Moroccan Tagine Cooking

[Adam Balic]

A quick question regarding cinnamon in North African cooking. Is there a prefered type to be used? In various recipes I see mention of both Ceylon cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylanicum) and cassia/Chinese cinnamon (Cinnamomum cassia), but sometimes I'm not clear on which one to use.

[fifi]

I can't help you on the seasonings.

The relative performance of the pots LC/glazed pottery/unglazed pottery, doesn't surprise me. Both the LC and glazed pottery are non-absorbent but they have very different thermal properties. Of course, with the unglazed you have that absorption thing going on. I am sure that some of the fat went into the clay but I have no idea how much. We have already discussed why there is less water in the unglazed clay.

There is a tendency to think that oil will "seal" the clay. I am not sure that is what is going on. I would expect oil to migrate into the clay and some to remain there adsorbed to the particle surfaces. This means that the oil is "attached" via molecular forces and would leave the pot still "porous" to water and water vapor. There was plenty of olive oil in that recipe that I did in the Chamba and the subsequent bean cooking I did here didn't seem to stop water migration when I cooked the beans. What I don't know is, after years of cooking, whether or not the structure gets "clogged up." Remember we are dealing with the microscopic and molecular structure here.

[Wolfert]

Adam,

Both types of cinnamon are used in Moroccan cooking.

The cassia is used more often in tagines; the softer 'real' cinnamon is more elegant for desserts.

Bisteeya or bstilla is, to my taste, delicious with the softer cinnamon.

[Wolfert]

whether or not the structure gets "clogged up." Remember we are dealing with the microscopic and molecular structure here.

The romertopf company has a website called claypotcooking.com. There I have read warnings that the romertopf is in danger of clogged pores, thus making the pots unusable. Of course, they are soaking the pot before each use and cooking by the released steam.

Fifi: I'm beginning to believe it makes very little difference whether you use a fully glazed, semi glazed or unglazed ceramic pot for tagines. Am I correct?

[Adam Balic]

Ah, that is good to know, as you know the default in the UK is to use 'real' cinnamon.

[Smithy]

Wow, Paula. Talk about a wealth of knowledge! Thank you!

First off, I may have given an incorrect impression. I can't look at the book again until tonight, but it's possible that the Djaj Mqualli is presented as Middle Eastern (as the name of the book implies) rather than Moroccan - unless that name is by definition a Moroccan, or otherwise North African, name? It's entirely possible that I picked up a recipe and misunderstood its intent. I was looking for something different to do with the chicken than I'd already done, with the ingredients I had on hand. (Now I've run out of preserved lemons.)

It sounds as though I got the procedure right for using the tagine, taking the ingredients from a recipe written for Le Creuset. Do you agree? Or did I miss a step or add something in? Should I not have browned at the end?

Second: I think you're saying the cinnamon didn't belong with the preserved lemons and olives, and that the recipe is a blend of two versions - one the savory, one the sweet. Did I understand correctly? It seemed out of balance for me, but people's tastes vary.

Third: The sauce discussion. The flash of illumination here was enough to make people wonder where the photographer was! That is exactly how my mind works: eight major sauces, certain ingredients they'd go with, certain dish types they'd be used on. That makes sense. Have you written it that way in any of your books? Do you intend to? Or would you be willing to expound on those sauces and their applications somewhere around here?

[fifi]

whether or not the structure gets "clogged up." Remember we are dealing with the microscopic and molecular structure here.

The romertopf company has a website called claypotcooking.com. There I have read warnings that the romertopf is in danger of clogged pores, thus making the pots unusable. Of course, they are soaking the pot before each use and cooking by the released steam.

Fifi: I'm beginning to believe it makes very little difference whether you use a fully glazed, semi glazed or unglazed ceramic pot for tagines. Am I correct?

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Ah ha! They are "steam cleaning" as they go. I am not really being sarcastic about that. It makes sense.

I think you are largely correct about the glazed versus unglazed tagines. I am beginning to think that there is probably not a discernable difference and that the thermal properties of the clay overshadow any effects of absorption/evaporation in the unglazed. I am sure they are there, but don't make a difference that can be seen in the cooking.

But, I think I will stick with unglazed for a while. It just looks so cool and interesting things are going on there. I have a lot to learn.

