Washington's 100 Very Best Restaurants

[Busboy]

Washingtonian’s “100 Very Best Restaurants” issue is now on the stands, with new editor Todd Kliman, a sassy new format and, of course, a couple of new restaurants. It’s crisp, readable, accurate (mostly ), broader in its coverage and it understands that (casual) style is becoming the new substance.

But, more about that later. I’d like to first bow in the direction of some eGullet Society members who got the notice they deserve.

It was great seeing Brendan Cox (Chefbrendis) lift Circle Bistro into the top 100 with 2.5 stars, because he’s a fun guy to drink with, but especially because he’s great chef who cares passionately about his food. The guy talks about mushrooms with roughly the same intensity most guys talk about Angelina Jolie’s waterbed lips… or that Michael Landrum (Landrumm2000) talks about his meat. Michael’s Ray’s the Steak picked up another macaroon and now hobnobs with the elite on Boulevard des Trois Etoiles.

Mendocino Grille was overlooked last year for reasons not clear to those who’ve eaten there, but this year Jared Rager (JRage) and Chef Drew Troutman (DrewTR) got their props – and 2 stars. Sister restaurant Sonoma got a big grapy kiss for their wine list.

And, at least in this town Jose Andres -- with sidekick Steve Klc -- has more stars than Alain Ducasse: 4 for Minibar; 3 for Zaytinya; 2.5 for Oyamel; 2.5 for Atlantico; 2 for Jaleo.

Cook Pastramionrye’s Palena and server Ferhat Yacin’s (Ferostyle) Corduroy come in come in at 3.5 and 3 stars respectively, and Chef/owners Anne Amernick and Frank Ruta of Palena were named restauranteurs of the year, undoubtedle on the strength of Pastrami’s excellent chops.

And the wine list sidebar by eminence grise Don Rockwell singles out Mark Slater (MarkSommelier) of Citronelle and three guys who go both ways, playing both Chief Cook and bottle-buyer at their respective joints: John Wabeck (John W.) of Firefly, Tom Power (Tom Power) at the aforementioned Corduroy and the estimable Mr. Landrumm.

We are fortunate to have people of this caliber take part in eGullet, they all deserve our thanks and congratulations.

THE SCENE

I’ve always assumed that Kliman was brought in from the City Paper to bring readers not old enough to remember the Eisenhower Administration into the magazine’s readership. (Just for fun, look at the difference between the personals ads in the City Paper and the Washingtonian – guess which one has more people “seeking retired professional 65-75” and which has more “26yo CA transplant and SAF ISO left leaning partner in crime” ads).

Both the format and the contents seem to bear this out. Reviews in previous years read like brief essays with a lede, middle and conclusion -- tight, but classically eloquent and relatively deep on back-story. This year’s seem formatted for the miniburger generation, consisting of four minitopics running about two sentences each: “The Scene;” “What You’ll Love;” “What You Won’t” and “Best Dishes.” The writing has changed accordingly, becoming punchier and livelier.

WHAT YOU’LL LIKE

The new format makes the “where should we go tonight” flip through the magazine easier, and who can’t help loving the bitchy little “What You Won’t” section?

No cheat sheets in the magazine this year (who’s in and out, who’s stars have changed, etc), so I may be mistaken), but the list feels more diverse geographically – in and out of town -- and seems to cover a little more culinary ground, as well.

There’s been a readjustment that feels a like a needed changing of the guard. Galileo, Girard’s Place, Kinkaid’s and Vidalia all dropped from 4-star status while Minibar gained it. Komi, IndiBleu and Mourayo are in.

The new 3.5 star rating gives restaurants like Marcel’s, Palena and Komi -- which are clearly better than 3-stars like Indique or Four Sisters but aren’t quite in Citronelle’s league – recognition that they deserve.

Rock’s wine sidebar is very helpful as well. Many eGulleters are already familiar with the great lists at less-known places like Dino or Atlantico, but I’m sure the civilians out there can use the guidance. Given the amount of wine my wife and I can sock back at a meal, it’s also nice to have someone who knows what they're talking about confirm your suspicions that certain local lists are brutally overpriced.

