DDarwood

apologies for the plug, an interview with Steve can be found here He talks aout the Roux Scholarship and time spent in Alain Ducasse with other such as Claude Bosi as well as the National Chef of the Year competition.

October 2004 Love’s Labours have not been Lost! Steve Love’s recent victory at the National Chef the Year competition has confirmed his potential as a creative culinary talent. With judges like Jean Christophe Novelli and John Burton Race, who awarded him first place in the best main course and overall winner categories, it is an award not to be taken lightly. With the roll call of previous winners including David Everitt-Matthias, Mark Sargeant and Gordon Ramsay, the future augurs well for Steve. That it is has been bestowed upon such a modest, unassuming and relatively low profile chef, has given Steve’s supporters even more cause for celebration. This former Roux Scholar, who trained under Alain Ducasse in Paris and who worked in the kitchens of the Michelin starred Cliveden and Mallory Court before opening his own eponymous restaurant in Leamington Spa, is surely destined for even higher awards. Named as the Warwickshire Restaurant of the Year in the 2005 Good Food Guide, it can only be hoped that AA and Michelin will also fully recognise his talent. Steve’s cooking is light, inventive, flavoursome and exquisitely presented. The special evening when he recreated his winning menu displayed his skills to the full. The wines which perfectly complemented each course were chosen by Claire, his wife and most welcoming front of house. The amuse bouche of cauliflower veloute was smooth and well seasoned but not too rich – a perfect prelude to the luxuries to come The Lobster ravioli comprised a delicate, intense mousse, soft fresh pasta and a contrasting sweetness given by the sautéed langoustine. The accompanying celery broth was enhanced by shredded leeks which gave another flavour and texture. Star of the show was a breast of squab pigeon and a ballontine of its leg. Pigeon is a notoriously difficult bird to cook, many efforts being too rare or too tough. However, Steve’s dish was perfectly rendered, with the meat having time to relax, giving a full flavour without the liver-like taste and texture of wood pigeon. Braised lentils and pumpkin puree were appropriate earthy garnishes, whilst the sauce of veal stock and pigeon jus was well balanced, not overwhelming in its sweetness or lip smack qualities. The dessert was Careme like in its architectural construction: a mousse of white chocolate and raspberry – a marriage made in heaven – encased in a white chocolate cylinder, balancing a white chocolate tuile and a banana and whisky ice cream. Such richness was nevertheless light and meltingly delicious. It was gratifying to see a full restaurant, with the special dinner being extended for two evenings and fully booked. Given the tasteful refurbishment, the national success and their recent marriage, Steve and Claire deserve wider recognition. Love’s is a destination restaurant, and only now are the prosperous residents of Leamington coming to appreciate this culinary gem. Deserving of at least one Michelin star and three AA rosettes, let us hope the promotion comes sooner rather than later.

Yes, but if you hire a big brigade and keep them in the kitchen for 10 or more hours a day, you've got to keep them busy doing something haven't you. ← What delights and amazes me about the Tom Aitken's dishes is how understated they are. Yes, they must be labour intensive, but I would suggest that each component contributes a significiant taste and/or texture which enhances the main ingredient. Consider for instance a set lunch starter - 25 October, 2004 - simply billed as "boudin of pheasant and lentils with truffle and Sauternes foam." This only begins to describe the finished product, which also included a madeira jelly topping the two rounds of boudin and foam, making them look look like giant toadstools. Around the plate were thin slices of smoked duck covering smearings of duck parfait, whilst the watercress and herb garnish added contrasting flavours and textures. The whole dish was visually stunning, brilliant in conception and, most importantly, delicious to eat, the essential earthiness of the boudin, fragance of the truffle and lightness of the foam being complemented by the other elements. Haven't we forgotten the element of surprise when going out to eat?