What I would like to see compared is that Le Creuset tagine versus a clay one. For some instinctive reason, a cast iron tagine has always just seemed wrong. And I have had that instinct for a long time. I have no idea why as I am just now, this late in life, becoming enamoured of clay pot cooking.

[Smithy]

Fifi: I'm beginning to believe it makes very little difference whether you use a fully glazed, semi glazed or unglazed ceramic pot for tagines. Am I correct?

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...

I think you are largely correct about the glazed versus unglazed tagines. I am beginning to think that there is probably not a discernable difference and that the thermal properties of the clay overshadow any effects of absorption/evaporation in the unglazed. I am sure they are there, but don't make a difference that can be seen in the cooking.

...

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I thought there was a discernable difference in the meat tenderness, at least with my chicken. Are you thinking that's an artifact of my technique, instead?

Edited March 21, 2005 by Smithy (log)

[Wolfert]

sounds as though I got the procedure right for using the tagine, taking the ingredients from a recipe written for Le Creuset. Do you agree? Or did I miss a step or add something in? Should I not have browned at the end?

Mqualli isn't usually browned, but I do it..

undefinedSecond: I think you're saying the cinnamon didn't belong with the preserved lemons and olives, and that the recipe is a blend of two versions - one the savory, one the sweet. Did I understand correctly? It seemed out of balance for me, but people's tastes vary.

That is exactly what I was saying.

Yes, almost all of the information I posted above is in my first book on Moroccan cooking. I have learned more since then and added it to the list. There is no way to correct the spelling since it is transliterated not only from Arabic but sometimes Berber.

The original 1973 edition had 8 photographs. Unfortunatley, the best quality slides got lost...I have some of the rejects such as this one for tagine of chicken with lemon and smothered with olives. You don't need perserved lemons, just the juice is fine. Picholine olives are the choice ones to use. When I wrote the book they weren't available here.

[

[Smithy]

I can't help you on the seasonings.

... Of course, with the unglazed you have that absorption thing going on. I am sure that some of the fat went into the clay but I have no idea how much. We have already discussed why there is less water in the unglazed clay.

There is a tendency to think that oil will "seal" the clay. I am not sure that is what is going on. I would expect oil to migrate into the clay and some to remain there adsorbed to the particle surfaces. This means that the oil is "attached" via molecular forces and would leave the pot still "porous" to water and water vapor. ...

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Fascinating, isn't it? Yes, I'm quite sure the clay is still porous to water; we've seen evidence of the water loss. But it seems to be doing something to the fat too. I'll settle for adsorption until a better idea comes along.

[andiesenji]

I have a question regarding cinnamon. (and other spices)

Is it (or other spices) always ground and added directly to a dish.

Back in the '70s when I hosted a young lady from Morocco who was here attending an artist's workshop for several weeks, she often broke up a selection of spices and infused them in broth or juice (and I believe once in tea) and added the liquid to a dish.

I thought at the time it was because she didn't consider ground spices fresh enough and that was prior to the time that electric spice grinders were available.

She grated some of the spices but simply crushed some in a mortar.

It has been thirty years and my memory might be a little foggy, but I have been using this in a couple of recipes over the years, just not very often.

I also remember when she made couscous from scratch. We drove all over town looking for an Italian market that had "real" semolina flour so she could make it in the traditional manner.

It was fascinating but seemed like an awful lot of work so I never tried making it myself.

[Wolfert]

Tagine djej bil zeetoun meslalla magdour

In Morocco, spices are sold whole and ground. Whole are used for tisanes and for grinding your own at home in a brass mortar.

The reason you are asked to use ground spices (except for occasional cinnamon stick or bayleaf which can easily be removed) is the sauce must become smooth. Ginger, for example, is always used ground for tagines.

Onions are grated so they will dissolve. Sometimes, a second bowl of chopped onions will be added to give crunch or another texture. MOroccan food is quite complex beyond the spicing.

Nowadays, some chefs in the States use fresh ginger in place of the dried and ground. That's to their taste and that is fine.

I just prefer to write about traditional cooking.

On the other hand, there is only good tasting food and not so good tasting food. I'll go for the former everytime no matter whether it is traditional or not.

