NYT Articles on Food, Drink, Cooking, and Culinary Culture (2005–2011)

[Milagai]

"Late encounter with a bluefin"

(Lawrence Downes)

http://www.nytimes.com/2007/12/02/opinion/...tml?ref=opinion

"The bluefin tuna is at the pinnacle of the sushi and sashimi kingdom, and suffers greatly for it. Its numbers have plunged 90 percent since the 1970s. The bluefin is nearing collapse, and its abundant misfortune is passed on to countless other creatures — the unwanted fish, turtles and seabirds killed as bycatch, the immense tonnage of smaller fish vacuumed up to fatten captured bluefin in Mediterranean “farms.”

Governments and conservationists have long sounded the alarm, but no one really controls the open seas or has found the limits of the human appetite for luxury seafood. An international conference in Turkey last month could have slowed the carnage, but didn’t. ... "We'd better marvel while we can"."

Question: in the face of such trends, why do people keep choosing to consume

such products?

[jsmeeker]

I would guess that a lot of sushi eaters have no clue. Of those that do, there are probably many that don't care as long as it still shows up on the menu at their local sushi joint.

[slkinsey]

Subject to revision by real data to the contrary, I assume that most of the sushi is eaten in Japan or by Japanese expatriates. Not to put too fine a point to it, but we are talking about a country and a culture that still continues to hunt and kill endangered whales under the guise of "research" (and continually applies diplomatic pressure to ease bans on commercial whaling and to expand the number and kind of whales they can kill for "scientific purposes") in order to satisfy demand for whale meat.

Here is an interesting and thread-relevant quote from a piece by BBC News:

There are other reasons for Japan's determined campaign [to promote whale eating in Japan and increase Japan's whale harvest].

"If the current ban on hunting whales is allowed to become permanent," says Hideki Moronuki, at the Fisheries Agency, the government department leading the campaign, "activists may direct their efforts to restricting other types of fishing."

As Japan consumes more fish than any other nation, it worries about possible curbs on its fishing activities in open seas for species like tuna.

[adegiulio]

I would guess that a lot of sushi eaters have no clue.  Of those that do, there are probably many that don't care as long as it still shows up on the menu at their local sushi joint.

←

Count me as one who had no clue. I'll do some of my own research and adjust my tuna consumption accordngly

[SundaySous]

Interesting industry. According to Wikipedia The highest price ever paid for one was $120,000. I think the alarm has been sounding about their decline since the late 70's among other fish stocks.

I remember seeing a documentary that showed one Bluefin being auctioned in Japan from the deck of a tuna boat thousands of miles away. Damn thing went for $26,000.

From what I understand you don't fish for Bluefin it's more like winning the lottery while fishing for other fish.

I also understand captured Bluefin are also fattened outside the Mediterranean. Nova Scotia

for one comes to mind. I think Japan is the only country that tries to raise them as opposed to just fattening them.

Your best chance of catching one would be off the waters of Cape Verde. Island nation remotely located in the Atlantic off the West coast of Africa. One of the poorest places on Earth with an undeveloped Fishing industry. Bluefin travel the open Ocean but for some reason Cape Verde sees more than their share. Maybe they spawn there.

I don't know why their waters are not plundered by other nations but I understand their economic zone is respected. I only know about Cape Verde because of friends that do research their.

Recent documentary on commercial fishing would be The History Channel's, “Modern Marvels: Commercial Fishing”. Fascinating what they are doing with net technology to help ensure fish stocks.

[djyee100]

Subject to revision by real data to the contrary, I assume that most of the sushi is eaten in Japan or by Japanese expatriates. 

Japan appears to be the major market force on the buying side. But look at the chart as to who's selling bluefin. http://www.globefish.org/index.php?id=3546

I thought this was a good, concise overview of the situation. http://www.dbc.uci.edu/~sustain/global/sensem/bluefin.htm

[Shalmanese]

Not to put too fine a point to it, but we are talking about a country and a culture that still continues to hunt and kill endangered whales under the guise of "research"

Cite that Japan is hunting endangered whales? As far as I know, the only whale they hunt is the minke which is currently not listed as endangered.

[slkinsey]

Not to put too fine a point to it, but we are talking about a country and a culture that still continues to hunt and kill endangered whales under the guise of "research"

Cite that Japan is hunting endangered whales? As far as I know, the only whale they hunt is the minke which is currently not listed as endangered.

BBC News: Japanese whalers hunt humpbacks

Edited December 10, 2007 by slkinsey (log)

[Adam Balic]

Not to put too fine a point to it, but we are talking about a country and a culture that still continues to hunt and kill endangered whales under the guise of "research"

Cite that Japan is hunting endangered whales? As far as I know, the only whale they hunt is the minke which is currently not listed as endangered.

