Catalonia Restaurants

[vserna]

RGS is Basque.

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Slight correction. Rafael García Santos is not Basque. He works out of the Basque Country. He's from Cantabria, a neighboring but non-Basque region.

[helenah]

On your logistics, there is an amazing hotel called Mas de Torrent, about 30 mins taxi ride from Can Fabes. It is a Relais & Chateaux hotel, that not surprisingly has a very good restaurant www.mastorrent.com. Beautiful setting, wonderful rooms....and great food, if you feel you can eat any more!

[Judith Gebhart]

RGS has an extreme prejudice for creative cooking. My understanding is that his reviews are dependable in that genre, but he tends to dismiss traditional chefs. He considers Wylie Dufresne as the best chef in the US.

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Bux: I am truly sorry that my response to this post ended up sounding more like an endorsement for the RGS guide book, than an endorsement of the chef at Can Jubany. That was NOT my intent.

Let it be known that we check all the guide books available in Spain for our consideration of any restaurant we visit.

We have first hand experience about RGS's various views regarding both Spanish and American chefs. I am shocked that RGS views Dufresne as the best chef in the USA; I think that says more about RGS than anything else. My point was lost and seemingly overlooked about the emerging talent that we perceived at Can Jubany.

El Raco con Fabes is a definite culinary destination. The restaurant is gorgeous and Santamaria is a major talent with infinite ability to offer an exciting dining experience. Is he consistently great? Not by our experience. I would consider him a must visit. I would endorse both Sant Pau and El Celler de Can Roca as equally

first choice dining options. All are expensive and established chefs with impeccable qualifications. My suggeston for this up and coming restaurant Can Jubany might be a worthy option for this enquiring visitor.

Thank you Victor for explaining a detail about RGS's heritage. I am indebted to you for knowing the facts. I also find it very interesting!

I hope I am heard. Judith Gebhart

[Bux]

Judith, I am hearing you and I think there are only nuances of difference between what we're saying. It's not at all that I'm countering what you're saying as it is that I'm trying to make sure third parties who read here capture it all. It's clear to me that RGS's high marks go to places worth investigating. It's just that a low mark at a traditional restaurant is not something I'd worry about.

His opinion of Dufresne is very telling. I do not consider Wylie the best cook in NY, but I do think he's worthy of attention and he's doing a certain kind of food better than anyone else in NY.

I hear your recommendation of Can Jubany with mixed feelings. We're planning on spending a couple of weeks in Spain in May. Barcelona, Catalunya and probably Madrid will be on our itinerary although it's clear that two weeks is not enough and our problem is not where to eat, but which restaurants to eliminate from this trip. The pleasure of the province outside Barcelona have in the past never left us enough time and appetite to fully appreciate Barcelona's restaurants without yet another destination, but I do thank you for the recommendation. I see it already has two soles from Campsa, or did last year.

[pedro]

On your logistics, there is an amazing hotel called Mas de Torrent, about 30 mins taxi ride from Can Fabes.  It is a Relais & Chateaux hotel, that not surprisingly has a very good restaurant www.mastorrent.com.  Beautiful setting, wonderful rooms....and great food, if you feel you can eat any more!

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Welcome to the eG Forums, helenah.

Indeed Mas de Torrent is an amazing hotel in a wonderful setting. However, I don't think it's a 30 mins ride to Can Fabes, it's more like 70 mins or so. Perhaps you were thinking of Can Roca, in Girona, instead of Can Fabes?

I'll try to come back later on to write about my view on Mas Torrent's restaurant.

[butterfly]

The NY times did a tasting of Priorats:

http://www.nytimes.com/packages/html/dinin...RE/blocker.html

(requires that you sign in)

I'm looking forward to driving through this region this summer...

[paulbrussel]

Well, I had lmunch at Can Fabes, going by train from BCN; very easy and about 30 minutes, I think.

Can Roca is also very easy to reach by cab from Girona and Girona is easy to get to by train as well from BCN.

[Corinna Dunne]

I'm visitiing Barceolona (first time) from 20 - 23 April, and thanks to the wonderful contributions on the Forum, have found all I need for that part of my holiday. I've booked Cal Pep, Botafumeiro and Alkimia, so I'm very excited about that mix of styles.

Here's where I need help. I will be staying in a little farmhouse about 30 miles due north of Barcelona in Valles Oriental from 23 - 30 April. It appears that this is the 'back of beyonds', which is fine for the R & R we are seeking, but I'd really love some restaurant recommendations for lunch within say a 100 mile radius of our hideout... some very quirky, local, rustic type places, where we can really get a feel for the countryside. I have already taken note of the following (not necessarily rustic) destination restuarants and would welcome comments, new suggestions:

El Cellar de Can Roca

Le Santa Maria, Sitges

Lluernari, San Quirico des Valles

Espai.COCH at Can Fabes

Aligue, Monserrat

Gratallops, Irriductibles

Sant Pau, Sant Pol

Rafa and Snack Mar/Las Golondrinas in Roses

I'd also appreciate some wine suggestions eg the perfect Spanish white for fish, grilled meat etc.

