fusion place Le Blue Bay in Monte Carlo, La Maison Carrier in Chamonix and La Belle en Cuisse in Val Thorens; and finally gives a recipe for kouign-amann and where (Riguidel) to get it in Quiberon.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesnes in Les Echos wrote of “Boboland” in Montorgueil, discussing the established places L'Escargot Montorgueil + Aux Crus de Bourgogne, the Thai place Silk & Spice and two Italian ones, Little Italy + Il Tre.

The weekend’s FT had an article by Nick Landers on Benoit, coordinates already given, essentially saying that he still likes it.

Finally Sunday, Bonjour Paris had an article by Margaret Kemp entitled “A cup of tea and good gossip buzz” about the new book by Gilles Brochard called Le Guide du The a Paris and one by John Talbott entitled “The Culinary Children of Christian Constant.”

May’s FRANCE magazine, the UK one, had an article on Lille that suggested l’Huitriere, La Cave aux Fioles + Flam’s.

This week Expatica featured an article on “cool bars, ” mentioning: Le Mange-Disque, 58, rue de la Fontaine-au-Roi in the 11th, Rosso Cafe, 4, bis rue Neuve-Popincourt in the 11th, La Perle, 78, rue Vielle du Temple in the 3rd, the Ice Bar, 1-5 passage Ruelle in the 18th and Le Bar Ourcq, 68, Quai de la Loire in the 19th.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of April 10th, 2006

Tuesday, A Nous Paris’s Jerome Berger reviewed the Italian place l’Altro and Philippe Toinard gave 4/5 blocks to the recently-starred Jean (apparently because it changed its name from Chez Jean last December), 8, rue St Lazare in the 9th, 01.48.78.62.73, menus from 36-78, a la carte 49-67 €, serving tete de veau, leeks vinaigrette and baba as well as an interesting sounding surf (rouget) and turf (andouillette). Francois Lemarie had an article in the same issue on the move of French cuisine from gastronomy through bistronomy to fooding and lists as Parisian bistronomic places: La Cerisaie, Le Temps au Temps, Fogon St-Julien, Le Comptoir du Relais St German + Ripaille as well as these outside the City of Light(s): Jouni, Le Café des Epices, En mets fais ce qu’il te plait, Les Magnolias, Auberge de Chavannes + Une Auberge en Gascogne.

Wednesday’s Zurban featured the return of Sebastien Demorand to the “Tables” Section. His primary space was devoted to the new “resthotel” Kub, 1-5, passage Ruelle in the 18th, 01.42.05.20.00, open everyday 7 PM to midnight, with a menu at 39 €. {Most of my comments have to be editorial: it’s the place with the ice bar that appears to be a Murano knock-off but is sure located in a strange part of town, indeed on my running route and sounds horrid.} Demorand’s subtitles are “Finger Food….ou Junk Food?” and one of his typical dishes is “bubblegum 2 tomato mozzarella.” {Had enough?} His “casserole” contains a Lebanese place Le Cedre d’Or, a Mauritian one Comme sur une ile and another chic & cher place Black Calavados, 40, ave Pierre 1e de Serbie in the 16th, closed Sundays, a la carte about 80 €, run by a fashionista, where Russian is spoken by razor thin women and jelly-haired men, serving foie gras “popcorn,” jellied vodka and a cheeseburger of Kobe beef. Also featured was an article by Pierrick Jegu on brunch places.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope’s C’est nouveau, Emmanuel Rubin gave two stars each to three places: the “neo-bistrot” Hier & Aujourd’hui, 145, Rue Saussure in the 17th, 01.42.27.35.55, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, formula = 17 at lunch, menu 26 and a la carte 35 € {which looks and whose name is kinda cool} run by ex-Guy Savoy chef serving hot sausage {sounds terrible in translation}, scallops and chocolate crème brulee; the “refreshing” bistro Dalva, 48, rue d’Argout in the 2nd, 01. 42.36.02.11, closed {you guessed it} Saturday lunch and Sundays, with lunch formulas at 14 and 18 € and 40 a la carte, serving escargots with watercress, langoutine raviolis, scallops and a Charlotte with a “rare” wine for dessert but/with “impish” service – {huh?}; and a nouvelle cuisine place Les Chineurs {don’t bother to look it up – Andre Malraux, whose memorial service in the court of the Louvre I stumbled on in 1976 – was described as a chineur = one who “roots around in the brocantes looking for stuff”}, 55, rue de Bretagne in the 3rd, 01.42.78.64.50, closed Mondays, costing “ouch” {sic} 50 € for milk fed pork, sole, St Pierre and tiramisu with fruit (“too complicated” they say). Then they review and give one heart to the Cafe des Roses, 1 rue de Vintmille in the 9th, no telephone, serving everyday til midnight with a formula at 5,90 € (Wow, cf above), musical brunch 13,90 and a la carte 10-25 for a tartare terrine, herrings with potatoes etc and roasted camembert, and Le Drapeau, 10, rue du Temple in the 4th, 01.42.72.02.88 also open everyday, costing 15-25 € for an Auvergnat “pie,” beef with carrots and strawberry tarte {sounds OK to me, why did he/they hate it so?}

Here is the “Dossier” this week, {a bit strange but hey}, all about grains, that’s right, cereals, fiber, etc:

Semolina Waly Fay

Corn soup Sens par la Compagnie des comptoirs

Coconut milk polenta Angl’Opera

Wheat couscous Wally le Saharien

Bulgar wheat Liza

Barley couscous Mansouria

Sauteed rice noodles (pasta) Le Petit Thiou

Tuna steak with four cereals Bioboa

Sprout Salad Spoon

A cereal bowl Murano

Black wheat Sarrasin

And of course, Francois Simon chimes in on the theme and reviews Biotifull {which no self-respecting American will ever go to, because of the dreadful name, despite the great food (they tell me)} where he ate a mache salad, the quinoa (which he notes is not a grain but a plant), a lemon chicken and three papales {whatever they are} for 50,50 € for 2; the answer to “Should One Go” is “Nobody is Perfect.” {Oouf!}

Wednesday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote a sad article about the Tour d’Argent and its history of the numbered ducks, periodic gains and losses of stars, including the current destabilization and stroke suffered by Claude Terrail and calls it the Musée Grevin of Paris Restaurants.

