Telepan

[johnjohn]

Had a really nice meal at Telepan last night. I liked it better than my meal at Hearth last week (and I really like Hearth!) We did the 4 course 55 dollar tasting menu. You have to ask about it - they don't have it printed anywhere on the menu nor does the waiter mention it, which I found odd. It really is a good deal - the protion size is very nice - I was very full when we left. The GF and I shared - the bay scallops and the quail to start. The duck and apple sausage that comes with the quail was very tasty. The scallops were sweet, tender, and flavorful - this dish is almost too rich though - lots of buter and cream. Next course - sweet potato bilini with squash and coddled egg with greens and scrapple - hard to pick a favorite, both were really nice. Thrid course - the lobster braised halibut and the pork cassoulet. The carrots with the halibut were so sweet - might have been the best carrots that I have ever had. The pork was delicious - I liked the beans better than my dining partner did. Dessert was the carmel bricohe profiteroles with rum sauteed apples and the carrot cake sundae with cream cheese ice cream. Both were excellant, but the carrot cake was probably better. The cream cheese ice cream was awesome.

A few notes -

The front door keep opening throughout the night letting in cold air. They have a curtain to block the gusts of air, but it doesn't really help. It didn't make the room cold, it was just annoying to feel a burst of cold air every 10 minutes. Ask to sit farther back in the first room.

The service was pretty poor. We waited 15 or 20 minutes for the amuse. Our first course came 20 seconds after the amuse plates were taken away. Our first course was luke warm (crouton became soggy and the lettuce with the quail was wilting) as if it had been sitting while we finished the amuse. Silverware was also not replaced after each course in a timely fashion - it arrived 10 seconds or so after the runner brought our next course. The runner would be standing in front of our table with our dishes as the waiter scrambled to find silverware for us. not a big deal, but something I notice when I dine out. The quality of the plates and silverware are very nice though.

The bread was really good - especially the raisin fennel semolina rolls. But I couldn't understand what the bread guy was saying when he was describing the different breads - english was not his first language.

For those that like to see famous people while you dine - two major TV personalities, one minor classical music celebrity, and a very very famous chef were in the house last night.

All in all a good meal. The plae was packed, which is good to see. I'll be back in the Spring.

[ASM NY]

Bruni gives Telepan two stars. Article here.

I have walked by the place a couple of times and have been meaning to go. I think $55 for four courses or $65 for five sounds like good value. They should make it a little more obvious that there is this option, as it was not mentioned on the menu posted on the window last time I passed by.

[Daniel]

Went to Telepan last night. Besides having an enjoyable meal, the whole experiences was great. I like the space, I like the menu, I like the wine offerings, the staff was smart and friendly.. The place is well thought out, down to the homemade onions in my girls gibson..

We arrived at 730 for our 930 reservation. There were no available tables, so we decided to sit at the bar and have a few drinks.. During drink two, I decided to look at the menu.. It was very impressive. Pork dishes, foie gras, duck dishes, egg dishes, ok, I am sold.. The only problem was decided what to get..

We decided to have an appetizer while we waited.. So we went with the foie gras.. Accompanied by a citrus jam and a frisee salad with duck proscuitto and a few white almonds. I really felt the citrus went so well with the foie gras.. I believe there were candied blood orange peels.. It was interesting because my girl was tasting the to compliment the orange, while I enjoyed the rich and creaminess of the liver better. The frisee salad had hints of sesame oil. The duck prosciutto was ok, but better then not being there. We drank a glass of Sauterne.. It was suggested by the bartender, who despite working his first night there, knew the menu and there wine well.

At this point in the evening we were told that a table would be ready for us.. When we were seated, I missed sitting next to my girl, so we went back to the bar. Its a comfortable bar, that is designed to serve food. The bread guy even included the bar into his rounds. We were served warm bread three times.. There was a fennel raisin that was just awesome.. Sugary green raisins with fennel, yes sir. Then there was a five grain and a (fill in later).. These two were good..

The menu is solid.. The type of menu where I could have happily eaten any selection offered. The type of menu where while I am enjoying what I am eating, in the back of my mind, I am thinking about a choice I passed up. We ordered the 55 dollar prix fix. Which means any three menu selections and a dessert.. We both ordered the hen of the woods mushrooms with a poached egg.. The man should run a clinic on how to poach an egg.. I dont know what he did, but it was the most perfectly made thing I have ever eaten. I am telling you, like some zen master, he could open a shop that just served poached eggs.. With frisee, the mushrooms and these croutons, I really enjoyed the salad.. There was a light taste of sherry vinegar in the dish. My one criticism would be the salad was missing something salty. I make a similar salad to this where I add chubs, or some smoked fish.. There is an inhouse(in the backyard) smoke trout on the menu. So maybe they dont want to over do it. It would make this dish superb.

