Anthony's, Leeds

[ajnicholls]

Have to say that I agree that the desserts ever so slightly let down an otherwise superb restaurant.

The tasting menu when I went consisted of:

Baby squid with hazlenut

White onion risotto with parmesan air and espresso

Roast monkfish with foie gras

Home cured duck with avacado and duck skin

John Dory with chicken skin and cockrel crest

Saddle of lamb with lamb's heart and quinoa

Milk seven ways (ice cream, panna cotta, rice pudding and some other things I can't remember)

Coconut parfait with liquorice and cardamom ice cream

Overall, this is one of the best places I've ever eaten. Had been looking forward to eating there for months and wasn't disappointed. They massively out-performed many of the Michelin starred places I've been. The lamb dish is possibly the best thing I have ever eaten in a restaurant, bar maybe the salmon and liquorice dish at the Fat Duck.

The wine list is unpretentious, well priced and interesting. The beer list idea is great and would highly reccommend the Deus champagne beer.

It really is about time that Michelin recognise what Tony Flinn is doing in what in my opinion is the best place to eat in the North.

[YKL]

Another very enjoyable lunch here on Saturday. Some of the table had the set lunch menu of partridge, suckling pig and lemon thyme infused custard with plum sorbet - generous portions, good flavours and all for £23 - got to be one of the best dining bargains around.

My own choices were the monkfish and foie starter and the ALC suckling pig with scallop and goats cheese ravioli. The monkfish was good - but foie was better, think it had been coated in toasted corn which added textural interest. Someone else had the home cured duck as a starter, (which I think won the presentation prize) and the forkful that I snaffled was very good - although very highly seasoned (which I have noticed more recently). The suckling pig was as good as ever - crackling which shattered and moist meat. Also greatly enjoyed the roasted baby beets with the meat.

Cheese / Desserts all very good - but special commendation goes to the petit fours - from memory - mango jelly (mmmm), chilli chocolate fudge (double mmmm) but favourite was the chocolate and sesame seed ganache (bloody lovely!!)

Impeccable service from Olga as always ... and when chatting to her afterwards, was the first time I learnt of the next step on the Anthony's journey - the opening of a patiserrie shop in the Victoria Quarter in November (?) which will sell desserts, chocolates and possibly some v light lunches (at least according to something on the Yorkshire evening post site). Great to hear of their ongoing expansion, I still love this place and everyone connected with it - and wish them every success with the new place!

Yin

[Stephen W]

Overall, this is one of the best places I've ever eaten. Had been looking forward to eating there for months and wasn't disappointed. They massively out-performed many of the Michelin starred places I've been. It really is about time that Michelin recognise what Tony Flinn is doing in what in my opinion is the best place to eat in the North.

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It might be that the inspectors have been unlucky with their visits - certainly when I visited I was somewhat disappointed with the food - perhaps my expectations had been set too high but nothing I had was outstanding. I've had worse (a lot worse...) in places with a star but to be fair I've had better in places that haven't got a star.

The wine list is unpretentious, well priced and interesting.

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...and when I went most of it seemed to be unavailable as well.

Actually that's an exaggeration, but there were several beers and wines unavailable and it would have enhanced the dining experience if this had been pointed out when the lists were presented (I seemed to get the copy which had not been marked to indicate non-availability), rather than when the orders were taken.

[Gary Marshall]

saw Olga at lunchtime and just realised it's anthony's third birthday this week, how time flies, it only seems like yesterday i was tucking into the jacketless potatoes and upside down guinness, parmesan air risotto and pork belly cannelloni.

mmm jacketless potatoes

[camdan]

I'll hopefully be going here with friends on April 14th. My best friend has built up a sizeable debt to me over the past couple of years and this is how he's paying it off. He suggested Nobu, I said Anthony's, I hope I didn't make a mistake?

[Gary Marshall]

i'm sure you'll be fine,

hit him for the tasting menu and see what comes out.

Whatever you think of the meal it will be interesting, and a change from the proliferation of michelin clones that dominate the fine dining scene.

[RDB]

i'm sure  you'll be fine,

hit him for the tasting menu and see what  comes out.

Whatever you think of the meal it will be interesting, and a change from the proliferation of michelin clones that dominate the fine dining scene.

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..................................where in Leeds and beyond does this proliferation begin

[Gary Marshall]

i'm sure  you'll be fine,

hit him for the tasting menu and see what  comes out.

Whatever you think of the meal it will be interesting, and a change from the proliferation of michelin clones that dominate the fine dining scene.

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..................................where in Leeds and beyond does this proliferation begin

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it's not exactly a leeds phenomenon, as there aint really a fine dining 'scene'

you know what i mean, every box ticked that they think michelin want, different breads, someliers, amuses, overly staffed , veloutes, lobster raviolis, canon of lamb, choc fondants.

they aren't necessarily bad places, i'm just saying that anthonys doesn't fit that mode.

