Wine served in water tumblers

[Ruby]

It kind of annoys me that I've seen a recent trend in restaurants where wine is served in small glasses more suitable for morning orange juice. What's up with this? I'm not talking about comfort food type restos - these are places that charge ฮ+ for standard wine.

I thought this was quaint when served a house wine in tumblers in the South of France in a mom and pop cafe but this is New York and the prices and vibe are way different.

When the owner of one particular restaurant came over to our table and asked me how we enjoyed our meal, I told him the food was good but he should ditch the water glasses. I said "If you can charge ำ for a bottle of wine, you can provide decent wine glasses." He didn't respond and I haven't been back. Next, they'll be serving Champagne in those plastic glasses used for picnics!

Would be interested in comments and your take on the 'logic' of this.

[Fat Guy]

I've never found it the least bit charming to be served wine in an inappropriate glass, regardless of the setting. Even a very humble wine is greatly enhanced by proper stemware and serving temperature. It is not necessary for every restaurant to have Riedel or even Spiegelau (though it's so cheap now that every restaurant with a wine list can probably afford it), but at the very least a decent-sized Paris goblet or tulip glass should be available (and clean). I don't even like Alsatian wine served in those green-stemmed glasses they use in Alsace. Who the heck decided those were a good idea? Those wines taste much better in real white wine glasses, or even better in the fluted shape made by the Riedel and Spiegelau folks.

[A Balic]

Quote: from Fat Guy on 6:49 am on Nov. 15, 2001. I don't even like Alsatian wine served in those green-stemmed glasses they use in Alsace. Who the heck decided those were a good idea?

Which type of green-stemmed glasses? The short fat ones or the tall, unbalanced goblet types. The only good thing about them is how interesting they look en masse, when they leave all the empty glasses on the table if you are buying by the glass in a winstubb. Adds a touch of "My, haven't I had a good time".  I hate those Anjou type glasses as well.

To get back to the original point, I really hate wine served in a "now we are in the South-of-France" tumbler. There is nothing worse then trying to drink an aromatic white from one of those things. It is on of he main reasons why I will not go to some restaurants. Still, it fits in well with the "dumbing down" theme that is the current vogue.

[Andy Lynes]

One of the pleasure of dining out is that the stemware, cutlery and crockery is going to be better than I have at home.

I agree with with Steven that even the most run of the mill wine can taste so much better in a fine glass. Isn't it one of the reasons you pay the ludicrous restaurant mark ups on wine for all the trimmings now that cover charges have generally become unfashionable?

[Wilfrid]

Yes, can't be doing with coloured glasses.  I will confess, though, that I have some chunky tumblers at home and sometimes - when I feel the food, occasion and indeed wine are appropriate - I will pretend to be in a rustic auberge.  Out of the question, of course, if you want to enjoy the aroma of the wine; okay if you are drinking a vin de table to wash down something hearty.

But I would love to know which restaurant is trying this on in Manhattan.  I can't see any reason to be coy about naming them - they are surely proud of their policy, no?

[Hank]

One restaurant that uses the tumblers is Tabla. (A favorite of ours.) I have complained to management about them a few times but to no avail. More than once when trying to swirl the wine I have spilled some. It is impossible to get the aroma of the wines with these glasses. I am sure that Danny Meyer can afford decent stemware and next time I run into him at one of his restaurants I will certainly complain to him directly.

[Fat Guy]

I've complained about it to Danny Meyer as well, and he's told me they're going to do away with those glasses -- but I'm still waiting for it to happen.

They're not exactly tumblers. They're wine-glass shaped but they have no stems. I hate them anyway, though.

I should note, however, that Tabla makes normal wine glasses available upon request.

[tommy]

Quote: from Hank on 10:00 pm on Nov. 15, 2001

One restaurant that uses the tumblers is Tabla. (A favorite of ours.) I have complained to management about them a few times but to no avail

i think tabla finally conceded.  the last time is was there, about 2 months ago, they had "regular" stemwear.  i kinda liked the old ones though.  less of a chance for the bottom of the glass to get caught under the rim of a plate during the mad rush of the glass to my lips. but yes, swirling, which is half the fun, was problematic.

[yvonne johnson]

Those tumblers really bugged me at Tabla (not that I liked the food upstairs much anyway, tho' my other half was at the Bread Bar yesterday for lunch and he reported the food was very good).

Another place that uses tumblers is Pastis. And again, even tho' they are going for the brassserie feel, the glasses bug me.

[tonguesandwich]

I've never found it the least bit charming to be served wine in an inappropriate glass, regardless of the setting. Even a very humble wine is greatly enhanced by proper stemware and serving temperature.

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This brings up a wine glassware newbie question i have... been looking at the Riedel "O" series stemless glasses (maybe that's what your describing at Tabla?)... i understand how the shape of the bowl can enhance the experience, but I thought the whole idea behind stems was to maintain the wine's serving temperature while drinking, no?

Edited November 10, 2004 by tonguesandwich (log)

[Really Nice!]

It kind of annoys me that I've seen a recent trend in restaurants where wine is served in small glasses more suitable for morning orange juice.

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They've been serving it this way in Italy for centuries. But then sometimes the ambiance adds more to the wine than we give credit for.

[wkl]

[

This brings up a wine glassware newbie question i have... been looking at the Riedel "O" series stemless glasses (maybe that's what your describing at Tabla?)... i understand how the shape of the bowl can enhance the experience, but I thought the whole idea behind stems was to maintain the wine's serving temperature while drinking, no?

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[NVNVGirl]

I detest drinking wine out of those glasses....and it really irks me when any place sets a juice glass in front of me with wine in it. I've grown up with Italians all my life, and it's mildly annoying at home, but when I go out, I want an appropriate glass. The other glasses that drive me crazy are the "red wine glasses" that are bowl shaped and you have to be careful that you don't inhale the liquid thats' in the glass while you're attempting to take a sip....it's like drinking out of a fishbowl or something. I always return the wine and ask for it in a white wine glass if they dont' have anything else.