Christmas in Spain

[Narcissus]

We - Wife and I - will be running around France and Spain this Christmas holiday for our honeymoon. I searched the forums and found only one thread from October of 2003.

Not very encouraging, to say the least.

Before I call the Hotel Concierge, would anyone have any suggestions? We are open to any style of restaurant, from a Tapas Bar to Cinc Sentis - as long as the food is good and the wine flows.

And if it helps, we are staying in Las Ramblas.

Thanks in advance to all!

[Saborosa]

25 and 26 December are Sunday and Monday this year - days when many restaurants in BCN are shut anyway, though that's probably not much of a consolation. And restaurants that are open and that take reservations may well be full - so start trying to book now.

For impossible holiday dining I normally recommend trying restaurants in the Tragaluz group www.grupotragaluz.com, although they're erratic in terms of standards of food and service, eg Tragaluz, Agua, Bestial and Moo - which brings me to my second suggestion - restaurants in hotels - as well as Moo in the Omm there's Gaig in the unfortunately named Hotel Cramm, which recently had good feedback from an egulleteer, Enoteca and Arola (though the latter has had mixed, but generally negative I believe, reports here) in the Hotel Arts, and Drolma at the Hotel Majestic to name a few.

I've only had personal experience of Moo - great food and wine but badly timed service and I didn't like the space (cold - atmosphere, rather than temperature-wise), though others have dined very happily there. But others on this forum should be able to help with comments, or you could do a search.

These are certainly not the only places that will be open - just some pointers as to where you are most likely to find a table.

Get out and about and have a wander around the Barri Gotic, Raval and Borne/St Pere areas and see what you find! We're not all Christians in this town so you might be able to get a curry or a kebab on the Rambla de Raval if you want to see the 'real' Barcelona!

A final thought - restaurants that are open on holidays may well only be open for lunch so you may do well to plan on big lunches rather than dinners?

And give that concierge a call/email - that's what you're paying for!

Edited November 10, 2005 by Saborosa (log)

[dfunghi]

I suggest you shop on Saturday at Boqueria and prior while in France and plan to have a nice picnic in a quiet little park or square and have your own very special christmas dinner. You most certainly will find some panaderia and pasteleria open xmas morning. Other than that have some jammon , preserved Fois, membrillo, cheese,olives,roast pimento, asparagus, tinned tuna, etc, and wine. Take a towel from hotel to spread out or in case of inclement weather I am sure there are places to eat under cover that you can find or a local may tell you about. I am not sure if Park Guell( sp) is open 365 days but that would be good rain or shine. Most of all I would say save eating out for all the other nights since christmas is usually a crazy night and one in which most restaurants will be closed. Hotel restaurants excluded. And Mozel Tov on your wedding.

Edited to add: Don't forget to get some amazing chocolates!

Edited November 12, 2005 by dfunghi (log)

[Saborosa]

Good idea David. On a clear day with little wind, the beach could be another option for a picnic. Or one of the parks on Montjuic - Jardins de Mosser Cinto Verdaguer even has grass! A rare commodity in this town where sand and dog poop are the more usual terroir. It's near the funicular stop (which I don't think is actually running, but you can still use it as a landmark ). Turn right out of the station and just follow the road round up to your right and you should see it in front of you.

(Narcissus - this isn't to replace our PM communication - just thought I'd post this so others can see the info.)

[jakob nielsen]

I'll second the recommendation for the Tragaluz places.

I've been to three of them, and especially enjoyed the one also named Tragaluz.

It's at Passatge de la Conceptio, just of Passeig de Gracia. 20 min. walk from the Rambla.

I had an Oxtail dish that had some real oompf to it.

Its near the Hotel Omm, so you'll be able to swing by and check the decor for yourself.

The two others that I've been to are El Japones and Aqua (at the beach). Both are good, but not great foodwise. The atmosphere is tres chic.

check out http://www.grupotragaluz.com/

If you are looking for a more haute cuisine type experience without spending Cal Pep money, I recommed Alkímia.

Calle Industria 79.

Try and do a search, here on the site, I am sure its been reviewed.

For less formal places try something around the Born area.

And stay away from the Ramblas restaurants. Maybe except from the ones inside the Boqueria which are quite a fun experience.

Enjoy

[Narcissus]

Thank you, everyone.

We have decided we will hit the bars on friday the 23rd. We will try to distill from the forums the highest regarded within taxi / walking distance.

We will try for a late lunch on the 24th at Cinc Sentits since Can Fabes will be closed.

For Christmas day, we are going to rent a car, and explore and have a day of picnics. If need be, we'll get room service.

Not much of an epic eating trip, but we will do what we can.

Larry

[Narcissus]

Ok, here is our Barcelona Report for our limited time over the Christmas holiday.

First of all, our overnight train was late getting from Paris into Barcelona by 7 hours. Our plan to hit La Boqueria that day was shot. We intended to arrive at 8:00am or so, but actually made it to our hotel closer to 4:00pm. Everyone was sympathetic, so our room was upgraded at Eurostar Grand Marina. We relaxed for a bit, honeymooners after all, and then made reservations at the bar at Comerc 24 for 22:00. We made the wrong decision and ordered the Festival menu, which was 6 courses of interesting tapas. Highlights include a deconstructed Bacalao Biscaina, and a skewer of Escargot wrapped in Jamon Iberico, served with a Foie Flan and Bacon Foam. What really impressed me was the inclusion of music from my favorite DJ, Amon Tobin, in the restaurant's playlist. Too cool for words.

