It's All About The Etrogs

[Jason Perlow]

Wanna know more about this cool Citron and what to do with it after Sukkos?

How to Grow Etrogs

http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/citron.html

A great article by a horticulturist on the etrog.

Citron: Horticultural/Factual Data, Purdue U.

http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/citron.html

Historical information and various infomation regarding the Citron.

Cooking with Etrogs

http://www.njjewishnews.com/njjn.com/10903/ltlulav.html

Everything You Wanted to Know about Etrogs

http://members.aol.com/zrsesrog/lulav.htm

Dr David Wiseman sells etrog trees, plus a book which contains 56 pages of etrog information. Plus great links about etrogs.

Esrogim.com

http://www.esrogim.com

The Esrog/Etrog SUPERSITE!!!

[Jason Perlow]

By the way, is there a good reason why Esrogs are so dammned expensive other than the fact they have to be certified for ceremonial use by a rabbi? The Italians use them for culinary purposes, don't they?

You really can't find Esrogs in the States for culinary use, and yet I hear the zest is outrageously sexy. It could be the next haute cuisine thing. I bet if we talk about it enough Marco Canora at Hearth will be making Monkfish Osso Bucco and Risotto Milanese with Esrog Zest and we'll be finding Esrog Curd Tartes at NYC patissiers pretty soon, I guarantee it.

Fresh pasta made with esrog and black pepper.

Duck a la'Esrog.

Such enormous potential, really.

[Jason Perlow]

Etrog Zest Cheesecake:

http://www.jewishfood-list.com/recipes/des...akeetrog01.html

Gateau di Savoja

http://italianfood.about.com/library/rec/nr0459.htm

Sciroppo di Cedro

http://italianfood.about.com/od/aperitifsc...e/r/blr0121.htm

[Daniel Rogov]

A short while ago this evening, Jason asked if I had written anything about the etrog (you say tomato, I say tomahto, some say etrog, others say esrog). Oddly enough, after writing about food,both Jewish and non-Jewish for close to what seems like a zillion years, I have never written a word about an etrog. What can I say....I guess I'm just not an etrog kind of person.

I am, however, definitely a Succoth person and on reflecting about why I have always gained special pleasure from the celebration of Succoth, I have concluded that as opposed to both Rosh ha Shannah and Yom Kippur which have preceded it, Succoth is a "light" holiday. It is not difficult for Succoth to be light, for in addition to celebrating the journey from slavery to freedom as the Hebrews left Egypt, the holiday also coincides with and celebrates the period that was considered the end of the fruit harvest in ancient Israel.

Lightness, as I think of it, is primarily found in the absence of heaviness of the holiday. Compared to the celebration of Rosh ha Shannah or Yom Kippur, for example. the celebration of Succoth is like passing through a decompression chamber and entering a lighter atmosphere. This lightness means reflection without pain and introspection without soul-rendering implications. It mean among other things that during Succoth, unlike the holidays that preceded it, one enters into conversations in which topics are skimmed rather than exhausted. It also means an absence of ponderousness.

It also means that even though Rosh ha Shannah, like Passover, is associated with festive and celebratory dining, the meals of Succoth are easier and less formal. Because Succoth continues to be associated with a mood of thanksgiving and meals continue to be served that are at least a symbolic celebration of the harvest, this also means that while one can dine extraordinarily well, there is no need to leave the table feeling that one has overeaten. And, because no specific dining patterns have developed among Sepharadi or Ashkenazi Jews with regard to Succoth, one can be either as traditional or as inventive as one cares to be.

In a phrase... a fun holiday! Enjoy!

[bloviatrix]

Jason, I think the reason that etrogim are so expensive is that only a percentage of the ones grown actually make it to market as they're supposed to have no blemishes. Other factors are that they are imported and they need to shipped in special packaging so the pitom, stem, isn't damaged.

If you're so inclined, hit the Lower East Side on Wednesday -- you can get a good price on lulav and etrog sets (you can't buy one without the other). Stock up and play with the etrogim.

