One Day in Philly

[Carrot Top]

One day in Philly. A Sunday. Coming in from the airport and leaving the next day on another flight.

What would you want to see and where would you want to eat if you were me?

(I did read the Best Eats listing...but would like to hear more from your own personal recommendations!)

Not really interested at the moment in the Haute Cuisine thing...but any other ideas would be appreciated!

[Jason Perlow]

Pats or Genos. No, both.

Our own Holly Moore's site is indispensable for this sort of thing:

http://www.hollyeats.com/Philadelphia.htm

Pat's of course is the original, but there are other places on Holly's list cheesesteak wise that he rates better. And as far as cheesesteaks and cheap easts go, I trust Holly implicitly.

[Holly Moore]

Karen,

Give me a feel for you mobility and the geography you want to cover.

Alas, Sunday means no Reading Terminal Market, no Tony Lukes, No Dellessandro's.

Cheesesteak wise - My favorite, Steve's, is in the Northeast, miles from the airport. Geno's and Pat's are much closer, and diagonally across the street from each ohter. Of the two, Geno's probably builds a better steak, Pat's adds more South Philly attitude. Either is good. Both and a comparison is better. If you end up in the historic district, Campo's on lower Market is great too.

But there is one thing you must do. Start with breakfast of brunch at Carman's Country Kitchen. There is no place like it anywhere. You can call for reservations the day you will be there, not earlier. And be on time, or you'll lose your reservation and have to wait. But it is the place to hit for breakfast. She's open on Monday too, so if you get in too late for Sunday, stop by on Monday. No reservation worries then.

The Italian Market - 9th Street pretty much between Washington and Christian - is an easy walk from Carman's. You'll go right be Pat's and Gino's, so it'll be easy to find later. There's also George's in the Market, famous for its pork and its tripe sandwiches among others. I might pick George's over Pat's and Gino's unless I had my heart set on Cheesesteaks. Lot's of neat shops in the Italian Market to check out and maybe load up some goodies for the trip home.

Keeping in the area, there's some three great Mexican choices for dinner. Sunday Taqueria La Veracruzana does barbecued lamb. La Veracruzana, Plaza Garabaldi and La Lupe have all been my favorite at one time or another.

Or, for fun and historic Italian, Ralph's, just north of the Italian Market on 9th. I think Ralph's is the oldest or second oldest continually owned Italian Restaurant in the country.

If you're still hungry or looking for other choices, let us know. Plenty of good eating hereabouts.

Edit: Oh yeah, for a great Philadelphia hoagie and open on Sunday, Sarcone's Deli at 9th and Fitzwater (don't confuse with Sarcone's Bakery in the middle of the block).

Edited October 3, 2004 by Holly Moore (log)

[Jason Perlow]

Here is the eGullet thread on Carman's (click)

[KatieLoeb]

Karen:

Do PM if you need a tour guide. Which Sunday are you coming in? We have a Pizza Club outing planned for Sunday 10/16 out in the hinterlands of the suburbs. I'm certain we could arrange a ride for you if you wanted to join us.

I think if you only have a limited number of meals in the City of Brotherly love, you shouldn't waste one on cheesesteak, but that's just me. If I had to have a sandwich I'd go for Roast Pork or a Hoagie. Chinatown is always a good bet for almost any regional Chinese cuisine or some good Vietnamese or Burmese. Or as Holly mentioned, any of the down-n-dirty authentic Taquerias that now populate South Philadelphia if you fancy Mexican food. Carman's for breakfast is a capital suggestion. If you fancy a great wine bar to have some flights of wine, there's Panorama at the Penn's View Inn. 120 wines available by the glass. My favorite grown up bar in the city.