BBC News: Japanese whalers hunt humpbacks

←

It has also been well documented that other species have been targeted. One famous example was a DNA documented fin-blue whale hybrid that was found in a Japanese supermarket.

Getting back to the Bluefin tuna, another thing to consider is that much of the bluefin tuna is actually the Southern Bluefin tuna species. Also in trouble.

[Kent Wang]

I refrain from eating mediocre bluefin -- only the most choice cuts. This decreases my total consumption of bluefin while still allowing me to enjoy it on occasion.

[Dianabanana]

Because most of it is eaten in the form of sushi, it's easy to think that you can't possibly be contributing very much to the problem. After all, you don't eat sushi every day (even in Japan) and when you do, it's just a teeny tiny slice. "Just this tiny little bit," you think.

[Hiroyuki]

The Japanese consume about one-fourth of total tuna caught worldwide, and keep on receiving warning messages from the mass media.

We can't stop consuming tuna in a day or two (for the same reason why people cannot stop consuming beef simply because of cattle burping), and efforts are underway to culture tuna.

[Adam Balic]

The Japanese consume about one-fourth of total tuna caught worldwide, and keep on receiving warning messages from the mass media.

We can't stop consuming tuna in a day or two (for the same reason why people cannot stop consuming beef simply because of cattle burping), and efforts are underway to culture tuna.

←

I would be very interested in knowing what the awareness level of the average consumer in Japan regarding tuna stocks, or even "foodie" Japanese .

To my knowledge tuna is ranched, which means that young wild fish are raised in pens, rather then being bred? If this is the case it still isn't contributing that much towards wild stocks?

[Peter the eater]

If you really want to get depressed about the state of the world's oceans and its fish get a copy of National Geographic Magazine from April 2007.

Here is a link to their online magazine.

[SundaySous]

Is there a difference between open water Atlantic and Mediterranean Bluefin? I mean in market price?

Another question would be is there a difference in taste and texture between a 1,500 pound and a 500 pound Tuna?

[Hiroyuki]

The Japanese consume about one-fourth of total tuna caught worldwide, and keep on receiving warning messages from the mass media.

We can't stop consuming tuna in a day or two (for the same reason why people cannot stop consuming beef simply because of cattle burping), and efforts are underway to culture tuna.

←

I would be very interested in knowing what the awareness level of the average consumer in Japan regarding tuna stocks, or even "foodie" Japanese .

To my knowledge tuna is ranched, which means that young wild fish are raised in pens, rather then being bred? If this is the case it still isn't contributing that much towards wild stocks?

←

It's hard for me to answer your question. I know no average Japanese; all Japanese I know are unique individuals. We may be unable to eat tuna within a few decades, that's about all most Japanese, including me, know about this crisis. Some do nothing about it, and others like me try to eat as much of it as we can while it's still available.

The artificial hatching of tuna eggs has already been successful, and some even say that in the future, cultured ones will be enough to cover the demand.

Pens? Yes, large pens, or nets, are necessary for culturing tuna. They need to swin constantly because otherwise they will die for lack of air.

[SundaySous]

I really hope farming turns out to be more economical than harvesting. I think it is the only way the the fish populations may recover.

Molecular gastronomy may be another hope. I know there has got to be some chef out there researching making cockroaches the next foise gras. Lotta protein in a cockroach.

[Hiroyuki]

Is there a difference between open water Atlantic and Mediterranean Bluefin? I mean in market price?

Another question would be is there a difference in taste and texture between a 1,500 pound and a 500 pound Tuna?

←

I only know the destination of the best tuna: Tsukiji Wholesale Market in Tokyo. (This may not be the case these days because non Japanese buyers can outbid the Japanese.)

It is often said, the bigger the tuna the better, then again, there are people who say otherwise. At a wholesale market, buyers estimate the quality of each tuna by looking carefully at the cut end of its tail fin.

[Adam Balic]

The Japanese consume about one-fourth of total tuna caught worldwide, and keep on receiving warning messages from the mass media.

We can't stop consuming tuna in a day or two (for the same reason why people cannot stop consuming beef simply because of cattle burping), and efforts are underway to culture tuna.

←

I would be very interested in knowing what the awareness level of the average consumer in Japan regarding tuna stocks, or even "foodie" Japanese .

To my knowledge tuna is ranched, which means that young wild fish are raised in pens, rather then being bred? If this is the case it still isn't contributing that much towards wild stocks?

←

It's hard for me to answer your question. I know no average Japanese; all Japanese I know are unique individuals. We may be unable to eat tuna within a few decades, that's about all most Japanese, including me, know about this crisis. Some do nothing about it, and others like me try to eat as much of it as we can while it's still available.

←

Given the likelihood the consumption of tuna by unique individuals in Japan is likely to occur while any remaining commercial stock remain, I wonder if the technology for culturing tuna to adulthood will ever develop? Unlikely I would guess.