Generally, the list feels crisp, descriptive and accurate. It appears that there has been a lot of ferment this year – I wonder if the reason they didn’t include the “who’s out” and “who lost stars” lists is that the sidebars would look like St. Tammany Parish after Katrina. But the result is that the whole guide feels feels more trustworthy than it has in years.

WHAT YOU WON’T

Perhaps a little depth has been lost, however. By leading with "The Scene," a lot of room in a short review is lost with observations like “an urbane, pea-coated crowd swigs Sancerre standing up during the inevitable wait for a table (Hank’s).” It implies a shift in emphasis, as well, one borne out by some of the ratings.

I’m hesitant to choose among Jose Andres’ children, but I can’t see rating Zaytiyna (3) above both Atlantico (2.5) and Jaleo (2) unless one is one x-ing on the beauty of the room and its inhabitants, as opposed to focused on the food.

I don’t get paid to set the star system, but it seems that at some point the causal bistros among us have to top out. I love 2 Amy’s – and agree with the review here – but I think the dining experience a pizza place where you wait in line and eat amongst chaos and t-shirted servers just isn’t at the same level as other 3-stars like Sushi-Ko, Obelisk (calling Peter Pastan!), Kinkaids, or Restaurant Eve – no matter how good the lardo is (mmmmm, lardo). And, is the 3.5 star main room at Palena really only a half-star better than the Café and its burgers? (Is the main room at Galileo really only a half-star better than the Osteria? Now, that sucks if you’re the one picking up the tab.)

Finally, at the below the 3.5 level, the half-star thing seems needlessly precise. Are Buck’s, Colorado Kitchen and Johnny’s Half Shell -- at 2.5 stars -- really ansistently and discernibly better than 2-stars like La Chaumiere, Jaleo and DC Coast? I ain’t buyin’ it.

BEST DISHES

Paradou at 2 stars. Galileo falling from 4 to 2.5.

All in all, a noticeable improvement i, as they say, mho.

Curious to hear yours – not just the format but who should be in that ain’t and should be out that’s in.

[eipi10]

"I’m hesitant to choose among Jose Andres’ children, but I can’t see rating Zaytiyna (3) above both Atlantico (2.5) and Jaleo (2) unless one is one x-ing on the beauty of the room and its inhabitants, as opposed to focused on the food."

You took the words out of my mouth. In my opinion it's downright absurd to say that Zaytinya is two notches better than Jaleo. When I see ratings like that, I think "pretentious" (because "full of shit" is impolite).

Edited January 2, 2006 by eipi10 (log)

[Busboy]

"I’m hesitant to choose among Jose Andres’ children, but I can’t see rating Zaytiyna (3) above both Atlantico (2.5) and Jaleo (2) unless one is one x-ing on the beauty of the room and its inhabitants, as opposed to focused on the food."

You took the words out of my mouth. In my opinion it's downright absurd to say that Zaytinya is two notches better than Jaleo. When I see ratings like that, I think "pretentious" (because "full of shit" is impolite).

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I agree. But maybe I'm just a geezer. And maybe I don't like Z. so much because they have Turkish, but not Greek Raki.

[hjshorter]

No time for a long screed right now but two first impressions are that I am not impressed with "The Scene" feature, and I miss the pullout with the addresses and phone numbers of all the restaurants.

[Busboy]

No time for a long screed right now but two first impressions are that I am not impressed with "The Scene" feature, and I miss the pullout with the addresses and phone numbers of all the restaurants.

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I said it up top: style is the substance.

The pullout is actually in there but, as you're flipping through, it looks like a two-page Cadillac ad. (I missed it a couple of times , too).

[hjshorter]

The pullout is actually in there but, as you're flipping through, it looks like a two-page Cadillac ad.  (I missed it a couple of times , too).

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Well let's hope I haven't accidentally recycled that issue.

