Schwa - Chicago

[gmi3804]

The biggest hit of the night, IMO, was a new dessert item...the truffle milkshake.  I tried to get one to go, but no luck.

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I'm sure you know this, Josh, but Margie's Candies isn't very far from Schwa!

I'll add my applause to the ever-growing band of Schwaficionados. I can't wait to go back, but fear I'm going to have to plan further in advance with each subsequent visit; I think the secret's out. This place is a keeper!

Edited February 18, 2006 by gmi3804 (log)

[ulterior epicure]

I had dinner at Schwa a few weeks ago.

Everything was pretty good - the Quail egg ravioli, though, stole my heart! I think it actually skipped a beat - and not just because of its permanent artery-clogging side-effects... I'm convinced (hope?) that this is what God serves in heaven without the calories (or guilt). It would be a CRIME for anyone to walk out of the restaurant without trying them!

Plating was all very beautiful. As I had remarked upthread - very organic presentations. For example, the beets looked like a painter's palette - absolutely stunning - dots and dabs of almost artificially intense colours. (My only quibble with this dish was that the pickled beets were way too crispy and hard - and not very pickled. But, that's probably just a personal thing).

All of the ingredients and produce were very fresh. Meats came out at exacting temperatures (perhaps the lamb was a little more well-done than I would have liked - but I hadn't warned the hostess that I like my red meats on the colder side). Flavors intense. Combinations creative - and good.

The only notable downer for me was dessert: a rather sorry-looking ill-formed mass of brown goop - chocolate cake layered with truffled buffalo ricotta and sloppily slathered with a ridiculously rich and sticky chocolate ganache. Way too much ganache. The cake was also leaning on one side from what was apparently a rushed construction - the filling was peeking out in some areas. It just looked like a three y.o.'s attempt at baking and frosting...

After scraping of a layer of the ganache, everything tasted alright - the cake was moist and dark and the truffled-buffalo ricotta was a novel treat.

The most amazing thing about the restaurant, as noted over and over again, is the operation: 2 chefs, 1 server and a dishwasher. It's really quite a balancing act. While the pacing was erratic - it took a good 20 minutes for one dish toward the end to arrive, I was more than willing to overlook any of these details.

Upshot: All very good. To be honest, not as impressed as I was hoping/expecting to be - but I admit to having set very high standards because of the gushing on this thread - which is all very true. I guess it just didn't quite "click" with me on the night of my visit perhaps as it did with everyone else. (Schwa also followed on the heels of an outta-this-world meal the night before at another Windy City resto). All in all, very happy with my meal at Schwa and would commend it to all.

Oh, the other thing - make sure you're in for a "lively" atmosphere. The restaurant is small and can get QUITE LOUD...

I truly wish the folks at Schwa continued success!

u.e.

[edit to add: oh - and yes, if you're having problems finding the tiny storefront resto - it's right across the street from the electric palm trees - you can't miss'em!! ]

Edited March 15, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[docsconz]

Note to self: Must have those ravioli.

[david coonce]

Hey there. Going to Schwa for the first time tomorrow night - had to reserve two weeks ago for a 6 pm friday (!) but still..

any recommendations. I am looking at the online menu (probably not updated?) and am reading other's reviews of the place, but am torn between the pork and the quail. Anybody had both? Either? let me know - it will be useful to know what kind of wine to bring. Also, do we need to bring our own wine glasses? I am fine with drinking out of rocks glasses or whatever - do I need to bring a wine key?

[ulterior epicure]

...any recommendations. I am looking at the online menu (probably not updated?) and am  reading other's reviews of the place, but am torn between the pork and the quail. Anybody had both? Either?

1. I have had neither the quail or the pork as a main course.

2. It would be absolutely criminal for you to leave without trying the quail egg ravioli.

u.e.

Edited March 31, 2006 by ulterior epicure (log)

[chefperkey]

Going to dinner Tuesday night. I can't wait Brittanie is a friend from Grand Rapids so it will great to see her as well. I'll give a report when I get back.

[ronnie_suburban]

David,

I didn't have the quail but the pork was truly a show-stopper; as were the ravioli and several of the other dishes we tried. I've heard stories about a Truffle milkshake but I have yet to experience it.