Edited March 21, 2005 by Wolfert (log)

[Smithy]

On the other hand, there is only good tasting food and not so good tasting food. I'll go for the former everytime no matter whether it is traditional or not.

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Hear, hear! If that isn't someone's tagline, it should be.

[Smithy]

*Press Release - URGENT! Immediate broadcast requested.*

"It has come to our attention that there has been a run on tagines. The tagine market is in a shambles and tagine futures are soaring basis a deepseated fear in the marketplace that supply will not keep up with demand. A congressional committee in the US has been convened to investigate. Senator Honksalot has stated, 'We will get to the bottom of this deplorable situation. Our investigators are looking into a secret Society that operates on the internet.' Stay tuned to your local news sources for updates on this fast breaking news."

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I just read this and suffered the coffee-spraying-through-the-nose syndrome so ofted described on various threads.

Thank goodness I have a "KeySkin" keyboard cover, otherwise my keyboard might be in sad shape at this time.

For some reason, as I was reading the above, the scene in the movie Li'l Abner where the "Senator Phogbound" (or whatever he was) is orating and is followed by the song "The Country's in the Very Best of Hands."

...

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I guess it's a good thing I'm reviewing this thread. Now I understand why the refrain "Jubilation T. Cornpone, Jubilation T. Cornpone, dum dum dah dah..." has been ringing through my mental Muzak system all day.

[Carolyn Tillie]

Regarding the cinnamon thing -- I followed one recipe that I found too cinnamony as well and I reverted to simply adding a whole cinnamon stick to the broth while simmering instead of using it as a powder on the meat. I think it made it more subtle. Also, the last time I made my Chicken with Preserved Lemon & Olive tagine, I had run out of dried ginger and used fresh. I think it made the overall dish 'brighter.'

[Wolfert]

Hear, hear! If that isn't someone's tagline, it should be.

I was paraphrasing my teacher, Andre Guillot, who used to say "there is only good cooking and bad cooking"

Carolyn: You aren't alone. Many American chefs use fresh ginger and prefer it that way. It is when you try to eat Moroccan style with the first three fingers of your right hand hlding a small crust of bread to dip into that smooth sauce that the strings just don't work.

Regarding the cinnamon thing -- I followed one recipe that I found too cinnamony as well and I reverted to simply adding a whole cinnamon stick to the broth while simmering instead of using it as a powder on the meat. I think it made it more subtle.

Subtle? Moroccan food? It could have been the type of cinnamon you used.

[Adam Balic]

O.K. I am going to cook some "Moroccan" food tonight. Well almost.

The mains are going to be an older form of Mrouzia and a bastardised version of Paula's "Seafood Bisteeya" (I went fishing on Sunday).

I have a copy of the Charles Perry et al. "Mediaval Arabic Cooking", which is quite fun and interesting to cook from. In the 14th century "Description of Familiar things" there is a recipe for Marwaziyya, which is named for the central asian city of Merv and is an thought to be an ancestor of the North African feast dish Mrouzia.

My version of the recipe is:

1.5 kg meat (lamb)

500 gm onions (grated)

2.5 ounces raisins

2 ounces of jujubes*

6 ounces of prunes

vinegar

mint

mixed spices

saffron

sugar

Mix meat with spices and onion, rest overnight.

Gently heat the meat mixture until fragrant

Add pre-soaked fruit

Cook for 1.5-2.0 hours, add sugar/vinegar syrup to taste.

Adjust seasoning with more spices, salt and mint, glaze under the grill and leave to settle for 10 minutes or so.

I comparison of this recipe and the extant version shows some interesting differences, the use vinegar and sugar instead of honey. The spice mixture is unknown, so I am going to male mu own.

Jububes are often called Chinese or Red dates and although they look like this they are not related to dates and are the fruit of the shrub Ziziphus jujuba. They taste similar to dates though.

This is my tagine, which I bought in Meknes, it is about 40 cm wide at the base.

I have no idea if it is a particular traditional style or if it just a tourist item, but I was very happy to get it back to Scotland intact on a backpacking holiday.

[Sackville]

Be careful in making sure your tagine is for cooking! It's hard to tell from a picture, but often the decorated ones are just for serving and not for cooking on top of the stove with. They tend to be thinner and will crack if you try and put them over heat.

