No Michelin Stars necessary.

[Sunday Lunch]

Salutations All!

I am a new member and this is my first post

My wife and I live the slow life in a small village about 40 kms outside of Montreal. We manage to get away for about a month each year. Our idea of a great holiday is small villages, long walks, good local grub and wine, mixing with the locals, and balancing eating in restaurants with shopping at the local markets and preparing our own feasts in our temporary village "home".

We appreciate all food. Even fine dining. Frankly, when push comes to shove, prefer small (family run?) local establishments. No menu or wine list would be just fine. Places where the locals frequent. Places where you can safely put yourself in the hands of the patron with no regrets. Places where the traditional three hour Sunday lunch is a must

This year we are headed to Provence late September to mid October.

First week in Figanieres in Var, last two weeks in Saignon in the Luberon. Staying in a self-catering appartment in both villages using that as our base from which to tour.

I know I've poseda pretty broad request but any restaurant suggestions for a couple of hungry, quirky travellers would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers and many thanks!

[markk]

As I don't see any specific replies (I don't have any either), I can share with you some good starting points and methods of finding such places - at least, these are methods I use for other regions of France that I don't know.

First, do not discout the Michelin guide ever since the new "Bib Gourmand" symbol. These are restaurants below the star quality which serve "great value" meals, but having eaten in dozens of them, I can tell you that the food is almost star-quality (it seems to me that these may be restaurants being watched or considered for their first star) and the prices are not. The're always family run places with great food. Still, they may be just at the top edge of what you're looking for, but it's a good start.

I would compare these place with what you find in the Gault-Millau guide. Generally, the places that get a Bib Gourmand tend to get a 13 or 12 in the G-M. My years of experience dining around France have taught me that a 12 rating is exactly the kind of place that you're looking for - and 12 will represent great, hearty, local eating, if not a fancy setting at all.

The third book that helps put these places in perspective is the Pudlo guide, and I assume that you speak French. As you compare the restaurants in this range from the three books (you'll see that Pudlo has his own system) I think you'll be able to get a feel of the recommended restaraunts in the style you are looking for.

Both the Pudo and the Gault Millau are available from a wonderful source in France called Alapage.com - I order from them all the time, and books arrive to the US in a matter of 5 days, usually without the express shipping. And as I say, with these three guides, I can usually triangulate exactly the kind of non-star place that I want. Bear in mind that the places with the Michelin Bib Gourmand will probably be the top-end of the local places.

You'll want to search for "Pudlo France" and then "Gault-Millau". You'll find the 2004 editions of both at

http://www.alapage.fr

[Sunday Lunch]

Cheers Markk! Thanks so much for the quick response and sound advice. I am familiar with Gault Milau magazine, but will get their Guide, and also Pudo France as you suggest.

Specifically we are considering the following restos for the Sundays we are in Provence:

Le Relais de Templiers- Montfort sur Argens( Var)

Auberge de la Madone- Peillon (perhaps a touch upscale to what I 've stated)- but sounds great)

Le Pistou- Chateau Neuf du Pape ( Accidentally stumbled into this spot 30 years ago on our first trip to France. Still gets good mention in some guides. Probably new owners after all these years. Have to go for old times sake.)

If anyone has any comments or other thoughts, they'll be most welcome..

All the best.

[cigalechanta]

The bistro du Paradou is a set menu. except on Friday, that's also set, BUT, for the grand aioli. But in October, many places are closed. I love Saignon , the Presbytyre is a great place to dine, and the ambiance at The room with a view.

After late September it's difficult. But early on in your trip go to La chassagette, the only recognized organic farm restaurant that serves a set menu ala tapas!

Edited August 16, 2004 by cigalechanta (log)

[Underhill]

A restaurant to which we always return when visiting Provence is Le Feu Follet, in the hilltop (old) town of Mougins. The food is excellent and moderately priced; the abience is very pleasant, especially if you find yourself at one of the patio tables. We've taken our French friends there twice, and they too think it's very good. We especially like standards like the soup with escargots and the house-smoked salmon but are eagerly awaiting this year's menu.

