Cocktail Books: The Topic

Nathan · May 2, 2007

that Margarita might work decently enough.

its the Sidecar that would be revolting.

slkinsey · May 2, 2007

Yea, a number of weird things there. What's the deal with lemon-lime juice? Is it her version of "fresh sour mix" once combined in equal parts with simple syrup? (This is, by the way, a good fresh substitute for sour mix should you come across a recipe that calls for it.) Why not use lime juice for the Margarita and lemon juice for the Sidecar? I agree with Nathan that lemon in a Margarita probably wouldn't be a deal-breaker, but lime in a Sidecar? Bleah.

What I don't understand is why she minimizes the role of orange liqueur in those cockails. Orange liqueur is an important part of both. One way to think about these recipes is to combine the triple sec and simple syrup into what would be an ounce and a quarter of low intensity, low alcoholic strength, shitty quality "triple sec." If you think of it that way, the ratios aren't horrible. They're both just a bit sweeter than 2:1:1. THe problem is that they're both missing out on the orange. Do you suppose this is the author's attempt to "focus the drink on the base spirit"?

Nathan · May 2, 2007

I don't understand what the author is thinking.

besides lemon being tolerable in a margarita (sort of)...I think the margarita recipe would work better (I have no intention of trying these to find out) simply because to me orange is more necessary to the sidecar than the margarita (to me the margarita is a tequila forward drink (despite its origins in the sidecar) while brandy/cognac is the underlying foundation for the Sidecar...not the first flavor to hit your tongue....(which is why her recipe makes no methodological sense)

bostonapothecary · May 2, 2007

I don't understand what the author is thinking.
besides lemon being tolerable in a margarita (sort of)...I think the margarita recipe would work better (I have no intention of trying these to find out) simply because to me orange is more necessary to the sidecar than the margarita (to me the margarita is a tequila forward drink (despite its origins in the sidecar) while brandy/cognac is the underlying foundation for the Sidecar...not the first flavor to hit your tongue....(which is why her recipe makes no methodological sense)
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is the book's writer an authority that should be taken seriously or just some yahoo with a book?

i never waste my time with proportions that people propose. they are usually not ideal. when i read those books, i try to focus on the pairing concepts, what you tastee first, second, etc. or how it rolls across your tongue.

also unfortunately too many drinkers like margaritas i would consider badly made.... that is a big problem where i work. i'd like to think i could make many drinks to please even you people..... but the red necks i serve don't get it. they need the cloying and void of flavor or the especially one sided.....

eje · May 2, 2007

There is very little in the book regarding the reasons she makes ingredient choices or her philosophies.

That is why I called it "slim" in the initial review.

She doesn't say why she chooses to use "Lemon-Lime Juice" in all citrus cocktails, just that it is "essential" to many "Hip Sips" cocktails, and freshness is important (though she says it is OK to use high quality, organic, bottled juices.)

Her bio goes as follows:

Lucy Brennan is the owner of Mint and 820, a popular restaurant and adjacent bar in Portland, Oregon, known for her signature drinks. She has been at the forefront of the recent cocktail revolution, incorporating fruit, herbs, and other foods into her unique and delicious cocktails. Bon Appetit touts her as one of the top ten mixologists in the country.

The focus of the book is definitely not the "classics". The "Sentimental Sips" chapter is the last one and only includes 20 cocktails. As a "cocktail classicist," (or "picky bastard,") I have issues with probably 15 out of those 20 recipes, in either ingredients or method.

From what I can tell, she is most well known for things like her "Avocado Daiquiri": 2 oz Silver Rum, 2 oz Gold Rum, 1/4 Avocado, 1/2 oz half-and-half, 1/4 oz Lemon-Lime Juice, 2 oz Simple Syrup, 1 1/2 cups cocktail ice cubes, Pomegranate Syrup for garnish. Blend until smooth.

Is it a boozy cold soup? Alcoholic smoothie? Why is it called a Daiquiri?

KatieLoeb · May 2, 2007

Why is it called a Daiquiri?

Seems the coincidental inclusion of rum, lime and simple make it a "daiquiri".

