Schwa - Chicago

[little ms foodie]

WOW, WOW and WOW

Michael and Nathan really know how to throw a dinner party. That is how we felt eating at Schwa, like we were friends and they were cooking amazing food for us.

Chef Carlson asked if he could just cook for us and we gladly said yes!! My dining companion brought a bottle of Vueve Cliquot and a nice little white bordeaux, I brought an 02 single vineyard pinot noir from Cristom cellars.

No photos as the lighting was too low and I didn't want to use the flash. Our amuse came out, carrot juice with cardamom foam + marshmallow, carrot and cardamom. it was more like carrot water- so pure and the flavor was amazing.

celeric, apple and white anchovy salad- the flavors here just played off each other perfectly. All presentations are outstanding.

bean soup with gigantic beans, cheese and roasted peppers. the beans and peppers were on the lip of the bowl and you moved them all in for eating!

kick ass quail egg ravioli- better than you can imagine, nuff said.

lavendar butter lobster with potatoes and swiss chard, this was one of the best lobster dishes I have ever had!

duck breast, duck confit. I can't remember all the things on the plate! there was some wine involved remember??

perfectly seared beef with talaggio, honey and braised short ribs- why more chefs don't put some honey on the plate of a meat dish is a mystery to me know. this was awesome.

brownie with truffle schmoo and truffle shake- TO DIE FOR!!

everything about Schwa made me enjoy myself. I loved that it was relaxed and casual but the food was done with such passion. I loved the rock and roll playing in the same room as the cute little chandelier. And the bill was silly inexpensive.

on another note, I had dinner at TRU on Sat. night and Chef Scott (I think it was) had just eaten there recently too and was very impressed!

Thanks again to my great dining partner for such a fun night. I hope everyone gets a chance to go to Schwa!

[docsconz]

Truffle schmoo? Sounds like a great meal, Wendy! Nice wine selections too.

[ulterior epicure]

Truffle schmoo?   Sounds like a great meal, Wendy! Nice wine selections too.

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I'm going to hedge that in little ms. foodie speak, "schmoo" means buffalo ricotta cheese with black truffle..

u.e.

[little ms foodie]

Truffle schmoo?   Sounds like a great meal, Wendy! Nice wine selections too.

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I'm going to hedge that in little ms. foodie speak, "schmoo" means buffalo ricotta cheese with black truffle..

u.e.

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We like the word schmoo! but yes, the brownie has this soft buffalo ricotta cheese that is awesome, then they use it to secure the glass to the plate for the milkshake too!!!

[ulterior epicure]

We like the word schmoo! but yes, the brownie has this soft buffalo ricotta cheese that is awesome, then they use it to secure the glass to the plate for the milkshake too!!!

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Yeah, and don't think I was tempted to lick the "glue" either! Ahem...

u.e.

[soupsister]

I'm sticking with "schmoo". Remember we had plenty of wine at that point and that's as clever as we were able to be at the time. Another great dining night out for the Seattle/South Bend girlie dining club. And I got a bonus from Salumi to boot!!

Next time, that light fixture in the bathroom goes home with us........

[robert40]

Updated menu on Schwa's site.

http://www.schwarestaurant.com/menu.htm

[Judith Gebhart]

I have been an unabashed supporter of Schwa's culinary virtues in past posts. As of June 9th, 2006, my culinary kudos for this talented duo, Michael Carlson and Nathan Klingbail has quadrupled. These two stellar talents continue to WOW the informed palates of the world. We experienced an extraordinary meal designed by Michael and Nathan that was sensational. We forgot our camera and didn't take notes. It was just another exceptional dining experience.

As of the end of June, these chefs will feature their tasting menu exclusively for all to sample. This wise decision guarantees the diner the best menu choices these culinary wizards can offer.

The restaurant is booked for all weekends through September THe weekday evenings offer options for diners that have yet to try the profound abilities of these accomplished chefs. Please understand that these young, relatively unknown chefs deserve your attention. This is a remarkable dining experience.

Schwa has no comparison to any other Chicago 3 star dining experience. It is a 4 star experience without the bar and wine ammenities. I challenge anyone with an educated palate to find a better dining experience in the Chicago area. WIth great respect, Judith Gebhart

[robert40]

Judith Gebhart,

You made Food and Wine.

http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/interv...michael-carlson

[ronnie_suburban]

I (along with a few other folks who frequent these forums) was at Schwa last night and was delighted by Chef Carlson's tasting menu.

Not only did I enjoy a few favorites which I'd had before (white anchovy and apple salad, quail egg ravioli, for example), but also some new (to me) items that just blew me away.

