Your favorite "middlebrow" restaurants

[Pan]

In this thread on New York Times reviewing, slkinsey suggested that "middlebrow" restaurants suffer in the Times from being neither fish (really high-priced, fancy places) nor fowl (really inexpensive places). But the Times isn't the only game in town, so let's take this on. What are your favorite "middlebrow" restaurants? (We needn't hold ourselves to an exact definition of such a fuzzy concept as "middlebrow, but slkinsey suggested "$120 - $150 a couple." I might start that closer to $100 a couple myself.)

Edited July 23, 2004 by Pan (log)

[StInGeR]

Is that with tax and tip Mike??

[Pan]

I was including tax and tip, but that's up to you. As I said, there's no reason we have to have an exact definition of an amorphous concept. Middlebrow is whatever is between "lowbrow" and "highbrow."

[bluekale]

I really like Inside in the West Village. It's between W. 4th and Bleeker, on a small street that runs only that block called Jones St., not to be confused with Great Jones St. several blocks further east. The menu is small, but the food is good and the service and atmosphere is extremely kind, in part due to the large percentage of the clientele who are regulars. The prices, last time I checked, are very reasonable for the quality of the food: 7-9 apps, 6-7 sides, 17-20 entrees, 6 desserts, 6-11 bar menu. Try the sexy grits with forest mushrooms; it's honestly one of the best dishes I've ever had.

[StInGeR]

I was including tax and tip, but that's up to you. As I said, there's no reason we have to have an exact definition of an amorphous concept. Middlebrow is whatever is between "lowbrow" and "highbrow."

Smart Ass!!! I'm going to have to go with an old favourite of mine that being Angelo & Maxies at Park & 19th. I know there are better steakhouses in NYC but I think for the price A&M is a good deal. A couple can walk out of there completely sated with food and drink (inc tax and tip) for about $125.

Cheers

Tom

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=40167&hl=

[MonsieurSatran]

I would consider the Harrison Middlebrow, and I really like that... had a really enjoyable meal there.

[Suzanne F]

I would consider the Harrison Middlebrow, and I really like that... had a really enjoyable meal there.

Would you include other Jimmy Bradley restaurants, such as Mermaid Inn? Once the buzz is gone, of course.

They certainly do offer good food, neither expensive nor cheap-o.

I have to add: Le Zinc, one of my local go-to places. (Les Halles is a go-to too, but only because it's closer. It's nowhere near as good as Le Zinc.)

And may I add an extra question: would you travel (i.e., go beyond walking distance) to get to your preferred middlebrow place(s), or would you only stay in your nabe? Me, I only travel for exceptional food. But then, I'm walking distance to C-town, Tribeca, and Soho.

[slkinsey]

Landmarc

@SQC

Franny's

Bianca

[Pan]

I like Lavagna, which has a classy ambiance, and Il Bagatto, which has a loud, overcrowded ambiance.

Because of price, the unpretentious, comfortable Pylos also belongs here, not in some "$25-and-under" never-never land. Always excellent food!

It's probably no accident that these places are all in my neighborhood.

I also enjoyed @SQC on my one visit there so far, and August was terrific on my first trip! August is pushing "expensive" for me, though.

[emsny]

It's kind of interesting to see how few posts there have been here. For our part, my wife and I go out mainly to low-brow or high-brow places (when we go out at all: we tend to cook for ourselves most of the time). A restaurant such as, I don't know, Le Jardin Bistro is more likely to be a disappointment on one level or another than, say, John's pizza or Jean Georges (to mention only places that begin with J).

[Pan]

After my recent visit to Bianca, it's already one of my favorite places, and I do think it fits as middlebrow, though I'd note it's less expensive than some of the other restaurants mentioned in this thread - which I think is due for a revival and more listings. So please contribute, fellow restaurant-goers.

[Nathan]

Lupa

[phaelon56]

The prices, last time I checked, are very reasonable for the quality of the food: 7-9 apps, 6-7 sides, 17-20 entrees, 6 desserts, 6-11 bar menu.

