Lebanese wines

[Pan]

While having a look at the Lebanon Daily Star, I noticed this article about Lebanese wines:

"Promote Lebanese wine, or it could die on the vine"

What do you think of Lebanese wines? How widely available are they where you live?

[Behemoth]

What do you think of Lebanese wines? How widely available are they where you live?

I of course love them, and not entirely for patriotic reasons

I can often find a couple of brands at wine stores that carry smaller boutique labels. My place in Urbana carries Musar (probably the most highly regarded producer) as well as Kefraya. But even the smaller brands are very enjoyable -- we had a case from a fairly obscure label sent to us for our wedding by a friend of the family and it went over very well. I have to admit that I find it much easier to get a wider variety in Europe...Lebanon just doesn't seem to be on the radar in the US. There was, however, a very favorable article that came out in the NYTimes in the 80's -- I remember it very well, as it was during the height of the war, and it was very nice to see something in the western press which acknowledged a civilized life beyond the fighting.

Unfortunately, I don't know much about the wine scene right now as it was still recovering from the war when I left. I will have to remedy that: I will definitely be getting a copy of the author's book, mentioned at the end of the article. And sampling as much as possible in the next few weeks

[zeitoun]

I've seen Musar and Kefraya here in NY but in middle eastern restaurants only. Quite frankly i've never looked for them in wine shops but i'm pretty sure they are available. I haven't tasted many lebanese wines but Musar is arguably amongst the best out there. I personally like it quite a bit.

Nevertheless, it is true, as Behemoth pointed out, that a greater variety is available in Europe (especially in France).

[Daniel Rogov]

There is no question but that the wines of Lebanon are on the rise in both quality and quantity and that Michael Karem's comments are to be taken most seriously. For another interview with Karem, see http://www.reason.com/interviews/michaelkaram.shtml

Alas, Lebanon is Israel's neighbor but for reasons of politics and misguided ideology the importation of the wines of Lebanon into Israel is illegal (as is the importation of Israeli wines into Lebanon). Sad because the Bek'aa, the northern Galilee and the Golan have so much in common and our winemakers would profit well from regular contact and cooperation. Also sad on a personal basis because even though Michael and I live only an hour apart one from the other by air, we cannot meet for morning coffees.

Oh yes...many sophisticatged Israeli wine drinkers do indeed drink Lebanese wines. The majority of those are obtained on trips abroad to London and some wines even manage to make there way across the border tucked into valises. One of the few cases where we can be proud of our local smugglers.

Not too long ago several of the members of my own little wine forum held a tasting of Lebanese wines in Tel Aviv. The tasting notes and comments on those wines (posted by quite a few of the participants) can be seen at http://stratsplace.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=8040

Edited June 11, 2005 by Daniel Rogov (log)

[SWISS_CHEF]

In Switzerland we can find:

Kefraya

Kouruom

Ksara

and Musar

Of the famous Lebanese wines I have only tried Musar. I have been enjoying Musar since the very early 70's vintages which I bought back in the late 80's. Of all the Musars I have tried the the '78 stands out the most in my memory. In fact I gave an interview to the Kansas City Star back in '89 and I strongly recommended the wine to the readers. Oddly enough, several of my wine drinking friends criticized my recommendation and said it was a "funky" wine that would only appeal to a very limited market. I still maintain my original opinion of the wine, I think the "Château Musar" is usually an outstanding wine. I feel the "Tradition" label lacks the power of it's big brother so I don't buy it. I see they are even making a "Musar Jeune" bottled within 2 months but I have not tried it.

Edit: As I reflect on Musar I think it might have been the 79 not the 78 that I liked best but either way both were drinking VERY well in the early 90's. From the 79 I remember the horse-stable and leather nose like it was only yesterday. Only one other wine is as equally seared into my memory...the 1985 Beaucastel.

Alas, Lebanon is Israel's neighbor but for reasons of politics and misguided ideology the importation of the wines of Lebanon into Israel is illegal (as is the importation of Israeli wines into Lebanon).  Sad because the Bek'aa, the northern Galilee and the Golan have so much in common and our winemakers would profit well from regular contact and cooperation.  Also sad on a personal basis because even though Michael and I live only an hour apart one from the other by air, we cannot meet for morning coffees.

Oh yes...many sophisticatged Israeli wine drinkers do indeed drink Lebanese wines.  The majority of those are obtained on trips abroad to London and some wines even manage to make there way across the border tucked into valises.  One of the few cases where we can be proud of our local smugglers. 

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Bravo! What a pleasure it must have been to blow against the bitter winds of policy and government and sample the forbidden fruits of your neighbor's land.

Edited June 11, 2005 by SWISS_CHEF (log)

[Behemoth]

Mr. Rogov, I actually first came across your website a few years ago when I was looking for reviews of Lebanese wines

One question -- I remember reading somewhere that Lebanese wines had a weird quirk where they started out very light and fruity, almost floral, and then had about 5 years or so of ageing during which they went a bit off and tasted kind of funky, then mellowed out and got better again after that period. Am I just hallucinating that article, or is this possible?

[culinary bear]

Musar, Ksara and Kefraya all available over in the UK... I was lucky enough to go and see my friend Alan at Villeneuve Wine in Edinburgh a while ago just after he got a vertical of Kefraya in for tasting. :) the '81 was rather lovely.