I'm all for the idea of savory cocktails. I once did a saffron-vanilla martini. But the avocado and pomegranate combo I'm skeptical about. I'd have to taste that to believe it's good.

slkinsey · May 2, 2007

I have to assume she calls it a Daiquiri because it includes rum and is a slushy ice drink (which is what 99% of America thinks a Daiquiri is).

slkinsey · May 2, 2007

FWIW, Lucy Brennan is no slouch. Here is her bio and here is the drink menu from her place in Oregon.

bostonapothecary · May 2, 2007

omg. 2 oz. of simple syrup.... i'm sweet enough....

i wonder if the author reads egullet and can enlighten us to the theory of the recipes.

aligator pears are cool. it might be more fun to make a drink that specifically paired with them in some sort of tapas.... some ingredients are not meant to go in drinks but rather along side them IMO.... salty rich guacamole interacting with a nice "zero dosage" cocktail.... sign me up!

eje · May 2, 2007

FWIW, Lucy Brennan is no slouch. Here is her bio and here is the drink menu from her place in Oregon.
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Taking a quick look at the cocktail menu, it appears most, if not all, are in the book.

The Pomegranate, by the way, is just a drizzled garnish, like they do in coffee shops, not a major flavor component of the Daiquiri.

There's a picture included on the recipe on epicurious:

Avocado Daiquiri

slkinsey · May 2, 2007

omg. 2 oz. of simple syrup.... i'm sweet enough....

That's for two big slushy drinks. Not so much, when you consider that low temperatures inhibit perceptions of sweetness.

bostonapothecary · May 2, 2007

omg. 2 oz. of simple syrup.... i'm sweet enough....
That's for two big slushy drinks. Not so much, when you consider that low temperatures inhibit perceptions of sweetness.
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the list isn't horrible. it is just alot of kitsch.....fake flavors. a billion purees. all toned down for simple audience. there is a couple places like that in boston. the bartenders make serious loot slinging lame stuff. but behind it all are often fairly serious about the stuff they personally drink....

serious bartending doesn't always have the greatest economics. it sucks to try and make intense, beautiful cocktails when you have a service bar that buries you while also trying to serve four course meals....

good looking out on the simple syrup i was worried for a minute....

this is all making me thirsty, punt e mes on the rocks then lunch.....

Chris Amirault · May 30, 2007

Just got Ted Haigh's Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails and Dale DeGroff's The Craft of the Cocktail, both of which seem outstanding. I sought but could not find a copy of David Wondrich's Esquire Drinks for less than a benjamin. Anyone got sources out there?

Kent Wang · May 31, 2007

Is the original (1956) Esquire Drinks completely different from the Wondrich version? The original can be hand for less than $10, is it worth getting at that price?

limewine · May 31, 2007

Is the original (1956) Esquire Drinks completely different from the Wondrich version? The original can be hand for less than $10, is it worth getting at that price?
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Yes, and yes.

Mr. Wondrich refines and updates the Esquire approach to drinks, but the 1956 version is very worthwhile, with more recipes than the more recent version, along with extensive spirits notes and a wonderful style that really evokes its era. A steal at $10, or twice that.

eje · May 31, 2007

Is the original (1956) Esquire Drinks completely different from the Wondrich version? The original can be hand for less than $10, is it worth getting at that price?
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It's a fun book, great 50s style line drawings, and amusing copy.

Includes a section at the back called "365 excuses for a Party".

May 30 is "Decoration Day."

Apropos the discussion in the "Understanding Bewildering US State Liquor Laws" topic, May 31 is the "Anniversary of the Johnstown Flood."

Certainly worth $10 for the calendar alone!

edit - By the way, the slightly more well known Esquire Book is the 1949, "Handbook for Hosts". Unfortunately, I don't have that one yet.

Edited May 31, 2007 by eje (log)

Kent Wang · May 31, 2007

For those wondering, I used AddAll.com to find that Amazon has several copies for around $6-12. AddAll couldn't find any of the Wondrich edition for less than $100 though.

Chris Amirault · June 3, 2007

Found DeGroff's by making a few phone calls to eGulleteer-approved liquor stores. Thanks, all!

While digging around at yard sales yesterday I found Trader Vic's Bartender's Guide for a quarter. It's the 1972 revision of the 1947 original, and it's a hoot. I'm wondering if anyone out there has a bead on some interesting concoctions from there.

mbanu · June 3, 2007

Found DeGroff's by making a few phone calls to eGulleteer-approved liquor stores. Thanks, all!
While digging around at yard sales yesterday I found Trader Vic's Bartender's Guide for a quarter. It's the 1972 revision of the 1947 original, and it's a hoot. I'm wondering if anyone out there has a bead on some interesting concoctions from there.
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The Revised Bartender's Guide is a good one. The one downside is that it relies on commercial mixes for some drinks that would do better without them.