If you prefer stems, bring your own. We were provided large shot-type glasses which were fine for us. Otherwise, Brittanie will take good care of you and whatever wine you bring. As for what to bring, I suppose that really depends on how you foresee ordering.

=R=

[jesteinf]

Hey there. Going to Schwa for the first time tomorrow night - had to reserve two weeks ago for a 6 pm friday (!) but still..

any recommendations. I am looking at the online menu (probably not updated?) and am  reading other's reviews of the place, but am torn between the pork and the quail. Anybody had both? Either? let me know - it will be useful to know what kind of wine to bring. Also, do we need to bring our own wine glasses? I am fine with drinking out of rocks glasses or whatever - do I need to bring a wine key?

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I'm not sure about the quail, but I cannot recommend the pork dish highly enough. That being said, I'm not 100% sure it's still on the menu. As for glassware, you will be drinking wine out of tumblers. I have seen other people bring their own wine glasses.

[jesteinf]

I've heard stories about a Truffle milkshake but I have yet to experience it.

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Oh don't even get me started on that. Damn you Ron! How am I supposed to get any work done now?

Must...stop...thinking...about...truffle milkshake.

[ulterior epicure]

Must...stop...thinking...about...truffle milkshake.

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Why? It's Friday!!

u.e.

[david coonce]

Well, back from Schwa, and the meal was truly outstanding. One of the best I have had in Chicago.

Started with the quail egg ravioli (we actually started with the chees plate, but nothing remarkable there.) We each ordered the ravioli, and damn, it was as good as advertised and then some. It was literally something neither of us didn't want to end. We ate those raviolis so slowly - unctuous and rich and the eggs perfectly poached inside those raviolis. Damn.

I had the pork (no quail on the menu), and it was fantastic. The textures of the loin versus he belly were perfectly contrasted, and the little roasted matchsticks of salsify were delicious. My fiance had the barramundi, with a coating of leeks and pistachios, with roasted, finely diced butternut squash. It was almost better than the pork, and at least as good. It's a fish I never see on menus and it was cooked so well, with so much flavor. We just kept saying, over and over again, "My god!"

For dessert I had the pineapple upside down cake with salt caramel and ginger custard. The cake and caramel were good, but the custard was awesome - not sweet, just rich and gingery.

The SO had the chocolate cake with chocolate ganache and buffalo mozzarella with shaved truffles and, yep, a white chocolate-truffle milkshake. That milkshake was one of the finest things I have ever put in my mouth. The cake was decadent and the cheese was perfect with it.

The one odd thing was that there was no waitress/FOH person - the two chefs took the orders, brought out the food, refilled water, opened wine, etc. Weird. But because we got there so early, and were the only people there for a while, we got great service and I was able to talk to the chefs a little bit.

Oh yeah, each course was started with a little amuse, the first was a carrot/cardamom marshmallow with carrot juice/cardamom foam chaser (very, very good), the second was a crispy radish with black trumpet mushroom and eggplant confit, which was just a spoonful but had lots of nice flavor and texture going on, and the third was a little shot glass of sunchoke puree with a raspberry puree and a microgreen, it was a litle odd - at first it tasted strange and then it suddenly tasted really good. Maybe because I'm not that familiar with sunchoke. But all the little amuses were a really nice touch. We'll definitely be back.

[ulterior epicure]

david coonce.

glad to hear you had a good visit. sound nearly identical to the meal i had (except the main meat courses).

wasn't it friday night - and the two chefs alone handled the f.o.h.? wow.

u.e.

[gmi3804]

wasn't it friday night - and the two chefs alone handled the f.o.h.?  wow.

One of the things I like about Schwa is that it's a small enough place that it makes you feel like you've wandered into a large dinner party. Very unique!

[ChefGEB]

I just wanted to congratulate Chef Carlson on his being named one of Food & Wine Magazine Best New Chefs for 2006! I look forward to dining at Schwa in the near future, as I have heard nothing but good things. The team of Avenues wishes you continued success.