Thursday, Gilles Pudlowski in Le Point, favorably reviews La Cambuse in Strasbourg, Bruno Cirino’s Hostellerie Jerome in La Turbie, Le Central in Cap-Ferret and Il Lago in Geneva as well as the following in Paris: two new places: the franco-transalpine Café Buci and the Indian Old Jawad, as well and noting that two established places are in good shape – Montparnasse 25 + La Closserie des Lilas. His products of the week are Coquilles St Jacques from Erquy, available by law in France from only May 15th to the end of September (but you can get them from Scotland and Ireland then) and as usual he gives a recipe, this time for scallops in cider.

Thursday in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud covers his usual two places in and outside Paris respectively: Le Bis de Severo, coordinates given before, which he says succeeds and La Bastide de Saint Tropez in Saint Tropez.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesnes in Les Echos wrote of restaurants in the Basque Country, specifically in Bayonne: L'Auberge du Cheval Blanc + François Miura, in Anglet: La Concha, in Bidart: La Table des Frères Ibarboure, and in Biarritz: La Maison Blanche, Les Platanes + Sissinou.

In the Saturday-Sunday Figaro, dated April 1-2, the food page was devoted to cocktails/bars in Paris. Alexandra Michot wrote an article suggesting several, best found here. Then are listed the top five of these: Dokhan’s, Vino’s, Bar du restaurant Apicius, Le Murano + Le Bar Hemingway. In addition, she talks of the feminization of cocktails by making them pink-rose. Also, Francois Simon in his “Croque Notes,” writes that several diners complained (on his private line 01.57.08.55.19) about Marc Meneau’s resto in Vezeley and his (Meneau’s) retort on his blog that such folks should stick to bistros rather than frequent three-star restaurants; he then goes on to say that some chefs remain interesting and are in no way boring, citing Pierre Gagnaire, especially for his bar de ligne for 90 €; and finally he provides his response to a chef or owner’s plaint that Simon hadn’t reviewed Machon, 16, rue Commines in the 4th, 01.42.74.57.09, lunch menu = 12 €, saying as a result he hopped in a cab and tried the “jolly-good” gratin of ecrevisses, correctly cooked fish and tiramisu that disappeared in 12 spoonfuls.

A week later (April 8-9,) Francois Simon wrote an almost full-page article on “What chefs and we should keep and what everyone should toss.” He suggests keeping: the Michelin but improving it to pare down some of the interchangeable starred places and include foreign places and bistrots; the crazy chefs who push the envelope with nutty stuff which occasionally astonishes; new trends such as Fooding, Slow Food and Gen C; the bistro spirit where it’s really happening with lively, simple and good fare; the trends coming from elsewhere, e.g. Mori from Venice, but also influences from Osaka, Ho Chi Minh City, Yunan, Milan and Sardinia; and finally lighter food that allows one to keep fit. As for what to chuck, he suggests: complicated desserts; multiple seatings; sycophantic reviews; the deluge of amuse bouches justifying elevated prices; pre-desserts; the “absurd” checks that in some places run 2-3 times what they did 15 years ago when they were just 800 FF (=121 € = $150); the price of bottled water running to 7.60 € for a bottle of Chateldon at a brasserie in Clermont-Ferrand and the raised eyebrows of waiters when one orders a simple carafe of water; and smoking, so you don’t leave restos with your clothing stinking. In his accompanying “Croque Notes” Simon relates a reader’s complaint of a lamentable business meal at Gagnaire and his (Simon’s) dislike for his (Gagnaire’s) piling on extra dishes – his rule - eat only what one orders, a starter, main & dessert; his observation is that businessmen from the table-top up are dignified but underneath are twisted up and constantly-twitching; and finally his recommendation to try La Dinee in the 15th where he loved the asparagus, pigeon and l’os a moelle. In this issue they also printed an announcement of an exhibition of Doisneau’s gourmet photos of things food related in Monaco and three mini-book-reviews of: the historic Dictionnaire universal de cuisine practique by Joseph Favre (Editions Omnibus, 32 €), first published a century ago, the playful Mots de Cuisine by Emmanuelle Maisonneuve and Jean Claude Renard (Editions Buchet Chastel, 24 €) and the technical Le Dictionnaire des mots de la cuisine by Guy Martin of Grand Vefour (Editions de Seuil, 18,90 €).

And this week, Alexandra Michot did a piece on female chefs, largely in France but from Norway, South Africa and Spain as well. She notes that the two books on them are now one and two years old respectively: Michele Duby’s Les Femmes Chefs and Gilles Pudlowski’s Elles sont chefs. The list is pretty well-known; it included: Helene Darroze, Roughi Dia of Petrossian, Hermance Carro, star of TV’s M6 Tuesdays at 8:50 PM (sort of a daughter of Cyril Lignac’s “Oui Chef”), Caroline Rostang of l’Absinthe + Jarrasse, Fumiko Kono of Fauchon, Celia Jiminez of Chez Lafayette Gourmet, the women writers who make Cordon Bleu recipes available to those cooking at home – Julie Andrieu, Sophie Dudemaine & Trish Deseign {where pray tell is our own Ptit Pois aka Sophie Brissaud?}, Anne Sophie Pic, Chez Catherine Guerraz, Mari Tanaka at Alain Ducasse, Gabrielle Jones - young chef winner of the 2006 award, Flora Mikula, and Reine Sammut of the cooking school Le Passage. Tucked into the bottom of the page is the news that Nadege Varigly, ex-La Regalade, opens his new place le Ri Boul Dingue, 10, rue St Julien le Pauvre in the 5th; menu carte at 25 €, at the end of April. {I’m not sure what Ri Boul Dingue means, but ribouldingue means binge; maybe the message is it’s a binge in three courses?}

Sunday, in the JDD, Chef Eric Maio of the Auberge des Fontaines d’Aragon in Montauroux chose as his two favorite, affordable restos in Paris the Italian Deitaly and Les Fils de la Ferme , coordinates already given. In addition, they had a front page story on Ferran Adria’s being voted best chef of the year by the British publication Restaurant. See also what eGullet members had to say here. Also, Astrid de T’Serclaes had two reviews the their magazine Femina; one of the now well-publicized Italian place Mori Venice Bar, the other of the deli-restaurant Il Giramondo, also Italian.