Action squirt shot.

From here we decided to get different things to share.. I went with the slow cooked pork ravioli.. It was very tastey..Slow cooked pork mixed with ricotta cheese stuffed in a ravioli a pan fried. I could swear there was another cheese in the ravioli.. But the menu stated one.. Served along side was a pesto which had a good deal of cheese in it.. The other sauce escapes me..

My girl had the sliced duck breast with a foie gras custard..I dont remember too much about the dish.. She really liked it and raved about the foie gras custard..

Next my girl had the short rib served in a beet sauce with potato dumplings.. This dish was off.. The short rib was dry.. I wasnt a big fan, meaning the dish was good.. Just not over the top..

I had the Heritage Pork which had Spareribs, smoked sausage from there backyard, confit, loin and cured bacon.. This was a porkfest on a plate, or a desconstructed cassoulet.. It was really enjoyable.. Served on the side was a gratin of beans cooked Cassoulet style..They were outstanding.. This dish is going to be hard not to get again the next time I go..

MMM, I could go for those right now..

For dessert we had a couple of good selection.. My girl got the caramel brioche profiteroles.. Served with a vanilla ice cream.. She loved them..

Peanut butter and milk chocolate mousse cake peanut brittle ice cream and huckleberry gelée with a dab of chocolate sauce.. This too was great.. Almost like a peanut butter and jelly chocolate sandwich.. I am a fan..

Overall, I was very impressed by the place.. They seem to have a vision and they are executing it very well.. They are providing interesting, skillfully prepared food, with well priced and paired wines.. The bartenders are quick to give you tastes of wine and even bought us a round. Every glass of wine we tasted or drank last night, about 11 in total, was solid.. While we were eating, a pair walked up to the bar and ordered two glasses of red wine.. Telling the bartender that they didnt like the taste, without flinching, the bartender quickly took the wine away and poured them two different glasses he suggested.. End of story.. Being that I ate at this restaurant last night because I cancelled a reservation at a different restaurant do to a rude Manager, I dont take service like this for granted.. This place is a gem and will be around for a long time..

Edited February 17, 2006 by Daniel (log)

[NYC Mike]

WoW! Nice turnaround to the Veritas story Daniel. Awesome writeup and pics, thanks!

[Eatmywords]

Fantastic pics and review Daniel!

The bursting poached egg is the first "food-in-motion" shot I've seen on egullet!

Amazing!

[elicious]

Went again last night, this time with boyfriend and parents. I thought the food was even better than the first time I went. We all opted to do the four course tasting, which is now listed on the menu. Somehow, we all managed to get a different dish for every course so there was lots of sharing.

Amuse was a warm mushroom soup, some kind of fish spread and parsley oil on toast and a cheese croquette. All of it was delicious, especially the croquette. I could have eaten them for one of my courses!

To start, I had the hen of the woods mushrooms with the perfectly poached egg, mom had yellowtail, dad had winter veggie soup and BF had the salad. All were delicious, according to their tasters, and the mushrooms had an amazing flavor that was enhanced by the egg.

Next course, I had the lobster bolognese, bf had the ribiolo tortellini, mom had the cauliflower and dad had the scallops. Again, all were delicious. The cauliflower I had last time was a little salty for me, but mom liked it fine.

Third course, I had the duck breast with foie gras custard and poached pear, mom had the sweet potato blini, bf had sirloin and dad had the chicken. The duck was once again excellent, great flavors and everyone else loved theirs.

Dessert, I had the caramel rum profiteroles, bf had the steamed chocolate cake, mom had the quince dessert finished with a touch of prosecco at the table and dad had the peanut butter and chocolate dessert. I liked all of them but wasn't thrilled with mine, more because it is not something I would normally order but did so we could all try different things. I think it was more my personal taste than anything wrong with the dessert. The rest of the desserts were great.

I disagree with Bruni about the decor - I love the color of the walls, find them quite soothing, and like the structure of the two rooms. Service was good again, although we had to ask for bread, but we had the same waiter as last time who was capable, knowledgable and very enthusiastic about the food. Overall, a great experience.

[ellenesk]

Went to Telepan last night, with mixed results. Uniformly, the food is very good. Had all the things recommended here, and not a clunker in the group. Amuse bouche was a delicious assortment including gougere, brandade and a really good wild mushroom soup.

