Carolina Fish Camps

[Fat Guy]

So here I am in our friends' cabin on Lake Wylie, South Carolina. I'm supposed to be working, and I am -- I really am (it is especially important that this be said in the event my agent and editor are lurking) -- but my obsessive instincts can't be contained so Ellen and I have been chatting with all the neighbors about the best places to eat around here.

There were a few promising-sounding recommendations that didn't pan out -- the barbecue in this part of the state (and the adjacent area of North Carolina) is weak, as we learned the hard way, and the local "fine dining" we've tried has been one step above what you'd get at TGI Friday's. But we got a hit this morning that I knew had to be serious: "Fish Camp."

This turned out not to be the name of a restaurant per se, but rather of a phenomenon with Gastonia, NC (a city to the West of Charlotte along I-85) as its epicenter. A fish camp is a warehouse-size fish-fry restaurant where you get immense portions of fried catfish, flounder, and/or perch with hush puppies, coleslaw, and fries.

All indications were that, of the half dozen or so fish camps in and around Gastonia (not to mention a number of pretenders farther afield and nearby), the two reining institutions at this time face one another across the intersection of South New Hope and Union Roads in Gastonia: Graham's Fish Fry and Twin Tops Fish Camp. That sounds as though it's easier to determine than it really is, because locals don't generally seem to know the names of these places. They just say "fish camp" and assume their circle of friends knows what they mean.

Anyway, we sort of determined that "the place on the left" was slightly preferred to "the place on the right" (this assumes a northbound trajectory), though both had supporters and some said they were the same. But the place on the left, Twin Tops, is closed on Mondays so we went to Graham's.

The meal was terrific, especially the fried "salt and pepper" catfish fillets and the fried shrimp. And for $16 two of us ate so much seafood it was insane.

So, on our way out of the parking lot of Graham's, Ellen points to the big road-sign in front of Twin Tops. And do you know what it said in fire-engine red letters:

"Check us out on HollyEats.com"

This is why I hate Holly Moore.

[robyn]

I'm very familiar with "fish camps" (we have lots of them - some are great - some stink - others are in between). Who is Holly Moore (she's never ruined any of my fried shrimp dinners )? Robyn

[slkinsey]

So, on our way out of the parking lot of Graham's, Ellen points to the big road-sign in front of Twin Tops. And do you know what it said in fire-engine red letters:

"Check us out on HollyEats.com"

This is why I hate Holly Moore.

Dude. That is fucking awesome.

[Rachel Perlow]

It's a small world after all.

I just know that tomorrow's (or the day after's) post will be a comparison of Twin Tops v. Grahams.

Had to check it out... Twin Tops Fish Camp on HollyEats.com

Steven, I'm sure Ellen will want the ice cream at Tony's (also in Gastonia), snow or no snow.

[Suzanne F]

Robyn -- don't jump down my throat, but I have to correct you: Holly is not a she. In fact, he is one of our more venerable members. One of the hosts of the Pennsylvania forum, and the sole host of New England (because nobody else would take the job ).

Seriously, if you like REAL American food (and don't care about atmosphere) check out his website: HollyEats

[mrbigjas]

So, on our way out of the parking lot of Graham's, Ellen points to the big road-sign in front of Twin Tops. And do you know what it said in fire-engine red letters:

"Check us out on HollyEats.com"

This is why I hate Holly Moore.

Dude. That is fucking awesome.

Ha! It sure is.

Edited March 2, 2004 by mrbigjas (log)

[robyn]

Robyn -- don't jump down my throat, but I have to correct you: Holly is not a she. In fact, he is one of our more venerable members. One of the hosts of the Pennsylvania forum, and the sole host of New England (because nobody else would take the job  ).

Seriously, if you like REAL American food (and don't care about atmosphere) check out his website: HollyEats

Guess I will have to be careful about divulging my favorite local "cheap eats" . On the other hand - after so many years in the southeast - I am really sick of fried fish places . I will trade NY one ADNY for 10 - make that 20 - fried fish places . Robyn

[Fat Guy]

I just know that tomorrow's (or the day after's) post will be a comparison of Twin Tops v. Grahams.