Finally Sunday, Bonjour Paris had an article by Margaret Kemp entitled “10 Top Chocolate Makers Buzz” and one by John Talbott entitled “The Hot New Quarters – 4th and 16th.”

Issue #24 of Omnivore arrived this week and was largely devoted to OFF, the (Omnivore Food Festival 2006 {in English no less}) held in Le Havre the 20-21 February. The cover photo pretty much says it all, showing Omnivore’s favorites: Thierry Marx of Cordellian-Bages, Veronique Abadie of l’Amphitryon {who had a really frightening hair day), Gilles Choukroun of Angl’Opera, Alain Ducasse, Fulvio Pierangelini of Gambero Rosso, Jacques Maximin of the Table d’Amis, Michel Bras and Ferran Adria of El Bulli. Inside are a ton of terrific photos largely by Luc Dubanchet (Editor) and descriptions of cooking demos with miked chefs, adoring crowds, smiling chefs (Jouni Tormanen, Pascal Barbet of l’Astrance, Jean Francois Piege of Les Ambassadeurs, David Zuddas of L'Auberge de La Charme, Flora Mikula, Michel Portos of Hauterive Saint-James , Antoine Westerman & Anthony Clemot of Drouant + Mon Vieil Ami, Pierre Hermé, Alexandre Bourdas of Sa.Qua.Na, Jean Marie Baudic of Le Youpala and Nicolas Pourcheresse of the Auberge des Chavannes. {Now, some of this sounded a bit over the top, like Adria’s cooking a mussel in three seconds or the Pacoclean/Pacojet demo featuring a cuttlefish “hot dog,” but the fact that the first listed wine-maker is Catherine Breton, one of my favorites, convinced me it’s not all outré.} Then there is the inevitable “Manifesto,” this from Adria himself {that in truth doesn’t sound much different from what Alice Waters or Thomas Keller would espouse.} Four young chefs are featured: Samuel Desjobert of Rive Gauche, Gregory Rodriguez of Gimm Traiteur, Maximin Hellio of La Voile d’Or and Christophe of Une Table. Villeroy & Boch’s Young Chefs of the Month were the Brothers Kouros of Le Verger des Kouros. Finally, there was little story of an ad appearing in the Michelin Red Guide this year {of his chapeautude Marc Veyrat.}

Amber Garrison in her Postcards from Paris discusses brunch places, including the luxury ones – Durand Dupont in Neuilly Sur Seine and the Café at the Musée Jacquemart-André, the spicy Restaurant 404, the classic Ladurée and the “more down to earth” L’Estaminet.

April’s Where had several contributions by Alexander Lobrano. The principal one concerned classic brasseries. Also, he wrote of the opening of the Caviar House & Prunier next to Caviar Kaspia, around the Madeleine, the successful take-over of l’Escargot Montogueil by a chef-owner Laurent Couegnas (PS he loved it, snails and other-than), wrote about the three new bistros in the Batignolles area: Ripaille, Bistral + l’Abadache {all three of which are (1) worth visiting and (2) quite a renaissance for the sleepy 17th}, and the awarding of Michelin stars to two of his favorites – Stella Maris + Chez Jean. And then there are the photo/blurb inserts {which one is never sure if he (like Demorand) or his editor chose} that include: Ze Kitchen Galerie, Cinq Mars, Il Cortile, Benoit + Chiberta.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of April 17th, 2006

In Le Fooding, Monday, the restaurant heralded by Yann Siliec is le Petit Hôtel du Grand Large in Quiberon.

Tuesday’s A Nous Paris had a profile (no rating, no review of food) by Philippe Toinard of Fumiko Kono, Japanese-born chef at Fauchon where she serves up a 39 € menu at lunch.

Tuesday’s Le Figaro had notes on three ways to have food vacations – Le Bottin Gourmand’s new website featuring food trips that looks kind of interesting altho spare right now; a book called Vacances Gourmands by Astrid Latapie about finding stages and classes throughout France (Albin Michel, 10 €), from a medieval meal in Vienne to a vegan one in the Ariege to studying with Ducasse and Bocusse; and in Marseilles, a young chef at Le Miramar will teach you the secrets of making bouillabaisse at 110 € a pop.

The same day, Metro, reported on a book called Le Grandgousier Ile-de-France: guide de vente directe et des products du terroir by Pierre Jean Sugier and Nicolas Peltier (Les editions du 4, 19 €,) that purports to have 150 producers listed (I assume that will sell to you directly). N.B. Metro says it is published in French, English and German, but I cannot find it on Amazon.fr, only Amazon.com.

Wednesday, Figaroscope’s Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est nouveau” featured five one-heart restos: an African place Moussa l’Africain in the 19th, a club sandwich/cheese cake dinette called Gilda, 73 bis, ave Niel in the 17th, 01.42.27.42.20, open everyday, the “pocket bistro” Roger La Grenouille, 26-28, rue des Grands-Augustins in the 6th, 01.56.24.24.24, closed Sundays, serving a terrine of ox tail, grenouilles and French bread for 40-50 €, menus = 24 and 32 €, a Boulogne place in the 92nd Dept Cap Seguin, opposite 27, quai Le Gallo, 01.46.05.06.07, open everyday for about 40 €, for a trio of tomatoes, beef pepper style and Quatrehomme cheese, and in the exTante Jeanne spot, the brasserie-lounge Villa Pereire, 116, bd Pereire in the 17th, 01.43.80.88.68, open everyday, offering pumpkin soup, entrecote and nems of nutrela and banana for 40 €, menu at 24.50 €.