Finally, Bartenura makes an Etrog Liqueur. You should try it.

[Jason Perlow]

This text and recipe are courtesy of cookbook author and pastry chef Marcy

Goldman, of http://www.BetterBaking.Com. The recipe is from A Treasury of Jewish

Holiday Baking, Broadway Books 2004, Marcy Goldman

******

ETROGS FOR DECOR, ETROG ZEST FOR BAKING

Just before Sukkot, local synagogues arrange for members to obtain both

imported etrogs as well as palm branches, with which to decorate their

sukkots. An etrog is also known as a known as a "citron", which we more

commonly find as a prepared ingredient, in the form of candied citron, a

staple for holiday fruit cakes. Candied citron is found in most supermarket

baking ingredient aisles, along with dried fruits such as raisins and dates,

or candied orange peel.

A fresh etrog looks like an enlarged lemon in shape and colour. Scrape away

a bit of the zest and you'll find a heady citrus bouquet, reminiscent of

lemons and limes, blended together, in a tropical, citrusy perfume. At

Sukkot, the etrog is honored by being presented in a special "etrog box" or

container. These can be the modest wooden box (lined with straw) the etrog

often comes in or as ornate as a silver "egg" with intricate filigree, and a

hinged lid top.

A particularly thick-skinned fruit used primarily as a symbol on the Sukkot

table, the etrog is not particularly juicy nor filled with usable pulp.

However, the outer zest is exceptionally flavorful and plentiful. If you are

ambitious, you can make etrog marmalade from a standard marmalade recipe,

substituting a couple of etrogs for the Seville oranges usually called for.

Etrogs are usually featured solely as an symbolic item and few people think

to bake with them. An appropriate cake for Sukkot that incorporates the zest

of an etrog, is the Sukkot Lemon Lime Cake. Lemons and limes, or etrogs if

you have one to spare for baking (or wish to use it after the holiday),

invoke the flavor, fragrance and feeling of this harvest festival, offering

a pleasant tart sweetness in every bite. If you are saving your etrog for a

Sukkot centrepiece, don't throw it out after the holiday. Remove the zest,

using a zester, and freeze it. Later on, when you have the urge to make a

lemon or lime loaf, or add zing to any tangy cake, you can use the fragrant

zest you have frozen away for rainy day baking. Whatever you do, don't waste

it!

ETROG OR SUKKOT LEMON LIME CAKE

Moist and fragrant, this cake puts the etrog to active use - during Succot

(if you have an extra etrog around to bake with or after, to make use of the

ceremonial fruit) but lemons and lime substitute admirably. You can garnish

the cake plate with citrus or myrtle leaves from a florist, as well as palm

branches, if available. Creaming the zest with the butter and sugar is a

technique that ensures the flavors disperse well.

1/2 cup unsalted butter or unsalted margarine

3/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons etrog or lime zest, finely minced (or lemon/lime combination)

2 eggs

1/4 cup milk

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons lime juice

1/2 teaspoon lime oil or extract

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

LEMON LIME GLAZE

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons lime juice

1/4 cup sugar

*Lime oil is from Boyajian

Generously grease a 8 by 4 inch loaf pan or a 8 inch layer or 8 inch

springform pan.

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Cream the butter, sugar, and zests together until well blended. Stir in

eggs, then vanilla, lemon and lime juice, lime or lemon oil to combine well.

Fold in flour, salt, baking soda, and baking powder to make a smooth batter.

Spoon into prepared pan. Bake until cake tests done, 30-35 minutes.

Let cool well before removing from pan. Using a cake tester, poke holes all

over cake. Drizzle Lemon Lime Glaze on top.

Lemon Lime Glaze: In a small saucepan, heat lemon and lime juice. Stir in

sugar to dissolve. Cool well.

Serves 8-10

[Jason Perlow]

Jason, I think the reason that etrogim are so expensive is that only a percentage of the ones grown actually make it to market as they're supposed to have no blemishes.  Other factors are that they are imported and they need to shipped in special packaging so the pitom, stem, isn't damaged.