The mixed results were from the service, which did not match the food. Waited over 20 minutes for our appetizers, sat with wine lists for 20 minutes as well, with no one asking for our order, and us having to find a floor manager to get the sommelier, 2 out of 3 cheese courses came out without garnish on the plates. Desserts seemed to take along time as well, but that could be we had been there for over two hours at that point.

I agree that the room layout is odd, although we were sitting in the back, which definitely felt out of the way.

I will return, but give them a little more time to get their act together.

[markabauman]

We had similar results, but of a slightly different nature. We specified when making the reservation that we were dining pre-ballet, but did not want to eat and run as many pre-theater goers do. Therefore, we took a 5:30 reservation to dine at a relaxed pace. As you said, food was good, esp. the amuse. However, pace was still rushed or poorly timed; waiting, served, then plates swept away and the next course brought all to quickly. Granted, it was Saturday evening, but tables were still available at that hour, so turning the table quickly shouldn't have been an issue. Not wild about the sommelier's pairings either.

[ellenesk]

Agree on the sommelier. Our red did not work well with any of the entrees, and went largely unfinished.

[Daniel]

Seems like dinner at the bar is the right move after hearing about the mixed service. Sitting at the bar you have the bartenders ear and they were great..

Edited February 23, 2006 by Daniel (log)

[oakapple]

My friend and I had dinner at Telepan on Saturday evening. We were underwhelmed.

The menu seems designed to bump up the final bill, with savory courses in three categories (appetizers, "mid-courses" and entrees), instead of the usual two. One is naturally tempted to choose the four-course prix fixe at $55, which entitles you to choose one from each heading, plus a dessert. Wine pairings would have been another $32 apiece, which seemed a little dear, so we went for a single bottle at $48.

The website tells you very little, except that Bill Telepan is "so excited about the opening of...my new restaurant." I remember our selections only in general terms. I started with seared quail, while my friend had the foie gras terrine. Both of these were pretty good, if not outstanding.

For the second course, I had something called "Egg in the Hole," which was a fried egg on top of a small piece of soggy toast, with an even smaller strip of smoked salmon on the side. Telepan gets an A for Dufresne-like creativity, but what was the point? My friend's mid-course was even more peculiar: cauliflower (without anything else), which she reported was over-cooked.

My entree was a duck breast with a foie gras custard, but for the life of me I could taste no foie gras on the plate, and the portion was awfully meagre for a main course. My friend ordered sirloin, which came with vegetables that were, again, over-cooked.

I've entirely forgotten the dessert, except that it was both unexceptionable and unmemorable. We found the decor rather dull, and even tasteless. We sense the possibility that Telepan could be an excellent restaurant. All of the dishes show a considerable amount of thought, but the execution leaves much to be desired, and many of the portions are too small.

[Todd36]

Had dinner there last night. It's fine, but not special. I thought it was worth the $55 pre fix, and glasses of wine are reasonable priced by Manhattan standards. Started with the Yellowtail tarte and the quail with sausage. Both were fine. Next was the short rib with borscht and the tortellni, ribs were fine, tortellini was quite good. Next was the monkfish (didn't quite work) and the duck (which was quite good). Dessert was the wam chocolate cake (OK) and the quince parfat (quite good). Overall, a weak two star or a strong one star. Nothing was bad and I didn't leave hungry.

[Megan Blocker]

Oakapple, here's a link to the MenuPages site...the menu seems to be posted there much as you (and others) have reported.

[oakapple]

Oakapple, here's a link to the MenuPages site...the menu seems to be posted there much as you (and others) have reported.

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Yes...thought of that after posting, and on my blog was able to update the descriptions of the dishes.

[Dryden]

Anyone been recently? Thinking of going for a birthday...

[hshiau]

We went for dinner this past Saturday evening since we unexpectedly had the night off when my daughter went for a sleepover. With no reservation, we were lucky enough to snag a no-show table at 6pm. We had the 4 course prix fixe and a glass of wine each. At $55 for the prix fixe, I thought it was a great deal.

My wife started with the Spring Vegetable-bread Soup as an appetizer, the Robiolla Tortellini for the mid-course, and the Heritage Pork as an entree. She loved both the soup and the totellini but found the pork a bit bland. I had the Foie Gras Terrine, the Lobster Bolognese and the Seared Duck Breast and Duck Confit. I enjoyed everything I had. I thought the confit wasn't cooked as much as I was used to but it was still good.

For dessert, we shared the Rhubarb Panna Cotta and the Pineapple Rice Pudding. The panna cotta was well executed but the rice pudding was out of this world. I'd go back just for the rice pudding.

