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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle


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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, August 24, 2005

Reinventing the Wheel, Janet Fletcher

Young Central Valley cheesemaker, Marisa Hilarides Simoes, churns out an all-American award winner.

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Marlena takes on a bumper crop of zucchini

Recipe:

Courgettes Nicoise

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

A review of Shanghai Dumpling Shop in the outer Richmond district.

What’s New:

  • Healthier school lunches
  • Tomatoes, eggplant, peppers and figs are in the market now.
  • The café of the new de Young museum in Golden Gate Park is open.

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Blueberry jam and preserves, are disappointing, there are no high scorers.

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Fast grilled meals

Recipes:

Five-spice Pork Chops with Grilled Nectarine & Arugula Salad

Grilled Teriyaki Eggplant with Brown Rice

The Exchange, Karola Saekel

New requests for recipes for “Pink Pastry” shortbread cookies, green chile soufflé, corn and green onion pancakes, and the “Spinnaker” salad.

Recipe:

Date & Nut Squares

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Harbor Village will close after 20 years . . . new chocolate specialty shops open I the Bay Area . . . French Laundry hotel to begin construction in 2006 . . . and more.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, August 31, 2005

Big Fish, Olivia Wu

Seafood of the Season

Yes, you can grill a whole salmon if you stick to this step-by-step guide

Recipes:

Grilled Whole Salmon

Green Curry Sauce

Green Herb Sauce

Seafood Barbecue Sauce

It’s lights, camera, action for aspiring restaurant critics, Carol Ness

A new show heading into production in the studios of KQED-TV is going to put that point of Bay Area pride to the test.

Every week, "Check, Please!" will ask three Bay Area food lovers (is that redundant?) to go on air and chew over their opinions of their favorite restaurant -- whether it's an elite spot like Michael Mina in San Francisco's Union Square or a down-home roadhouse like Uncle Frank's House of Bar-B-Que in Mountain View.

Seasonal Cook, Tara Duggan

Specialty table grapes

What’s New:

  • Menupix.com makes ordering takeout easier, 1,400 menus on-line
  • What’s the secret ingredient in a K-tini?
  • New cookbooks for Tailgater’s
  • Hawthorne Lane chive biscuits to take home

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Mushroom risotto mixes, Safeway Select beats Trader Joe’s

East to West, Linda Furiya

Sukiyaki is boon to hostess – unless it starts an argument

Recipe:

Sukiyaki

Letters to Food

Benefits

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, September 7, 2005

CULINARY PIONEERS, Karola Saekel

From Acme bread to Zuni Cafe, the Bay Area has shaped how America eats

Recipes:

Sand Dabs or Petrale Sole Gaillard

Dover Sole With Crab Brandade, Beurre Blanc & Haricot Verts

Crab Brandade

Haricot Verts with Horseradish Cream

Dijon Beurre Blanc

Parmigiano-Reggiano Crisps with Goat Cheese Mousse

Shaved Fennel, Artichoke & Parmesan Salad

CULINARY PIONEERS-Pioneering garden marks a decade, Karola Saekel

Alice Waters' Edible Schoolyard

Food community mourns in Katrina's wake, Karola Saekel

San Francisco and New Orleans have always had a great affinity. Both have a live-and-let-live attitude, both like to party and -- more than anything -- eat and drink well.

CULINARY PIONEERS - Key ingredients helped baking to blossom in the '60s, Flo Braker

"The saying 'Overnight success takes 15 years' certainly applies to my professional baking career."

Recipes:

Lindsey Shere's Almond Tart

Chocolate Decadence

No-bake way to tart up some great August fruit, Flo Braker

Herbs inspire a restaurant career, Mai Pham

Vietnamese herbs

Recipe:

Lemongrass Pork Lettuce Wraps with Vietnamese Herbs

The Zen masters of Zuni are in for the long run, Olivia Wu

Few restaurant kitchens are characterized by a Zen calm, but in one corner of Zuni Cafe's kitchen, an unexpected tranquility pervades.

European seeds find fertile ground in California, Georgeanne Brennan

"When Charlotte Kimball and I started Le Marché Seeds in 1982, we had no idea what our passion for European-style vegetables would lead to."

The rise and fall and rise of Zin, W. Blake Gray

Zinfandel - California's signature grape.

South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Orchard yields culinary memories

Recipes:

Grilled Fig & Spinach Salad with Walnuts

Sister's Famous Walnut Orchard Pie

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, September 14, 2005

FLAVORS OF MOROCCO, Janet Fletcher

Mourad Lahlou updates his culture's love affair with September's peppers, eggplant and tomatoes

Recipes:

Moroccan Eggplant Soup with Za'atar Croutons

Smoky Eggplant Mousse with Paprika

Moroccan Spiced Tomato Jam

Grilled Pepper Salad with Preserved Lemons

Moroccan Stuffed Peppers

A magnificent melon baller obsession, Marlena Spieler

I was rifling through my cutlery drawer recently, searching for the elusive vegetable peeler in a tangle of tools, when suddenly I saw my melon baller.

