Michelin 2006: New three-star restaurant

[vserna]

There will be five three-star restaurants in the 2006 Michelin Guide to Spain and Portugal - Carme Ruscalleda's Sant Pau in Sant Pol de Mar has been elevated from two-star status and joins El Bulli, Can Fabes, Arzak and Martín Berasategui. (No other details yet on this guide - will report as soon as I hear them.)

[pedro]

There's a full report at El Periódico

Mugaritz gets its second star, which is the only movement in that category along with the promotion of Sant Pau.

Moo (Barcelona), Caelis (Barcelona), Rincón de Diego (Cambrils), Fogony (Sort), Hostal de Sant Salvador (la Vall de Bianya), El Lago (Marbella), Playa Club (La Coruña), Casa Alfonso (Dehesa de Campoamor, Alicante), La Costa (El Ejido), Solar de Puebla (Santa Cruz de Bezana, Cantabria) and La Sucursal (Valencia) get their first star.

When is Can Roca going to get its more than deserved third star?

[vserna]

I think Campsa is far more interesting and important than Michelin these days. What chaos!

[luizhorta]

I think Campsa is far more interesting and important than Michelin these days. What chaos!

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So Mugartiz has a second star...interesting. Just ate there, 2 weeks ago, and it eas superb.

[Luis Gutiérrez]

I think Campsa is far more interesting and important than Michelin these days. What chaos!

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I think eGullet is far more interesting than Campsa... And we here know Can Roca is 3 stars anyway!

[vserna]

But in this case - so does Campsa, which gives it three 'suns'.

[docsconz]

Congratulations to Carme Ruscalleda! She is more than deserving of this third star. I wish that I could have had a direct opinion on Can Roca. My bad luck kept me from getting there.

From the comments I have heard about Moo, I am surprised that it got a star. As much as people seem to love Can Roca, I've only heard the opposite of Moo.

[Silly Disciple]

Congratulations to Carme Ruscalleda! She is more than deserving of this third star. I wish that I could have had a direct opinion on Can Roca. My bad luck kept me from getting there.

John, do you really think so?

You think she's at the level of Can Fabes or El Bulli?

I can't say cause I haven't eaten in all of them, but for what I've heard she's nowhere near a 3 star. I'd really like to know what you think.

[docsconz]

Congratulations to Carme Ruscalleda! She is more than deserving of this third star. I wish that I could have had a direct opinion on Can Roca. My bad luck kept me from getting there.

John, do you really think so?

You think she's at the level of Can Fabes or El Bulli?

I can't say cause I haven't eaten in all of them, but for what I've heard she's nowhere near a 3 star. I'd really like to know what you think.

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SD, I do think that she is at the level of Can Fabes, which is wonderful. El Bulli is in another dimension in my mind. My meal at her restaurant was at least as good if not better than any I have had in the NYC three star restaurants and I have eaten in all of them. Per Se was really the only one of them comparable to Sant Pau in my estimation. Indeed, there is quite a similarity of style between Ruscalleda and Keller that I had never really considered before writing this post. Their styles are much closer to each other than either is to Santamaria or Adria or Arzak in my limited experience of these cuisines. It is hard to put my finger on it, although the plate composition as well as flavor and textural balances play a part. Both cuisines are somewhat subtle. I will never forget the composed cheese course at Sant Pau. It was the best of its kind I have ever had anywhere. The combinations were beautiful, delicious and simply brilliant.

[Silly Disciple]

SD, I do think that she is at the level of Can Fabes, which is wonderful. El Bulli is in another dimension in my mind. My meal at her restaurant was at least as good if not better than any I have had in the NYC three star restaurants and I have eaten in all of them. Per Se was really the only one of them comparable to Sant Pau in my estimation. Indeed, there is quite a similarity of style between Ruscalleda and Keller that I had never really considered before writing this post. Their styles are much closer to each other than either is to Santamaria or Adria or Arzak in my limited experience of these cuisines. It is hard to put my finger on it, although the plate composition as well as flavor and textural balances play a part. Both cuisines are somewhat subtle. I will never forget the composed cheese course at Sant Pau. It was the best of its kind I have ever had anywhere. The combinations were beautiful, delicious and simply brilliant.