[ronnie_suburban]

Here's a piece from Janet Fuller which appeared in today's Chicago Sun-Times:

Carlson was previously sous chef at Lovitt, which Schwa replaced. He worked under Grant Achatz, a 2002 Food & Wine best new chef, at the now-shuttered Trio in Evanston, and with former Spiaggia chef Paul Bartolotta.

At Schwa, Carlson and sous chef Nathan Klingbail do all the cooking, though they're adding a third chef in June. Carlson's younger brother pitches in, folding napkins and the like, on occasion.

Wicker Park chef named one of the best in U.S.

=R=

[Judith Gebhart]

I just wanted to congratulate Chef Carlson on his being named one of Food & Wine Magazine Best New Chefs for 2006!  I look forward to dining at Schwa in the near future, as I have heard nothing but good things.  The team of Avenues wishes you continued success.

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Dear Chef: We are both exhuberant supporters of Michael Carlson and Nathan Klingbail, chef and sous-chef of Schwa, Chicago's most recent and exciting culinary destination.

We are world travellers. We know that the talents of these two local, American chefs are extraordinary. They have abilities that compete with the best chefs in Europe. It is thrilling to have contact with such creativity in Chicago. There is no other restaurant with the talent of these two people that can deliver an exceptional meal at such an affordable price. Their unique abilities come at excitingly low prices. Chicago diners, you must visit these very talented people. Don't WALK, just RUN to Schwa!!! Just watch their talent explode again and again. Judith Gebhart

[jesteinf]

Well, it's been a heck of a week for the guys at Schwa. First the recognition from F&W, now it's three stars from the Chicago Tribune

Admittedly, 7-month-old Schwa doesn't fit the standard three-star mold. While the food is often spectacular, service is almost non-existent, and the restaurant falls short in some of those myriad little niceties that I like to call creature comforts.

The conservative in me says to keep the star rating low, and to wait for Schwa's dining experience to improve.

But you know what? It's never going to happen.

Congrats and keep up the good work!

On the downside, while before it was moderately difficult to get a weekend reservation before, I now fear that it will be almost impossible.

Edited April 6, 2006 by jesteinf (log)

[Elrushbo]

Well, it's been a heck of a week for the guys at Schwa.  First the recognition from F&W, now it's three stars from the Chicago Tribune

Admittedly, 7-month-old Schwa doesn't fit the standard three-star mold. While the food is often spectacular, service is almost non-existent, and the restaurant falls short in some of those myriad little niceties that I like to call creature comforts.

The conservative in me says to keep the star rating low, and to wait for Schwa's dining experience to improve.

But you know what? It's never going to happen.

Congrats and keep up the good work!

On the downside, while before it was moderately difficult to get a weekend reservation before, I now fear that it will be almost impossible.

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Does anyone know how far in advance Schwa takes reservations? To be honest, the service thing doesn't mean a whole lot to me, if you get to try food at prices lower than could be charged, I'll take the pitcher at the table. It's all about the food at any restaurant, there are bad restaurants with 'great' service.

[ronnie_suburban]

I just received a press release from Chicago Magazine indicating that chef Michael Carlson of Schwa will be named best (new) chef in their May 2005 "Where To Eat Now" issue.

Not a bad week for the folks at Schwa.

=R=

[robert40]

To see a young chef without the help of big bucks and PR firms be so successful must be the most inspirational restaurant success story of the year.

Congratulations!

[ulterior epicure]

Adding to the string of congratulations! I'm so happy to see Chef Carlson and his staff being recognized in so many great ways! Totally deserved.

u.e.

[little ms foodie]

wahooooo, a friend and I will be dining at Schwa next Thursday! Suggestions on wine to bring?? I'm use to a wine list!

[rhinopias]

wahooooo, a friend and I will be dining at Schwa next Thursday! Suggestions on wine to bring?? I'm use to a wine list!

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We usually bring a Loire white with mineral/stone qualities and Pinot Noir for the meat courses.

[little ms foodie]

thanks rhinopias, that is almost exactly what we were thinking- some bubbly and a nice Pinot Noir

[david coonce]

Yeah. we brought a Chilean white (Crios Torrontes), a lot of complexity and flavor, and a Chilean Malbec (Burundi?), and they both went well with the various parts of the meal. I'm not sure if the wines being from Chile had anything to do with that, but they worked.