The “Dossier” this week covered things milky:

Oreo milk-shake Le Tourville

Iles Flottantes Bistro Paul Bert

Raisin pudding Why Not

Crème pots l’Affriole

Lassi with mango Old Jawal

Hot chocolate Bar chocolat du Tokyo Eat a Jean Paul Hevin “ephemeral” thing

Caramel crèmes Salon de the Fauchon

Caramel variations Thierry Burlot

Panna cotta Point Bar

Cheese plate La Fromagerie 31

And also La Ferme.

Francois Simon, to follow the theme, ate at the Rose Bakery, coordinates given before where he urges you to go for breakfast for 49.50 € for two for yogurt, green apples and muesli.

Wednesday as well, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban reviewed the Italian place l’Altro, as well as a “girl food” (eg crepes) place called A l’Ouest, 33, rue Saint Sebastien in the 11th, 01.47.00.66.12, closed Sundays and Mondays, lunch formula = 11 €, a la carte 15-18 €; the retro but new Hier & Aujourd'hui, coordinates given last week, where he enjoyed the oeuf mayo, terrine maison, tuna with leeks, entrecote and rice pudding; and the place he called a failed bistro, the Casque d’Or, 17, rue Saint Blaise in the 20th, 01.43.73.33.09, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday night, lunch menu at 14 and a la carte 30-32 €.

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut had an article on why tomatoes have lost their taste, presaging a piece on ARTE Monday night April 24 at 7 PM; plus another on cooking with truck farmed produce; mentioning three individuals in particular: Joël Thiébault at the Alma market, Jean Zay at Levallois Perret (Weds and Sat AM’s), and Jean-Marc Defresne at the Henri-Barbusse market in Levallois, (Tues, Fri & Sun AM’s) as well as the Argenteuil market (Weds & Sat AM’s.)

Thursday in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud reviews in Paris Le Bis de Severo, coordinates given already, where he really liked the minced cuttlefish, boudin noir, crisp and marinated fish of the Asiatic chef - Shigeno Makoto and in St Tropez – La Bastide de St Tropez. {This is an error repeating last week's reviews; please see next week for the correction.}

Thursday, in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski presented his traditional mixture of items; a review of a new bistro near Nation, l’Eglantine, 21, rue Fabre d'Eglantine in the 12th, 01.44.67.73.40, lunch menu at. 15 €, a la carte 30 for oeuf mayo, charcuteries, foie gras and exquisite meat. He also notes that the following are in good shape: Balzar, Sormani + Le Duc but Il Settimo is in trouble. Outside Paris he mentions the Taverne Katz in Saverne (and gives Suzy Schmidt’s recipe for a timbale of chicken), the Torre del Remei in Bolvir de Cerdanya, Spain, Le Barbue d'Anvers in Lille and De Karmeliet in Bruges.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesnes in Les Echos wrote of walking like a flaneur and eating along the left bank of the Seine at Le Tour d’Argent now with the #2 chef at the ovens, La Rôtisserie du Beaujolais, Fogon, La Pérouse + Le Voltaire.

In the Saturday-Sunday Figaro, dated April 1-2, the food page was devoted to places that serve high class but lighter fare written by Francois Simon, who seems to have taken this niche on as a crusade. He mentions (in Paris): Cristal Room, Colette, Senderens, Le Georges, La Galerie du Plaza, Le Murano, Le Kong, Delicabar + Le Salon d’Helene and Hi Food in Nice. However, he then goes on to mention in a short column the un-light – l’Ambassade de l’Auvergne in Paris, Zucca Magica in Nice and la Maison Baron Lefevre in Nantes. Simon, who wrote well in his book about keeping one’s weight under control, gives several tips here: (1) avoid bread, (2) take your time and eat like a Buddhist, savoring say, rice, grain by grain, (3) inhale, relax, (4) have but a main course and treat it royally, (5) avoid dessert, (6) skip an aperitif and have but one glass of white wine, (7) eat veggies abundantly, (8) avoid sauces, (9) have steak au poivre but once a week, (10) don’t clean your plate, but above all have a good time; just eat a bit less. Finally, his Croque Notes concern places in or near Etretat: the restaurant Du Golf, le Picrocole + l’Auberge de la Grenouilliere.

Sunday, in the JDD, Guy Guilloux of La Taupiniere in Pont Aven picked his favorite reasonably-priced Paris places: Daru + l’Azalee. In addition, Astrid de T’Serclaes reviewed Prunier, Caviar House coordinates given before in the Sunday mag - Version Femina. Finally five books were briefly reviewed, our own Ptipois (Sophie Brissaud)’s La Table Vegetale 32 €, chez Minerva, Jean Paul Hevin’s Delices de chocolat 30 €, chez Flammarion, Chez Catherine Guerraz’s Les delices de Chez Catherine 29.90 €, editions Solar, Bruno Oger’s Passion Café 40 €, chez Jean Claude Gawsewitch, and Marie Leteure and Frederiques Marcombes’ Mes petits plats pour bebe 18 €, editions Solar.

Finally Sunday, Bonjour Paris had an article by Margaret Kemp entitled “Chicken or Egg Buzz” and one by John Talbott entitled “How do you stay so fit?”

Edited by John Talbott to correct l'Express reviews.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited April 29, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of April 24th, 2006

Sunday’s New York Times featured an article by Elaine Sciolino on affordable places in expensive cities that mentioned Le Troquet’s 38 € 6-course tasting menu and 30 € 3-course menu.