BYOB dining is a specialty in Philadelphia, so there's plenty of choices for a nice dinner and bringing one's own wine. There are a couple of the State stores open on Sunday too - you just have to know which ones. I love Dmitri's for BYOB and Sunday nights usually aren't as long a wait (they don't take reservations), or possibly Django (if you're blessed enough to get a reservation) or Lolita for BYOT (great upscale Mexican food and they sell delicious pitchers of Margarita fixin's so you bring your own tequila). BYOB Italian can be had all over South Philly. My faves include L'Angolo and Buon Appetito. I'm cetain folk will chime in for other suggestions.

Philadelphia Magazine has a searchable Restaurant Database that might be helpful, or you can check out last years winners of 2003 Best of Philly awards, as many of those places are perennial favorites. Unfortunately they haven't updated the website to include the 2004 winners yet.

There was a recent article in the Inquirer with suggestions for places to take out of town guests. I posted about it HERE. That article may prove quite helpful.

Have fun while you're here and enjoy the good eats! Thee's lots of them.

[MarketStEl]

Katie: 10/16 is a Saturday.

As for hoagies, I will recommend a place around the corner from me that I've gone on about before on these boards: Planet Hoagie (1211 Walnut). They took Best Hoagie honors in this year's Philadelphia magazine awards. The unusual feature of this shop is that their meats and cheeses are every bit the equal of their bread, which ain't Sarcone's but is almost as good. (Their supplier is Hatfield Quality Meats, which is rather unusual, even though the company is local to the Philly region. Most of the better sandwich shops in Philly use Dietz and Watson, though Primo Hoagies uses Thumann's.)

In Center City, the Wine & Spirits SuperStore at 1228 Chestnut is open from noon to 5 on Sundays and has a far better wine selection than most State Stores.

If you want to check out the Italian Market merchants on a Sunday, head down there early in the morning; most close by 2 p.m.

Decent inexpensive fare? Try More Than Just Ice Cream, on the street floor of my apartment building (1229 Locust). It's a neighborhood institution--and their ice cream isn't bad either.

[MysticMilt]

I think everyone else has you covered for food, so I'm going to throw in my recommendation for the "what to do" part of your question. Both Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell are obvious choices, but in my opinion those two terrific sites have been eclipsed by the incredible National Constitution Center, which just opened last year.

Derek and I went with a friend in September, and let me tell you: I was completely blown away. This is not your average museum, kids. The visit started with a presentation that gave an overview of the history and impact of the Constitution, and it wasn't just some cheesy slide and re-enactment deal. It was presented in a theater-in-the-round format, and narrated by a really good actor (or at least our show was). The script was incredibly moving, and by the end of it I saw more than a few people quickly brushing away tears.

Anyway, after that we all exited at the top of the theater, which put us in the big loop that makes up the bulk of the Constitution center. I cannot even begin to tell you how rich that experience was -- there was so much to see and learn about the Constitution that it would take hours to read it all. And it was presented in an engaging, dynamic manner, rather than your standard display case/written explanation format. For example, one of the first things that catches the eye after exiting the theater is a giant cone-shaped sculpture that is peppered with video screens, each of which is cycling through a series of historical portraits. At people-height at the base of the cone, the screens are interactive and you can learn about scores of individuals, both famous and obscure, who are important to the history of the constitution.

Really and truly: I went thinking this was going to be another vaguely interesting American history museum, and I came away from the experience so proud of my country and of this awesome document that was written by rebels and shaped a nation. It is, hands-down, my favorite Philadelphia landmark. It should not be missed!

Edited October 4, 2004 by MysticMilt (log)

[Carrot Top]

Wow. More to Philly than one would a thunk, huh?

Really, it seems like a three day thing to me, but will have to make do with a day this time.

Holly, I am as mobile as a taxicab and my feet will take me.

Katie...I would love to have a city tour with you but this trip is actually falling right after Christmas...a time when things are so busy of course. But will take you up on it another time!

Milt, that is a fantastic idea for 'something to do'. Thanks!

MarketStEl...great idea for ice cream. There is always room for ice cream, isn't there...

Jason, thanks for that great thread on Carmans.

Why am I setting my itinerary so early? Just allowing lots of time for the best laid plans to go awry, you know....