[Adam Balic]

Thanks for the advice (where were you 3 years ago? ), I have cooked with it a couple of dozen time, orginally on a diffuser, but now I put it directly on the gas. No problems yet (crosses fingers).

[Sackville]

Thanks for the advice (where were you 3 years ago? ), I have cooked with it a couple of dozen time, orginally on a diffuser, but now I put it directly on the gas. No problems yet (crosses fingers).

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Glad to hear it's held up to tests! I'd just hate to see anyone ruin such a beautiful tagine. Mine is ugly as heck (just a poor man's tagine from a tiny market) but it's thick and sturdy. Don't think anything could break it.

[Adam Balic]

One of the issues with producing a workable recipe from this transaltion is that although a blend of spices is required, the exact formula isn't obvi ous.

So I have made my own blend with what I have. Some of the ingredients would definately not be in use in 14th century North Africa.

The spices I have used are:Ceylon cinnamon, nutmeg, mace, star anise, tumeric, ginger, allspice, green cardamon, black cardamon, wild fennel, long pepper, rose buds, cloves, grains of paradise, black pepper, chiles, coriander and cumin.

Blended they look like this.

These are the plumped fruits, the jubjubes are the red fruits.

[Bond Girl]

Adam, what a lovely picture of all the spices! What else is this blend of spices used for besides lambs? Have you tried it on anything else?

[Wolfert]

Hi Adam,

Looks like you are off to a good start. I haven't had the nerve to try anything from that huge book, but I love reading it!

Did you know that jujubes are thought to the famed sweet fruit in Homer's the Odyssey?

'Are you planning to put the spices through the finest strainer or pound them?

By the way, your tagine looks very homey. I think it is ok to cook in. The scary part of purchasing tagines in Morocco is that so many of the hiighly decorated ones have lead in the glaze.

Keep us posted.

I know you have been following the thread: mrouzia in Morocco is in the mqualli class of dishes with the addition of ras el hanout.

Sometime you might want to contact www.seasonedpioneers.com in Liverpool.

I buy ras el hanout as well as a few other interesting spice blends from them. There are thousands of recipes for ras el hanout. I just like the flavor their mix produces in lamb tagines.

[andiesenji]

Carolyn: You aren't alone. Many American chefs use fresh ginger and prefer it that way. It is when you try to eat Moroccan style with the first three fingers of your right hand hlding a small crust of bread to dip into that smooth sauce that the strings just don't work.

Subtle? Moroccan food? It could have been the type of cinnamon you used.

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If you use a ginger "grater" or even better, a Japanese suribachi, to grate the ginger into a juicy paste, you will have no strings at all.

I have found that this is the best way to prepare fresh ginger for use in sauces, drinks, marinades and desserts such as ices.

With the suribachi I grate the ginger against the sides of the bowl and if any coarser bits remain I work them over with the surikogi (pestle) until it is a smooth paste.

The suribachi is also my favorite utensil for making chile paste, sambals, etc.

[Wolfert]

If you use a ginger "grater" or even better, a Japanese suribachi, to grate the ginger into a juicy paste, you will have no strings at all

Andie: you and Carolyn have made excellent points. Fresh ginger is sparkly and alive! I have nothing against using it in Moroccan cooking if I knew how.

The spice blends of Morocco are the underpinnings of a cuisine unto itself, unusual and exotic.

We would need to alter the amount of each spice in any given spice mixture where ginger plays a major role.

Keep in mind, the ginger of choice in Morocco is similar in flavor to ground Jamaican, not to the more subtle Japanese ground ginger.

Some tagines could take the change without a problem:the mrouzia that Adam is working on, for example, is a dreamy tagine of incredible variety in taste, aroma and texture, a dish where ras el hanout reigns. Mrouzia is part of the mqualli family of sauces, and ginger plays a roll, but a lower one in this dish than in the mqualli with lemon and olivesi discussed upthread. Since Mqualli is one of the cornerstones of Moroccan cooking, and the ginger is dominant, I don't know if I want to tamper with a giant on my first attempt. In fact,I don't know if it is worth trying that particular dish at all. I like my mquallis with ground ginger.

If you can suggest a particular Moroccan dish that you know has been altered to use fresh ginger, I would love to try it side by side with a more traditional recipe.

.