Wines with food

[Florida Jim]

With sushi:

2000 Nigl, Riesling Goldberg:

This wine’s acids have calmed markedly since release; to the point where it is actually pretty balanced with both fruit sweetness and dryness in harmony; good solid riesling flavors, moderate complexity and intensity; medium finish. Certainly of its place but lacking something in pizzazz (or some such). Good wine but nothing I’d buy again.

With sausages and white beans:

2002 Coudert Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie:

Closing down but still a fine Fleurie with more than enough stuffing to last for years; a bit disjointed and acidic today – not so much as to be unenjoyable but not a showing it will write home about. I think a nice mid-term rest will serve it well. Night, night . . .

With burgers:

1998 Rochioli, Pinot Noir West Block:

Upon opening, lovely, penetrating red raspberry and black raspberry aromatics with some light spice and stone accents, gentle oak hints; medium weight and very pure on the palate with flavors that echo the nose but become more black fruit dominant, the overall impression is of balance but also that this is somewhat closed and rustic (and slightly disjointed), concentrated and intense; medium finish with some drying tannins that reflect the palate’s slightly rustic character. After time in the glass, it devolves into “generic CA pinot-land” and becomes candied and unremarkable save for its concentration and an ever increasing oak signature. Hold for a decade or drink with in the first five minutes of opening. Thanks Larry.

With Caesar salad:

2003 Abbazia di Novacella, Kerner:

An interesting, riesling-esque wine that is somewhat more rustic in texture and has a slight resinous quality; the Alto Adige really has some interesting stuff going on.

With pasta with salmon in cream sauce:

2000 Morrisfarms, Avvoltore:

A blend of 75% sangiovese, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 5% syrah; another wine without character from Tuscany; it is pleasant, not over-oaked, not unbalanced, not over-the-top, not objectionable and completely boring. It may be a great wine in a couple years or it may be exactly what it is now; I just don’t care anymore. Please, somebody, tell me what is being produced in Tuscany that is even worth tasting . . . ?

With assorted cheeses:

1999 J. Drouhin, Clos de Vougeot:

Initially closed on the nose but opens to that wonderful sauvage and blood smell and flavor that is this appellation’s signature; restrained and yet it has a latent power (think Hendrix doing slow blues), balanced, concentrated and still polished despite its rustic leanings; good persistence. A paradox of a wine – and that’s why it is so damn good. Once again this ‘second tier” producer rises above the common perception.

Best, Jim