Love's Leamington Spa

[DDarwood]

October 2004

Love’s Labours have not been Lost! Steve Love’s recent victory at the National Chef the Year competition has confirmed his potential as a creative culinary talent. With judges like Jean Christophe Novelli and John Burton Race, who awarded him first place in the best main course and overall winner categories, it is an award not to be taken lightly. With the roll call of previous winners including David Everitt-Matthias, Mark Sargeant and Gordon Ramsay, the future augurs well for Steve. That it is has been bestowed upon such a modest, unassuming and relatively low profile chef, has given Steve’s supporters even more cause for celebration. This former Roux Scholar, who trained under Alain Ducasse in Paris and who worked in the kitchens of the Michelin starred Cliveden and Mallory Court before opening his own eponymous restaurant in Leamington Spa, is surely destined for even higher awards. Named as the Warwickshire Restaurant of the Year in the 2005 Good Food Guide, it can only be hoped that AA and Michelin will also fully recognise his talent.

Steve’s cooking is light, inventive, flavoursome and exquisitely presented. The special evening when he recreated his winning menu displayed his skills to the full. The wines which perfectly complemented each course were chosen by Claire, his wife and most welcoming front of house.

The amuse bouche of cauliflower veloute was smooth and well seasoned but not too rich – a perfect prelude to the luxuries to come

The Lobster ravioli comprised a delicate, intense mousse, soft fresh pasta and a contrasting sweetness given by the sautéed langoustine. The accompanying celery broth was enhanced by shredded leeks which gave another flavour and texture.

Star of the show was a breast of squab pigeon and a ballontine of its leg.

Pigeon is a notoriously difficult bird to cook, many efforts being too rare or too tough. However, Steve’s dish was perfectly rendered, with the meat having time to relax, giving a full flavour without the liver-like taste and texture of wood pigeon. Braised lentils and pumpkin puree were appropriate earthy garnishes, whilst the sauce of veal stock and pigeon jus was well balanced, not overwhelming in its sweetness or lip smack qualities.

The dessert was Careme like in its architectural construction: a mousse of white chocolate and raspberry – a marriage made in heaven – encased in a white chocolate cylinder, balancing a white chocolate tuile and a banana and whisky ice cream. Such richness was nevertheless light and meltingly delicious.

It was gratifying to see a full restaurant, with the special dinner being extended for two evenings and fully booked. Given the tasteful refurbishment, the national success and their recent marriage, Steve and Claire deserve wider recognition. Love’s is a destination restaurant, and only now are the prosperous residents of Leamington coming to appreciate this culinary gem. Deserving of at least one Michelin star and three AA rosettes, let us hope the promotion comes sooner rather than later.

Edited November 1, 2004 by DDarwood (log)

[Suzi Edwards]

Thanks for this report, I'll definitly try this place next time I'm back at home in Coventry. As there is nowhere in Coventry we tend to go to Leamington Spa. Are you from round there? My brother had suggested we try Solo or Oscars but both were closed for Sunday lunch. We end up at Raffles in Kenilworth which was a meal of such unspeakable horribleness I couldn't even bring myself to post about it.

[tony h]

back at home in Coventry.

←

and i always figured you were an essex slapper, ah well

[Suzi Edwards]

isn't it funny how people's internet personas can be so misleading? i'd had you pegged as the debonaire gentleman type.

[Gary Marshall]

very good review by jan moir in saturday's telegraph.

sounds like just the sort of place i'd like and she got across very well the idea of a comitted chef/patron operation that i tend to go for.

cheers

gary

[Suzi Edwards]

Here's a link to Jan Moir's review

[DDarwood]

apologies for the plug, an interview with Steve can be found here

He talks aout the Roux Scholarship and time spent in Alain Ducasse with other such as Claude Bosi as well as the National Chef of the Year competition.