And yes, the style is the substance, and in order to appeal a younger hipper crowd (or maybe just younger) it's probably wise to make the "scene" part of the review. It's not about the food now, is it?

Edited January 3, 2006 by hjshorter (log)

[sara]

A. Love the new look and new 'tude

B. Where is Firefly??

C. Check out my uncle Joe (youcha) in the Local Heroes section while you're flipping thru.

[Busboy]

A. Love the new look and new 'tude

B. Where is Firefly??

C. Check out my uncle Joe (youcha) in the Local Heroes section while you're flipping thru.

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B. I noticed that Wabek got more props for his wine than his cooking. Love the wine list, but still...

[hjshorter]

B. Where is Firefly??

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B. I noticed that Wabek got more props for his wine than his cooking.

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Someone have an axe to grind maybe?

[JPW]

B. Where is Firefly??

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New Hampshire about a block or so South of Dupont Circle.

[Busboy]

B. Where is Firefly??

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B. I noticed that Wabek got more props for his wine than his cooking.

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Someone have an axe to grind maybe?

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It's clear that Chef Wabek has not always been supportive of the magazine's food and wine criticism. Though that was a couple of issues back.

Of course, neither was Washingtonian's new wine writer...

[bilrus]

B. Where is Firefly??

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B. I noticed that Wabek got more props for his wine than his cooking.

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Someone have an axe to grind maybe?

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It's clear that Chef Wabek has not always been supportive of the magazine's food and wine criticism. Though that was a couple of issues back.

Of course, neither was Washingtonian's new wine writer...

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Or the Washingtonian's new food editor for that matter.

I liked the format. They are taking their coverage in a completely new direction and I think the addition of "The Scene" helps with that. Older readers need to know more about the style of these new restaurants and I would assume that the younger readers they are tryign to pull in are more concerned with the scene.

I just like the fact that the list reflects reality more than it has in the past.

Edited January 4, 2006 by bilrus (log)

[hjshorter]

Maybe someone should ask Mr Kliman what's up. I would consider Firefly's food to be better than several places that did make the list, and the service rates too.

[bilrus]

Maybe someone should ask Mr Kliman what's up.  I would consider Firefly's food to be better than several places that did make the list, and the service rates too.

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He was asked the question in his chat yesterday and bascially said that he had had better meals there in the past but his last few weren't as good. I'd still think it would rate in the top 100 even with an off night or two.

[Busboy]

Maybe someone should ask Mr Kliman what's up.  I would consider Firefly's food to be better than several places that did make the list, and the service rates too.

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He was asked the question in his chat yesterday and bascially said that he had had better meals there in the past but his last few weren't as good. I'd still think it would rate in the top 100 even with an off night or two.

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And indeed, here is a link to that very chat.

Also contains some back and forth about the format and about the wholesale slaughter of the Old Guard.

[jm chen]

I enjoyed it a lot, with the "What You'll Like" and "What You Won't" serving as a handy, skim-through way to set things up. Every place has its pluses and its minuses. Best to set the summary up so both can be easily addressed.

Man, they were harsh on Corduroy's decor, though. "Airport lounge" just doesn't seem accurate to me.

And I sort of found it odd that restaurants with a couple different types of pricing (Palena/Palena Cafe) and Galileo (Osteria/Laboratorio/original flavor) took up one spot for each incarnation. I can't think of a better way to do it -- certainly eating at Palena Cafe is a completely different experience than eating at Palena -- but it still struck me as somehow not quite right.

[Busboy]

I enjoyed it a lot, with the "What You'll Like" and "What You Won't" serving as a handy, skim-through way to set things up. Every place has its pluses and its minuses. Best to set the summary up so both can be easily addressed.

Man, they were harsh on Corduroy's decor, though. "Airport lounge" just doesn't seem accurate to me.