[Daniel Rogov]

Behemoth (Although I'm sure you are not truly a behemoth), Hi...

Your imagination is not at all playing tricks on you nor are you into hallucinations. Some Lebanese wines, especially those of Chateau Musar, tend to go into a dumb period, that is to say, a period where seemingly of a sudden the youth, vigor and fruitiness of the wine seem to have gone into hiding. During these periods the wine is simply flat and lacking charm. It does not, however, show signs of having oxidized, caramelized or suffering from any other of the problems that over the hill wines tend to show. Some, on tasting wines during this period think the wine has gone on to wherever it is in paradise that once excellent wines go on dying. All of which is rather a shame, for these wines do indeed "come back" after a period of anywhere from three to five years.

Anticipating the question of how to explain this phenomenon......all I can do is come up with apologies for neither I nor the departments of oenology at the University of California at Davis, the University at Grenoble or the University at Bordeaux can come up with any physical or chemical logic behind this. That it happens with some vintages is undeniable. Perhaps one day it will even be explainable.

Should you open such a bottle, alas but nothing to do but to consign it to the kitchen sink, but if you have others on hand, best is to hold them for 3 - 5 years and then to try again, probably with remarkable results. Should you have questions about specific years of Musar, don't hesitate to contact me by email at drogov@cheerful.com and if I have a track record of the wine I'll be glad to share it.

Edited June 11, 2005 by Daniel Rogov (log)

[docsconz]

I have had wines from both Musar and Kefraya. Of the two I prefer Musar and have a number of vintages in my cellar. That certain wines may "close" for a period of time is certainly not limited to Ch. Musar. This happens to a number of fine wines. That Musar is a little "funky" is something I like about it. It is unique and not a cookie-cutter wine.

I had the pleasure of dining with Serge Hochar a few years ago and at that time tasted a number of vintages of both the reds and whites. While the red wines are marvellous and age extremely well, my recollection is that he was most proud of the aging potential of his white wines.

[SWISS_CHEF]

Some Lebanese wines, especially those of Chateau Musar, tend to go into a dumb period, that is to say, a period where seemingly of a sudden the youth, vigor and fruitiness of the wine seem to have gone into hiding. During these periods the wine is simply flat and lacking charm. 

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I have a friend that, because of these dumb periods, will only buy his best Barolo directly from the wine maker so that he can call him back and ask if it is ok to drink. He says it happens very often that the wine maker tells him to wait a year and call him back.

[chefzadi]

I have to admit that I find it much easier to get a wider variety in Europe...Lebanon just doesn't seem to be on the radar in the US.

Add Algeria to the list of cuisines/cultures 'under the radar'.

I really miss the variety of Arabic, North African and halal products they have in France. But in Los Angeles, I'm not left wanting too much except for the halal charcuterie.

I wonder if most of the Islamic countries produce wine? I know they do in North Africa. Algerian wines can be very good and I'm not saying that for patriotic reasons.

I'll look for the Lebanese wines mentioned, I'm sure they carry it at the Middle Eastern stores around here.

[Behemoth]

I wonder if most of the Islamic countries produce wine? I know they do in North Africa. Algerian wines can be very good and I'm not saying that for patriotic reasons.

I have heard Saudis produce the deadliest hooch known to mankind.

But Farid, you will no doubt be pleased to know the modern Lebanese wine industry was begun with Cinsault vines imported from Algeria Actually, I think one of the articles linked above mentions that.

[jayt90]

There is a strong Christian influence in Lebanon. The wine makers are not necessarily Muslim followers. It is interesting to note that Ch. Musar developed a reputation for quality after Serge Hochar was sent to Bordeaux by his family to learn French winemaking. Is this not similar to the Penfold family sending Max Schubert to Bordeaux? In a similar era?

[chefzadi]

I wonder if most of the Islamic countries produce wine? I know they do in North Africa. Algerian wines can be very good and I'm not saying that for patriotic reasons.

I have heard Saudis produce the deadliest hooch known to mankind.

But Farid, you will no doubt be pleased to know the modern Lebanese wine industry was begun with Cinsault vines imported from Algeria Actually, I think one of the articles linked above mentions that.

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The Phoenicians were in North Africa before the Romans. I guess we keep passing things back and forth.

[chefzadi]

There is a strong Christian influence in Lebanon. The wine makers are not necessarily Muslim followers.  It is interesting to note that Ch. Musar developed a reputation for quality after Serge Hochar was sent to Bordeaux by his family to learn French winemaking.  Is this not similar to the Penfold family sending Max Schubert to Bordeaux?  In a similar era?

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Of course Jay, I didn't mean to exclude anyone. I could have said Arab world, but that would exclude the Amazighs

[Vinfidel]

Had a '99 Kefraya and a '98 Musar tonight with a traditional Lebanese grilled dinner... sorry to say that both these wines pale in comparison to what is being done in Israel today. IMHO, young Israeli winemakers are at the top of their game making wines that are relevant today and will age well, whereas Musar and Kefraya are uninspiring. Also I can't confirm that anything but plonk comes out of Algeria, having been there several times in the last few years. Was really quite sorely disappointed to see that the best of their wines seemed to be the pink plonk served on the hotel terasses.