Digest: San Francisco Chronicle

[Squeat Mungry]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section -- September 8, 2004

Sorry again, folks. Ach, this week!

Olivia Wu continues the Chron's Rent a Grandma series. This time she looks at the preparations for the High Holy Days and Rosh Hashana, profiling three women, only one of whom is a 'real' grandma. Nevertheless, they're not fooling around in their holiday preparations: recipes for Blintzes, Roasted Carrots in Honey, Potato Knishes, Rugalach, and a terrific-sounding Potato Kugel. L'Shana Tova!

Kim Severson looks at Bill Niman, who is looking at Wisconsin to expand his production of quality, cruelty-free and sustainably raised veal, and rescue the product from the bad name it has acquired in recent years.

Niman has sent samples of his prototype meat to restaurants in New York and the Bay Area, including Acme Chophouse, Zuni Cafe, Hayes Street Grill and Chez Panisse, among others. Meat from another 10 animals will arrive in the Bay Area in October. Chefs like Delfina's Craig Stoll are clamoring for it.

Believe it or not, people buy sushi at Safeway -- and Andronico's and Trader Joe's, among other surprising places. Carol Ness and the Tasters explain all.

Hilary R. Ball has a review of Tabla in Larkspur, where chef Kyle Fehr is throwing down with some pretty interesting seasonal stuff from the looks of it, like the Lamb and Pear Tagine for which Ball includes a recipe. Fehr comes to the Bay Area from New Zealand, after eight years in Washington, D.C.

GraceAnn Walden, as usual, has the Inside Scoop on all the latest culinary happenings in the San Francisco area. Just follow the link, since she's so much better at this hot stuff than I am.

As discussed elsethread, the Chronicle Cooking School has a new home in the Ferry Building. Follow the links for more info.

This is kind of a cute idea. I'm all for efforts to preserve and record culinary information and experiences! Kudos to the Chron for this. (For all their faults, you can see why they win prizes!)

Amanda Berne visits Miller's East Coast West Delicatessen on Polk Street. Oy. They're boiled and baked. She says they're bagels.

Cheers,

Squeat

[tanabutler]

I just love that Rent-a-Grandma thing, and I pray to the deities* when I think about certain grandmas teaching kids to cook. My Memaw was fine in the kitchen, but one of my kid-goofs (something I said, in front of a huge family gathering with all the aunts and uncles, making all made the grown-ups roar with laughter) was, "Memaw, can you teach me how to make rice? Yours is so nice and sticky."

Well, yeah, she used broth in it, but it wasn't exactly the thing to say.

I'd rent her in a minute though. The very walls in my grandparents' kitchen smelled good.

It's tempting to write the Chronicle and beg for someone else's grandmother. I want an Italian!

*Let's see...Father/Son/Holy Ghost makes three, right? And I could roll in all the Hindu gods and goddesses, and everything else, to appease everyone but atheists when I say that, I hope

P.S., Squeat, thanks for your attentiveness, bad week or no. I'm rootin' for ya.

[Squeat Mungry]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section -- September 15, 2004

Carol Ness, along with Citizen Cake's Elizabeth Falkner, Farallon's Emily Luchetti and Bay Area baking whiz Carolyn Weil, analyzes Splenda in the Chronicle's test kitchen.

Bottom line: "It just doesn't perform as well, and it doesn't have the taste" or the texture of sugar, says Falkner. And the taste leaves you wanting something more.

No recipes are included because none of the tested pastries met the test-kitchen's standards. They give some tips on adjustments to make if you insist on using the stuff, and compare it to a slew of other sugar substitutes.

Carol Emert looks at the recent shakeup at the James Beard Foundation.

Chez Panisse founder and four-time Beard winner Alice Waters, who was friends with the late James Beard, a writer and cooking teacher considered the dean of American food, says she hopes the foundation's problems will "not taint the image of the awards themselves."

So, presumably, does the Chronicle, which took 3 awards last year.

Marlena Spieler gives an olfactory account of the aromatic meal she had at Paris' L'Arpege, home of the legendary Alain Passard. She gives recipes for Nasturtium Soup and Roasted Endive.

Deborah Kong gives a rundown of Hong Kong-style dessert cafes which are attracting hip young Asian-Americans all over the Bay Area.

The Taster's choose among oatmeal-raisin cookies. Guess what? The winner has no trans-fats, and is organic to boot!

Tara Duggan, the Working Cook, gives both a 'Fast & Fresh' and a 'Now & Later' recipe. The 'Fast & Fresh' is Tuna Fillets With Squash & Tomato Saute and the 'Now & Later' is Calzones With Peppers, Artichokes and 3 Cheeses. Diane Teitelbaum has wine recommendations.

The Cliff House is back and celebrating. The upscale Sutro's opened last week in its brand-new home adjacent to the original 1909 building, which will house the more casual Cliff House Bistro. Let us all hope the food is better in this configuration! All this and more is What's New.

Cheers,

Squeat

[Squeat Mungry]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section -- September 22, 2004

Janet Fletcher profiles two generations of the Dito family, who are recreating their native Calabria in the Oakland Hills.

On several small, east-facing terraces that survived the fire that ravaged the East Bay hills in 1991, Vincenzo nurtures the foundation ingredients of the Calabrian kitchen: San Marzano-style tomatoes (enough to put up 80 quarts a year), zucchini, eggplant, onions, romano beans, long sweet peppers, arugula and basil.

The daughter, Rosetta Constantino is offering two Calabrian cooking classes this fall in Emeryville. (See linked article for details.) Recipes given for Fried Italian Peppers With Anchovies, Spaghetti With Roasted Tomatoes, Marinated Eggplant, Handmade Long Pasta With Braised Pork Rolls, and two kinds of Friselle (a Calabrian specialty bread that looks like giant bagel halves).

Karola Saekel examines that classic, grilled cheese, and its many permutations around the Bay. She mentions the two new books on the subject by Bay Area authors: eGullet's own Marlena Spieler's Grilled Cheese: 50 Recipes to Make You Melt and Laura Werlin's Great Grilled Cheese: 50 Innovative Recipes for Stovetop, Grill and Sandwich Maker. Recipes include Marlena's Grilled Sandwich of Fresh Mozzarella, Prosciutto & Fig Jam and Werlin's Grilled Sandwich of Ricotta & Marmalade With Chocolate Sauce.

Tara Duggan digs up Gypsy peppers at the markets.

Gypsies are one of the first "heirloom" sweet varietals to come onto the late-summer, early-fall pepper scene.

The link gives a list of where to find them in the Bay Area. Recipes for Gypsy Pepper Vinaigrette and Gypsy Peppers Stuffed With Manchego Cheese & Corn Over Greens.

This week the Tasters have at frozen cheese-filled ravioli. The winner: locally-made Genova Delicatessen & Ravioli Factory Ricotta Cheese Ravioli.