I could mention the now defunct establisment in manchester to that list and probably every country house-esque dinign establishment in the lake district, current example hipping hall where i spent a very pleasant evening, drank remarkably good value wine, ate excellently prepared and served food but it's text book we'd like a star please and whilst i'd recommend it for a 'nice' weekend out i wouldn't drag my foodie mates from darkest london or new york to dine because they can eat that food at countless places whereas i would for an anthony's or a champignon sauvage as they are doing something diferent.

going to juniper on friday i hope to add that to the above list, but however much i like it i doubt i'd send my parents there for dinner.

Edited March 12, 2007 by Gary Marshall (log)

[RDB]

i'm sure  you'll be fine,

hit him for the tasting menu and see what  comes out.

Whatever you think of the meal it will be interesting, and a change from the proliferation of michelin clones that dominate the fine dining scene.

←

..................................where in Leeds and beyond does this proliferation begin

←

it's not exactly a leeds phenomenon, as there aint really a fine dining 'scene'

you know what i mean, every box ticked that they think michelin want, different breads, someliers, amuses, overly staffed , veloutes, lobster raviolis, canon of lamb, choc fondants.

they aren't necessarily bad places, i'm just saying that anthonys doesn't fit that mode.

I could mention the now defunct establisment in manchester to that list and probably every country house-esque dinign establishment in the lake district, current example hipping hall where i spent a very pleasant evening, drank remarkably good value wine, ate excellently prepared and served food but it's text book we'd like a star please and whilst i'd recommend it for a 'nice' weekend out i wouldn't drag my foodie mates from darkest london or new york to dine because they can eat that food at countless places whereas i would for an anthony's or a champignon sauvage as they are doing something diferent.

going to juniper on friday i hope to add that to the above list, but however much i like it i doubt i'd send my parents there for dinner.

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I do know what you mean, I was being silly I hope you enjoy Juniper, was there before christmas and meant to write a review, that reminds me...........

[Gary Marshall]

I'm sat with the menu from a very pleasant lunch at anthony's in front of me, well worth braving the delights of the hoards of millwall & leeds fans in the town centre for the match, however i know i'm not going to be able to do the food justice without photographs, firstly because the presentation was absolutely fantastic and secondly because there was a lot more going on with the plates than the menu descriptions give and i can remember!

A glass of champagne to start in the bar, with olga looking worried for the large plate glass windows as the fans amassed, i thought we'd be having the same menu as i had shared with scott and sam a couple of months ago but hey ho today was the first outing of a new menu so despite dreaming of the roasted sweetbreads and sous-vide pork with sage macaroons, we had a whole new menu of ideas. Tony said afterwards he was trying completely new ideas this time and wasn't repeating any of his tried and trusted ideas/garnish, fair to say neither was looking forward to a full saturday night with a brand new menu to deliver !

Downstairs with a bottle of the old favourite rene mure alsace riesling 2004 (£26?) for company (with the mrs -shock horror!) we had the amuse, a roasted chicken wing skewered through a chunk of watermelon in a warm mayonnaise, interesting combination but not quite a jacketless potato! White onion risotto to follow, a slightly less soupy version this time, just right and mopped up with the bread and 3 butters/oil.

first fish - cured monkfish, bacon cream & toasted hazlenut. A suprising dish, it was served cool and the monkfish was a thin film wrapped around some pomme puree, the standout on the dish though were the (unadvertised) pickled trompettes and slivers of lardo, mmmm.

Pig cheek up next, unctous braised cheek, garlic baby squids, sour cream ice cream. another good dish the ice cream balancing the richness of the cheek.

more fish after, perfectly seared red mullet , a two tone pineapple and tarragon jelly with a crab sandwich. This dish sticks in my mind as being a beautiful plate, the crab sandwich alone two thin crispy squares with the crab was a very delicate highlight.

I think duck would have been on the usual tasting but i'm a veal fan so switched it for sous vide veal, earl grey mousse with vanilla caramel. The veal looked like tongue, although it tasted fine, the visuals of sous vide do nothing for me, though I can see from a kitchen and consistency viewpoint the attraction, give me a bit of caramelisation any day. I didn’t think the earl grey mousse was strong enough but I may be enured to it as I drink gallons of the stuff, the vanilla carmel was another tiny work of art, two discs of translucent caramel with a vanilla centre, like a mini vanilla slice.

We slipped in a cheese course at this point and again the attention to detail shone, not since wintering ham fields giant chariot have I seem cheese presented so well. They now have a list of over 15 cheeses and a selection is made from the descriptions, then the cheese arrives cut or (or poured as appropriate) into inch squares, in strength order accompanied by a personalised list of what you have in front of you, with tasting notes. The accoutrements included cherries, tiny walnut breads, tiny ‘crackers’ and pickles. There was more thought and care in that one course than in many of the meals I’ve had this year. On the cheese front we had mrs Kirk hams, vacherin, drunken goat, golden roemer & quicks extra mature cheddar.