PS: This is my first posting. I live in Ireland, so if you are visiting Dublin, I'd be happy to suggest some good spots.

[JesusBarquin]

I will be staying in a little farmhouse about 30 miles due north of Barcelona in Valles Oriental from 23 - 30 April.  It appears that this is the 'back of beyonds', which is fine for the R & R we are seeking, but I'd really love some restaurant recommendations for lunch within say a 100 mile radius of our hideout... some very quirky, local, rustic type places, where we can really get a feel for the countryside.

Do not miss Can Bonay in Peratallada.

Many other interesting places in the Empordà: Pedro will tell you, as he is sort of the 21st century spirit of Josep Pla,

I'd also appreciate some wine suggestions eg the perfect Spanish white for fish, grilled meat etc.

Do not miss either el Celler de Can Roca, ask Josep Roca to serve you a whole menu, paired with the convenient wines (and remind him to let you taste some fino or manzanilla sherries in it!: those are almost the only perfect spanish whites, )

Have a nice stay!

[Bux]

Finos and manzanillas are much under appreciated wines, especially when they are fresh. They are particularly under appreciated with simple seafood as dinner wines and all too often reserved for aperitifs only. Nevertheless, if not perfect, I've found Albariños from Galicia and Ruedas from Castilla Y Leon are both excellent with fish and seafood. They can be a bargain in the US, which means an extraordinary bargain in Spain. Locally in Catalunya there is Cava and some white Penedes wines.

[Corinna Dunne]

I will be staying in a little farmhouse about 30 miles due north of Barcelona in Valles Oriental from 23 - 30 April.  It appears that this is the 'back of beyonds', which is fine for the R & R we are seeking, but I'd really love some restaurant recommendations for lunch within say a 100 mile radius of our hideout... some very quirky, local, rustic type places, where we can really get a feel for the countryside.

Do not miss Can Bonay in Peratallada.

Many other interesting places in the Empordà: Pedro will tell you, as he is sort of the 21st century spirit of Josep Pla,

I'd also appreciate some wine suggestions eg the perfect Spanish white for fish, grilled meat etc.

Do not miss either el Celler de Can Roca, ask Josep Roca to serve you a whole menu, paired with the convenient wines (and remind him to let you taste some fino or manzanilla sherries in it!: those are almost the only perfect spanish whites, )

Have a nice stay!

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Thanks Jesus. Could you please tell me a bit more about Can Bonay? I checked the site, but it is in Catalan. Which brings me to my next question... is language going to be a problem outside of Barcelona? I don't speak either Catalan or Spanish.. just very rusty French.

[pedro]

Welcome to the eG Forums, Corinna. Let me bring to your attention some posts that may be relevant for you:

• Short post on Bonay
  Bonay's cuisine is Empordà's cuisine: powerful, rustic dishes with that imaginative twist that you can find in this regional cooking as with its fondness for mar i muntanya, dishes that combine products coming from the country and the sea.
  
• On snails
  I used some quotes from Josep Pla when I started this thread, which probably was what caused Jesus Barquin to make that reference to me and Pla. Quite flattering, but unfortunately for me, quite unlikely. Anyway, I mentioned there a handful of restaurants which I absolutely recommend even if you're not going to taste the snails. Something that I absolutely don't recommend.
  
• Recs in Girona
  Some more restaurants around Girona appear in this thread.
  

Regarding the linguistic issue, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Catalonia is a tourisy region and hardly you'll find yourself in a situation which you can't handle with English, rusty French and gestures.

[Corinna Dunne]

Thanks Pedro. Great threads. Will report back on my return.

[Corinna Dunne]

Also excellent were the egullet recommended Rafa’s in Roses, La Xicra in Palafrugell and Hostal la Granota near Sils. I can also heartily recommend the star worthy and probably up and coming El-Roser 2 in L’escala.

I have read eGullet reviews on Rafa, could you please give me a little more detail on La Xiera, Hostel la Granota and El-Roser 2? And thanks for this great post on Can Roca.

[Meanderer]

Near Montserrat you might want to try Can Casot. It is off the small road heading west from the monastery down a long winding lane towards Marganell. I don't know if I would describe it as rustic, but it appeared to be filled with locals and had a number of Catalan specialities. I believe we ordered the house red wine and it was just about the inkiest wine I've ever seen, but it wasn't bad.