At last Limon has new and larger quarters on Valencia near 16th. (I wonder if a walk-in might be possible now?) Jocelyn Bulow (Plouf, Chez Papa, Chez Maman, Baraka) is doing it again, this time on the Embarcadero with brasserie La Suite. What's New.

Karola Saekel recommends several new small books to add to your kitchen library this fall.

Got your moon cakes yet? If not, make your own! Linda Furiya has a recipe. This year's Moon Festival is on September 28th.

Harvest Fest Sunday Supper at the Farmer's Market will benefit CUESA during the Harvest Fest weekend October 15-17. If you can't make the Supper try to get to the Sustainable Happy Hour from 5-8 p.m. Friday, October 15.

Pascal Rigo will helm the as-yet-unnamed restaurant in Chip Conley's new Hotel Vitale when it opens in March at Mission and the Embarcadero. GraceAnn Walden has this and more in the Inside Scoop.

Tonight and tomorrow, Cote Sud will offer a special four-course prix fixe dinner honoring the late Julia Child. 10% of proceeds will benefit the UCSF Children's Hospital kidney transplant program.

Finally, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan tells how to smoke a chipotle, and gives recipes for Grady Spears' Chipotle Meat Loaf and Chipotle Roasted Mushrooms.

Whew! All caught up!

Cheers,

Squeat

Edited September 23, 2004 by Squeat Mungry (log)

[PamelaF]

Digest San Francisco Chronicle Food Section - Wednesday September 29, 2004

The top story, complete with lovely color photos, is From Spain With Love

Photos

The article, by Georgeanne Brennan, talks about the origins of the traditional Spanish dish paella, often prepared with whatever ingredients are at hand. The author encourages you to try cooking your own paella the traditional way, over an open fire.

The primary recipe is:

Paella with Chicken, Fish, Shrimp, Mussels, Clams, Calamari and Chorizo

There are also recipes for accompaniments, such as:

Grilled Toasts with Garlic, Serrano Ham and Oranges

Seville Olives with Lemon and Garlic

Fresh Thyme and Sea Salt Almonds

Twice Cooked Baby Potatoes with Paprika

Grilled Eggplant Rolls

Roast Peaches w/Candied Almonds and Vanilla Ice Cream

(if you love paella also check this eGullet thread)

Also on the front page, is a story about a local high school that provides high quality, kosher, organic and meatless food in the cafeteria. This includes a recipe for Schoog a middle eastern interpretation of pesto.

In The Roving Feast column eGullet’s own Marlena Spieler offers A Passion for Pesto Marlena remembers her first time in Italy. She explains the different traditional uses and variations on pesto and offers a recipe for

Minestrone alla Genovese

What’s New introduces Woodhouse Chocolate in St. Helena and “ChocolateSmarts” which is a chocolate trivia game available at the SFMOMA gift shop. Also, several local pastry chefs that are using olive oil in their desserts.

Taster’s Choice reviews several brands of frozen shelled edamame and finds Sunrich Farms (available at Rainbow grocery) to be the winner by a large margin.

GraceAnn Walden’s Inside Scoop column talks about the 2005 Zagat survey and their San Francisco picks, XOX Truffles, a local chocolate maker that is expanding, and a fabulous special on crab dishes at a neighborhood restaurant.

Best of all, Walden reports that a new owner has taken over the Roosevelt Tamale Parlor. This Mission district family business of over 80 years, had previously announced that they would close. (Roosevelt’s has been a personal favorite of mine for 20+ years, best chilaquiles in the world, glad that they will continue.)

Capsule reviews report on local restaurants:

Barracuda, Japanese in Burlingame

Alamo Creek Restaurant, Cal/Mediterranean in Alamo

Banyan Tree, Malaysian in Pleasant Hill

Neumanali, California cuisine in Hayward

Cascade Bar, contemporary American in Mill Valley

Karola Saekel reviews the The Gourmet Cookbook from Gourmet Magazine Cookbook and offers two recipes:

Gingered Noodle Salad with Mango and Cucumber

Warm Chocolate Raspberry Pudding Cake

Karola also looks back into culinary history to explain a classic,

Sauce Robert

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan, offers ideas for soups that transition from summer to fall:

Gazpacho with Avocado

Salmon and Corn Chowder

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 6, 2004

The lead story is Salts of the Earth, by Janet Fletcher

This article discusses the various types of speciality salts that are available and gives recipes and and tips for how to make the best use of these often expensive seasonings.

Tip on Using Coarse Salt: When using coarse salt to season a liquid, such as a soup, be sure to allow time for it to dissolve. You may mistakenly think the dish needs yet more salt, if what you’ve added hasn’t fully dissolved.

Recipes include:

Pearl's Ahi Tuna Tatare w/Hawaiian Red Salt

Holly Peterson Mondavi's Pan-Roasted Potatoes

White Bean Soup with Smoked Salt

Octopus & Potato Salad (Pulpo a la Gallega)

Shrimp with Garlic & Chiles (Gambas al Ajillo)

Butter Cookies with Fleur de Sel

In a special to the Chronicle, writer Troy Sawaisanyakorn, talks about the growing popularity in upscale sushi bars of a controversial delicacy, Liver of the Monkfish. Those who love this delicacy, known in Japan as Ankimo, say it is “very rich and creamy, but yet at the same time very light and delicate, feeling silky and velvety to the palate”. However the Montery Bay Aquarium lists monkfish on the list of fish consumers should avoid because of overfishing.

Sonoma County organic farmers, Tom and Heidi Kirkland are profiled in Karola Saekel's Seasonal Cook column. Included are recipes that feature their specialty potatoes:

Russian Blue Potato Salad

Rose Fill Apple Fingerling Stir-Fry

Amanda Berne reviews tiny Mission district Trattoria Vogalonga and recommends it as the perfect place for a romantic date.

Supermarket brownies are the subject of this week's Taster's Choice with Andronico's narrowly beating Safeway for the top score.

For the Inside Scoop GraceAnn Walden reports on new projects in West Marin, a Pat Kuleto restaurant and B&B on Tomales Bay and an expansion for Hog Island Oyster Company in Marshal.

Peanut Butter Loaf Cake and PDQ Oatmeal Cookies are perfect for back to school lunches and after school snacks. Recipes from Flo Braker, The Baker.

The Chronicle Food and Wine staff are now offering cooking classes at a new location in the Ferry Building. Check out the class schedule.

The Exchange readers fulfill a request for 20 year old Sunset Magazine recipe for Barley Pine Nut Casserole. There are new requests for persimmon salad, Hick'ry Pit barbecue sauce, Lancer's fried zucchini and the oatmeal cakes (the ones with a strong resemblance to a hockey puck ) that are often found in Bay Area coffee shops.