OK here's the scoop so far: Arrive Sunday mid-morning, find hotel in town (will do ahead through Travelocity or something)...

Quickly! On to the Italian Market for a tripe sandwich at Georges. Why tripe? It is so macho.

A little wandering around or else on to the National Constitution Center.

Panorama for dinner because I don't eat much and the choice of 120 wines by the glass sounds staggering. The meal will consist of an apertif wine with a light snack, a nice full bodied wine with another light snack and then if I am still standing (that depends on how full they pour the glasses, actually) a dessert wine.

Back to the hotel to sleep till Carmans, which sounds...operatic in many ways.

I hate setting expectations of a place, so will just say I really look forward to it...

Quick! Run over to the Italian Market again and get a cheesesteak or maybe a caseful packed on ice (one for the plane ride to Rome and the rest to sell to the Italians when I get there, to finance the trip...) and that... will be it!

For this trip, anyway.

Thanks again, everyone. I am looking forward to Philly more than I anticipated...

[KatieLoeb]

Karen:

The Penn's View Hotel wouldn't be a horrible place to stay either. And you could crawl upstairs from Il Bar at Panorama to your room. Check out the website and you can see the menu for Panorama and Il Bar and see some of the flights of wine that are offered. Not sure how up to date the website is kept, but sommelier Bill Eccleston is brilliant, and will always have a selection that could please even the fussiest wine lover. One of my very very favorite things to do is to sit at Il Bar, order an appetizer portion of one of their amazing pasta dishes (the tagliatelle with Lamb Ragout they had last autumn/winter was perfect) and a glass of big red Italian to go with. A real treat. Civilized and soothing for the soul.

Sadly, not much of the Italian Market is open on Sundays, so I don't know if you'll be able to have your desired tripe sandwich. I'd check the hours at George's before you disappoint yourself by going over there for nothing. Certainly there's a multitude of other things you could eat on Sunday.

If you're in Philadelphia and crave cold dessert, go to Capogiro for gelato. More Than Just Ice Cream is great (I love the cinderblock sized slices of their mile high deep dish apple pie a la mode with vanilla ice cream) but Capogiro is about as close to Italy as you'll get in the States. Perhaps you could do a comparison for us and report back since you'll be on your way.

Have a blast and do let us know how we can help.

[Holly Moore]

Karen,

Sounds like a plan to me.

One suggested revision.

After cheesesteaks at both Pats and Gino's, hop a cab to Campo's and pack along hoagies instead of cheesesteaks. (The two hoagie places in the Italian Market, Chickies and Sarcone's Deli are both closed on Monday.)

I always seem to pack a hoagie or two. I end up not eating them on the plane and typically have a few bites when, thanks to jet lag, I wake up in the niddle of my first night there. The rest I've ended up eating on a train, most recently one between Prague and Budapest and one between London and Sheffield.

Wow. More to Philly than one would a thunk, huh?

Thanks again, everyone. I am looking forward to Philly more than I anticipated... 

Get with it Karen Philadelphia has been a top dining destination since the Restaurant Renaisance of the late 70's, and has become even more so with the opening of a bunch of extraordinay BYO's over the past couple of years. Even W.C. Fields' ghost dines here regularly.

[mrbigjas]

Sadly, not much of the Italian Market is open on Sundays, so I don't know if you'll be able to have your desired tripe sandwich.  I'd check the hours at George's before you disappoint yourself by going over there for nothing.  Certainly there's a multitude of other things you could eat on Sunday.

this isn't really true anymore in my experience. giordano's is closed, and several other places, but george's was open all summer (i didn't look this weekend when i was down there), and a bunch of the other places are too. sarcone's (bakery and cafe), dibruno's (regular and pronto), claudio's (but not the mozzarella part), fante's, anastasi, the spice corner, anthony's coffee, gleaner cafe, esposito's, cannulli's, cappuccio's, orlando's, several fish places--not to mention the mexican and vietnamese places that are open all the time. it's quieter than saturday, sure, but still worth a visit if you ask me.