[Pranian man]

Struggling to remember now, it was so long ago. Hostal la Granota is a solid choice. It's the most rustic of the three, by some margin, with bare stone walls and floors and has a ridiculously cheap set meal, for lunch times at any rate. You could conceivably miss this one if short of time, but it would be a worthwhile stop on your journey. La Xicra is, as opposed to La Granota, neo-rustic and filled with well-upholstered furniture and tasteful poster art. The food is similarly a step up from la Granota, but more traditional Catalan than nouveau. I recall duck with summer truffles and sliced potatoes as a main course and a mint sorbet for desert. El-Roser 2 is another step up again and is a solidly white table cloth affair. We sat in the annex part which is essentially a greenhouse with a view across the bay at L'Escala. On a less windy day I think this edifice could be deconstructed to provide a more authentic en terraza type of dining experience. Here I recall an entrada of very generous portions of foie-gras and scallops, both seared and crispy on the outside and similarly delightfully jelly-like on the inside. With both my favourites over in a single course, this meant I could have a main course of something involving neither scallops or foie-gras for a change! I chose a superb casserole of lobster, clam and espardenyes with a red-wine and (lots of) garlic type of sauce. This would be my pick of the three, but one will pay accordingly.

[nathanm]

I'm leaving tomorrow. Eating at El Bulli, Can Fabes, and Can Roca.... Thanks for all the help

[docsconz]

Don't forget to report back! Buen appetito!

[pedro]

Good choices, no doubt about it. If you have any spots left, give it a try to a more traditional restaurant. Perhaps it'll give you some insight about where Santamaría, the Roca and Adrià brothers are coming from. Hispania, near Barcelona can be a wonderful experience to get you into the realms of traditional Catalonian fare.

[pim]

Hispania, near Barcelona can be a wonderful experience to get you into the realms of traditional Catalonian fare.

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I would also add Gaig in that group, despite the decidedly modern design of the dining room.

[pim]

Got some photos from Gaig on my Flickr.

[nhconner]

My wife and I (30 and 32) will be taking a much needed vacation from the tots in September that is inspired by an El Bulli reservation in the middle of the week. We should be flying into Barcelona on Sunday morning and leaving on Saturday or Sunday, 6-7 nights. I figure we will stay in Barcelona the Sunday, Monday? we get there. This leaves four-five nights. My wife's preference is to stay in one or two places total to relax and soak in the sense of place. Checking in and out is stressful to her an ruins her trip, I am sympathetic to this and am beginning to change my new place every day routine.

Will this be possible? Should I break the trip up into Roses and somewhere else. I want to eat at El Cellar de Can Rocca if it works out. This trip is all about food and culture in that order. Lying on a beach all day with holidayers is not a desire. We also plan to rent a car so we can make day trips from our destination, however I dont want to drive on the El Bulli or Rocca nights. Taxi? Hired car?

Because I figure a few on this board will be doing similar trips, I though I would get the ball rolling.

Best direct flights US to Barcelona? Train vs. Car. Hotels. Dining in the area seems to be covered in other threads, but how do you get a reservation at Rafas? What can I say I love the planning stage, and have no idea where to start besides my gut. I am posting on this board becuse all is going to revolve around restaurant and food decisions and I am open to any.

Thanks,

Nate Conner

cant seem to edit my subject. Catalunya, thanks.

Edited January 7, 2006 by nhconner (log)

[nimzo]

My personal fave when dining at Bulli is a stay at Mas Pau just outside Figueres. Great local food by an ex-Bulli chef but far more traditional, a longish taxi ride but which only serves to heighten the appetite and the best thing is that it is off the beaten track and away from the coast, a positive for me anyway.

I have been criticized a lot when recommending this before with " How can you recommend somewhere which only has 1 Michelin star" but I stick with it and make it an annual visit. Check out their website.

[docsconz]

I can't speak to Mas Pau, but the Almadraba Park Hotel in Roses made an excellent base of operations for us last September. Don't worry about making reservations at Rafa's well in advance, because it will all depend on the catch he has available anyway.

Delta has a direct flight from NY that isn't too bad. Your best bet if you don't wish to stay stationary is to rent a car. There is plenty to see, do and eat in the region. If you haven't already done so I would suggest a perusal of this forum for a lot of excellent advice on dining and staying in Catalunya.

[molto e]

I second Almadraba Park Hotel in Roses, right on the ocean-beautiful. We rented a car to go from Barcelona to Roses and the drive is easy. We took a taxi from the hotel to El Bulli and it was $25 or $30 dollars, but even though the taxi takes 20-30 minutes to pick you up do not call to order it until you are done with you meal. I say this because if the cab comes and you are not done with your meal it will cut down on the courses that they will send you.

Have A Nice Trip,

Molto E

p.s. check out Docsconz Rafa's thread if you have not