Monday, Le Fooding’s Elvira Masson announced that Inaki Aizpitarte, ex-La Famille & still at Transversal and Fred Peneau of the Café Burq have indeed re-opened le Chateaubriand. {Editor’s Note: a little birdie told me things are not humming yet and one should perhaps wait a bit. My experience, granted limited, is that Aizpitarte excels for a while once things settle down, then gets restless and things go to pot. We’ll see.}

Tuesday’s A Nous Paris had an article labeled Little Big Places and why one should think of them:

Benoit for lunch with Mom and Pop

Gaya for an amorous dinner

Fogon for a dinner after a show

Le Relais du Parc for a business lunch.

Wednesday, Figaroscope’s Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est nouveau” gave two-hearts to three places, the Italian Tartufo in the 1st, the African Le Chari in the 3rd, and the “haunted” Au Bascau, coordinates well-known in the 3rd, lunch formula 18, a la carte 40 €, resuscitated yet again by an ex of Lucas Carton who serves a salad of bulots, axoa of veal {it’s a Basque place recall,} and tarts that were “all sugar.” He gave one heart to Les Bonnes Soeurs, another Italianate place in the 3rd and a broken plate to the Café Chic in the 8th.

The “Dossier” this week discussed meat places but was deceptively entitled “Business Restaurants:”

Le Titi parisien

Steak & Lobster

l’Ascot

Boucherie Rouliere

Devez

Le Galacher

Severo, the place that on page 2 they urge you to run to

La Mascotte

Le Griffonnier and also:

La Tour L

Le Café du Commerce

As always, Francois Simon’s “Hache Menu” was in the same groove, covering Meating that he says you should go to if you’re dying of hunger and live in the area.

Wednesday as well, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban reviewed Les Délices du Shandong in the 13th in his big space as well as a Japanese place in the 1st - Zen, another Italian place in the 6th – Les Amis de Messina and La Bonne Table, 94, rue des Martyrs in the 9th, 01.46.06.50.73, open only for dinner with a formula at 19.50 and a la carte about 45 €, for everything from onion soup to escargots, veal Marengo to scallops provencal, and from an impeccable pate de tete with lentils to ray with cherry vinegar: in other words, pretty old school, all of it.

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut had two articles: one on the “primeurs” of Bordeaux that he described as full of equilibrium, the other on the “affair” of adding oak chips.

Thursday, ParuVendu published mini-reviews of restos with a view:

Georges

La Maison Blanche

Le Benkay

Kong

Le Ziryab

Le Chene Vert

Hotel Raphael and names and coordinates for several others:

La Tour d’Argent

Le Jules Verne

Altitude 95

Le Relais de Sevres

Le Ciel de Paris

Les Jardins de Camille.

Thursday in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud reviewed Chez Serge in St Ouen at 7, bvd Jean Jaures, 01.40.11.06.42 with a 30 € menu for superb food (he compares it with the Ritz + Plaza) such as herring, terrines, confited duck and wines every whichway. His second review was of the Bistrot Paul Bert, coordinates well-known, that he says all Paris is talking about. Last week I incorrectly repeated the reviews from the week before: they should have been of Les Crayeres in Rouen, which is a “rave review,” and the Brasserie de la Porte Dauphin, 55 ave Bugeaud in the 16th, 01.45.53.79.90, that specializes in aligot from the Aveyron plus simple fare such as oeuf mayonnaise and confit de canard.

Thursday, in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski presented his by now familiar mix of things: a bunch of places in Paris whose coordinates are either in the guidebooks or have been given before, including: a glowing review of La Ferrandaise, where he calls the 30 € menu a godsend/windfall, suggests we follow the new team at the Bistrot des Soupirs, which has a lunch menu of 15 €; says both Le Dome + Bistrot Paul Bert, are in good shape, but that La Mascotte is in trouble. He also reviewed Le Temps de vivre, with its good fish items in Roscoff; an Italian place Acquarello in Munich and suggests we buy monkfish from Ofimer, 76-78, rue de Reuilly in the 12th and barbeque it according to a recipe he gives; and finally, that we purchase our Mozart balls (chocolate, marzipan & pistachio) from Fürst (the originals inventor/maker of them), Alter Markt & Brodgasse, in Salzbourg.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesnes in Les Echos suggests several places in Beziers: the Octopus, La Maison de Campagne, Barba + l’Ambassade.

Saturday in the WSJ there was a box entitled “Eating out” with several epicerie-restaurants briefly written up by Jane Sigal : including

Da Rosa

Granterroirs

Pomze

La Cremerie

Les Vivres.

Finally Sunday, Bonjour Paris had an article by Margaret Kemp entitled “Two Hot Tips” about Cou de la Girafe + Café de la Paix and one by John Talbott entitled “Writing restaurant reviews.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of May 1st, 2006

Monday, Le Fooding’s Elvira Masson announced the opening of Chef Claver, ex of Camdeborde’s Comptoir’s new place called Ribouldingue (binge) in the ex-Fogon space at 10, rue St Julien le Pauvre in the 5th, 01.46.33.98.80, closed Sundays that serves a menu-carte at 25 € with such items as a gratin of old comte on endives, Spanish ham, foie gras and good desserts.

Tuesday’s A Nous Paris’s entire page on food was devoted to Inaki Aizpitare’s new venture with Fred Peneau – the rejuvenated Chateaubriand, 129, av Parmentier in the 11th, 01.43.57.45.95, closed Sat lunch, Sundays and Mondays, lunch formulas 14 & 18, dinner 30 & 35€ where they especially liked the dorade ceviche, poire mure and bio wines from Chapeau Melon,

Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban devoted his major space to a review of the renewed Au Bascou, coordinates well known, where he had a so-so meal in this Southwest bastion of a fricassée of snails with ham, an onglet of veal with carrots and orange and duck breast with beans. His casserole reviews included: So Rice, 90, rue Desnouettes in the 15th, 01.45.30.30.45, that he calls a “concept place” that serves nothing but rice and bochettes, a la carte 20€; a “schizo bistrot” Le Charlain, 23, rue Clauzel in the 9th, 01.48.78.74.40, closed Sundays that has a 16 € lunch menu (32€ a la carte) for 60’s décor and food such as a big slice of terrine and warm entrecote and less warm andouillette, served not quite right; and Spoon where he had American chef Angelo Sosa’s cooking.