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 13, 2004

Rooftop Harvest

Olivia Wu tells us about the Chronicle food staff's second year of container gardening on their roof South of Market. The staff loves their garden for the ready supply of fresh herbs and vegetables and also for a quiet spot for breaks. The accompanying recipes were developed to take advantage of the beautiful produce.

Basil Leaf with Veal

Bread Pudding with Kabocha Squash & Herbs

Warm Rainbow Chard with Bacon & Apple

Green Bean Tempura with Tarragon Leaves

Scallops with Clear Cilantro Oil

Marlena Spieler and her Roving Feast go to the (not always tranquil) English seashore. There is a recipe for the very British Treacle Tart.

Aloha, Spam and Kalua Pig

In a special to the Chronicle, Stett Holbrook talks about the diverse origins of native Hawaiian food. There is a list of Hawaiian restaurants in the Bay Area and a recipe for Tita's Hale 'Aina Pork Adobo.

What's New:

- Local German restaurants for Oktoberfest

- Local grocery sources for Oktoberfest

- La Farine French Bakery in Berkeley

- Newly renovated Cliff House Bistro

Taster's Choice compares Ceasar salad dressings. The winner was Ken's Steak House Creamy.

With Tuscany as her inspiration, The Working Cook, Tara Duggan, suggests Ham & Cheese Panini w/Mixed Greens & Apple Salad for dinner in under 30 minutes. For a recipe that provides leftovers for later in the week try Pappa al Pomodoro (bread and tomato soup).

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 20, 2004

The Maestro of Service

Kim Severson profiles Laura Cunningham, the manager of the French Laundry and Per Se restaurants.

If you admire the cuisine of chef Thomas Keller then this article will give you insights about the about the restaurant manager that completes the dining experience at The French Laundry and Per Se.

"All of a sudden, the French Laundry was the cutting-edge restaurant in America," [restaurant consultant] Karen MacNeil says. "And if you were Thomas Keller or Laura Cunningham, you thought to yourself, 'What would be the service equivalent of our cuisine?' The answer is that it has to be elegant. It has to be refined. It has to be creative and nuanced. But at the same time it cannot suggest a French strictness or stiffness. Stiff and strict makes Americans uncomfortable."

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden continues her examination of the new Zagat guide. Can the online voting skew the results?

Seasonal Cook, Caroline Pagel has some lovely autumn ideas for apples.

Cured Pork Chops over Warm Cabbage-Apple Salad

The Baker, Flo Braker, has another apple recipe.

Uncle Sam's Rum-Raisin Apple Galette

What's New:

- New Japanese restaurant in Napa: Budo

- Deviled Eggs are making a comeback

- Sambazon acai fruit frozen pulp, from the Amazon rainforest

- Goat milk butter at Whole Foods

Dining Out with Amanda Berne reviews quirky Midori Mushi, a most unusual sushi experience in Hayes Valley.

There are two cookbook reviews. Karola Saekel on "The Olive Harvest Cookbook" by Gerald Gass and Jacqueline Mallorca. Gass is the chef at McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma, CA. The ranch is known for its organic, estate grown olive oils.

There is a recipe for Fresh Tuna Salad with Dry-Cured Black Olives from the book.

"Aroma: The Magic of Essential Oils in Food and Fragrance" by Mandy Aftel and Daniel Patterson is reviewed by Caroline Pagel. A sample recipe is for Pork Chops with Coffee-Fig Sauce & Parsnip-Potato Puree.

South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan enjoys traditional marrow beans and heirloom tomatoes at a Slow Food sponsored, “dinner in the field” in Healdsburg.

Marrow Beans in the Field

Mateo Granados' Charred Heirloom Tomatoes, Red Onion & Jalapenos

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 27, 2004

Fresh Soft Cheeses

And what is Quark anyway?

Janet Fletcher enlightens us as to the various types of fresh cheeses that are readily available in the Bay Area. The article talks about the cheese making process, describes the different varieties and provides wonderful recipes for using them.

Pizza with Fromage Blanc, Bacon & Leeks

Creamy Yogurt Cheese with Garlic

Campton Place's Quark Souffle

Whipped Ricotta with Candied Orange Peel & Almonds

Black Beans with Chorizo & Queso Fresco

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden traces the career paths of some popular San Francisco chefs as the Fifth Floor gets a new top chef. There are also reports on Joanne Karlinsky (formerly chef of the Meetinghouse) who has a new venture in Novato, and changes at Pere Jeanty, the menu now features steaks.

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler says goodbye to the peaches and tomatoes of summer and embraces autumn’s riches.

Dandelion Greens with Garlic & Red Chile Flakes

Spiced Tapioca Pudding with Ginger-Persimmon Compote a la Slanted Door

Ginger Syrup

What's New:

- Soaring tomato prices

- Myth restaurant opens in Jackson Square with contemporary American food from chef Sean O'Brien who formerly worked with Gary Danko

- Swanson Organic chicken broth in a box

- Martin Yan's latest book is "Martin Yan Quick & Easy"

- Ecco La Pasta mixes for gnocchi and fresh pasta

Taster's Choice reviews organic reduced-fat milk. Naturally Preferred was the winner, closely followed by Stremick's Heritage and Organic Valley.

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan suggests homey comfort food for the cold and rainy weather. Pan Roasted Chicken with Sweet Potato "Fries" is a fast dinner and Cream of Mushroom Soup will provide leftovers to extend the comfort all week.

Letters to Food has several readers commenting on the new San Francisco Zagat Survey as well as high school composting, grilled cheese, and ravioli.

The Exchange, Karola Saekel Readers send a recipe for Persimmon-Apple Salad and Salad Dressing for Persimmon Salad. There are new requests for prune cake such as the one made by Carl's Bakery (Mission district) in the 60's. Also from San Francisco's past, a request for chicken turnovers with gravy from Kent's Chicken House on Polk Street. Other readers are looking for recipes for candied orange slices dipped in chocolate and "lebkuchen", a German Christmas cookie.

Capsule restaurant reviews:

- Pigalle in downtown Los Gatos

- Sirayvah, Thai in San Carlos

- Thai Ginger Bistro in Petaluma

- Tapeo, tapas and paella in San Rafael

- Small Shed Flatbreads in Mill Valley

- Three Seasons, pan-Asian in Walnut Creek

[PamelaF]

Digest: The San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 03, 2004

For the Love of Pho

By Carol Ness and Amanda Berne

Good pho can be delicate or rich-tasting, spicy or subtle, loaded up with condiments or unadorned. Its success lies in a balance of well-made broth, noodles, beef and accents. And it has to be hot enough to steam up your glasses.

While Americans are embracing pho as a fast food, a well-made bowl is all about the broth, and that means simmering bones and meat for hours. In the pot, too, are charred ginger and onions and, usually, star anise, cloves and other warm spices.