All in all, the service was excellent, the food was good and the price was very reasonable. We'll probably make this one of the restaurants we hit more often since it's in the neighborhood. I'll post pictures if I figure out how.

[hshiau]

amuse bouche

foie gras terrine

spring vegetable-bread soup

lobster bolognese

robiola tortellini

seared duck breast and duck confit

heritage pork

rhubarb panna cotta

pineapple rice pudding

[ASM NY]

Great pics hshiau!

Edited May 2, 2006 by ASM NY (log)

[Daniel]

Thanks for the photos.. I wish I had that in my life right now..

Edited May 2, 2006 by Daniel (log)

[sadie_siamesecat]

So, we went to Telepan on Saturday--a date night, at last, after 6 months of planning our wedding. In any case, the night was marred by one service issue that's kind of been bugging me. Would love to know other's opinions, though I do know that opens this up to a world of interpretation and possibly a world of hurt!

I had the smoked trout + the pea carbonara, both great if heavy choices for a Saturday night. He had the foie gras followed by the duck. Though we both prefer the winter prep of the duck with the foie gras custard, the food was great, our server attentive, and we enjoyed our meal very much. They took off the walnuts on the foie gras after he mentioned his severe nut allergy.

Do you see where this is going?

Then we ordered ice cream for dessert. Besides the sorbets, the choices were strawberry, chocolate, and vanilla. Foolishly, we said it was OK to bring us a mix. Next thing you know, I am stopping my fiance from taking another bite of the chocolate because it is really chocolate peanut butter and I don't want him to go into anaphylactic shock and die. Call me crazy.

So we got the dessert replaced after explaining the situation (calmly) and then it was as if we were the pariah table. We had to ask a passing manager for a glass of soda so that my fiance could take his Benadryl that he always carries with him. I explained the situation, the manager said "yes, I heard that," he brought the soda and then we were pariahs again. Our server never came back except to drop off the check.

Now, in retrospect, yes, we have learned our lesson and will always reiterate no nuts even when the desserts as described have no nuts in them. Normally, we are extremely careful--just lulled by wine and a lot of rich food. So this isn't to blame anyone for bringing the chocolate peanut butter ice cream and that's why we didn't get more loud or vocal.

It's just that no one came by to even check on us or to offer some sort of half-hearted apology. I wasn't making a big screaming fuss (anxiety or excitement can make an allergy attack worse), we weren't blaming anyone, we didn't ask for anything special. Regardless, I still think that the manager should have come by and at least asked "is everything OK?" or that the server could have apologized when he brought a new dish of ice cream sans nuts instead of plunking it down on the table and walking away. We did mention the nut allergy explicitly at the beginning of the dinner and they did not mention nuts when telling us about the ice cream and--you know, forget the caveats, it would have just been thoughtful.

It's possible that they thought he hadn't eaten any--since he is not a glutton with the big bites like me--but it bugged me then and it bugs me now. Again, would have been thoughtful.

Just a blip in a restaurant not really known for fabulous service, but I found it kind of surprising. Not that you can ever guess, but I couldn't help but assume that if this had happened at Union Square or EMP--we would have at least had some sort of apology or at least a drive-by to see if my fiance was gasping for air. (He wasn't and he's fine as we think he managed to miss the peanut butter swirl, and obviously if he had collapsed I'm sure they would have been attentive). Also, if I had made a big screaming fuss--they would have responded, I'm sure. But all we needed was some sort of acknowledgement of a potentially very bad error, and that didn't happen.

Oh well. Telepan is our best bet for good food in the neighborhood and I have been recommending people to go there since it opened. I think we'll go back, but I just have a funny, not-so-good feeling about it now.

[alanamoana]

Bill Telepan is an eGullet member. I hope that he reads this e-mail because in ANY restaurant that is unacceptable, but I would have thought at his restaurant they would be more careful about things like that.

I understand your "funny feeling" about going there now. I also don't think you overreacted. Most restaurants that use OpenTable are able to put notes on guest reservations...like "nut allergy" or something like that. Then when you come in, they print out a little chit and hand it to the server. Maybe (and this is being generous) the server was just busy and absent-minded. I would make it a point to specify the nut allergy when making the reservation...and then again when ordering. But it sounds like you did everything right and they did everything wrong.

But don't get me started about front of house staff!

[billt]

So, we went to Telepan on Saturday--a date night, at last, after 6 months of planning our wedding. In any case, the night was marred by one service issue that's kind of been bugging me. Would love to know other's opinions, though I do know that opens this up to a world of interpretation and possibly a world of hurt!