We decided to stroll a bit and barely made the last seating or two at Cal Pep, and Senor Pep was there with his gravelly voice. Once again, we made the mistake of allowing the staff to order for us... we had way too much food after the richness of Comerc 24, but we ate it all! Baby squid sauteeed with white beans; one of the best Fritto Misto I have ever had, and more.

Too full for words, we hit a bar in the Born Ribera that had a Brazilian Theme. We knew we were in trouble when the bartender asked us if we were 'SURE' we wanted the Capairinhas... Thank the honeymoon gods we made it to a taxi and the hotel. (I wish I was on honeymoon every trip - maybe I'll keep claiming that...)

Next day was Christmas Eve, so we stayed in bed all morning, barely making it to La Boqueria while everyone was preparing for the 25th. We did the same - a Kilo of Jamon Iberico de Bellota, fresh figs, Goat Cheese, Cows milk cheese, loaves of bread, Acietunas de Anchoa, and a few bottles of wine and cava- this picnic became our in room Christmas Day meal, after staying in bed and cooking up an appetite...

We love Barcelona, had some incredible experiences, and although we have some incredible food and wine in Northern California, the accessibility we found is just not here.

Thanks to all who helped us out and we'll be back!

[Bux]

Ok, here is our Barcelona Report for our limited time over the Christmas holiday.

First of all, our overnight train was late getting from Paris into Barcelona by 7 hours. Our plan to hit La Boqueria that day was shot. We intended to arrive at 8:00am or so, but actually made it to our hotel closer to 4:00pm.

←

We once arrived on a flight from London that was about as delayed. My recollection was that we were scheduled to arrive in time to have a liesurely dinner after some tapas, but didn't land until after midnight. Fortunately this was Barcelona and there were some pretty good tapas in a bar still open just a block from our hotel. It's really amazing what a couple of finos, a few well chosen tapas amd a pleasant barman can do in the way of changing one's mood. I was so glad we were in Barcelona and not anyplace else. By the way, that particular bar stays on my list, but in fact, it's hardly one of the most significant bars in town.

[Pistachio Disguisey]

I'm going to be passing through Barcelona on the 24th and the 25th (as well as the 26th) of December, and I was wondering if any gulleters have an idea of what, if anything, will be open over the holiday. I'm going to cast a wide net with my calling and emailing of restaurants for reservations since I imagine most will be closed, but I'm also curious about whether the market and more humble places (neighborhood tapas joints, bars, other street food options) will potentially be open.

Specific suggestions of places likely to be open are certainly welcome as well.

Gracias!

[Saborosa]

Some friends are going here:

http://www.arenalrestaurant.com/index.htm

I haven't tried it but a friend of my friends (keep up!) recommended it to them. However, their criteria are more to do with finding somewhere for a largish group, with young kids, and the beach view, rather than amazing food.

The Tragaluz Group of restaurants are generally reliable and generally open when other places are closed.

www.grupotragaluz.com/

The Taller de Tapas restaurant on Rambla Catalunya 49-51 hasThe an interesting range of platos featuring good traditional dishes. I'm not sure if it will be open but I suspect it will be.

The hotel restaurants might be a good bet eg Moo at the Omm, Lasarte at the Condes de Barcelona, Caelis at the Hotel Palace, Drolma at the Majestic, Gaig at the Cram... these are all expensive, high-end places.

I imagine most of the local small places will be closed, the markets certainly will be, but wandering around the back streets of the Old Town may lead to a discovery!

[Pistachio Disguisey]

Thanks for the advice. Its taken more legwork and advance reservations, but it looks like I should be able to eat most places I would have wanted to anyway. Tapac24 is open for christmas even, I've got a reservation at Hisop for 12/25, and Taller de Tapas is as far as I can tell only closed on 12/24. Now I'm just hoping that the market is at least open in the morning on 12/24 or on 12/26, and that by 12/26 some of the other tapas places (Quimet, Inopia...) will be open again

I also plan on buying absurd amounts of wine and alcohol upon arrival lest the bars be closed for the duration.

[Silly Disciple]

Thanks for the advice.  Its taken more legwork and advance reservations, but it looks like I should be able to eat most places I would have wanted to anyway.  Tapac24 is open for christmas even, I've got a reservation at Hisop for 12/25, and Taller de Tapas is as far as I can tell only closed on 12/24.  Now I'm just hoping that the market is at least open in the morning on 12/24 or on 12/26, and that by 12/26 some of the other tapas places (Quimet, Inopia...) will be open again

I also plan on buying absurd amounts of wine and alcohol upon arrival lest the bars be closed for the duration.

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If I'm not mistaken, the market will be open both on 12/24 and 12/26 (not 12/25). 12/24 is a crazy day for the market, everyone places their orders ahead of time and come by during the day to pick up.

[luizhorta]

Dry Martini, the very good cocktail place will be open all days, including Christmas and New Year, as the owner says: the bar never close. I had a new pearly gin tonic there that was astonishing. I happen to visit due to a comment by Ferran Adria saying the place is his favorite for creative cocktails and saw why he did say that.

[Pistachio Disguisey]

Dry Martini, the very good cocktail place will be open all days, including Christmas and New Year, as the owner says: the bar never close. I had a new pearly gin tonic there that was astonishing. I happen to visit due to a comment by Ferran Adria saying the place is his favorite for creative cocktails and saw why he did say that.

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Outstanding! I think I know what I'll be doing (or at least drinking) on Christmas Eve!

Edited December 14, 2007 by Pistachio Disguisey (log)

[Abra]

As it turns out, we're planning to be in Barcelona for Christmas too. Silly, I'll be sure to drop by and say hi.

I haven't made reservations yet, so any additional restaurant suggestions will be very welcome.