Wednesday, in Le Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin’s C’est Nouveau reviewed and gave three hearts to Inaki Aziparte & Fred Peneau’s renovated Chateaubriand, 129, ave Parmentier in the 11th, 01.43.57.45.95, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays with a formula at 14, a la carte 25-35€ for beets, Viet Namese beef noodle (soup), mashed bananas, etc. He awarded two hearts to the Japanese Zen in the 1st and one heart each to a Lebanese place Le Cedre d’Or in the 3rd, an Asiatic resto Mood in the 8th and a French/Lyonnais half-bistro Cote Place, 2, rue des Francs Bourgeois the 3rd, 01.42.71.27.40, open everyday for coldcuts/sausages/pates, beef and apple tart for 30-35€.

In their “Dossier” entitled Smoking-No Smoking, Colette Monsat et al cover the waterfront of no smoking places, dividing them into several categories:

Gastronomic

Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Table du Lancaster

Spoon

Jules Verne

Bistros

L’Epi Dupin

La Cerisaie

Florimond

Stéphane Martin

Mon Vieil Ami

Le Temps au temps

Le Vin dans les voiles

La Table d’Hélène

Vegetarian and Bio

Aquarius

La Bonne Heure

Biotifull Place

Bioboa

Rose Bakery

Cojean

Eatme

Naked

Mariage Frères

Intermittently

Ploum

Domaine de Lintillac

Francois Simon this week visited Le Pre Verre coordinates well known where he loved the inventive food - a guacamole of peas and scampi, veal liver with ginger and desserts - for 105 € for two and says one must go.

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut had two articles on the 50 best chef article already discussed here as well as a piece on the Café de la Paix and its new chef, Laurent Delarbre, 35 years old, exTour d’Argent, Lasserre + Ritz, who was the “meilleur ouvrier de France” in 2004. {All are now pay for view.} You may recall that last week he had an article on the “affair” of adding oak chips. It was amplified on in the April 12th News From France that explained that the impetus for the new law of March 29th allowing wood chips/shavings was to “aid the industry financially at a time when international competition is fierce.”

I missed several book reviews and book notices in the 28 April Le Monde of the following that may be of interest to members:

Une histoire mondiale de la table : Strategies de bouche Anthony Rowley, Odile Jacob, 29.90€.

Dictionnaire universel de cuisine pratique Joseph Favre, Omnibus, 32.50€

La mort du vin Raymond Dumay, La table Ronde « La Petite Vermillion » 8.50 €

Dieu est-il gascon ? Christian Millau, Rocher, 20.90€

Rosbifs ! L’Histoire des relations anglaises au travers de la viande de bœuf Benedict Beauge, Textuel, 13€

La cuisine c’est de l’amour, de l’art, de la technique Herve This & Pierre Gagnaire, Odile Jacob, 23.90€.

The editors also announce a series by de l’Epure at 9.50€ each on one product, one area, featuring so far: Nyon olive oil, Camargue beef, as well Beaufort and Roquefort cheese. {I apologize for the lateness of this news since I’m aware one must now pay to view them; but amazon.fr has info too.}

Thursday in Le Point Gilles Pudlowski reviewed Le Pavillon des lys in Amboise, Chez Ophélia in Cap Ferret, La Verdoyante in Gassin, sea urchins from the Poissonnerie du Dôme in the 14th and a recipe for them - and in Paris: the Viet Nam resto Le Bambou in the 13th, the Italian La Tavola in La Defense; l’Arpege in the 7th, L'Etoile marocaine in the 7th and Chez Flottes in the 1st that he says is in trouble.

Thursday in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud reviewed two places: Senderens in Paris and the Hôtel Beauséjour in Calvinet. In addition, Guillaume Crouzet had an article on Fatéma Hal, who for 30 years has had the best couscous in Paris at Le Mansouria, coordinates in the guidebooks. She’s also published Le Grand Livre de la cuisine marocaine, Hachette Pratique, 25 €.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesnes in Les Echos, has written an article on the “new” bistros of springtime listing the following: the Bistro Volney, 8, rue Volney in the 2nd, 01.42.61.06.65, closed Saturday and Sundays, formula = 24 and menu 32 € with banal food but lots of wine; Le Chateaubriand, coordinates given before, where it sounds like he loved it all – fresh sardines, chicken, tuna with citrus and dried fruit, brandade and rose ice; Astier, coordinates in the guidebooks, star of the 1990’s, now in the hands of Frédéric Hubig, ex-Café Moderne serving rabbit with mustard sauce, sautéed lamb’s sweetbreads in a Punjab pepper sauce and good wine; and Le Tournesol, 2, avenue de Lamballe in the 16th, 01.45.25.95.94, open everyday for about 40 € where an ex of the Costes has taken over and serves a well-intentioned menu of an excellent rocket salad with parmesan and dried tomatoes, a bacon-cheeseburger with frites, filet with pepper sauce and lamb cocotte with almonds and cinnamon along with a short wine list.

Sunday’s New York Times Style Magazine published a brief article called “Try this at home,” by Clotilde Dusoulier on the new “resto-epiceries” in Paris: Da Rosa, Granterroirs, Les Papilles + Les Vivres, coordinates all given before.

The April-May GaultMillau has a big piece on Guy Martin of Grand Vefour, who holds a three-toque 18/20 rating; some news events in their new “Zapping” section (reported elsewhere;) five book reviews/notices (ditto); ten places in Biarritz; recipes by Bruno Dulieu, of the R Café and Jean Chauvel of les Magnolias; an article on the Ecole Lenotre; an article on whether one should eat fresh salmon; and ratings of seven Parisian raspberry-colored macaroons, in rank order: Lenotre, Laduree, Dalloyau, Paul, Picard, Fauchon + Gerard Mulot – but also rating those from Herme grandiose and from Hevin excellent.