As you know, I'm capable of some superhuman feats of eating, but I'm not sure it's possible to eat two fish camp meals in a week. It's one of the most excessive dining experiences I can recall. I mean, you can go to buffets all over and eat all you like, but this is high quality expertly fried fish in unlimited quantity, fresh from the fryer brought to you immediately by extremely efficient waitresses -- not from a steam table. Any full order is automatically all-you-can-eat, though I imagine only about 1% of the population could make it to a second plate. I might be able to do it on a dare. Maybe, just maybe, I can work up to Twin Tops for Thursday. But of course we also have various locals saying "oh, those two places on New Hope suck; they're totally commercial and for the tourists; you have to come to the real fish camp with us, where the locals eat . . ." as though there have been any tourists in Gastonia in the past decade besides us and Holly Moore, unless they mean that people from Charlotte are tourists. So, who knows . . .

[KatieLoeb]

Holly is da Man!

[pjs]

"Sandwiches That You Would Like" aired for the upteenth time on my local PBS station tonight and for the upteenth time I watched it. Just to hear and see Holly wax nostalgic on cheesesteaks.

Anyone who once worked at Wetson's can garner my attention.

PJ

[bloviatrix]

I'm sure if you include them in your book they'll put up a sign about you too.

[wesza]

"Holly Moore"

Is the ultimate regional food, that you eat with your hands "Maven".

I've followed his recommendations for years and the only times it's not been 100% was because there was a change in operators since his review.

He doesn't miss a thing from Hot Dogs, Deli, Barbecue all the way to Lobster Rolls.

Holly and the Sterns are my traveling companions when I'm on the Road. I don't think twice about going out of my way, it's like a compulsion that you get rewarded for doing.

Irwin

[SobaAddict70]

It's one of the most excessive dining experiences I can recall. I mean, you can go to buffets all over and eat all you like, but this is high quality expertly fried fish in unlimited quantity, fresh from the fryer brought to you immediately by extremely efficient waitresses -- not from a steam table. Any full order is automatically all-you-can-eat, though I imagine only about 1% of the population could make it to a second plate. I might be able to do it on a dare. Maybe, just maybe, I can work up to Twin Tops for Thursday.

Even more than that annual beef extravaganza in New York whose name escapes me at the moment? You know, the one where all the seatings get sold out as soon as they release the date of the event and where you get served soooooooo much beef, burgers, steaks and beer -- and that's just the appetizer.

Wow. I'm jealous.

Soba

[Varmint]

Tee hee!! The fish camps are popular in various pockets across the Southeast. There used to be a lot of good ones near the coast, but they've lost their atmosphere and quality to some extent. You'll still find decent places, but not many of them are fish camps.

The thing about eating fried seafood is that it stays with you for quite awhile. Even though all that fat may cause a rapid GI purge within 12 hours, you're not ready to re-live the experience for at least 2 or 3 days. So I feel safe that Steve and Ellen will be able to find another fry house soon.

As far as barbecue is concerned, have you tried Bridges Barbecue Lodge in Shelby? It's probably a 40 minute drive for y'all. They still make some good stuff.

[Mayhaw Man]

Even though all that fat may cause a rapid GI purge within 12 hours, you're not ready to re-live the experience for at least 2 or 3 days

Thank you Dr. Varmint for that valuable info.

Next time I am looking for a "rapid GI purge" I will now know just what to do.

[Varmint]

I've never been one to mince words!

[Fat Guy]

Even more than that annual beef extravaganza in New York whose name escapes me at the moment?

The Beacon Beefsteak. No, that's even more excessive because there's so much alcohol involved. But the difference is that it's not fried food -- you can wake up the next morning after the Beefsteak and actually get something accomplished. Fish Camp is far more aggressive from a systemic viewpoint.

[Fat Guy]

As far as barbecue is concerned, have you tried Bridges Barbecue Lodge in Shelby? It's probably a 40 minute drive for y'all. They still make some good stuff.

Probably more like an hour, because it takes us half an hour just to get to where Gastonia hits I-85, but maybe we'll do that for this afternoon's break.

[kpurvis]

So here I am in our friends' cabin on Lake Wylie, South Carolina. There were a few promising-sounding recommendations that didn't pan out -- the barbecue in this part of the state (and the adjacent area of North Carolina) is weak, as we learned the hard way, and the local "fine dining" we've tried has been one step above what you'd get at TGI Friday's.

I'm trying to sit on my hands here.