[Hiroyuki]

If any of you are interested:

http://www.a-marine.co.jp/en_top/index.html

The A-marine Kindai Co., Ltd. was established to provide consumers with fish developed and cultured by the Kinki University Fisheries Laboratory which has over 55-years history in pursuing safety and producing the ultimate taste. The company was founded based on the exceptional-case system for minimal capital regulation of the partially amended New Business Creation Promotion Law.

On the basis of farming technology and marketing strategies that have been deployed by the Kinki University Fisheries Laboratory, we are marketing not only kue nabe (kelp grouper pots) and other processed foods but young yellowtails, red sea breams, striped jacks, bastard halibuts, tiger puffers and, in particular, Bluefin tunas that were first successfully cultured in June 2002 which was a worlds first .

Related story by the Japan Times:

http://search.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/nb20040507a3.html

[Adam Balic]

Very interesting. I notice that the interest is directed towards ensuring that prized fish manage to remain on Japanese menus, rather then any conservation angle?

Bluefin Tuna are a top order predator and obviously have a great impact on other fish stocks. From what I have been told on this thread, I quite suprised that Japanese individuals have little interest in fish stocks other then as a indication of how much they should concern themselves with eating is much as possible while the commercial wild stocks remain?

Edited December 19, 2007 by Adam Balic (log)

[Hiroyuki]

Very interesting. I notice that the interest is directed towards ensuring that prized fish manage to remain on Japanese menus, rather then any conservation angle?

Bluefin Tuna are a top order predator and obviously have a great impact on other fish stocks. From what I have been told on this thread, I quite suprised that Japanese individuals have little interest in fish stocks other then as a indication of how much they should concern themselves with eating is much as possible while the commercial wild stocks remain?

←

I kind of understand what you mean, but do you think that the Japanese stop eating tuna in a day? Everyone hopes and expects that problems will be solved scientifically. Did I answer your question?

[TAPrice]

Bluefin Tuna are a top order predator and obviously have a great impact on other fish stocks. From what I have been told on this thread, I quite suprised that Japanese individuals have little interest in fish stocks other then as a indication of how much they should concern themselves with eating is much as possible while the commercial wild stocks remain?

←

It seems unwise to generalize about an entire people based on a few comments here.

I wonder how often conservation efforts succeed by changing the habits of a large group of consumers? My guess is that such efforts succeed by wining over a few vocal, politically engaged consumers, who then pressure chefs, stores and other suppliers.

[Milagai]

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/14/world/af...?pagewanted=all

The title says "Europe takes Africa's fish and boatloads of migrants follow"

(that is, the African oceans are emptied, and people who have lost their livelihood move to Europe seeking work).

The second article in the series:

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/15/world/eu...&pagewanted=all

excerpt:

"Fish is now the most traded animal commodity on the planet, with about 100 million tons of wild and farmed fish sold each year. Europe has suddenly become the world’s largest market for fish, worth more than 14 billion euros, or about $22 billion a year. Europe’s appetite has grown as its native fish stocks have shrunk so that Europe now needs to import 60 percent of fish sold in the region, according to the European Union.

In Europe, the imbalance between supply and demand has led to a thriving illegal trade. Some 50 percent of the fish sold in the European Union originates in developing nations, and much of it is laundered like contraband, caught and shipped illegally beyond the limits of government quotas or treaties. The smuggling operation is well financed and sophisticated, carried out by large-scale mechanized fishing fleets able to sweep up more fish than ever, chasing threatened stocks from ocean to ocean.

....

While small local fishermen in West Africa tend to fish sustainably, large seagoing boats use practices that are dangerous to the environment, particularly the use of vast nets to trawl the sea bed. The nets destroy coral, and unsettle eggs and fish breeding grounds. They gulp up fish that cannot be sold because they are too small. Their competition decimates local fishing industries.

By the time huge mechanized vessels have thrown the unsalable juveniles back into the sea, they are often dead, bringing stocks another step closer to extinction. Of the estimated 90 million tons of fish caught worldwide each year, about 30 million tons are discarded, Ms. Vesper of the World Wide Fund for Nature said.

...

In the short term, prices will be higher. Procuring genuinely sustainable fish means buying more expensive fish, or not eating fish at all. “We’ve acted as if the supply of fish was limitless and it’s not,” said Steve Trent, executive director of the Environmental Justice Foundation."

What do people feel motivated to do? Eat less fish, or eat as much as they can while supplies last? Or is your local fish economic and ecologic system outside this nexus?

[mcohen]

Not to put too fine a point to it, but we are talking about a country and a culture that still continues to hunt and kill endangered whales under the guise of "research" (and continually applies diplomatic pressure to ease bans on commercial whaling and to expand the number and kind of whales they can kill for "scientific purposes") in order to satisfy demand for whale meat.

i fail to see how this innuendo is relevant to this discussion.