May’s Paris Notes’s “Paris Bites” by Rosa Jackson featured two places; the first La Cerisaie, that she intentionally delayed visiting until the “hysteria” and “hype” died down and Coconnas, 2 bis Place des Vosges in the 4th, 01.42.78.58.16, owned by La Tour d’Argent and heralding a new chef, where she found the food a bit too “fussy and one dish “bland” and another “weird.”

GoGo Paris, courtesy of contributor Fresh_a, featured a couple of places this month: Au P’tit Panisse, 35 rue de Montreuil in the 11th, 01.43.71.37.90, open at lunch Mon-Fri and dinner Tue-Sat, where people look morose at their 18.50 € stuffed clams, confit de canard and desserts that aren’t “as good as they sound;” a Colombian place Mukura in the 10th and Dune, a café-bar in the 10th.

The May Conde Nast Traveler’s “Hot List” has listed the following restos: Bound, Citrus Etoile, Gaya Rive Gauche, Le Comptoir + Senderens; “hot nights:” Le Paris Paris; and “hot spas;” l’Institut de Guerlain. There was also a small pice on Dominique Bouchet giving his favorite restos as: Aida + Bistrot Melac.

Finally Sunday, Bonjour Paris had an article by Margaret Kemp entitled “Lose 15 Kilos Buzz” about Steak & Lobster + Findi and one by John Talbott entitled “French Food Follies: Update.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of May 8th, 2006

Tuesday’s A Nous Paris’s had two reviews; a 3/5 blocks for Chez Corto, coordinates given before, which Jerome Berger called a cool neighborhood cantine at lunch and where he especially liked the brandade and panna cotta {my review is here. His colleague Philippe Toinard gave only 2/5 blocks to Le Queniau, 150, rue de Vaugirard in the 15th, 0147.34.48.23, closed Sundays with a 13.90 € lunch formula and 20.90 carte. Except for a terrine of salt pork and lentils, he didn’t find much surprising here.

Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban, devoted three of his reviews to foreign food places: the Chadian Chari in the 3rd, the Thai Voyage au Siam in the 11th and the Creole Table de Babette in the 16th (the former Jamin space.) His one French place was Les Bonnes Soeurs, 8, rue du Pas de la Mule in the 4th, 01.42.74.55.80, but he didn’t much like the lukewarm, banal food even for 14 € at lunch or 28 € a la carte {I’ll be posting my review later this week.}.

Wednesday, in Le Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin’s C’est Nouveau reviewed and gave three hearts to Ribouldingue, the former second at Le Comptoir's new place at 10, rue St Julien le Pauvre in the 5th, 01.46.33.98.80, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Mondays, where chef Claver, has just reopened the Fogon space and serves a 25 € menu-carte with fare such as pig's snout, lamb’s tongue, basque tripes and lamb’s brains (yes they specialize in abats.) He gave 2 hearts to La Bonne Table, 94, rue des Martyrs in the 9th, 01.46.06.50.73, serving dinner only with a 19.50 € menu, a la carte 40 – for a fresh charlotte of goat’s cheese, stuffed tomatoes and a cote de boeuf. {I’ll be posting my reviews of both later this week.}.One heart each went to Le Carre Blanc, 62, rue Jean Jacques Rousseau in the 1st, 01.40.28.99.04, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with luncheon formulas at 15 & 18 € and about 30 at night for only passable but huge food; as well as the cosmopolitan Djam in the 10th and Italian Urbietorbi in the 2nd.

This week’s “Dossier” was devoted to Japanese places band included Zen, Kaiseki, Ploum, Aida, Azabu, Naoki, Zenzan, Kinugawa, Bizan, Sushi Kilala, + Opera Ramen and Francois Simon went to Kai. Funnily enough, Sunday, Astrid de T’Serclaes et al in the JDD had yet another list of such places.

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut had an article centered around the spices used by Olivier Roellinger in Cancale as well as the fish with which he pairs them.

Thursday in ParuVendu Pierre Rival wrote up Mood, coordinates given last week, and says for the area (the Champs-Elysees), it has an incomparable price-quality ratio, with a lunch menu at 20 € for « international food » including sushi, wok stuff, etc.

Thursday in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud reviewed two places: Le Dirigeable, 37, rue d’Alleray in the 15th, 01.45.32.01.54, menu at 16 € which he describes as a family pension but which serves daring dishes like a sabodet sausage with pureed peas. He also reviewed the Château-Hôtel du Monard in Montboucher-sur-Jabron where the chef prepares dishes that are unclassifiable.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesnes in Les Echos, wrote of a recent visit to Besancon, where he can only recommend l’Annexe because l’Avant Gout has changed hands and folks at Le Poker d’As were on vacation {that’s strange, they were the last time I went through too.}

Saturday-Sunday’s Le Figaro had an article linked to the Fraich’Attitude event with five of the best addresses for vegetables, etc - l’Alexadrin in Lyon, Le Montalembert, Bar a manger +Biotifull Place and Les pres d’Eugenie in Eugenie les Bains. Francois Simon’s “Croque notes” concerned itself with the books written by the recently deceased Thomas Zorn and the changes in prices at places like l’Oasis in La Napoule. I missed recounting last week’s 5 best caves in restos: Le Verre Vole + Garde Robe here and Vercoquin, Crieurs de Vin + La Muse Vin in Lyon, Troyes and Brest respectively. That week’s “Croque notes” also featured an appreciation of Inaki Aziparte and Frederic Peneau’s Chateaubriand {I’ll be posting my review this week}, as well as a note of the death of Michel Picard, the creator Astier + Villaret and spiritual father of Regalade, l’Os a Moelle, Bistrot Paul Bert + Baratin.

I also missed one page in my digesting last week of GoGo Paris, that reviewed Caius, coordinates in the guides, Le Reconfort, 37, rue de Poitu in the 3rd, 0.49.96.09.60, closed Saturday lunch that featured swordfish with citronelle and excellent desserts and Le Progres, 1, rue de Bretagne in the 3rd, 01.42.72.01.44, closed weekends, serving “café food at its best.”