And I sort of found it odd that restaurants with a couple different types of pricing (Palena/Palena Cafe) and Galileo (Osteria/Laboratorio/original flavor) took up one spot for each incarnation. I can't think of a better way to do it -- certainly eating at Palena Cafe is a completely different experience than eating at Palena -- but it still struck me as somehow not quite right.

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Edited: I am told reliably that they have remodeled since my last visit.

[bilrus]

Man, they were harsh on Corduroy's decor, though. "Airport lounge" just doesn't seem accurate to me.

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That is a leftover from an early Sietsema review or maybe even a weekly dish where he used that exact same phrase. I've seen it used several times since then. But they have added a curtain between the dining room and bar and art on the walls since they first opened.

It is certainly not a flashy Adamstein and Demitriou style place, but it works with the cooking - solid and tasteful.

Edited January 4, 2006 by bilrus (log)

[JPW]

Man, they were harsh on Corduroy's decor, though. "Airport lounge" just doesn't seem accurate to me.

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That is a leftover from an early Sietsema review or maybe even a weekly dish where he used that exact same phrase. I've seen it used several times since then. But they have added a curtain between the dining room and bar and art on the walls since they first opened.

It is certainly not a flashy Adamstein and Demitriou style place, but it works with the cooking - solid and tasteful.

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My only decor complaint would be that wall of windows looking out to the hallway. It would be nice to soften/shade those a little bit. Also, the last thing I want to see when I'm tucking into some duck confit is someone headed to the workout room.

[Malawry]

OK, I finally picked up a copy of this thing today, so I feel I can weigh in.

Do the regular reviews in an average issue carry star ratings? I found myself wondering what ranks a 1-star or a no-star. There are only two 1 1/2 stars in the guide: Jackie's and A La Lucia. Yes, it's supposed to be the "Very Best Restaurants," but if that's the case then why are there any 1 1/2 stars listed anyway?

I loved the pastry sidebar, featuring seveal illuminating quotes from our own Steve Klc, and the Rocks wine piece packs a lot of info into a small amount of space. I'd rather see a "dream dinners" fluff piece than a cheat sheet of who raised or lowered their ranking. Plus, I was pleased as punch to see a nod to the fromage blanc tart at 1789 in Ann Limpert's dream menu--my L'academie classmate Zoe Behrens appears to be handling her promotion to pastry chef with characteristic zest.

This guide overall is a massive improvement over what Washingtonian has printed in the past. I actually don't feel ripped off for buying this off the newsstand, and am now considering subscribing for the first time. I appreciate fresh writing about local food and this smells way less stale than what I've seen in previous years.

[johnb]

And I sort of found it odd that restaurants with a couple different types of pricing (Palena/Palena Cafe) and Galileo (Osteria/Laboratorio/original flavor) took up one spot for each incarnation. I can't think of a better way to do it -- certainly eating at Palena Cafe is a completely different experience than eating at Palena -- but it still struck me as somehow not quite right.

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But it's a lot more than "pricing" and that's the key. For example, Laboratorio, while it's contained within Galileo, is an entirely separate restaurant with its own kitchen and its own staff, menu, philosophy, etc. etc. It's actually more different from Galileo than the various outposts of the Tunks and Andres empires are from each other. So splitting up the reviews makes good sense.

[The Hersch]

And I sort of found it odd that restaurants with a couple different types of pricing (Palena/Palena Cafe) and Galileo (Osteria/Laboratorio/original flavor) took up one spot for each incarnation.

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What didn't seem right to me about this is that the various pieces of Galileo get three spots, Palena and its Cafe get two, but only one for Restaurant Eve. Surely the difference at Eve is at least as pronounced as at Palena. I suppose the hard limit of 100 might have something to do with it, although I didn't bother to count.

[mhberk]

I don't have the issue in front of me, but I DID find it odd that 2 Amys got three stars ahead of places like Galileo and others that were more deserving. Not to discount their pizza (arguably the best in town), but I just didn't feel that the restaurant as a whole deserved to be ranked that high.

EDIT: Didn't notice that Busboy had already covered this.

Edited January 6, 2006 by mhberk (log)