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Oh well, it seems I'll have to go and try it for myself now . Not anytime soon though, I'm sure with the third star it's going to be pretty hard to get a reservation anytime soon.

[degusto]

There's a full report at El Periódico

Mugaritz gets its second star, which is the only movement in that category along with the promotion of Sant Pau.

Moo (Barcelona),  Caelis (Barcelona), Rincón de Diego (Cambrils), Fogony (Sort), Hostal de Sant Salvador (la Vall de Bianya), El Lago (Marbella), Playa Club (La Coruña), Casa Alfonso (Dehesa de Campoamor, Alicante), La Costa (El Ejido), Solar de Puebla (Santa Cruz de Bezana, Cantabria) and La Sucursal (Valencia) get their first star.

When is Can Roca going to get its more than deserved third star?

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Even more surprising is the total absence of Etxebarri.

[Scottf]

I have a table booked for Sant Pau next month. I'll be sure to report back.

[malacitana]

Carme Ruscalleda's Sant Pau absolutely and unreservedly merits a third star. When I went there at the end of October, I found both the food and service almost perfect, and, in my opinion, it has an edge over both Arzak and Berasategui. I've never been to Can Fabes or Can Roca, so I cannot compare with either of these two. I agree with John's observation that there is a certain similarity in style between Ruscalleda and Keller. I found the savoury dishes at Sant Pau and the French laundry equally well balanced in terms of texture and composition of flavours. I would assert, though, that the desserts at Sant Pau are more inspired.

See also the review of Sant Pau that I posted a couple of weeks ago.

[Judith Gebhart]

Carme Ruscalleda's Sant Pau absolutely and unreservedly merits a third star. When I went there at the end of October, I found both the food and service almost perfect, and, in my opinion, it has an edge over both Arzak and Berasategui. I've never been to Can Fabes or Can Roca, so I cannot compare with either of these two. I agree with John's observation that there is a certain similarity in style between Ruscalleda and Keller. I found the savoury dishes at Sant Pau and the French laundry equally well balanced in terms of texture and composition of flavours. I would assert, though, that the desserts at Sant Pau are more inspired.

See also the review of Sant Pau that I posted a couple of weeks ago.

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I am certainly supportive of any Michelin awarded stars to any Spanish chef. Each and every award is deserved.

Too many Spanish chefs have been overlooked by Michelin. One glaring example is Extebarri. THe Michelin 2005 guide fails to mention this extraordinary chef. What a unthinkable omission. Judith Gebhart

[vserna]

Etxebarri has never been included in the Michelin guide, so at least they're consistent. Many outstanding Spanish restaurants, like Sacha in Madrid, are likewise totally absent from the pages of this guide.

The elevation to one-star status of La Costa in southeastern Spain's Almería province is yet more proof of Michelin's total inconsistency. This is a very fine seafood restaurant, which I rated 15/20 for El Mundo, but why one star here and none for El Puerto in Santander or Combarro in Madrid, which are just as good if not better in that same style? Who knows what makes these strange 'inspectors' and their French bosses tick...

[Corinna Dunne]

Maybe there just aren't enough of them to cover the country properly. The Michelin Guide has always been highly secretive about how many inspectors it employs.

As an aside, it appears that there are just 7 inspectors in the US. See this interesting post below from chef John Malik in Greenville, the Michelin US HQ, who cooked for them recently:

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=78102&hl=

[vserna]

If they can cover El Ejido, they can certainly cover Madrid or Santander!

They do have very few people. The scandalous book on Michelin in France, published last year, revealed they had about five people full time in their home country...

[Bux]

If they can cover El Ejido, they can certainly cover Madrid or Santander!

They do have very few people. The scandalous book on Michelin in France, published last year, revealed they had about five people full time in their home country...

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For what it's worth, the new NYC Michelin guide gave a star to Craft, but not to Blue Hill.

[greensNbeans]

Congrats from Houston to the entire crew for this honor Im sure it is too sweet! Now, all eyes are watching!

