Michelinias Questions

[cabrales]

I wouldn't complain if it ended in a couple of chops from baby lamb that grazed in sight of Mont St. Michel

Bux, Steve Klc & Steven -- Yes, Bux, the "agneau pre-sale" lamb is intriguing and that is a part of why I am going to Cancale. I'd like to consider how grazing on saltwater marshes and meadows, which would presumably add an element of the sea, affects meat. Also, Roellinger would be an interesting place to sample this lamb because of his use of spices -- how does one maintain the intrinsic flavors of the lamb while still utilizing spices with it?

There is a NYT article (Molly O'Neill, March 3, 1996) that mentions agneau pre-sale:

"Mary and her little lamb are the perfect pastoral. Animal and shepherd wander the grassy knoll without destination or care, a romantic idyll of innocence and freedom . . . . .The delicate herbaceousness of the meat [of young lamb] is like an edible postcard from the animal's hometown. Young lamb from Provence has the scent of rosemary, wild fennel and thyme. From Normandy, the  agneau  de pre-sale  has a *whiff of the sea*. From Colorado, it tastes of clover and faintly of balsam. From Northern California, there's a subtle hint of wild garlic."

Then, I noticed a February 2000 article by John Brunton in the Observer, which provided a number of decent recommendations in addition to the lamb:

http://www.learn.co.uk/glearning/secondary...son05/frbon.htm

"The rarest and most delicious French lamb comes from the North, and is known as agneau pré-salé. These are sheep that are let out to graze at low tide on the salty grasslands that separate Mont St Michel from the mainland. . . . the savage seascapes around Cancale. . . .  Olivier Roellinger . . . creates exotic dishes, such as serving his lamb with *cardamom, sesame* and nigella."

If the lamb is on the menu, I'll order it FOR SURE.  

[cabrales]

Bux--the "petite homard aux saveurs de "l'île aux épices" is a dish I described and is on pp.90-91 of the book.  Interesting that the dish is still on the menu in 1997, don't you think?

The John Dory "retour des Indes" is on pp. 104-105 and is perhaps spiced with the most complex mixture of the book.

The lamb with épices douces "grande caravane" is complex--and in the book is served with quenelles of a cucumber ice, pp. 170-171.

Steve Klc & Bux -- This discussion has spurred me to look at Roellinger's website.  Many of the things you mentioned are still on the sample a la carte menu, at a minimum!

"Petit homard cuit à la commande aux saveurs de "l'île aux épices" (for 2 people, though) (Small lobster with flavors of 'spice island')

"Le classique : Saint Pierre 'retour des Indes'

(hommage au Malouin de La Bourdonnais)." (The classic: John Dory 'return to Indies', an hommage to Malouin of La Bourdonnais)

There's lamb, but no indication of whether it is agneau pre-sale, and also the kouign ammann that Bux first described to me recently:

"Agneau parfaitement identifié et sélectionné : Selle rôtie à la broche, 'épices grande caravane'"  (Lamb perfectly selected: saddle roasted on a skewer, 'grand caravan' spices)

"Un fin kouign-ammann aux poires pour un 'songe de nuit'" (A kouign-ammann with pears as a lullaby)

The most comprehensive prix fixe menu described on the website (called "Image of Saint Malo") includes the lobster and the lamb  

http://maisons-de-bricourt.com/anglais/index.htm

[Steve Klc]

What an impressive website cabrales, thanks for the referral...  and what a bargain--580 or 780FF menus?  I'm curious that so many dishes from the book remain, that I'll be very interested to hear your notes and impressions of the service and plating.

[Bux]

Roellinger would be an interesting place to sample this lamb because of his use of spices -- how does one maintain the intrinsic flavors of the lamb while still utilizing spices with it?