Includes a listing of great Pho restaurants in San Francisco’s “Little Saigon” neighborhood and tips on translating the menus. Recipe:

Pho Ga (Chicken Soup with Rice Noodles)

The Baker, Flo Braker has make-ahead recipes for Thanksgiving. Also a great tip, use a 9' x 13” rectangular spring form pan for the pumpkin tart.

Thanksgiving is a time to give thanks and to express gratitude to those we love. Some of us do it with words, others with deeds. This year I will do it with pumpkin tarts and cranberry brioche rolls.

Harvest Fresh Pumpkin Tart

Cranberry Brioche Rolls

Fresh Pumpkin or Squash Puree

Seasonal Cook, Janet Fletcher writes about the underappreciated Brussels sprout, which thrives on our foggy central coast.

Brussels Sprouts with Mustard-Caper Butter

Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta & Caraway

What’s New:

- Sources for “heritage” breeds of turkey

- Ling Ling Potstickers

- Diestel Family Ranch now offers smaller size turkeys

- Victoria Taylor’s brining spice blends, for turkey

- Gorton’s seafood now offers fresh seafood gift baskets

- 34 Degrees fruit pastes imported from Australia and New Zealand

- Sunspire baking chips, organic and no trans-fat

- Produce alternatives for the scarce tomato

- Harvest Urban Market opens at Eighth Street and Howard

- “The Future of Food”, documentary film. The screening on November 11 at the Castro Theatre benefits Slow Food.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden, reports on the effects of the San Francisco hotel workers strike and lockout. Also higher prices for the upcoming January “Dine About Town” promotion, Tonno Rosso, City Tavern and more.

Also, from the Sunday October 31, 2004 Chronicle, for a Cook’s Night Out, GraceAnn Walden visits Koi Palace with Martin Yan.

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 10, 2004

Tools of the Trade, by Tara Duggan

With an eye towards holiday entertaining and gift giving, the Chronicle Food staff makes a list of the equipment necessary for a properly outfitted kitchen. They have recommendations for beginning/basic cooks as well as tools for more specialized needs. Also, kitchen safety tips.

New Column!

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran, explains how to make pie crust with step-by-step, illustrated instructions. Also, choosing the perfect pie pan.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden, rock and roll is the theme as a new restaurant takes its name from a San Francisco landmark, Winterland and Sammy Hagar is a partner in a new restaurant to open next year near SBC Park. Other changes are reported in the ball park neighborhood as well.

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler is elegant in a traditional sari to celebrate Diwali, the Hindu festival of light. Her recipe is for a vegetarian curry, with paneer, potatoes and rich spices.

Sahi Kofta Curry

Curry Sauce for Kofta

What’s New:

- The new Meyer lemon crop is coming into markets

- Persimmons still going strong

- Freezer to oven turkey from Jennie-O

- Trader Vic’s is back, in the former Stars location

- Open Table gift certificates

- Latino Cuisine Culinary Academy opens a new café in the Mission

Letters to Food, local restaurateurs (Zachary's Pizza) respond to comments about the Zagat survey and another reader, representing the Heritage Turkey Foundation, provides some additional information.

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan has recipes for Shepherd’s Pie with Spiced Meat (great for leftovers) and a fast, spicy stir-fry Braised Tofu with Black Bean Sauce and Baby Bok Choy.

East to West, Linda Furiya, adds Asian spices for a new take on chicken wings, and creates a unique dipping sauce.

Spicy Asian Chicken Wings

Feta, Cilantro & Sour Cream Dipping Sauce

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 17, 2004

This week brings is a special, expanded food section with special recipes for Thanksgiving. The cover story, "Thanksgiving with an Asian Touch" gives you some new ideas, while the Chronicle Food Staff provides their tested "Best Way" methods for traditional holiday dishes.

Thanksgiving with an Asian Touch, Olivia Wu

There is a complete menu (wine recommendations too):

Coconut-Galangal Soup in a Squash Shell

Glazed Five-Spice Turkey with Stuffed Gravy

Lotus Leaf Rice Dressing

Cranberry Old-New Chutney

Double-Cooked Long Beans

Two Persimmon Tart with Almond Base

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel loves pumpkins.

Autumnal Lamb Stew with Sugar Pie Pumpkin

Sweet-Sour Pumpkin Pickles

Taster's Choice, Carol Ness

A panel of local pastry chefs tastes readymade pie crusts. With a score of only 51, Wholly Healthy Truly Natural wins.

What's New:

• Boulette's Larder, meals to go, fully or partially prepared, in the Ferry Building
  
• CalciMilk, calcium enriched milk
  
• C & L Steakhouse opens in the old Charles Nob Hill space
  
• "The Low-Carb Gourmet", author Karen Barnaby, new cookbook from Rodale
  
• Maya Kaimal's new line of refrigerated Indian simmer sauces
  

Thanksgiving Resources:

• Where to get Thanksgiving dinners to go
  
• Holiday help telephone hot lines
  
• Poultry labeling terms defined
  
• Turkey cooking and thawing timetable
  
• Tips on buying, storing and stuffing a turkey
  
• Thanksgiving dinner planning timetable
  
• Wine recommendations for Thanksgiving dinner
  

The Chronicle's Classic Best Ways:

Best Way Brined Turkey

Seasoning Pastes to add excitement to the turkey

More “Best Way” recipes:

Gravy for Brined Turkey

Best Way Mashed Potatoes

Best Way Piecrust

Pumpkin Pie

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran

How to carve a turkey, with illustrations.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

News about the hotel and restaurant workers lockout and how the California Culinary Academy has become involved, a field trip to Cache Creek Casino Resort, and more.

Cook's Books, Karola Saekel

"Simply Elegant Soups", by George Morrone with John Harrison.

Former chef of Aqua and the Fifth Floor shares his signature soup recipes.

Cream of Cauliflower & Roquefort Soup

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 24, 2004

When life gives you turkey . . ., Karola Saekel

Ideas for great turkey sandwiches from Bay Area chefs.

Also tips on make superior sandwiches.

Sloppy Tom, from Daniel Scherotter, Palio d’ Asti

Turkey-Cranberry Relish Sandwich, Fran Scibelli, Dena & Deluca

Turk Monsieur, Carlo Middione, Vivande Porta Via

No-Full Turkey Sandwich, Marilyn Rinzler, Poulet

Grilled Turkey & Brie Sandwich, Gerald Hirigoyen, Bocadillos

Seafood of the Season, Olivia Wu

Crab season is open, but should more controls be in place on crab fishing.

On Nov. 15, the boats raced out, competing against big vessels from Oregon and other points north, and sunk as many traps as they could. They returned to shore loaded, and then, with no means to sell such volume, cooked the crabs and froze them.

"It's a wide-open, no-arms-control, season," says Zeke Grader, executive director of the Pacific Coast Federation of Fishermen's Associations.