In Nice we're quite fond of a small restaurant toward the top of Vieux Nice called L'Ecrin. There's a splendid salad with wonderfully garlicky croutons and dressing, and sometimes we've eaten at the restaurant when the daily special was our much-loved Farcis Nicóise, small vegetables stuffed with a ground meat and rice mixture and topped with a tomato coulis. Washed down with a glass of Bandol rosé, the meal is one to remember.

Our friends introduced us to a seafood restaurant much favored by the locals, Café de Turin. It features shellfish plateaux but also offers a wide range of local fish, accompanied by a tasty dark bread. Sometimes there are langoustines, and mussels are usually on the menu. The restaurant is near the Nice modern art museum--and a large covered parking lot is half a block away.

[ann]

We didn't get a chance to try Le Mas Tourteron in the tiny village of Les Imberts, very near Gordes, this past May, but it came very highly recommended (04-90-72-00-16).

[cigalechanta]

La Chassagnatte in the Camargue has a tapas like menu and is an organic farm.

Wonderful things(like my favorite) stuffed squash flowers and tomato sorbet.

Edited August 18, 2004 by cigalechanta (log)

[cigalechanta]

Ann, try to go there next time. Elizebeth Bourgeois is consdered one of the top Provençal chefs. Her cookbook is not in English but I have heard it is very good. The dining terrace is charming.

Edited August 18, 2004 by cigalechanta (log)

[Jonathan Day]

A restaurant to which we always return when visiting Provence is Le Feu Follet, in the hilltop (old) town of Mougins. The food is excellent and moderately priced; the abience is very pleasant, especially if you find yourself at one of the patio tables. We've taken our French friends there twice, and they too think it's very good. We especially like standards like the soup with escargots and the house-smoked salmon but are eagerly awaiting this year's menu.

We'll have to visit the Feu Follet again, because several visits there a year or so ago were deeply disappointing. It's one of the older restaurants in Mougins, and Simone Beck, Julia Child's collaborator, was a regular. The Feu Follet turns up in a number of older guides, and even in the current Michelin guide.

Our meals there were, in a word, terrible: overcooked fish, underdeveloped flavours, poor service, mediocre ingredients. But perhaps it's worth another try, because restaurants do change. The Moulin de Mougins, for example, which was struggling a few years ago, has come back to life under a new chef/owner, Alain Llorca. It now offers a good value prix fixe lunch (EUR 58 for champagne, three courses, wine, mineral water, coffee/tea and mignardises). The cooking was precise, the ingredients very good, and the overall experience rewarding.

[TarteTatin]

Our favorite two restaurants are in Gigondas. One right on the town square, and the other up in the hill above Gigondas. Beautiful view and good food in an Inn. Can't remember the name of either.

If you go to Chateau-neuf-du-pape, go to the chocolate factory outside the village called Bernard Castelain. Better than Valrohna chocolate. Try their dark chocolate covered almonds.

Beaumes -de-venise has some good tasting places and a good olive oil/soap shop. Oh, they have a little market too, up on the hill.

In Orange, there's a Bib Gourmand that's inexpensive in the Michelin that's good, family run.

L'Isle Sur Sorgue has a few good restaurants. We ate at Le Vivier de la Sorgue. Right on the canal. And that town is fun to walk through. Antiques market.

For New Year's Eve, we liked Bernard Matthys east of Gordes near Apt. Expensive in an old big house.

L'estellan right outside of Gordes is good on the D2/N100.

Don't forget to go to the small towns of Menerbes, Lacoste, Bonnieux, etc. to walk around. Very pretty villages, Bonnieux has a small market.

Of course, Avignon and Aix and St. Remy have tons of restaurants that we like, ohhhh, try the Cavaillon market on Monday's.