He's not inhibited by the cultures that grow these spices nor indebted to them in any way except for providing the raw materials. Roellinger uses spices in his own way and his food is far more subtle than the list of spices would suggest. From time to time a hint of an eastern cuisine might pop up, but you never get the sense that he's interpreting Asian cuisines nor do you wish he would. I should not go on as memory plays nasty tricks and his success may grow and be magnified by my inability to get back and by a few meals at the hands of other two star chefs in the region. My overall sense is that the spices never dominated.

If the lamb is on the menu, I'll order it FOR SURE.

I take it you understand my tendency to understate when I'm really pleased as in "I wouldn't complain if it ended in a couple of chops from baby lamb ..."

Thanks for the web site. It appears as if Les Rimains shares many things with Richeux including a lawn with tables and chairs and a view of the bay and it's long tidal beach. At Richeux we settled in on the back lawn for aperatifs. I asked for a bière and the waiter suggested Heineken, I made a face was about to ask for a French beer like Fischer, when the astute young woman behind the desk suggested a Schutzenberger from Alsace. I got a Schutzenberger, Jubilator. That was a treat. These days they may have something from one of the new Breton microbreweries on hand. The lawn and the clean simplicity of the place, like much of Brittany reminds me more of New England than France which is not so bad when combined with that terrific food.

Not all of Cacale, or it's food is so wonderful. In season, the area is also overrun with British tourists of all sorts from sophisticated to boorish.

[Fat Guy]

A terrific Web site. And any such site is worthy of celebration and discussion on our media board. Let's congratulate all those with excellent restaurant Web sites and let them know those sites are appreciated by their actual paying customers. Cabrales, when you're there, perhaps you'll specifically mention it to Roellinger. Also ask him if he's Jewish.  :wow:

[cabrales]

A terrific Web site. And any such site is worthy of celebration and discussion on our media board. Let's congratulate all those with excellent restaurant Web sites and let them know those sites are appreciated by their actual paying customers. Cabrales, when you're there, perhaps you'll specifically mention it to Roellinger. Also ask him if he's Jewish.  :wow:

Steven -- I will, but I'd have to admit it will be motivated in part by a desire to get the curry and mussel dish Steve Klc talked about (and I'll use Steve Klc's suggested approach too).

I particularly liked the "discover my landscapes" part of the opening page. The colors -- the shadow of night, the gradations of purple in the daytime sky, the barren tree limbs against expanses of water. . . . There's even a picture later in the slide show of pretty plump-looking lamb (they don't look like young lamb) ??

[Steve Klc]

Cabrales--I made that mussel curry suggestion--and suggested mentioning the book--because of a larger theme that has woven its way through many of our threads--how to receive the best possible dining experience?  My sense is it never hurts to ask--to request things politely--as long as those requests are reasonable.

Many of us have talked about being a "knowing" customer and that a customer or diner has a responsibility and can affect how they are treated--especially in French restaurants.  So in part, I'm curious whether more than a just a passing awareness of a chef's book might influence a meal positively.

[cabrales]

Following the earlier work-induced cancellation of my trip to Cancale, I secured reservations for a table for two for (1) dinner on Saturday, April 20, and (2) lunch on Snday, April 21. I have serious doubts I will be able to get to Cancale, and would be happy to transfer the restaurant reservations to interested members. These reservations are difficult to come by, to my understanding.

Unfortunately, all Roellinger-owned rooms were booked up for the night of Saturday. However, Cancale has a number of less luxurious hotels/motels.  

[PaulaJ]

Well, this thread is so-o-o long that I've long my train of thought! Quel dommage.........

 Have not been to Roellinger's, but [bux] will resist adding

it to my character deformities and simply place it on my must do list.

  Unlike some of you, Meneau's idiosyncratic diningroom...with formally framed paintings hung in front

of sunhouse glass windows... touched my fancy, as did a number of his decorations. His diningroom and mine

are the same colors, so perhaps I am biased.

Chaque a chacun!

Madame is not fluent in English, although solicitious. The

staff is polished and fun. They brought me so very many desserts one night and giggled at my wine induced merri-

ment in exclaiming them. His caramels and macaroons are

to die for!