I had the smoked trout + the pea carbonara, both great if heavy choices for a Saturday night. He had the foie gras followed by the duck. Though we both prefer the winter prep of the duck with the foie gras custard, the food was great, our server attentive, and we enjoyed our meal very much. They took off the walnuts on the foie gras after he mentioned his severe nut allergy.

Do you see where this is going?

Then we ordered ice cream for dessert. Besides the sorbets, the choices were strawberry, chocolate, and vanilla. Foolishly, we said it was OK to bring us a mix. Next thing you know, I am stopping my fiance from taking another bite of the chocolate because it is really chocolate peanut butter and I don't want him to go into anaphylactic shock and die. Call me crazy.

So we got the dessert replaced after explaining the situation (calmly) and then it was as if we were the pariah table. We had to ask a passing manager for a glass of soda so that my fiance could take his Benadryl that he always carries with him. I explained the situation, the manager said "yes, I heard that," he brought the soda and then we were pariahs again. Our server never came back except to drop off the check.

Now, in retrospect, yes, we have learned our lesson and will always reiterate no nuts even when the desserts as described have no nuts in them. Normally, we are extremely careful--just lulled by wine and a lot of rich food.  So this isn't to blame anyone for bringing the chocolate peanut butter ice cream and that's why we didn't get more loud or vocal.

It's just that no one came by to even check on us or to offer some sort of half-hearted apology. I wasn't making a big screaming fuss (anxiety or excitement can make an allergy attack worse), we weren't blaming anyone, we didn't ask for anything special. Regardless, I still think that the manager should have come by and at least asked "is everything OK?" or that the server could have apologized when he brought a new dish of ice cream sans nuts instead of plunking it down on the table and walking away. We did mention the nut allergy explicitly at the beginning of the dinner and they did not mention nuts when telling us about the ice cream and--you know, forget the caveats, it would have just been thoughtful.

It's possible that they thought he hadn't eaten any--since he is not a glutton with the big bites like me--but it bugged me then and it bugs me now. Again, would have been thoughtful.

Just a blip in a restaurant not really known for fabulous service, but I found it kind of surprising. Not that you can ever guess, but I couldn't help but assume that if this had happened at Union Square or EMP--we would have at least had some sort of apology or at least a drive-by to see if my fiance was gasping for air. (He wasn't and he's fine as we think he managed to miss the peanut butter swirl, and obviously if he had collapsed I'm sure they would have been attentive). Also, if I had made a big screaming fuss--they would have responded, I'm sure. But all we needed was some sort of acknowledgement of a potentially very bad error, and that didn't happen.

Oh well. Telepan is our best bet for good food in the neighborhood and I have been recommending people to go there since it opened. I think we'll go back, but I just have a funny, not-so-good feeling about it now.

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[billt]

Bill Telepan is an eGullet member.  I hope that he reads this e-mail because in ANY restaurant that is unacceptable, but I would have thought at his restaurant they would be more careful about things like that.

I understand your "funny feeling" about going there now.  I also don't think you overreacted.  Most restaurants that use OpenTable are able to put notes on guest reservations...like "nut allergy" or something like that.  Then when you come in, they print out a little chit and hand it to the server.  Maybe (and this is being generous) the server was just busy and absent-minded.  I would make it a point to specify the nut allergy when making the reservation...and then again when ordering.  But it sounds like you did everything right and they did everything wrong.

But don't get me started about front of house staff!

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my goodness! i am so sorry this happened. i saw the ice cream come back and didn't understand why the customer wasn't told about the peanut butter. i wasn't told about by the staff that we had a potential health concern. for which i again apologize for. i was aware of the concerns during the savory portion. unaware your order was placed for dessert, it seemed obvious, after the fact, that the server didn't alert the you about

the nuts, so our cook just put out what he was told. please accept our apologies, i will bring it up during the service meeting tonight about following through. and also attending to the seriousness of not following with you on his health.

i hope he is well

bt

[rancho_gordo]

I agree it would have been nice for someone to check on you. But the first thing that enters my mind is that peanuts aren't nuts and my friends with nut allergies can both eat peanuts. As you know, there are nuts in everything and you just can't relax, especially in a busy restaurant. But it would have been nice for someone to check in on you.

[Sneakeater]

OTOH, I -- and indeed many lawyers in New York of a certain age -- know someone whose daughter died when she ate a brownie that, unbeknownst to her, contained peanuts, to which she was allergic.

Edited June 13, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)