[Judith Gebhart]

Etxebarri has never been included in the Michelin guide, so at least they're consistent. Many outstanding Spanish restaurants, like Sacha in Madrid, are likewise totally absent from the pages of this guide.

The elevation to one-star status of La Costa in southeastern Spain's Almería province is yet more proof of Michelin's total inconsistency. This is a very fine seafood restaurant, which I rated 15/20 for El Mundo, but why one star here and none for El Puerto in Santander or Combarro in Madrid, which are just as good if not better in that same style? Who knows what makes these strange 'inspectors' and their French bosses tick...

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Victor your recollection is inaccurate. Michelin mentioned Etxebarri in the Spain -Portugal 2003 guide. They dismissed Etxebarri as a restaurant worthy of only two spoons in black. In 2004, Michelin wiped Etxebarri off the culinary map.

WHY?? Michelin will never address their decisions; they also NEVER address any diner's opinion expressed by letter.

Victor your protest about Madrid restaurants denied acknowledgment by Michelin is heeded. I will put your recommendations on file for our next Madrid trip. If it wasn't for eGullet, the international diner would never find his/her way via Michelin. This reality is maddening for those diners entirely dependent on the Michelin guide. Judith Gebhart

[luizhorta]

I think Judith that all guides fail all time, but they really help in some sort of way. Apparently Garcia Santos removed Moo from his guide, and downgraded Mugaritz one point at the same time that Michelin gave Andoni one star more. As we both know (and tasted very recently) Mugaritz is at it's zenith, so I do prefer Michelin in this case And of course Michelin, despite all it's mistakes still is much much more influential than the regional Garcia Santos guide.

Etxebarri has never been included in the Michelin guide, so at least they're consistent. Many outstanding Spanish restaurants, like Sacha in Madrid, are likewise totally absent from the pages of this guide.

The elevation to one-star status of La Costa in southeastern Spain's Almería province is yet more proof of Michelin's total inconsistency. This is a very fine seafood restaurant, which I rated 15/20 for El Mundo, but why one star here and none for El Puerto in Santander or Combarro in Madrid, which are just as good if not better in that same style? Who knows what makes these strange 'inspectors' and their French bosses tick...

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Victor your recollection is inaccurate. Michelin mentioned Etxebarri in the Spain -Portugal 2003 guide. They dismissed Etxebarri as a restaurant worthy of only two spoons in black. In 2004, Michelin wiped Etxebarri off the culinary map.

WHY?? Michelin will never address their decisions; they also NEVER address any diner's opinion expressed by letter.

Victor your protest about Madrid restaurants denied acknowledgment by Michelin is heeded. I will put your recommendations on file for our next Madrid trip. If it wasn't for eGullet, the international diner would never find his/her way via Michelin. This reality is maddening for those diners entirely dependent on the Michelin guide. Judith Gebhart

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[paulbrussel]

When is Can Roca going to get its more than deserved third star?

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That surprises me too. Last year I went foor lunch to San Pau and for dinner to the three brothers at the same day. I thought thta Can Roca was superior to San Pau.

[vserna]

Here's the local explanation. Carme has been offering great cuisine for a long time - she garnered her second star in 1996. In Michelin's mindset, a decade with two stars shows that she's paid her dues. The inside word at Michelin is that the Roca brothers' ascent into the rarefied air of 'haute cuisine' has been much faster, more recent and more unexpected - so they have to wait a little to prove that they're worthy of the great honor... Oh well...

[paulbrussel]

Thanks for the explanation. (Next week I will check again whether I was right last time in esteeming the Roca brothers that high, although this time I won't have lunch first at Carmens place :-).)

[anyavon]

Maybe there just aren't enough of them to cover the country properly. The Michelin Guide has always been highly secretive about how many inspectors it employs.

From what I know--from pretty reliable sources--there are just two inspectors in Spain for the entire country and they are not terribly knowledgeable. The Spanish Michelin guide is among the most under-financed of all editions. Which explains the small number of stars in relation to, say, Italy which has nowhere near as many creative restaurants as Spain. Or France where every restaurant with a clean toilet seems to get a star. The promotion of Ruscalleda & Andoni was a rare bit of insight for the Red Book, it has to be said.