OCTOBER 2004 My first of six visits to Champignon Sauvage was for Saturday lunch, shortly after the restaurant gained its second Michelin Star. The dining room was relatively empty except for me and two elderly local hoteliers chatting to Helen Everitt-Matthias. Their conversation moved onto the quality of local restaurants and hotels and went something like this: Couple: Have you heard of Michelin? H. E-M : Yes……. Couple: Would you like a Michelin Star? (Pause) H. E-M: Well,actually we have two (modestly) Couple: Really?........... (embarrassed silence) I had to chuckle at the couple’s faux pas and Helen Everritt-Matthias’ phlegmatic response. In many ways things have not changed: the residents of Cheltenham and its environs must still be relatively unaware – or insufficiently appreciative - of this gastronomic jewel in their midst, otherwise it would be packed out every night, as is the case with equally rated establishments in the south east; and Helen Everitt-Matthias remains as charming, courteous, tactful and modest as ever. Indeed, lack of ostentation is the hallmark of Champignon Sauvage. Its façade blends in with the rest of the terrace of shops, restaurants and pubs on Suffolk Road so much that it is easy to miss the front entrance altogether. The lounge is the size of a sitting room, whilst the restaurant itself has only 28 covers. An eclectic but not flamboyant choice of paintings decorates its walls, and the tables, chairs and place settings offer only modest comfort and luxury. Prices continue to represent excellent value for money, whether it is the set lunch, the weekday set dinner, or indeed the Carte, given its luxury ingredients and masterful cooking. Nor does the chef visit the diners at the end of service to receive applause: David Everitt-Matthias, a previous winner of the National Chef of the Year, is highly skilled but low profile. What has changed and what is bold is the confident development of the menu. This is based on the scrupulous sourcing of the freshest ingredients – Shetland Scallops, Gloucester Old Spot pig, local (Winchcombe) venison - and an imagination limited only by a judicious sense of which combinations actually work. Consider for instance the amuse bouche of game veloute with liquorice. Instead of two strong flavours counter-acting each other, the soft earthiness of the game is cut by the distinctive taste of the herb. Throughout, the cooking is complex and multi-layered, true to the French classics but with innovation enhancing the finished combination. The generous starter of seared foie gras came with fried pancetta, gizzards, Maury syrup and balsamic dressed salad. This is a robust dish, not for the feint hearted. The same is true of a lasagne of oxtail and sweetbreads, where the light horseradish foam balanced the richness of the meat and offal. Hand dived scallops - plump, rich and perfectly timed - were balanced by pea and onion purees of exquisite smoothness. Main courses include saddle of venison, with the texture of beef and meltingly tender. The sauerkraut which accompanied it was mercifully free from excessive acidity that can mask any dish. Pork belly and pig’s cheek which proved rich and unctuous, and not overwhelmed by the five spice seasoning. French and English cheeses were in prime condition, as were home made biscuits which accompanied them. Crackling sugar in the pre dessert of geranium scented cream tickled our aural sensations. Fortunately, we were not offered headphones to enhance this experience! Desserts are as rich as the other courses, albeit simpler in their presentation. Roast pineapple and molasses, with pineapple and angelica sorbet; proved a successful combination of sweet and hot, light and cold. All the incidentals, including the crusty strong flour white rolls and petits fours are first rate. Wines, whether per glass or bottle, are excellent value for money. With only three in the kitchen, and despite its limited space and unremarkable location the restaurant nevertheless goes from strength to strength. The sous chef (Sam) has recently been runner up in the Young Chef of the Year competition, an accolade which speaks volumes for the experience he has gained under David Everitt- Matthias.

Here are some highlights from the interview we did last week with Chris:- Full interview and piccies on www.thymusgland.net/Chef/ChrisStaines.html You seem to like combinations that include Offal? A fascination for me is taking traditional second cuts and making them something a bit exciting and tasty. I’ve heard St John is doing really interesting things with ingredients like tripe which takes some doing. What was your background prior to Foliage? I was at The Oak room for 2 ½ years with Robert Reid, Chez Nico on Park Lane with Nico Ladenis, Lucknam Park in Bath prior to that. My first job was working in Wales for Sir Bernard Ashley in a country house hotel called Llangoed Hall. What do you think are the main differences between large hotels and an independent restaurant? Pluses and minuses – a big plus is the security of being in a big company, opening a stand alone restaurant is very tough, for every restaurant that opens, a year is the life expectancy. Two in every ten will see out their first year, these are frightening statistics! The back up of the financial resources of the hotel group is great and we’re effectively treated as a stand alone restaurant – they really do let us get on with it – working here has given me a lot of scope. Which chefs have inspired you the most? Difficult to say, when you love your work and are passionate, you take so much from all those around you all the time. I found Robert Reid a massive influence at the Oak Room. He's an extremely talented chef who taught me a great deal about flavours, cooking process and how to treat ingredients. And certainly since I’ve been here David Nicholls has taught me a lot about management style. Probably 30 years ago chefs were just chefs in the kitchen but today they are rightly considered managers who need the necessary skills. How do you get the best out of your brigade? Choosing the right staff is key to getting the best out of people, if you have people who want to better themselves then they develop naturally. We have also changed the working day to enable the chefs to get 3 days off a week, so they’re not doing 90 hours a week and they stay fresh. Leading by example is important, I try to be first to arrive and first to leave but generally if people are dedicated to bettering themselves you can’t go far wrong. As a result I have two fantastic sous chefs who I trust without question. This in turn enables me to stay fresh. When I’m recruiting I’ll typically ask someone to come in for a service or a day and you can glean a lot about them in that period. Once they get the job we train and build them up slowly. The brigade is close and friendly which encourages a quiet and comfortable atmosphere, people do not feel intimated. Have you any thoughts on Molecular Cooking? The two people who are good at it do it extremely well. Heston is a really really clever guy – I’ve eaten there (Fat Duck) a few times; fascinating and challenging, really brilliant. What concerns me is that people will try and emulate it, Heston has done so much research and has used a team of scientists, trying to copy it or mix and match is very dangerous. It does have a place in catering but if you’re going to do it then you need to deliver wholeheartedly. I hear good things about Anthony’s in Leeds, where the chef worked at El Bulli. On the other hand I’ve heard horror stories about people who’ve eaten at places and found them poor copies that haven’t pulled it off. Which chefs cooking today in England do you admire? Tom Aikens without a doubt is doing brilliantly; the restaurant is stunning, he’s been away for three years and wham he’s back. He’s really trying to make the food different and original; when you look at his dishes there’s so much work that goes into it, it’s incredible. Shane Osborn at Pied a Terre is very talented. I hear Morgan M is very good but I’ve not had time to get there yet. Does any chef inspire you in France? Pierre Gagniere is the best meal I’ve had in France, that was a couple of years ago, his understanding of flavours was quite stunning. How do you delegate a taste? Very difficult, I find that trust comes through training the staff and developing their knowledge. It helps to always explain why, you can’t just show them how I do it or you get a 100 different results – when working on a dish I explain why you caramalise it, why you roast it, why it’s roasted for so long, why you cook it so slowly, why you don’t season it until it’s nearly cooked or why you season it before it’s cooked. The team have to have that level of understanding or I would have to be here every time.