This month’s Regal had several restaurants featured: Mirazur in Menton, La Table de Claire in Paris {that I will be posting a review on this week}and Etche Ona in St Jean Pied de Port.

Sunday, in JDD Thierry Marx of the Chateau Cordellian Bages revealed his two favorite reasonably priced places in Paris – Yakitori + Le Petit Verdot.

Finally Sunday, Bonjour Paris had an article by Margaret Kemp entitled “The new black is black” about Frederick e.Grasser Hermé’s book “Le Noir, dix facons de le préparer” and one by John Talbott entitled “From the Tables down to Mory’s to the place where ethnic dwells” about Mori Venice bar and other non-French places.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited by John Talbott to correct translation of groin to snout.

Edited June 3, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of May 15th, 2006

The Le Fooding website revealed what our own Felice has already informed us of, the ephemeral event at the Grand Palais featuring chefs such as Inaki Aizpitarte, Yves Camdeborde, Jean Francois Piege, Pascal Bardot, William Ledeuil, Jean Chauvenel, Flora Mikula, Nicolas Pourcheresse and Thierry Marx.

Monday, Le Figaro had an article on Pierre Herme about his apprenticing with the Lenotre establishment at age 14 {that I found interesting, but unfortunately, it is available for reading only in their pay for view archives}.

Monday, as well, A Nous Paris reviewed two places, giving both 3/5 blocks: Rue Balzac, 8, rue Lord Byron in the 8th, 01.53.89.90.91, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, a la carte 41-83 € where one can eat Johnny Halliday food such as crunchy langoustines (38 €), thin Johnny pasta with green olives (14 €) and baba au rhum and l’Atelier des Comperes, 56, rue Galilee in the 8th, 01.47.20.75.56, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, formula at 33 €, menu 40 € for white asparagus, monkfish and an apple tart.

Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban, devoted his lead review to the Chateaubriand, coordinates given before, where he too is admiring of Aizpitarte’s current cooking {I’ll issue a dissent soon.} Then he reviews the new Indian place – Old Jawad in the 2nd, the Asian Mood in the 8th and {the place I reviewed last month and agree 100% with Demorand on} Les Chineurs, 55, rue de Bretagne in the 3rd, 01.42.78.64.50, closed Sunday lunch and Mondays, lunch formulas = 22-28, degustation menu 49, a la carte about 50 € where he commented positively on the bread, competent waitstaff and delicious sandre.

Wednesday as well, Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaroscope gave two hearts each to the Hotel d’Amour, 8, rue de Navarin in the 9th, 01.48.78.31.80, open everyday, serving salads, cheeseburgers and cheese macaroni for 20-25 € and the Bistro Volnay, 8 rue Volney {there’s a misspelling here somewhere} in the 2nd, 01.42.61.06.65, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Mondays serving langoustines, poached egg forestiere and monkfish American {whatever that is,} for 35-40 € a la carte but menus at 24 and 32 €. There were also three one hearts: to an Italian place Les Amis de Messina in the 6th, a fastfood place Café Be in the 9th and an all rice place So Rice in the 15th.

This week’s “Dossier” was devoted to potatoes:

Gratin Dauphinois Le Café des Musees

Pommes Gaufrette Le Refectoire

Pommes Boulangere Le Café de Commerce

Pureed Potatoes Le Pere Claude

Gnocchi of Potatoes Lombardi

Truffade Le Petit Champerret

Pommes Paillasson La Rotisserie du Beaujolais

Fries Le Gavroche

Mashed Baptiste

Allumettes Relais de Venise

Radish salad and potatoes Mon Viel Ami that Westermann had lost interest in

Fish & Chips l’Alcazar

Pigs feet and puree Comptoir

And then, Francois Simon chimed in with a review of l’Ambassade d’Auvergne, coordinates well known, for their “admirable” aligot; with a sausage and two confits de canard running him 105 € for two; he says – Go.

Thursday, Gilles Pudlowski in Le Point covered: the Boucherie Roulière, 24, rue des Canettes in the 6th, 01.43.26.25.70, where a la carte is 35-40 € for classic stuff such as terrine of pork head, grilled tuna with veggies and a marquise praline with caramel; the Table de Fabrice Deverly (ex of Robuchon), 13, quai de la Tournelle in the 5th, 01.44.07.17.57, with menus at 28 for lunch and 40 € at dinner for risotto with truffles, mille-feuille of crab and tiramisu with raspberries ; declares Taillevent + Gastroquet in good shape; and raves about Eric Chavot at The Capitol in London.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesnes in Les Echos, wrote of a bunch of places around the Marche des Enfants Rouges in the third: they were: L'Estaminet, Taéko, Il Filio del Stagioni, Les Don Juan + Le Pamphlet.

Alexander Lobrano in this month’s Where featured the following: Mori Venice Bar, Spoon Food and Wine for the American chef Angelo Sosa’s appearance, Petrossian, Caviar House & Prunier, La Tour Montlhery + La Cantine du Faubourg, 105, rue du Faubourg Saint Honore in the 8th, 01.42.56.22.22 where he describes the crowd as more important than the food.

New From France, the free newsletter published by the French Embassy in Washington, had two articler of note: one about French pastries linked to religious holidays (the beignet, galette des Rois, Buche de Noel, Canele de Bordeaux and Kougelhopf) and another on the “Sweet Evolution of French pastries."

Paris Notes announced that the winner of the Grand Prix de la Baguette was Jean Pierre Cohier, 270, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in the 8th. It’s also here.

Finally Sunday, Bonjour Paris had an article by Margaret Kemp entitled “Pearl Divers Buzz” about the new restaurant Pearl in the 13th and one by John Talbott entitled “The Hot New Quarters: the 5th and the 17th.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited May 25, 2006 by John Talbott (log)