As for suggestions, the Mai Tai for certain. Arawak Cocktail if you like Manhattan-style drinks. Lichee Nut Daiquiri if you like frozen drinks. One of his coffee drinks if you like hot stuff. The Tortuga if you like over-the-top drinks. Trader Vic also did a lot of fun stuff with tequila, surprisingly. Acapulco Gold, Durango, El Diablo, Jayco, and the Sonora Daiquiri are all worth a look at least.

Happy mixing!

Edited June 3, 2007 by mbanu (log)

eje · July 12, 2007

Just finished Jeff "Beachbum" Berry's new book "Sippin' Safari".

Downsides: Too Short. Difficult to find ingredients

Upsides: Colorful stories, great vintage photos, delicious sounding drinks

It's really more of a story of the people behind the bar than about tiki drinks.

It does include about 70 recipes, or so, with plenty of advice in the appendix about appropriate ingredients and substitutions. Some never published before, and many are direct from the "black books" of the great bartenders of that era.

If you have any interest in things tiki, or that drinking culture, I highly recommend it.

mkayahara · July 12, 2007

Just finished Jeff "Beachbum" Berry's new book "Sippin' Safari".
Downsides: Too Short. Difficult to find ingredients
Upsides: Colorful stories, great vintage photos, delicious sounding drinks
It's really more of a story of the people behind the bar than about tiki drinks.
It does include about 70 recipes, or so, with plenty of advice in the appendix about appropriate ingredients and substitutions. Some never published before, and many are direct from the "black books" of the great bartenders of that era.
If you have any interest in things tiki, or that drinking culture, I highly recommend it.
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How does it stack up against his other volumes? I don't have any of his books yet, so if I were to buy just one, which one would be best?

eje · July 12, 2007

How does it stack up against his other volumes? I don't have any of his books yet, so if I were to buy just one, which one would be best?
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The other three are pretty much just lists of recipes with illustrations.

I would get Sippin' Safari to start.

It's a really fun read and it has recipes.

If you find yourself fascinated by Tiki Drinks, go back and get the other three.

eje · June 25, 2008

Mud Puddle Books is releasing a number of out of print classic cocktail books with new introductions by some of the brightest stars in today's cocktail firmament.

My understanding is that if these do well, they will release others. (Crossing fingers for Hugo Ensslin!)

Current releases include:

Barflies and Cocktails, Harry McElhone

Bartender's Manual, Harry Johnson

Recipes of American and Other Iced Drinks, Charlie Paul

The Bartender's Guide, Jerry Thomas

The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks, David A. Embury

The Mixocologist, C.F. Lawlor

The Modern Bartender's Guide, O.H. Byron

In addition, they have a new book from Robert Hess (aka DrinkBoy) called, "The Essential Bartender's Guide".

edit - mis-typed author of "Barflies and Cocktails".

Edited June 25, 2008 by eje (log)

jazzyjeff · June 25, 2008

Mud Puddle Books is releasing a number of out of print classic cocktail books with new introductions by some of the brightest lights in today's cocktail world.
My understanding is that if these do well, they will release others. (Crossing fingers for Hugo Ensslin!)
Current releases include:
Barflies and Cocktails, Harry Craddock
Bartender's Manual, Harry Johnson
Recipes of American and Other Iced Drinks, Charlie Paul
The Bartender's Guide, Jerry Thomas
The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks, David A. Embury
The Mixocologist, C.F. Lawlor
The Modern Bartender's Guide, O.H. Byron
In addition, they have a new book from Robert Hess (aka DrinkBoy) called, "The Essential Bartender's Guide".
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I've been in touch with Greg from Mud Puddle Books recently and am in the process of doing some work together.

Today, I received their re-prints of Barflies & Cocktails, Mixicologist, Modern Bartender's Guide, Harry Johnson & Charlie Paul.

As I own most of the originals of these books, I can confirm that the re-prints are of a very high quality. Also, much cheaper than buying the originals!

The introductions are also very informative and add to the whole experience of the book.

Chris Amirault · June 25, 2008

Wow.... I've been eager to get my hands on one of these for a while, and now I can choose a stack. I'm thinking of starting with Thomas, Craddock, and Embury, then I'll save up another benjamin for round two.

I can't get find any readily available information about the Hess book on the site or at Amazon. Anyone care to share?

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