How does this affect the consumer? When you buy cooked crab at a wharf- side cafe, or take it home for dinner, chances are you'll be eating something that was frozen, often early in the season.

Also, when you can find only small, high-priced live crabs later in the season, you can thank the early-season gold rush that depleted the stocks.

Also, How to Prepare Live Crab and Where to Buy Crab Right Off the Boat.

Crab with Fennel & Sausage Sauce

Crab with Lobster Sauce

Seasonal Cook, Georgeanne Brennan

Sweet and savory recipes for quince.

Duck Breast with Braised Quince, Pears & Dried Figs

Poached Quince & Frisee Salas with Blue Cheese Croutons

Quince Poached in Vanilla Syrup

Quince Upside-Down Tart

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Marlena remembers some past Thanksgivings, as she decides where she will celebrate this year. The lucky hosts will enjoy this dessert:

Pear, Almond & Dried Cherry Tart

What’s New:

• Clementines and cipollini onions are fresh in the market
  
• Truffles are a bargain this year (relatively speaking)
  
• Restaurant Luella opens in Russian Hill
  
• Name changes on favorite brand name foods
  
• New, super burgers at fast food chains
  

Taster’s Choice

The tasting panel tries canned and boxed tomato soups (the perfect accompaniment to turkey sandwiches). They find Ralphs brand to be on top with a score of 61.

The classic Campbell’s is far behind with only 21 points.

Where to eat out on Thanksgiving Day

Thanksgiving Survival Guide: A summary of last week’s info on cooking the Thanksgiving turkey.

Chronicle’s “Best Way” Brined Turkey

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Review of Rotee, casual Indian and Pakistani food in the lower Haight.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

• New restaurants on Washington Square and in Montclair
  
• Sunset soiree (aka happy hour) specials at the Left Bank restaurants
  
• Gingerbread houses on Union Square, and more . . .
  

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, December 1, 2004

Deck the Halls and Have a Ball, special to the Chronicle by Marlene Sorosky Gray

Recipes and tips on how to plan and throw an elegant, holiday cocktail party.

I've also finally figured out what makes the perfect hors d'oeuvre. It is a morsel that can be picked up, popped into your mouth and swallowed easily, while carrying on a conversation.

It should never be so large that your cheeks are puffing, your head is bobbing and your arms are frantically pantomiming, "Wait! I need to swallow this." Nor should it dribble down your guests' chins or detract from their conversation. If it must be bitten into, it should not ooze, drip or flake.

Roasted Eggplant, Onion & Red Pepper Dip

Pita Triangles

Southwest Mango & Avocado Salsa

Sun-Dried Tomato, Olive & Asiago Crostini

Thai Peanut Check Salad in Endive Leaves

Blini cups with Smoked Salmon or Caviar

Onion Bhajis with Yogurt Mint Sauce

Shrimp & Corn Croquettes

Moroccan Spinach & Red Lentil Pancakes with Cumin-Date Sauce

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

Lots of new cookbooks are out in time for the holidays, here are some capsule reviews.

• "On Food and Cooking” (new edition), Harold McGee
  
• ”Italian Slow and Savory”, Joyce Goldstein
  
• ”Bouchon”, Thomas Keller
  
• ”Wolfgang Puck Makes It Easy”, Wolfgang Puck
  
• ”Party Appetizers – Small Bites, Big Flavors", Tori Ritchie
  
• ”Eating My Words”, Mimi Sheraton
  
• ”Fork It Over”, Alan Richman
  

Recipes:

Monkfish with Potatoes, from “Italian Slow and Savory”

Salmon Tartare, from “Bouchon”

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

The San Francisco hotel strike and lockout ends on November 30th and local restaurants are recovering, Peruvian food is a new trend in San Francisco, the Asian Chef’s Association holds a successful benefit, and more...

Taster’s Choice

The second product tasted by a panel of Bay Area pasty chefs is shortbread cookies. The top score goes to “The Cakemaker” brand from a local San Francisco bakery. Second place goes to the “Highland Pride” brand from Trader Joe’s.

[Hest88]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section - Wednesday December 8, 2004

'Tis the season for...cookies!

The lead story, Sugar & Spice by noted baker Flo Braker, gives the lowdown on special holiday cookies, including baking tips.

Frying for Hanukkah? Miriam Morgan hands out some frying advice in At Hanukkah, get ready for frying and more frying!

We know shopping can really drag you down, so how about some tea for a classic pick-me-up? Loree Dowse suggests a few places for a bite and a cuppa, including the St. Francis, the Palace Hotel, the Ritz, Neiman Marcus, and others in Tea soothes the harried shopper.

What's New

- New restaurants in Walnut Creek, Larkspur Landing, Los Gatos, and Montclair.

- Is fresh olive oil the latest craze?

- Market Watch - bergamot, Satsumas, and tomatos

Taster's Choice

Bottled lemon curd just doesn't cut it, with top choice going to Bella Cucina with a measly 50 points out of 100.

The Working Cook

This week features braised meat, for a rich, warming meal.

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Exceptional Korean in the Richmond.

Cook's Books, Kate Benfield

The King Arthur Flour Cookie Companion: The Essential Cookie Cookbook

This week's recipes:

Potato Latkes

Apple Fritters

Pork Chops Braised in White Wine With Brussels Sprouts

Red Wine Braised Lamb Shanks

Peppermint Spiral Cookies

Jeweled Thumbprints

Bite-Size Chocolate Fruitcakes

Snow-Covered Coconut Cookies

Maple-Pecan Medjool Date Rugalach

The Classic Martini

Almond Mocha Martini

Fuziotini

Dirty Martini

Soft Gorgonzola-Topped Polenta

Monkey Gland Cocktail

Edited December 8, 2004 by Hest88 (log)

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, December 15, 2004

Olives & Nuts! Staples of the holiday party buffet, can also be good for you.

Olives, Janet Fletcher

Learn all about the huge variety of olives available at grocery store olive bars everywhere.

In recent years, Bay Area olive bars have expanded not only in number but in size. Some markets now offer 15 or 20 different olive types and allow shoppers to mix and match for a fixed price per pound. With holiday entertaining hitting high gear, it's a good time to get better acquainted with what's in all those bins. . . .

People spend more at the olive bar, says Orphan, because there's no sticker shock. A customer who might flinch at a $6 jar of olives will rarely do the math when filling a plastic tub with olives priced by the pound.

Olive Glossary

Seasoning & Serving Olives

Nancy Jenkins' Marinated Black Olives

Green Olive & Pine Nut Tapenade

Green Olive Salad

A16's Marinated Olives

Bistro Don Giovanni's Marinated Olives

Nutritionists say it's OK to go a little wild about Nuts, Carol Ness

"The data on nuts are really amazing," says Penny Kris-Etherton, an expert on lipids and heart disease at Pennsylvania State University, and member of the advisory committee drawing up new federal dietary guidelines due for release early next year.