On the wine front we were alternating our Riesling with an 04 giradin santenay gravieres, (£34) at first it seemed a bit young and closed but opened up nicely, as usual the waitress brought the right riedels at the right time and poured the wine perfectly as the courses demanded.

Deserts up next, pear crumble, smoked brie ice cream these were almost beignets, lovely gooey tiny pears with a nice crunch to them, the smoked brie not overpowering, just a good creamy taste.

Final desert was a chocolate mousse and peanut ice cream, I think there was more to this than I can remember but think I got lost at peanut ice cream!

Coffee And P4’s to follow, chocolates are becoming a big deal at anthonys now they have the pattisserie and there was a good selection of six with our coffees, note if you don’t eat them they box them up for you, nice touch (obviously we scoffed ours, we just saw the waiter carefully take the remaining chocs silver service style and put them in a box).

As per , raspberry beers and the discussion of life the universe and everything with tony & olga. Hard to believe they have been there 3 ½ years, and as usual there’s much on the horizon for them. Tony thinks 08 is going to be their year, I think he could be right.

[ernustus]

had lunch today at anthony`s in leeds for the first time

it was very good. chose from the a la carte menu. first arrived a amuse of crispy ham hock with a pumpkin espuma and toasted pumpkin seeds. bread followed - it was good, served with 3 flavoured butters. starter was cured monkfish, bacon cream, toasted hazelnut - very very tasty, did like the bacon cream and the monkfish was so soft and smooth. main course was roast duck breast, chocolate, soya vinaigrette - a very nice and pink duck breast, a smear of chocolate, a deseeded and rolled date, a crispy samosa of the duck wing, all very very tasty. next was a pre-dessert of ginger and pear mousse with a lime foam. my dessert choice was coconut timbale, black sesame seeds, carrot foam. finished with coffee and chocolates, chocolates was very nice and rich. will not hesitate to return.

[fisherman]

Had dinner at Anthonys last week for the first time, can't do a detailed write up, as we had too much booze and I don't have a copy of the tasting menu....

There were no duds as far as I was concerned and highlights were an amuse of beef consomme with smoked haddock, a piece of braised pig cheek and a 'crab sandwich' (all parts of seperate dishes by the way, just realised it could read as if they were all one dish, I better get the Gaggia switched on to sharpen my mind)

Jo didn't like a couple of elements, a chocolate based sauce with the duck (but then she has a spastic aversion to sweet/savoury combos which I''m trying to beat out of her) She also thought elements of a few dishes were superfluous, I didn't agree, but then after a bottle of the Deus Champagne beer I probably wasn't thinking straight.

Anthony can cook, make no mistake. The staff are all warm and friendly, and seemed to enjoy working there. We had a chat with Olga before we went into the restaurant, mainly about Anthonys TV appearance that week.

We'll certainly be back, and I can't believe we left it so long before visiting.

[Gary Marshall]

If you've wondered what all the fuss over Anthony's is about, watch tony flinn on great british menu tonight, bbc2 6.30pm. Can't remember exactly what he said he's cooking but they are ALC dishes so representative of what you'd get in the restaurant. Will be quite a contrast to nigel haworth's dishes that's for sure.

[adey73]

Ah should be very interesting.

Anyone got any insiders yet?

[Scottf]

Lancashire hot pot

[Gary Marshall]

Ah should be very interesting.

Anyone got any insiders yet?

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things catch fire

[YKL]

watching it now .. and it's making me bloody hungry!!

but didn't Tony Flinn cook at this year's Northcote Manor food festival?

[olicollett]

What's going on with the sous-chef's? Anthony's got the same guy Sat had, who won masterchef last year!?

[Bapi]

He is the Sous chef for the series according to olive magazine.

[Gary Marshall]

watching it now .. and it's making me bloody hungry!! 

but didn't Tony Flinn cook at this year's Northcote Manor food festival?

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yes, it's being a bit hammed up for the telly i suspect.

[RedRum]

I saw that program with Antony in GBM. I really did not like his personality, at least as ti came out in the program. I also did not like his food. Olive oil ice cream with white chocolate and olive oil foam?? that mozzarela balloon? with fish?

sorry, but some things just dont work, however pretty you make them look. also having 25 different ingredients is not my cup of tea... I guess there is a reason why it took a few years for him to get that michelin star...

[Andy Lynes]

I guess there is a reason why it took a few years for him to get that michelin star...

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He's still waiting.

[RedRum]

you sure? I thought he did get it this year. But if he did not, I would not be surprised if he is serving dishes like that in his restaurant

[David Naylor]

you sure? I thought he did get it this year. But if he did not, I would not be surprised if he is serving dishes like that in his restaurant

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Dear RedRum,

i am currently reading a very interesting book on the origins of the consumption of horsemeat in France, if you continue with comments like the above i suggest you keep your eye out for Mr. Marshall. You may be included in any subsequent editions of this book.

david

[Gary Marshall]