The Spring Salad was out of this world. The primary elements were fennel, strawberry and fava in an innovative variety of forms. There were fresh strawberries and a sweet strawberry puree. The bulk of the salad was comprised of raw fennel, shaved thin, which was accompanied by a puree of roasted fennel. Blanched favas and fava puree added to the delight. California goat cheese and fresh mint sent the salad over the top. Sublime.

The Tartare of Prime Beef with Shaved Truffle, Parmesan and Quail Egg Yolk (with hint of celery) was a truly delectable treat. I eat beef fairly often and this was exceptional. I loved the freshness of the beautiful beef and the combination of flavors and textures.

Prosciutto Consomme was a real eye-opener. It was served with a crispy prosciutto chip, a thin slice of prosciutto, shavings of melon and arugula leaves. I loved every aspect of this dish from the aromatic consomme with its rosemary front-note to the fresh and juicy melon right down to the "secret" piece of prosciutto which chef had used to adhere the demitasse to the plate. Yeah, I found it and I ate. And I'd do it again!

Another new item for me was the fantastic sweetbread course. This dish was a truly inspired combination of piping-hot, crispy nuggets of sweetbreads served with warm, pickled rhubarb, arugula sprouts and Humboldt Fog cheese. Wow!! What a brilliant combination of flavors this was. It all worked so wonderfully together. This may have been my favorite dish of the night. Hard to tell though, because there were so many highlights.

I also loved the Sable Fish coated with taro root puree and rolled in toasted slivers of leek. Pineapple and Macadamia (bits and puree of both) completed the presentation. I was surprised how well the pineapple worked here (that's just one small example of why Michael Carlson is the chef and I am merely the diner). The fish was immaculately fresh, light and moist -- cooked perfectly -- naturally. The dish was compelling. Its flavors created a synergy that was so much more than the sum of its parts. Wonderful balance; a fantastic dish.

We also enjoyed a tremendous entree of Prime Beef that was just WAY over the top. It was cooked rare and served with veal cheek which had been braised in Moscato d'Asti, crumble of cooked egg, Taleggio cheese, summer truffles, honey and dandelion greens. This was hearty and elegant all at once. On one very basic level it was Steak and Eggs. But there was so much more to it. I savored every single bite.

There was such much more (the tender, seared scallop with morels, meyer lemon and lavender, the amuses, the playful intermezzos, the chocalate cake with buffalo mozzarella, truffles with Truffle Milkshake) but the significance of descriptions really fades when you consider the glorious reality of this awesome, inspired food.

Yeah, Schwa is a tough table these days but how wonderful that it's truly deserving of being one. So many places, which are not worthy in the least, have lines out their doors at all hours. Here's a gem of a place for which waiting is totally and completely worth it. My advice is to just call up, reserve a table for the next time one is available, mark the date on your calendar and just wait it out with eager anticipation. When the date rolls around, it'll feel like you bought yourself a great gift. Of course, the reservation is free. But on top of that, the fantastic, distinctive cuisine at Schwa is a great value.

=R=

[ulterior epicure]

ronnie.

did they augment their tasting menu? you seem to have enjoyed more courses than the 7 or 8 courses i remember them offering.

oh man, i envy you - carlson's quail egg ravioli is one of the best dishes i've ever had!!

thanks for the report. congrats to m. carlson and n. klingbail for all your recent accolades!! i hope to check back in soon... if i can manage to get a reservation!

u.e.

[ronnie_suburban]

ronnie.

did they augment their tasting menu?  you seem to have enjoyed more courses than the 7 or 8 courses i remember them offering.

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I honestly don't know. The menu only lists the price for the tasting menu, which is $85. My guess is that it varies depending on what's available, size of courses, how many bottles (and what types) of wine a party brings, etc.

Last time we were in, we ordered a la carte. This time, we simply went with the tasting menu and I'm very glad we did. When you decide yourself what to eat it at a chef-driven restraurant like Schwa, the meal may end up being great but it's never as relevant as when you eat what the chef wants to serve you. When I go off on my own, I'm always worried that I'm going to miss out on something great. The chef's self-chosen canvas is almost certain to be a better and more representative one for the chef than the one you bring in for him.

I felt truly fortunate to experience this progression last night, which was very different that what I probably would have chosen myself. And it was a noticeably different experience from my last one at Schwa; more nuanced and while still homey, it included many moments which were much more refined as well.

=R=

[ulterior epicure]

When you decide yourself what to eat it at a chef-driven restraurant like Schwa, the meal may end up being great but it's never as relevant as when you eat what the chef wants to serve you.  When I go off on my own, I'm always worried that I'm going to miss out on something great.  The chef's self-chosen canvas is almost certain to be a better and more representative one for the chef than the one you bring in for him.