[stephenc]

The four main touristy areas of the city are:

Old city: Constitution center, Independence mall, Liberty bell, Betsy Ross House

Franklin Parkway: Natural History museum, Franklin Institute, Art Museum

Rittenhouse: High end shopping and lounging around the square.

South Street: Shopping, eats, tattoos

Get a cheesesteak, why not. Try out a BYOB too. They're all small, and quitessentially Philly (meaning affordable)

[Carrot Top]

Hey, hey Holly...if it weren't for the unchurched like me, there would be no one out there to preach to, sweetie! Yet here I am, awaiting conversion....

Yes. I will confess my sins.

Yea, as an ex-New Yorker I confess to the sin of having the idea that the earth as we know it drops off into an unknown netherland after the geographic boundaries of Manhattan and certain sharply delineated outer neighborhoods end....

Yea, and verily to the greater sin of believing in haute cuisine...no, that's not what I meant...I meant haute couture. Haute something, anyway. Fashion that pisses people off if they don't wear it themselves, is what I mean.

Yea, I am a rude ex-NewYorker...but that is what the rest of the world expects of us so I must fulfill my obligation.

I await conversion to many good things in my trip to Philly. Baptise me with either cheesesteak or hoagie...I am sure my religious experience will be a wonder.

Hey, P.S. didn't you guys used to make beer there? Nobody said anything about any breweries, micro or other....

[Rich Pawlak]

While you're galavanting around the city post-Xmas, stop into McGillin's Old Ale House 1310 Drury Lane, the oldest continually operated tavern in the city (1860), second oldest in the country to that dirty dive, McSorley's, in NYC. Once inside, grab a beer from local breweries like Yards (their ESA) or Victory (their Hop Devil, Fest and Storm King positively rock), or NJ's Flying Fish (especially if their Porter or Grand Cru are on tap) , almost always on tap at McGillin's. To really dive into the local beer scene, I would also recommend a stop into the Nodding Head brewpub, 1535 Sansom St, to drink from one of only two actual brewpubs in the city limits.very good stuff there, especially the Grog, a nice brown ale.

[Carrot Top]

Sounds like some great places...thanks!

[robyn]

The Philadelphia Museum of Art is world class. And you can jump up and down on the steps like Rocky . Robyn

[KatieLoeb]

The Philadelphia Museum of Art is world class.  And you can jump up and down on the steps like Rocky  .  Robyn

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This is a must do. One of the very best views of the city skyline and downtown area is from the top of the Art Museum staircase, as seen down the "Champ d´Elysee" of Philadelphia, the Benjamin Franklin Parkway. And you can even skip the raw egg protein drink first if you want to.

[Carrot Top]

The Philadelphia Museum of Art is world class.  And you can jump up and down on the steps like Rocky  .  Robyn

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Thank you, robyn.

I try to jump up and down and act like Rocky wherever I go...but since I am a 5'2 redheaded freckled person who smiles a lot, people don't usually make the connection.

Here at least I can do it in the Right Place and get some Cultchuh at the same time.

Really great idea. I had not thought of that museum. It is, as you say, world class.

[Holly Moore]

Thank you, robyn.

I try to jump up and down and act like Rocky wherever I go...but since I am a 5'2 redheaded freckled person who smiles a lot, people don't usually make the connection.

Here at least I can do it in the Right Place and get some Cultchuh at the same time.

Really great idea. I had not thought of that museum. It is, as you say, world class.

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Every "Rocky" runs up the Art Museum Steps. Only the hardcore Rocky's jog 9th Street, stopping by Espositio's Meat Market meat locker to spar with a side of beef.

[rlibkind]

By all means, climb those Art Museum steps, but make sure to stop by another museum, just a few blocks down the Parkway: The Rodin Museum. For years it's been a small, mostly undiscovered gem, but with its recent refurbishment, it won't be for long. It's small, so you can do a quick walkthrough in 20 minutes, though I'd recommend taking your time.