If you're so inclined, hit the Lower East Side on Wednesday -- you can get a good price on lulav and etrog sets (you can't buy one without the other).  Stock up and play with the etrogim.

Finally, Bartenura makes an Etrog Liqueur.  You should try it.

←

What I really want to get my hand on are the "Posul" Yanaver Italian esrogim which are unsuitable for ceremonial use on Sukkos but are perfectly good for culinary use. But I don't think those are easy to come by, I think they are probably unobtanium. I think the only guy who has them is Dr. Wiseman in Texas who imports them and sells them thru that AOL site.

[bloviatrix]

In that case you need to befriend a etrog farmer in Italy who'll send you the ugly ones.

For the right price you can have ours after Sukkos.

[Gifted Gourmet]

the "Posul" Yanaver Italian esrogim

sure you can't turn up a few on eBay? .... or is that OiBoy.com ??

[Carrot Top]

'Etrog' and 'oiBoi'...my life is expanding in both ways of intellect and plain falling down laughing after reading this thread.

Have heard of citron...but never heard the word 'etrog' which sounds to the untrained ear like something from Star Wars.

And 'oiBoy'...now I can spend the rest of the day happily imagining what else besides used etrogs would be listed for sale there....

Edited September 26, 2004 by Carrot Top (log)

[Jason Perlow]

So, anyone figured out how to source some good deals on "posul" etrogs?

[Pam R]

Maybe you can call these people up and see if they have any leftover AFTER the holiday. You know, like the way the grocery stores blow-out Passover ingredients after it's over.

Shana Tova!

[Gifted Gourmet]

Re Jason's quest for an etrog: Etrog Cake recipe for after Sukkot a fragrant cake .. after the holiday itself because one actually uses the etrog and the lulav for blessings said in the sukkah and in synagogue ...

[wesza]

Etrog are also used by the Chinese in much more elaborate forms then those regularly used during Sukkot.

I have a Chinese Ivory Screen from 1712 AD that commemorates the Chinese New Year displaying all the New Year Flowers and Fruits.

On one of the 6 panels there is a Beautiful Carved Ivory Etog with a very special shape [by the Chinese].

In Hong Kong and I'm sure thru out China they are available often sold in individual boxes and the more unusual the shape the higher they cost. Those that appear more like fingers are often given to children as presents for them to hold and enjoy the lovely aroma.

When I have more time I will look thru my files to find out more information about them. It wouldn't surprise me if they were introduced by the Jewish Traders who plied the "Spice Routes" into Europe and Asia Minor.

Irwin

[wesza]

Etrog are also used by the Chinese in much more elaborate forms then those regularly used during Sukkot.

I have a Chinese Ivory Screen from 1712 AD that commemorates the Chinese New Year displaying all the New Year Flowers and Fruits.

On one of the 6 panels there is a Beautiful Carved Ivory Etog with a very special shape [by the Chinese].

In Hong Kong and I'm sure thru out China they are available often sold in individual boxes and the more unusual the shape the higher they cost. Those that appear more like fingers are often given to children as presents for them to hold and enjoy the lovely aroma.

When I have more time I will look thru my files to find out more information about them. It wouldn't surprise me if they were introduced by the Jewish Traders who plied the "Spice Routes" into Europe and Asia Minor.

Irwin

←

Just verified about the type of citrus similar to "Etrog" it known as "Finger Citrus" or "Buddhas Hand or Fingers" (citrus medica var. sarcodactylus] considerably more pleasingly aromatic then Etrog.

It is permitted to be substituted for Etrog if unblemished for Jewish Ceremonies.

It's known as "Fu Show" in Chinese, "Bushukon" in Japanese or "Limau Jael" in Malaysian.

The aroma of the citrus is even more pleasing then the Bergemot Orange that's popular for scents. We generally kept then for over a month to enjoy the aroma after Chinese New Year it was especially enjoyable watching how little girls would pretend they were grown up by saying that it was their perfume present for New Years.

Irwin