"The more you eat, the lower the risk of heart disease. You can reduce your risk anywhere from 40 percent to 50 percent," Kris-Etherton says. "The results have been very consistent."

Nutty Basics

Savory & Sweet Mixed Nuts

Rosemary Almonds

Chiwda

Pepitas con Chile de Arbol y Ajo

What's New:

• Cold weather means high prices on lettuce and other greens, bitter greens like chicory are at their peak.
  
• Mochi ice cream treats from Bubbies of Honolulu
  
• Where to enjoy a special hot chocolate
  
• Cipolline boreattane, from Italy are cocktail onions marinated in balsamic vinegar at A. G. Ferrari
  

Taster's Choice, Carol Ness

This week the pastry chefs taste Dark Chocolate Truffles. Moonstruck from Portland, Oregon is the winner.

Seasonal Cook, Tara Duggan, Ideas for local, winter vegetable Celery Root

Grilled Marinated Scallops with Salade Remoulade

Gratin of Celery Root & Young Turnips with their Greens

The Exchange, Karola Saekel

Readers provide a recipe for Lebkuchen, a traditional German Christmas cookie. There are new requests for NPR fruitcake and a "light and fluffy" cheesecake from the former Ramona Bakery.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Soon to open Hotel Vitale will have a restaurant, Americano, headed by chef Paul Arenstam . . . more changes from Pascal Rigo . . . Thai vs. Thai in North Beach . . . Tamal small plates south of Market . . . Latitude in Rohnert Park . . . XOX Truffles (the sweet variety) in Montclair . . . Italian-Jewish holiday specials at Palatino in Bernal Heights . . . and more.

Dining Out, Amanda Berne, visits A la Turka on Geary for exotically spiced Turkish food at a very affordable price.

Capsule restaurant reviews:

• Iron Springs Pub & Brewery in Fairfax
  
• Tomodachi Sushi Bistro in Hayward
  
• Fontina Ristorante in Berkeley
  
• The Van's a landmark in Belmont
  

Letters to Food

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran explains the different cuts of pork and how to cook them.

Cook's Books, Natalie Kennedy reviews "The Complete Book of Pork" by Bruce Aidells, there is a recipe from the book.

Breakfast Strata

On-Line Special Feature: Holiday Entertaining Guide

This is a collection of past articles about holiday food and drink.

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, December 22, 2004

Winter Lights, Olivia Wu

Flamed Dishes add sizzle and sparkle to the holidays

In the deepest, darkest hours of winter, we draw toward light as moths to a flame. We light candles. We swarm around hearth fires; we ignite bonfires. Some of us even set our plates ablaze, bringing fire and light to the table. In a winter of drizzle, 'tis the season for sizzle -- never mind the rare singed eyebrow.

It used to be that any dining room worth its velvet curtains and dangling chandeliers would stage a tableside show. Along with the standing rib roast carved tableside would be the flamed steak Diane, crepes suzette and cherries jubilee. Exhibiting high elegance, a tuxedoed waiter would cook for his guests, doing a dance with fire. In a Chinese restaurant, the theatrics were played for the ear in musical rice, with the sound of fried rice cakes fizzing and popping at the table.

Recipes:

Sizzling Seafood Soup

Rice Cakes (for the soup)

Ostrich Steak with Cherry Gastrique

Flambe of Bananas & Figs

Flan Flambe

Candied Orange Peel (for the flan)

Tips on how to succeed with flambe

Posole tames the partying with hearty flavors of home, Janet Fletcher

Featuring eGullet’s own Rancho Gordo! Includes instructions for preparing dried whole corn.

Both the soup and the dried corn that is its one essential ingredient share the name posole (pozole in the American Southwest). Mexicans know at least three versions -- red, white and green -- each of them subject to variation depending on who's cooking.

Dried ancho, guajillo or cascabel chiles, or a combination, give posole rojo its brick-red color. Tomatillos, herbs and sometimes pumpkin seeds produce posole verde's deep green hue. White posole (posole blanco), a Sunday breakfast in Guerrero, includes neither chiles nor green herbs, but powdered chile or salsa is served on the side.

Recipes:

Rancho Gordo Posole Verde (Green Posole)

Posole Rojo (Red Posole with Pork)

For soirees, you can always say cheese, Natalie Kennedy

Ideas for preparing a spur of the moment cocktail party.

Recipes:

Parmesan Nacho Bar

Cornbread “bruschetta”

No-fuss phyllo

Vege-tinis

What’s New :

• Special time and day for the Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market – Friday from 10am to 2pm (it will be closed on Saturday for Christmas)
  
• Last minute holiday treats at the Ferry Building, such as stuffed boneless quail, salmon Wellington and cassoulet, all ready to cook
  
• Holiday foods from Caper on Fillmore and the Pasta Shop in Berkeley too
  
• Jack Falstaff opens near SBC Park, new from the PlumpJack Group
  
• Gourmet “oreo” cookies from Bouchon Bakery in Yountville
  
• Mandarins, tangerines and other citrus are in the market this week, long with dark, leafy greens
  

Taster’s Choice , Carol Ness

The pastry chefs taste Caramel Sauces, the top two are La Palla and La Salamandra dulche de leche both from Argentina.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Restaurant spaces goes empty in the Presidio . . . Max’s Diner on Third Street will close . . . . Changes at Café Maritime . . . favorites from the Ferry Building will be available at a new café in Hayes Valley . . . Alexander’s Steakhouse will open in Cupertino . . . Dogs ‘N Buns is a new financial district lunch spot.

East to West , Linda Furiya

Finish off a festive evening with Okayo Donburi, comforting food for late night.

Chicken, Onion & Egg Rice Bowl

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, December 29, 2004

Ring It In, Marlena Spieler

The Roving Feast - Marlena is planning a cozy, stay-at-home pajama party for New Year’s Eve. Grilled cheese sandwiches and popcorn are elevated to celebration status.

Recipes:

Bloody & Virgin Marys

Truffled Popcorn

Melted Cheddar, Chutney & Cilantro on Whole Wheat

Rosemary-Scented Melted Jarlsberg and Red Pepper on Sourdough

Prosecco & Lemon Sorbet “Floats”

S’Mores

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

A year-end review of Bay Area restaurants shows that the Bay Area dining scene is looking up, plus a review of local restaurant comings and goings in 2004.

Seafood of the Season, Olivia Wu

Roe, row, roe your trout – Steelhead Trout Roe is a sustainable and affordable alternative to caviar.

Steelhead roe is truly an American local and seasonal delicacy. Plus, the steelhead are caught and harvested in a clean fishery that supports small fishing families and protects the trout and their environment.