Rodin Museum highlights: the Gates of Hell and the Burghers of Calais, two monumental works. Though I'm partial to the one non-Rodin sculpture in the museum, a parody of Rodin's Monument to Balzac in which the great French writer is portrayed as a seal. (Blubber anyone?) A casting of The Thinker sits astride the parkway in front of the museum.

[Carrot Top]

Every "Rocky" runs up the Art Museum Steps.  Only the hardcore Rocky's jog 9th Street, stopping by Espositio's Meat Market meat locker to spar with a side of beef.

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I'll meet you there, Holly. Please bring your camera for documentation of how I smacked down that side of beef into total submission (let us be sure at first that it is PRIME beef and well-aged at the proper temperature) and a propane grill for steaks afterwards.

[Carrot Top]

By all means, climb those Art Museum steps, but make sure to stop by another museum, just a few blocks down the Parkway: The Rodin Museum. For years it's been a small, mostly undiscovered gem, but with its recent refurbishment, it won't be for long. It's small, so you can do a quick walkthrough in 20 minutes, though I'd recommend taking your time.

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Rodin. In a small museum. I might need to move into the place.

If I go there it will have to be after the Rocky thing...for Rodin makes one soft and melty....

[robyn]

Thank you, robyn.

I try to jump up and down and act like Rocky wherever I go...but since I am a 5'2 redheaded freckled person who smiles a lot, people don't usually make the connection.

Here at least I can do it in the Right Place and get some Cultchuh at the same time.

Really great idea. I had not thought of that museum. It is, as you say, world class.

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And although it's not relevant to your trip (wrong time of year) - for people who might read this thread for trips at other times of the year - the Philadelphia Flower Show is probably the best in the US. There are good air/hotel packages available for that show. I haven't lived in Philadelphia for about 30 years now - but I remember the stuff there that I really loved. Robyn

[KatieLoeb]

And although it's not relevant to your trip (wrong time of year) - for people who might read this thread for trips at other times of the year - the Philadelphia Flower Show is probably the best in the US.  There are good air/hotel packages available for that show.  I haven't lived in Philadelphia for about 30 years now - but I remember the stuff there that I really loved.  Robyn

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The Flower Show is almost always around the first week of March - right around my birthday - and it is spectacular. Definitely a great time to visit Philly if you've never been here and there are all kinds of hotel incentives right around then. Next year it will be March 6-13, 2005. Later in March is Book and the Cook, an annual festival that pairs up cookbook authors and chefs with local restaurants for special dinners. Also an excellent time to visit! Next Book and the Cook will be March 11-20, 2005. Since they overlap next year it's prime time to visit Philly and see the largest indoor horticultural exhibition in the world and then eat well to boot!

[robyn]

The Flower Show is almost always around the first week of March - right around my birthday - and it is spectacular.  Definitely a great time to visit Philly if you've never been here and there are all kinds of hotel incentives right around then.  Next year it will be March 6-13, 2005.  Later in March is Book and the Cook, an annual festival that pairs up cookbook authors and chefs with local restaurants for special dinners.  Also an excellent time to visit!  Next Book and the Cook will be March 11-20, 2005.  Since they overlap next year it's prime time to visit Philly and see the largest indoor horticultural exhibition in the world and then eat well to boot!

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That sounds terrific Katie. Thanks for mentioning it - and I'll make a note of it. When we were younger - we used to go for 2-3 week trips - wherever. Didn't have a care in the world. Now with 3 elderly and 2 sickly parents - we can't go super-far - or stay super-long. Even our 1 week trip to London this spring (for - in part - the Chelsea Flower Show) was touch and go in terms of parental illness. So we're concentrating more on 4-5 day trips where we don't have to get bent out if we have to cancel at the last minute or return home in the middle. Guess that southeast Asia trip I've always wanted to take will have to wait for a while. Robyn