Agreed ronnie. I always fear that a la carte ordering for me will end up into being a personally limiting experience - and that's the last thing I would want to happen at great, what I call auteur chef-driven, establishment like Schwa.

u.e.

[Alex]

The restaurant is booked for all weekends through September THe weekday evenings offer options for diners that have yet to try the profound abilities of these accomplished chefs.

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I'd like to add that even a weekday reservation can be a tough catch. A couple of days ago I wanted to book a a party of six for a particular Thursday in July. They said there was absolutely nothing available on that day for six, or even four; they could squeeze in just two at either 5:30 or 9:30. Also, probably because they're so busy, it took two days to return my initial voice mail message. I'm glad to hear the quality of the food hasn't suffered under the onslaught, though.

Edited June 10, 2006 by Alex (log)

[docsconz]

I dined at Schwa for the first time last Friday night. With my flight in delayed I had to go directly to the restaurant from the airport. My taxi made it in from Midway in what must have been record time. Fortunately our table in this otherwise Lilliputian-sized but comfortable restaurant had space sufficient for my carry-on bag without inconveniencing anyone. While the space may be small, the quality of the food coming from the kitchen is gargantuan. It is amazing that the limited staff of this restaurant can do so much in so little a space. While not every dish was fantastic, the highs were indeed to the stratosphere.

The only complaint I can muster is one relevant only to eccentrics like myself who like to photograph their food. The lighting was not conducive to fine food photography - at least not in my shaky hands. As a result I did not get presentable photos of a few courses , while the ones I am putting here are barely that - so please do not dismiss the food if my photos fail to do it justice.

Our amuse of carrot juice with cardamom and a cardamom marshmallow - good though not extraordinary.

I did not get any reasonable photos of the beef tartare or white anchovy salad courses. Both were good. I liked the tartare, but the celery taste was a bit too prominent in the finish. The anchovy salad was very good, though I was not as excited by it as some earlier posters.

The Spring Salad looked as if it came from a Miro' canvas, but tasted like a Stravinsky score. This was marvelous.

The prosciutto consomme wasnovel, fun and delicious - a winner in my book.

The quail egg ravioli were everything I had read about and more. These were sublime - atruly great dish. Unfortunately, they are also a very time consuming and difficult dish to make and are no longer available from the regular menu.

Scallop with morels, meyer lemon and lavender. This was very good, but a little sweet for my taste. As good as the dish was, I can't help but think I would have preferred it made with regular lemon rather than the sweeter Meyer. The scallop was already sweet enough, I think the additional tartness of regular lemons would have served me better.

Sable fish with pineapple, macadamia, taro root and prosciutto. This dish had the taste of the tropics, but once again was a little too sweet for my preference. Others at our table really, really enjoyed this though.

Veal sweetbreads with pickled rhubarb, arugula sprouts and Humboldt Fog cheese. Like Ronnie, I thought this dish was spectacular, vying with the ravioli as the course of the evening. The balance of temperature, flavors and textures was nigh on perfect.

Beef ribeye with eggs, taleggio and summer truffles. This course was another hedonistic winner, though not quite on a par with the ravioli and sweetbreads. The eggs with truffles were silken decadence.

We were given two different desserts. One with strawberries and olive oil ice cream was good, but the better one was the one with chocolate and truffles, especially the truffle milk-shake.

Chef Carlson and his crew are indeed extremely talented and quite deserving of the accolades received. I thought the best dishes of the evening were those that displayed his experience in Italy, but clearly he has ability well beyond that. Though not averything was perfect, my criticisms are quibbling especially given the constraints facing the restaurant and the incredible value provided. I look forward to reading about and eating Chef Carlson and his staff's food for a long, long time.

[Alex]

The Spring Salad looked as if it came from a Miro' canvas, but tasted like a Stravinsky score. This was marvelous.

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The Rite of Spring? Oh, wait -- that's a different restaurant.

Thanks for a great report, doc. As I mentioned, I couldn't get a reservation at Schwa for next month, but at least I can enjoy it vicariously.

Edited June 15, 2006 by Alex (log)

[docsconz]

The Spring Salad looked as if it came from a Miro' canvas, but tasted like a Stravinsky score. This was marvelous.

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The Rite of Spring? Oh, wait -- that's a different restaurant.

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It may be a different restaurant, but if the notes fit...

[rhinopias]

docsconz -

I would be very interested to read about your experience of interacting/observing the chefs during your dinner. Every time I've been to Schwa I leave feeling so inspired having watched these two boys cook on their terms, in their space.

J

[LAZ]

Just to report that Schwa is closed till June 22 and not taking reservations until then.