 We stayed there x3 when he was 3*....but noted a slippage

during visit #3 and shotrly thereafter, he lost a star. I

hope he regains it if he exerts the effort. He is beginning

to move to consulting in St Barth's ,etc.

 Mainly due to language, I did not find Meneau 's L'Esperance

as polished and receptive as Boyer's Les Crayeres. But Meneau's food was quite exciting while Boyer's seemed

studied, refined and controlled.

 I'll do a memory check when I visit Boyer in June.

[cabrales]

PaulaJ --

Unlike some of you, Meneau's idiosyncratic diningroom...with formally framed paintings hung in front

of sunhouse glass windows... touched my fancy, as did a number of his decorations. His diningroom and mine

are the same colors, so perhaps I am biased.

Chaque a chacun!

I like the outside areas of L'Esperance, with the stone statue of a woman with uplifted arms holding a hat, the creek (which was stunning even during the wintertime, my preferred season), and the various trees (powerfully barren when I visited during 4Q 2001). Meneau's vegetable garden was off limits when I visited.

However, for me, the interior of the dining room appeared quite outdated. Its main color schemes are an evergreen green color (green dining rooms are a pet peeve) and gold and white. Yes, to each his or her own.  

My dining experience at Meneau's was only so-so, and the service was mixed. I believe he deserved to lose his third star (although others who deserve to do so still have it). Portions of my L'Esperance experience are set forth in "Argan Oil" under "Cooking", "What are vegetarians missing" (p. 3) under "General", and "Whife Truffles; Woodcock" under "United Kingdom & Ireland".

[cabrales]

I appreciate that Bux has discussed some of the differences between Richeux and Les Rimains lodgings at Roellinger's. Could Bux or other members further provide information on the choice of accomodations?

Have any members dined at La Coquillage (the Roellinger bistro-like restaurant)? Other restaurants in Cancale include, from the Michelin guide, Cancalais, Surcouf (Bib Gourman) and Troquet. I'd appreciate any available input on those facilities as well.

[Bux]

It's difficult to keep track of Roellinger's places and I seem to recall he just opened another place to sleep or is it eat? As I understand it, Bricourt-Richeux is his Relais & Chateau main inn. Maisons de Bricourt is his Relais Gourmand gastronomic restaurant. Oddly enough the gastronomic restaurant is not in the main inn which is out of town while the restaurant is in town. His more bistro like restaurant Coquillage is in Bricourt-Richeux. I have eaten in the main restaurant and not in Coquillage, but breakfast (one of the better breakfasts I've had in France) is in the Coquillage room.

To keep things complicated, Michelin lists les Rimains under the Masisons de Bricourt restaurant although it is at a separate address in town. Bricourt-Richeux is shown as a three roof inn and les Rimains is listed as a two roof spot. The least expensive room in each place is the same price, but the best room at Bricourt-Richeux is considerably more expensive than the best room at les Rimains.

At Roellinger's web site I see they have a couple of shops, one in town and one outside as well as a couple of cottages to rent.

The only personal information I have is that they run a shuttle service from the main hotel to the main restaurant so getting home after dinner is not an issue. We stayed at the main (Bricourt-Richeux) house and loved the place and the grounds. We had the most economical room and loved that too. It was sparsely furnished, but very bright and quite comfortable with a large tiled bathroom. Somehow I think I've noted this before.

[cabrales]

Have any members taken a room at Les Rimains? It has fewer rooms, and is closer to the gastronomic restaurant.

[Bux]

I should add that although we drove to Cancal and had a car, we used the house shuttle service to get back and forth from the hotel to the restaurant. My guess is that les Rimains is fine as well however, especially if only expecting to stay one night. What time of year are you planning on being there?

[cabrales]

I'd appreciate input from members who have visited Coquillages, the Roellinger bistro, or the one-starred restaurant in St Malo called Chalut.