Three days in Austin.

[Verjuice]

A friend and I will be driving from Santa Fe to Austin this weekend (yes, very last minute) and we are determined to eat ourselved into a coma while we're there. I've read through a bunch of posts and we're pretty sure we want to get bbq in Lockhart and eat at Hudson's on the Bend, but we're flexible.

Where should we eat and drink? Any suggestions for not-to-be-missed bbq, light restorative breakfast fare and Tex-Mex?

Where can we get some great coffee?

We also want to find a couple places to enjoy music and beers later on. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

[Scott -- DFW]

Any suggestions for not-to-be-missed bbq

Since you've mentioned Lockhart, it sounds like you're already on the right track. Go there for Black's, Kreuz, and Smitty's (in that order); then, if you have time and stomach space, make the quick drive from Lockhart to the City Market in Luling. All four are in the top echelon of Texas BBQ. And, when you order, play to their strengths. Texas BBQ (at least according to Central Texans) is about beef--particularly brisket and sausage. (I've had good pork ribs at some of those places, but never great ones.)

Also, be aware of the traditionalist attitudes that prevail in the area. Black's is the only one of the above that will provide utensils. The rest (being meat markets that gradually evolved into BBQ restaurants) preserve the tradition of serving meat on butcher paper without utensils. Black's and the City Market at Luling have sauce, but the others don't and will cast hostile glances your way if you say anything about it. There's a twofold reason I suggest going to Black's first: (1) because I think their brisket is consistently better than that of the others and (2) since they have sauce and utensils, you can grab an extra cup of sauce (if you like it) and plastic fork before you proceed to the others.

Enjoy your trip!

Scott

[Jaymes]

RE the BBQ. If you don't have lots of time, and can't get to all three, or down to City Market, I'd suggest that you do Black's and Smitty's. Because of a recent family feud, Smitty's is now in the old building where Kreuz started back in 1900, and the building alone is really something to see. Walk through the whole thing. It's like a temple of Texas 'Cue. You feel like you're walking on hallowed ground, not to mention breathing in hallowed air. It's not to miss. As far as the 'cue itself goes, every Texan has his or her own opinion, but that building is sacred to us all.

Like Scott, I, too, like Black's brisket best, but all these places have wonderful meats. Eat what you can and then get some packed up to take home. Get shoulder clod, pork chops, hot links, etc.

At Smitty's or Kreuz's, you can give it a go eating the way the oldtimers do -- tear the meat apart with your fingers, shake on a little hot sauce (hot sauce and crackers are available) and eat it that way. The real purists think that the sort of heavy barbecue sauces the rest of us are so fond of just overpowers the smoky goodness of the meat, hiding it completely. They prefer the thin, vinegary type of hot sauces (like Tabasco), which they believe enhances the meat, not masks it. Give both styles a try. Regardless as to which you prefer, the first time you do it that way, it is a revelation.

I'd also suggest that you take in one of our traditional old dance halls. In Austin, that's the Broken Spoke. Or you can drive over to Greune.

As for the rest of the music scene, there's always something happening. The music districts are famous and you can just wander along sticking your head in here and there. There are other well-known venues to check out: Stubbs, Antone's, Backyard, and waaaay too many more to mention here. Also, because of the fact that a lot of movies are made here, and a lot of actors have bands, you often can see somebody like Dennis Quaid or Russell Crowe or Kevin Bacon live on stage (not that they're necessarily any good, but there may be a pretty high curiosity factor). The Austin American Statesman and the Chronicle both have good entertainment sections describing who is playing where.

For Mexican food, one thing you can't get anywhere else is the Sunday brunch at Fonda San Miguel. It's interior Mexican food, and it's wonderful. But mainly, it's distinctly Austin. Less distinguished but also very good is Curra's (get the Cochinita Pibil -- the national dish of the Yucatan). There's really good Mexican food all over Texas (both Mexican and TexMex) and that's another thing about which every Texan has a very strong opinion. And, as with barbecue, they're all "right."

Austinites like to go to the Oasis on Lake Travis for the view at sunset, but as will be repeated to you over and over ad infinitum, don't eat there. Get drinks and maybe an appetizer that they can't screw up, like chips and queso, watch the sun set, and then go over to Hudson on the Bend for dinner. But I think watching the sun go down at the Oasis is something everyone that visits Austin should do at least once. As is a trip on one of the "bat boats" that leave the dock on Town Lake (just down from the Hyatt) around twilight every night in the summer.

Something else that is now on the tourist trail is Central Market, our "new concept" grocery store. I like the north location best. They often have classes with guest celebrity chefs so, depending when you're going to be here, you might even sign up for a class one of those nights. Also, Fiesta is interesting (depending on where you live, of course). It's a large grocery store that caters primarily to Hispanics. They have a pretty-good snack bar there when you first walk into the store, but to me anyway, it's fascinating to walk through and see the different variety of things on display.

But whatever you decide to do, this is a great town and you'll have a great time. Gee I love it. Sniff.

Edited June 11, 2004 by Jaymes (log)

[RedQueen]

People are always gritching about Kerbey Lane and Magnolia Café, but I LOVE them both for breakfast. Those Gingerbread Pancakes rock and the Migas ain’t bad either….

Kebey Lane

Magnolia Cafe

[chefrodrigo]

I'll go along with Jaymes. The building that houses Smitty's is a must visit. Get a pork chop at Smitty's and then down to Blacks for brisket.

Blacks has a much smokier brisket than Smitty's but I found no faults at either place just different styles of cooking.

For coffee I like Flipnotics over on Barton Springs just off Lamar. Ruta Maya is also good but I like the patio at Flipnotics.

Also with Jaymes on Fonda San Miguel for brunch. I haven't been there since Roberto Santibanez left but I'm sure its still a fantastic experience.

Rodney

[Verjuice]

Well, three days in Austin turned out to be one day in Austin; it took us forever to drive there and back and we had to make a few adjustments, but we definitely didn't go hungry.

We rolled into Lockhart at 6:00 pm on Saturday and made out first stop at Black's.

The brisket was incredible. We had ribs, too. Left with a bunch of that amazing sauce. We got to Smitty's at 6:35 pm, just as they were shutting the doors for the night. Brokenhearted, we raced to Kreuz. We begged and pleaded for a shred of brisket, but we were minutes too late. A very good man who was just leaving the Kreuz parking lot with a few fragrant wrapped packages in his passenger seat offered us some of his brisket upon seeing our dejected faces as we got back into the car. We declined the offer, he insisted, our tears were dried. Great stuff. Sped over to the Luling City Market to see if we could find any meat there, but they had just closed, too. Such a bummer.

We cheered ourselves up with a wonderful dinner at Hudson's on the Bend and left Austin at the crack of dawn.

I'm still full.

Edited June 16, 2004 by Verjuice (log)