No! No! Stop, typing fingers! Don't reply to this thread. Don't get sucked into the vortex of another wasted debate on New Yorkers and their Southern stereotypes! Get away from that keyboard before you point out that Steve is at Lake Wylie, not Siberia, surrounded by the mega-bucks mansions of Tega Cay. Don't type in a suggestion that Charlotte, a rapidly growing urban area located less than 30 minutes from his "remote cabin," is a city filled with both the expected traditional Southern restaurants and fine dining and shopping worthy of any city its size, as well as sizable ethnic populations from Hmong to Peruvian.

Stop, fingers! You don't have time to get into this debate. Just tell Steve it's nice that he's found a fish camp, once a traditional and valued part of Southern life but now endangered. Type that you're glad he's enjoying his stay.

[Fat Guy]

Hey at least I didn't say Casco Bay is a fish camp!

I'm not trying to dis Charlotte. I wish I had the mobility, time, and funding to eat at all the best restaurants in Charlotte for however many weeks it would take to do that. How about this: if anybody buys my book, I'll come back here to write the next one and I'll eat at any 20 Charlotte restaurants you pick for me.

[Varmint]

So here I am in our friends' cabin on Lake Wylie, South Carolina. There were a few promising-sounding recommendations that didn't pan out -- the barbecue in this part of the state (and the adjacent area of North Carolina) is weak, as we learned the hard way, and the local "fine dining" we've tried has been one step above what you'd get at TGI Friday's.

I'm trying to sit on my hands here.

No! No! Stop, typing fingers! Don't reply to this thread. Don't get sucked into the vortex of another wasted debate on New Yorkers and their Southern stereotypes! Get away from that keyboard before you point out that Steve is at Lake Wylie, not Siberia, surrounded by the mega-bucks mansions of Tega Cay. Don't type in a suggestion that Charlotte, a rapidly growing urban area located less than 30 minutes from his "remote cabin," is a city filled with both the expected traditional Southern restaurants and fine dining and shopping worthy of any city its size, as well as sizable ethnic populations from Hmong to Peruvian.

Stop, fingers! You don't have time to get into this debate. Just tell Steve it's nice that he's found a fish camp, once a traditional and valued part of Southern life but now endangered. Type that you're glad he's enjoying his stay.

Ah, go ahead, Kathi.

[slkinsey]

(ahem) Get your ass back to work, Shaw!

[Holly Moore]

This is neat.

Just saw Steven's post now and then, this morning, just got an email from someone named Ellen offering to take a pic of the sign for me. I re-read the email now. Sure enough, the Ellen is not just any ol' Ellen, but the Ellen - Mrs. Fat Guy.

One reason to head back to Twin Tops is that a waitress there who worked the original Gastonia Fish Camp - Linebergers - from the start. She is a repository of fish camp lore.

I wasn't in the area long enough, but as Stephen will be there for a while, I'm hoping he'll be researching all six Gastonia Fish Camps. That's why they invented Lipitor.

[JennotJenn]

Even more than that annual beef extravaganza in New York whose name escapes me at the moment?

The Beacon Beefsteak. No, that's even more excessive because there's so much alcohol involved. But the difference is that it's not fried food -- you can wake up the next morning after the Beefsteak and actually get something accomplished. Fish Camp is far more aggressive from a systemic viewpoint.

It really wouldn't take that much longer to head up Lexington way, would it? Hour and a half maybe. Or is it more like 2? Anyway, I feel sorry for you---don't they put mustard or something ungodly in the 'cue down there? You know, there is a little Cambodian grocery in Lexington if that entices you (I live 2 hours away in Blah-leigh and even the promise of fresh galangal and fresh turmeric root is not enough to entice me to go back to my hometown). After hearing my Gastonia cousin call a fried fish restaurant fish camp, we've been saying it ever since, whether it's a true fish camp or not. It's a very satisfying phrase to say.

Doh! Edited to say that I quoted the wrong quote.

Edited March 2, 2004 by JennotJenn (log)

[Holly Moore]

After hearing my Gastonia cousin call a fried fish restaurant fish camp, we've been saying it ever since, whether it's a true fish camp or not. It's a very satisfying phrase to say.

The original Gastonia Fish Camp was just that. A field kitchen by the river where Mr. Lineberger cleaned and cooked up the fish other folks caught. The ultimate entrepreneur. Saw a need. And filled it exceptionally well. And kicked off a local culinary tradition.