The law permits just two American Indian tribes, the Quinault and the Quileute, to fish commercially for steelhead, long a revered game fish along the coast. In an outcome of the historical struggles between the Quinaults and the Washington state government, the tribe now has commercial access to the steelhead run, says Peter Redmayne, marketing manager for Quinault Pride Seafood.

Recipes:

Easy-Cure Steelhead Trout Roe

Katsu Matsuda’s Ikura & Misore Ae

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

A review of all winning products for the year, including 12 products that made it into the Taster’s Choice Hall of Fame by achieving a score or 80 or better from the panel.

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

A hearty soup to have on hand for cold and hungry holiday visitors.

Recipes:

Skip’s Meatball Soup

Vegetable Stock

Meatballs

Favorite Romesco Sauce

Cook’s Books, Kate Benfield

“Hallelujah! The Welcome Table, A Lifetime of Memories with Recipes”, Maya Angelou

The book features food-related anecdotes from the author’s life accompanied by recipes.

Recipes:

Caramel Cake

Caramel Syrup

Caramel Frosting

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran

Explains the different types of flour that are available and appropriate uses for each type.

[Hest88]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, January 8, 2005

Morning Comfort, Lynne Char Bennett

Every cuisine has some version of hot cereal, be it oatmeal, jook, or champurrado. Read all about the real "Breakfast of Champions"!

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

What are the hot restaurants for 2005? Take your pick!

Seasonal Cook, Georgeanne Brennan

Sun-colored squash brightens the plate – Winter squash is both tasty AND healthy. Articles includes recipes and photos of the kinds of squash you can use to add some color to your winter dishes.

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Can any brand of packaged gnocchi compare to grandma's? The Chronicle tasters say "no"!

The Exchange Karola Saekel

When life gives you oranges

Chocolate dipped orange peel recipe found, and new requests for old-fashioned fare.

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

Lidia's Family Table, by Lidia Bastianich

Lidia's fourth Istrian cookbook.

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Laurel's Cuban

Is this Hayes Valley restaurant worth the price of the mojitos?

This Week's Recipes:

Winter Squash Pancakes With Pomegranates

Musquee de Provence Gratin With Two Cheeses

Butternut Gnocchi With Butter & Parmesan, more

Cauliflower & Egg Salad

Chocolate-Dipped Candied Orange Peel

Turkey Jook

Cream of Wheat

Kao Dom

Champurrado (chocolate atole), more

Pâté & Pear Crostini

Organized Chaos

Edited January 5, 2005 by Hest88 (log)

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, January 12, 2005

Kids in the Kitchen, Tara Duggan

Many kids seem to be taking an interest in food and cooking and lots of Bay Area companies are targeting that market with books, cooking classes, videos and even a kid’s cookware line. This trend is promising in that the next generation will have better knowledge about nutrition and cooking skills than their parents.

Nutritionists agree that the earlier kids learn about eating well, the better their chance of avoiding obesity or diabetes later. But not all parents have time to cook with their children, which has led to a proliferation of kids' cooking classes.

"Fifty to 60 percent (of parents) bring their children because they don't cook," says Lynda Rexroat, owner and instructor of Cooking with Kids, a program offered at various East Bay community centers. "I live in an affluent community -- Ph.Ds, professionals. They don't know a fig about nutrition. No one has time."

Rexroat has seen her enrollment increase over the last two years and attributes much of the growth to the popularity of Food Network. Her classes include children as young as 3 1/2, who do less of the preparation and more of the assembly than her older students.

Also accompanying this feature is a list of books and other resources for promoting healthy eating for kids and an article by Natalie Kennedy “Learning to taste and food preferences begin in the early years of childhood”.

Recipes:

Easiest Pasta & Cheese with Vegetables

Saturday Pancake

Smiley Pizza with Whole Wheat Oatmeal Crust

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

“Long-cooked greens warm the heart” Chefs Sharon Anderson and Sherrie Sparks of the Oakland restaurant Purple Plum share some thoughts on updated soul food.

Recipes:

Stewed Mixed Greens

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Bay Area restaurants are helping out with tsunami relief with some special benefit dinners . . . changes at 500 Jackson, Merenda, Tonno Rosso . . . new restaurant Sauce on Gough . . . and more.

What’s New:

• Heavy rain is impacting the local produce supply and raising prices
  
• Landmark Tower Market on Portola has been bought by Mollie Stone’s
  
• Restaurants that offer tasting menus for kids and other kid-friendly specials
  

Taster’s Choice,Carol Ness

Dried apricots: Mariani California Apricots is the winner followed by Trader Joe’s California Slab Apricots.

East to West, Linda Furiya

“Zesty soup tames a cold and warms a tummy”

Recipe:

Soothing Hot & Sour Soup

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

Cookbooks for kids

“Rick & Lanie’s Excellent Kitchen Adventures”, by Rick Bayless and Lanie Bayless (his teenage daughter) and “The International Cookbook for Kids”, by Matthew Locricchio

Recipe (from the Bayless book):

Ham Salad from the Tapas Bar

Letters to Food, feedback from readers on last week’s morning comfort food article.

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, January 19, 2005

In Abuelita's Kitchen, Olivia Wu

Another installment in the "rent-a-Grandma" series, featuring home-style Mexican food.

Recipes:

"Chile Verde" Two Ways

Nopales with Eggs

Grandma's Sopa (Spanish Rice)

Grandma Julianna's Frijoles

New food rules are thin on fun, Carol Ness

Uncle Sam's new recommendations for healthy eating don't leave much room for fooling around.

Once you've eaten all the greens, grains and dairy products the government says you need for optimum nourishment, the average person will have just enough calories left over for some popcorn (no butter) and a glass of Cabernet. 

The article includes examples of food portions and a sample daily menu that is in line with the new guidelines

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Recipes:

Teriyaki Beef Mixed Plate

Saffron Fennel Fish Stew with Couscous

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Marlena reminisces about learning to cook with “The Joy of Cooking”.

Recipe:

Marlena's "Joy" Beef Stroganoff

What's New:

• Bad weather has affected the supply of California citrusfruit, but Dungeness crab is still going strong
  
• "You Say Tomato" is a new shop on California Street that specializes in delicacies from England
  
• Sources for fresh kaffir lime leaves
  
• Coffee purveyors who are donating to tsunami relief
  
• Cafe Divine opens in North Beach
  

Taster's Choice, Carol Ness

The tasting panel votes on vegetable broth, Knorr and Swanson winning.

The Baker, Flo Braker

Pate a choux dough can be used for sweet cream puffs or for a savory appetizer.

Recipe:

Mushroom Chive Puffs

Capsule restaurant reviews:

• Maria Manso World Cuisine in San Rafael
  
• Danville Prime Rib and Steak Restaurant in Danville
  
• La Cheminée in Palo Alto
  

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, January 26, 2005

Waves of grain, Janet Fletcher

The 2005 dietary guidelines, released earlier this month, advise Americans for the first time to eat at least three ounces of whole grains a day. In other words, it's time to return to some of the dietary ways of our ancestors, who knew the benefits of quinoa, whole corn and whole wheat long before the debut of case-control studies.