I'm sure there are others I'm forgetting. I might write another post later!

[cigalechanta]

Casting, the one on the hill is Les Florets, with the nice terrace!

[menton1]

Interesting choices of where to stay. The Var is quite nice, and less touristed than the Vaucluse. (Except for St-Trop). The area you are staying in the Var is heavily wooded-- look out for hares (lièvres) hopping out on the roads at night! Also be aware, that just about all restaurants in this area close on Wednesdays-- very strange, but custom here. We stayed at Le Thoronet near your town. (Don't miss the Cistercian Abbey there).

A terrific restaurant in this area is Bastide des Magnans, in the town of Vidauban. A beautifully restores country house, lots of trees all around, and wonderful food as well. Specialties are Wild Boar stew, and Saddle of Lièvre. (Mentioned above). Moderately priced, terrific value.

Bastide des Magnans

Rte de La Garde-Freinet

Vidauban

04 94 99 43 91

When you move to the Vaucluse, drive 15 mins to the gorgeous perched town of Bonnieux, and dine at Le Fournil. About 5 types of lamb always prepared here. A spectacular setting carved out into the rocky hillside. Terrific local wines.

Le Fournil

5, place Carnot

Bonnieux

04 90 75 83 62

You will be close to Draguignan, but it is a large industrial place. The only thing worthwhile here is the great market in the square on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Also in the Vaucluse, drive over to Gordes, one of the most spectacular perched villages in all of France.

Please report to us when you return.

Bon voyage!

[TarteTatin]

Casting, the one on the hill is Les Florets, with the nice terrace!

Yes, we loved it. It was tough to find but recommended to us by Stephane Bertola who runs Mas de la Regalade, a beautiful gite in Les Imberts near Gordes.

This is a gite we highly recommend. Stephane worked for Ducasse in Monte Carlo for 18 years (adminstration) and now he and his charming wife, Rachel (and their son Lorenzo - only 3 yrs old but knows how to serve and taste wine - he doesn't like the taste yet, but swirls the wine, inhales the bouquet and takes a small sip, which he promptly spits out) run this totally gorgeous, classy and comfortable place.

Les Florets was the choice for lunch and as it was Christmas week the dining room was decorated with beautiful santons. The view from the terrace, even in December and despite the chilly wind was exhilirating.

I was the most adventurous of our party of four and had 'pieds et paquets' and was asked by the waiter if I was sure that that was what I wanted!

We drank some very nice Vacqueyras 1998, Domaine La Garrigue.

I have some pictures of the view from Les Florets, but have to figure out how to post them.

[ann]

Casting, the other restaurant in Gigondas is L'Oustalet -- very easy to find since it's right on the town square, with the added advantage of being just a couple of doors from the Gigondas caveau with its good selection of many Gigondas for tasting.

[TarteTatin]

Yes, thank you for the names of both the restaurants in Gigondas!

-- I had the greatest truffle omelet there. Full of big pieces of truffles. I think it is also a cooking school affiliated with someone in Philadelphia (where we are) or NY or something. But we didn't know it when we went....and the tasting room was quite convenient next door! I remember buying there and bringing back a bottle of Marc de Gigondas which lasted a year or more...

[cigalechanta]

I also will agree about Le fournil, a yearly stop because of local interests. La Regalido in Fontveille, Mas de Touteron, in Les Imberts, outside of Gordes,

if I could afford it, i'd go back again to Le Bain Marie, The less expensive, Cafe des Artistes in Avignon. I also had great meals there that were special at Christian Etainne, Hely-Lucullus, La Veille Fontaine ( at thee Hotel L'Europe_

Crillon La Brave in Crillon...,in Isle-sur-sorge, Le jardindu Quai, in Lourmarin ,i Moulin de Lourmarin, In Sugeret, Le Mesclun.

And where I stayed in Villeneuve-lez- Avignon at th Prieuré.

Edited August 21, 2004 by cigalechanta (log)