I really appreciate this sort of price clarification when discussing places that are considered to be "moderate" in price. So often, when people discuss a price per person, there's no clarification as to whether it includes desserts, appetizers, drinks, a glass of wine etc.

That said.... there are places that will cheerfully plate your dinenrs and/or apps and salads for those choosing to share. Last summer I had dinner at Etats Unis on the UES and with such an approach... we had a truly memorable meal at what I consider to be a moderate price. Shared salad ($10), shared entree ($30-$32 IIRC), two glasses of wine, one tonic and an outrageously good chocolate souffle for two (it's only the second time I've ever tried chocolate souffle but it totally blew away the rendition I had at Danube for my birthday a couple years back). I think our total bill was about $100 including tax and tip. Very good value and despite having shared the salad and entree, the portions were such that I could barely finish the souffle (but it was so good I was compelled to do so).

[flinflon28]

I've always had great food at Jane on Houston even though the noise level can approach Grand Central Station levels. I've had dinner for two with wine and tip for $135. I am also feel Blue Ribbon Bakery is a great option.

[mikeyrad]

That said....  there are places that will cheerfully plate your dinenrs and/or apps and salads for those choosing to share.  Last summer I had dinner at Etats Unis on the UES and with such an approach...  we had a truly memorable meal at what I consider to be a moderate price.  Shared salad ($10), shared entree ($30-$32 IIRC), two glasses of wine, one tonic and an outrageously good chocolate souffle for two (it's only the second time I've ever tried chocolate souffle but it totally blew away the rendition I had at Danube for my birthday a couple years back).  I think our total bill was about $100 including tax and tip. Very good value and despite having shared the salad and entree, the portions were such that I could barely finish the souffle (but it was so good I was compelled to do so).

Their date pudding is also AMAZING. I also like their wine bar across the street.

Edited December 1, 2004 by mikeyrad (log)

[phaelon56]

I also like their wine bar across the street.

And the chocolate souffle for two (about $12) is available at the wine bar. It's really, really worth it. Worth mentioning is the fact that although the tables are close to one another and the rom appears to have many hard surfaces, noise was never an issue and it was easy to conduct a conversation. And the service was remarkably friendly and efficient without being overly familiar.

[Dani Mc]

I like Il Covo Dell'Est in the EV because of proximity, and the gnocchi. Wish their tomato sauce had more body to it, but the Pasta and Bean soup is quite good.

[Pan]

I'm glad to see another East Villager here, but my one experience with Covo dell'Est was unsatisfactory. Some time ago, when my brother was in town, the two of us had lunch there. We enjoyed the decor and had good service, but found everything almost inedibly salty.

[Bux]

Lupa

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Lupa would seem to be an ideal example, but I find it exceptionally weird to have to make a reservation two months in advance for a "middlebrow" place. Actually, I find it weird to define "middlebrow" by price. It would seem to me that a middlebrow restaurant would be one in which the food was unchallenging, but not sort of blue collar workman's home cooking. I think there are a lot of middlebrow expensive restaurants.

Working on the price point of $100-125, There's

Balthazar

Pepolino on Sixth Avenue below Canal

Bianca which pleased us at first, but pleased us less and less on successive trips

Landmarc

Tomoe Sushi

and a host of others I haven't been to in years.

[Nathan]

Lupa, to me, is a drop-in and eat at the bar kind of place.....

[Bux]

Lupa, to me, is a drop-in and eat at the bar kind of place.....

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But the tables are usually filled with diners who have reserved a month or two in advance. Is is easy to get a couple of places at the bar on a weekday night? How long have you waited.? I've just tried to call a day or two ahead, or a couple of hours ahead in hope of a cancellation. I ate there the other day by walking in at lunch and got one of the few empty tables.

[coughy]

How about L'Impero?

[Pan]

How about L'Impero?

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Why do you feel that's not highbrow?

[cru]

Just say no to the Jive Ass get rich egomaniac celebrity chefs. Go to Ici and 360 in Brooklyn. The real so called foodies know the score.

[Pan]

Can you please fill us in by elaborating on those places? I recall reading something about Ici on this site (and perhaps in the New York Times?), but I can't remember ever having heard of 360. What style of cuisine, pricing, etc.?