[ronnie_suburban]

Just to report that Schwa is closed till June 22 and not taking reservations until then.

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I believe they are attending the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen, CO

=R=

[docsconz]

docsconz -

  I would be very interested to read about your experience of interacting/observing the chefs during your dinner. Every time I've been to Schwa I leave feeling so inspired having watched these two boys cook on their terms, in their space.

J

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The chefs were clearly busy as they were cooking and in the dining room quite frequently assisting with the service. They are very serious about what they are doing and it shows. They do a lot with very little in terms of space, equipment and personnel.

[molto e]

I had a dinner recently at Schwa and the cuisine of Chef Michael Carlson, Sous-Chef Nathan Klingbail and crew (for those that do not know- two others TOTAL) continue their ascent to the top echelon of Chicago dining. There is no longer an a la carte option, but as Chef Carlson would say "Be Schwa (meaning chill)" and select either the 5 course or 9 course tasting menu. The food at Schwa puts an edgy spin to classical food using delicious and innovative combinations. If one is a lover of all things food then Schwa is not to be missed. If Schwa were in the country side of Italy or France not off Ashland this would be "Michelin level" food with the inn keeper cooking and serving your meal.

9 Course Tasting Menu

I will post pictures of dishes that have not been posted prior on the thread (as noted previously, the lighting is tricky)

amuse- carrot juice with cardamom foam and a roasted cardamom marshmallow with carrot chip

The Cardamom foam complimented the carrot juice and the roasted marshmallow was tasty.

spring Salad- strawberry, fava, fennel , goat cheese

Great summer salad with a range of textures and flavors from the shaved raw fennel to the strawberry puree. One component of the salad that was not listed was saba.

proscuitto consomme- melon, arugula

A Schwa signature dish.

quail egg ravioli- ricotta, brown butter, parmigiano reggianno

This was my first time eating this etheral dish. This was absolutley delicious with the creamy buffalo ricotta nestling the quail yolk covered by perfectly crafted pasta dressed with brown butter and fried sage-WOW!

oooze shot

illinois sturgeon caviar- avocado, cauliflower

caviar goodness

This dish came together so well with the cauliflower florets sitting next to the caviar laying on top of the cauliflower cream hiding a layer of avocado puree.

lobster- potatoes, gooseberries, lavender

lobster

What is not to love about butter poached lobster sitting on potato puree with roasted fingerling potatoes and gooseberries heightened by a lavender foam!

sweetbreads- rhubarb, humboldt fog

sweetbreads

I loved the ying and yang between the red wine rhubarb and the Humboldt Fog goat cheese. The sweetbreads were cooked spot on as well.

kumamoto oyster- passion fruit, pickled daikon, candied radish chip

beef ribeye- eggs, taleggio, summer truffles

steak and eggs

Wagyu ribeye cap, braised veal cheek, dandelion greens, taleggio, honey scrambled eggs and shaved italian summer truffle make this dish a luxurious way to end the savory part of the menu. One note is Chef Carlson's way with taleggio cheese. The two times that I have eaten at Schwa, he has used taleggio in two different delicous ways. He paired it this way the last time that I ate at Schwa:

Sweetbreads, Roasted Potato, Potato Puree, Rosemary, Taleggio, Truffle Honey and Shaved White Truffle

Tip: When eating at Schwa sit facing outward so when the truffle milkshake comes you can grab it before it hits the table.

truffle milkshake with chocolate truffle ganache, buffalo ricotta covered chocolate cake with shaved Italian summer truffles

I was not going to "suffer" the same fate that Doc did when he did not get this awesome dessert. Much has been said about the truffle milkshake, but the ricotta under the truffled ganache made the cake a winner.

olive oil nicoise olive shortcake- olive oil ice cream, candied nicoise olives, strawberry, basil

This was a nice dessert, but I was not sharing my truffle shake so I did not get much.

At $90 dollars for a 9 course tasting that included wagyu ribeye, sweetbreads, caviar, oysters, butter poached lobster etc., I feel Schwa is one of the best gourmet bargains in the city. Weekends can be difficult to get a reservation so try to make one for a weekday.

Good Eating,

Molto E

[ulterior epicure]

Good Eating,

Molto E

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Mmmm hmmmm... good eating, indeed. Thanks for the report and pictures, Molto E.

u.e.

[docsconz]

Nice report Eliot as usual. I am still bummed that I wasn't the recipient of the truffle dessert. The strawberry/olive dessert was good, but it paled in comparison. The quail egg ravioli dish is truly ethereal - a candidate for the single best dish I have had this year.

[little ms foodie]

just catching up on this thread, so glad that both doc and molto have had a chance to get to Schwa!

Edited July 24, 2006 by little ms foodie (log)