Modern milling techniques have made grains faster cooking and less perishable, but at a high cost to health and taste. Americans who take the government's advice won't just upgrade their diet. They'll have the pleasure of becoming acquainted with some delicious grains that many have largely ignored, such as bulgur, millet, kasha, quinoa and stone-ground corn.

Recipes:

Café Beaujolais’ Cornmeal Pancakes

Cracked Wheat Cereal with Dates

James Ormsby’s Whole-Wheat Carrot Cake

Bulgur Pilaf with Chickpeas

Lima Bean & Barley Soup

Whole Wheat Pasta with Braised Cabbage & Fried Sage

Don Link’s Rocket Fuel Bread

What’s New: Products from the Fancy Foods Show

• Bottled water, teas and fruit water
  
• Mango in everything, juice, grilling sauce, tea and salsa
  
• Oils, olive, avocado and tea oil
  
• Chocolates!
  
• Local delicacies like fig syrup and pate
  

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Whole wheat bread was sampled and the winner is Vital vittles.

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran

Tips on brining meat, poultry and fish.

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Healthy, low fat Mexican food.

Recipes:

Baked Chile Relleno Puff

Marinated Fish Fillets & Field Greens with Cilantro Vinaigrette

Pounded chicken Breast Fillets

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Koo sushi in the Inner Sunset.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Changes at Azie . . . Vicolo Pizzeria to close . . . The General’s Daughter in Sonoma has been sold . . . new location in SSF for Hung To Seafood . . . dining in the dark . . . and more.

The Exchange, Karola Saekel

Joyce Goldstein submits a recipe for Duck Sauce (Sugo d’anatra) in response to an earlier request. There are new requests for help with apple pie and vegetable chips.

Letters to Food

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, February 02, 2005

A Sociable Sunday, Amanda Berne

The author shares the story of how her own tradition of Sunday dinner with friends has evolved. There is a complete Caribbean menu. This article is sub-titled “Sunday Diner - Part One”, looks like the start of a new series.

Recipes:

Ginger Sunrise cocktail

Tostones

Smoky Black Bean Dip

Jerk Chicken Lettuce Wraps

Ceviche de Palmitos

Tropical Shrimp Cakes

Lime Tartlets with Coconut Cream

For some Super Bowl means cheesesteak, Traci Barr

Here’s this year’s most important Super Bowl question, Lobster Roll vs. Cheesteak.

Recipes:

Lobster Roll

Philly Cheese Steak Sandwich

Seasonal Cook, Olivia Wu

Specialties for Lunar New Year. The celebration begins on February 9th. The article includes a photo guide to aid in shopping for Asian ingredients.

Recipes:

New Year Cake with Winter Bamboo

Chinese New Year Cake with Red Jujube Sauce

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Expansion plans for Biscuits & Blues . . . Blupointe raw bar opens in the Financial District . . . Antidote in Sausalito closes . . . and more.

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Frozen Buffalo chicken wings are this week’s test subject. The winner is Manor-House from Safeway.

Capsule Restaurant Reviews, Carol Ness

• Izzy’s Steak & Chop House in San Carlos
  
• Paradise Bay Restaurant & Bar in Sausalito
  
• Pizza Antica in Lafayette
  

Correction: There was an error in last week's recipe for Baked Chile Relleno Puff.

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, February 9, 2005

Mad for Meatballs, Amanda Gold

Cross-cultural comfort food, the second article in the Cooking in Common series.

Recipes:

Nem Nuong (Vietnamese Pork Meatballs)

Nuoc leo (Peanut Dipping Sauce)

Table Salad & Rau

A16's Italian Meatballs with Tomato & White Wine Braise

Town Hall's Veal Meatballs with Green Peppercorn Sauce

Sopa de Albondigas (Meatball Soup)

Swedish Meatballs

Soutzoukakia (Greek Meatballs) with Tomato & Green Olive Sauce

Valentine Dinner for Two, Georgeanne Brennan

Recipes:

Blood Orange, Argula & Pine Nut Salad with Blood Orange Vinaigrette

Dungeness Crab & Wild Mushroom Crepes with Gruyere Sauce

Bite-Size Profiteroles with Chocolate Ice Cream & Whipped Cream

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Brought to California from China, the exact origin of the Meyer Lemon is not known, but it is thought to be a cross between a lemon and a mandarin orange.

Recipes:

Meyer Lemon Cheesecake Roulade

What’s New:

• Claudia's Canine Cuisine, truffles for dogs
  
• Specialty chocolates from CocoaBella, Goldleaf Chocolatier and Bittersweet
  
• Watch out for inflated menu prices on Valentine's Day
  
• Gifts and gadgets at Someone's in the Kitchen
  

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Trader Giotto's frozen meatballs are a clear winner.

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran

Tips for homemade cookies.

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Rigolo offers a French country cafe experience in Laurel Village.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Sonoma Saveurs foie gras shop closes . . . a second Home restaurant to open on Union Street . . . new decor at La Folie . . . and more.

[PamelaF]

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, February 16, 2005

Eating by the Numbers, Carol Ness

Another look at the new U.S. dietary guidelines. How does that super burrito (or other local favorite dishes, like the Zuni Caesar Salad) fit into the new plan? Plus Chronicle food and wine writers do a two week trial.

Seafood of the Season, Olivia Wu

Farmed sea bass, branzino, from Greece is gaining popularity in local restaurants.

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Marlena finds herself invited to a Rabelaisian feast, served in a cave, in the Loire.

Recipe:

Rustic Beans with Pork

What’s New:

• ”The First Jewish American Cookbook”, by Ester Levy is a reprint of the 1871 original
  
• Where to go for Cuban sandwiches
  
• Artichokes are great in the market right now, asparagus and strawberries need more time
  
• New restaurant “Kitchen” opens in Novato
  

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Canned salmon is on trial is week and Costco’s Kirkland Atlantic brand is the winner followed by Trader Joe’s Red.

The Baker, Flo Braker

A comforting cold weather dessert combining bread and chocolate.

Recipe:

Hot Chocolate Bread Pudding

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Take a shortcut to dinner with ready-made frozen gyoza/potstickers, the fast & fresh approach makes use of radicchio and acorn squash.

Recipes:

Gyoza Soup with Kale & Toasted Nori

Radicchio & Squash Ragout with Bulgur

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Chef Keith Luce will open “press” in Napa Valley . . . “Bridges” on Church Street changes hands . . . new chef for the Ventana Inn in Big Sur . . . local restaurateur branching out to Shanghai . . . and more.

Letters to Food