ROUSSILLON - restaurant review July 2004 Set in a residential district in Pimlico, Roussillon reflects this domesticity in its size, décor and service. The dining room, incorporating a large bow fronted window, has a homely feel, being not too large to generate excessive noise, not too small to feel intimidating. The décor is not the latest chic as is the case in many restaurants of this standing, but the greeting is friendly and welcoming. It was possible to have a serious extended conversation with the sommelier who demonstrated extensive professional knowledge and a most charming manner. By the end of the evening, one felt almost at home, ready to retire to bed. Alexis Gauthier’s cooking, however, could hardly be described as domestic. It is the product of a professional kitchen, restaurant food of the finest quality, using the freshest of ingredients which are treated with love and care. Nor is the wine list typical of the home cellar. Indeed, the sommelier’s choice of wines by the glass to accompany the “Taste of Summer” seven course degustation menu was inspired, mixing south west French vintages – as one would expect from the restaurant’s name - with those from the New World. The starter of summer vegetables, cooked and raw, needed more than the light ginger dressing to give it a lift. My colleague, who substituted a truffle risotto from the carte, did much better. Warm Scottish lobster salad with summer leaves, and warm girolles was more on the mark: the crustacean retained its al dente sweetness and succulence, whilst the coral dressing added balance and a delicate flavour. Grilled sea bass was equally generous in its accompaniments – more girolles, lettuce, pancetta and chicken jus – which added an earthy feel to the whole dish. The minted fillet of Welsh lamb was cooked to a perfect pink, with a meltingly delicate texture. The courgette, fennel and meat jus lifted the whole dish, being an integral part rather than mere garnish. The Shiraz “Reiver” 2001, Mitolo Estate, Barossa Valley, Australia was a perfect match for this dish. French cheeses, in perfect condition, came with three wines to match their strength and texture: Pineau des Charente with Rocamadour; Champagne Jacquesson Brut rose with Chaource; and Ratafia de la Champagne Gosset with Munster and Epoisses. Puddings included classic raspberry millefeuille and warm apricot soufflé, both executed to perfection. Overall, the whole meal was perfectly balanced in terms of tastes, textures and temperatures. One felt happily satisfied rather than bloated at the end. Incidentals such as the amuse bouches, bread, coffee and petits fours were all of a high order, demonstrating the attention to detail given to all products of the kitchen. Roussillon has many of the characteristics of a neighbourhood restaurant: its setting, unpretentious appeal, and regular clientele – including the local gentry who were dining on the same night as ourselves. However, it is much more than this and deserves the attention of a wider audience. On the other hand, too many admirers would detract from its essential charm and tranquillity, a key part of its character. Perhaps the residents of this part of London are right in keeping this little gem to themselves.

Having eaten over twenty times at Foliage since it opened, at all times of the year, lunch and dinner, and under three different managers and two chefs, I can state categorically that each visit has been excellent both in terms of food and service. I do not ask for specific tables, or reservations on the quarter hour, and would be grateful if they prepared my food again if I went to the loo. If they attempted to take away my plate before I had finished, I would ask them not to do so. And if I wanted to wait for a friend before starting to eat, I would ask then to keep my plate warm. All this seems eminently reasonable; to base a large part of a review on dissatisfaction over these issues - as Jay Rayner does - even if they preoccupied his thinking at the table, does a large dis-service to the restaurant and reflects badlly on the reviewer's priorities. That he expects better service "at these prices" begs the question of how expensive Foliage is. In fact, its set lunch is London's outstanding bargain and its dinner, whilst more expensive, is excellent value for money compared with its London competitors in the one and two Michelin star category. Gordon Debus, Matthew Thomas and Paul Noll have been excellent restaurant managers, whilst Hywel Jones and Chris Staines have been chefs of outstanding creativity and integrity. Foliage remains in my opinion the best hotel restaurant in the capital.