THE INSIDE SCOOP, GraceAnn Walden

Rigo expands his empire

What's New:

* Tiki torches light up SoMa

* Shell game

* Flights of fromage

* You gotta have heart

* Maman's siblings

Taster's Choice, Carol Ness

C&W takes top honors in frozen green bean lineup

THE WORKING COOK, Tara Duggan

For that great silky texture, slow-roast that salmon fillet

Events help hurricane victims

Upcoming fundraisers include some benefits for victims of Hurricane Katrina.

Culinary Pioneers recipes

Because of a production error, several recipes in last Wednesday's "Culinary Pioneers" story were missing. Here are the recipes, including the master recipe for chef Michael Mina's Dover sole that was printed.

Recipes:

Michael Mina's Dover Sole With Crab Brandade, Beurre Blanc & Haricot Verts

Crab Brandade

Haricot Verts with Horseradish Cream

Dijon Beurre Blanc

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, September 21, 2005

Going Whole Hog, Carol Ness

Salumi, Italy’s preserved meats, enjoy a rebirth as Bay Area chefs learn the art of making their own

What, exactly, is salumi?, Carol Ness and Deb Wandell

Bay Wolf marks 30 years of cooking and giving back, Karola Saekel

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Humble Romano beans attract Berkeley chef, Anthony Padone

Recipes:

Salad of Butter Lettuce, Romano Beans, Cherry Tomatoes, Basil & Avocado-Lime Dressing

Romano Beans with Cherry Tomatoes, Ricotta & Walnut-Balsamic Vinaigrette

What’s New:

  • Kraft introduces new versions of classic products with no trans fat
  • The Eat Local Challenge
  • Café de la Presse gets a remodel
  • Figs and apples are in the market now

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Sam’s Grill sold . . . Moose’s may be next . . . lots of restaurant openings . . . and more.

New Orleans chefs, restaurateurs return to take stock – and wait, Karola Saekel

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

New owners keep some traditions alive, while adding new life to the St. Francis Fountain

Cook’s Books, Amanda Bowman

“Breakfasts and Brunches”, by the Culinary Institute of America

Recipes:

Spinach & Goat Cheese Quiche

Pie Crust

Letters to Food

Benefits

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Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, September 29, 2005

Mama knows best when it comes to kugel, Amanda Gold

"Kugel, a baked casserole, generally of noodles, can be sweet or savory, topped with cereal, studded with raisins or other fruit, or as simple as noodles, eggs and butter."

Recipes:

Gold Family Noodle Pudding

Brad Levy's Kugel

Jerusalem Peppery Kugel

A grand old Grill, Amanda Berne

After 155 years, San Francisco's iconic restaurant still packs them in

Recipes:

Hangtown Fry

Fillet of Sole All'Agro

THE INSIDE SCOOP, Amanda Berne

Paul Bertolli leaves Oliveto

THE WORKING COOK, Tara Duggan

Greek salad puts a taste of summer on the fall table

Recipes:

Greek Salad

Seared Ahi Tuna

Grilled Tuna Steaks

Kabochas usher in a new season, Linda Furiya

"A kind of pumpkin that is dearest to my heart is a small, squat-shaped Japanese variety called kabocha."

Recipe:

Savory Japanese pumpkin

John Wayne's favorite casserole rides again, Karola Sakel

"Last week's request for a green chile and cheese casserole, which Edith Witherspoon recalled as "Duke's Favorite," turns out to be a reputed culinary indulgence of the macho movie idol."

Recipe:

The Duke's Favorite Cheese Casserole

A roundup of where to dine around the Bay Area, Jennifer Tomaro, Carol Ness, Amanda Gold, Dave Murphy

Capsules of reviews that ran in recent editions East Bay Life, Marin-Sonoma-Napa Friday and Peninsula Friday.

WHAT'S NEW, Amanda Berne, Amanda Gold, Tara Duggan

Dinner in bed

Benefits

More upcoming fundraisers include some benefits for victims of Hurricane Katrina.

LETTERS TO FOOD

It's-It lover questions original recipe

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 5, 2005

Quick Cooking, Tara Duggan

Which magazines offer the best solutions?

Recipes:

Cilantro-Lime Chicken Fajitas with Grilled Onions from Bon Appetit

Grilled Eggplant Salad with Feta, Pine Nuts & Garlicky Yogurt Dressing from Fine Cooking

Flounder in Jalapeno from Gourmet

Spiced Lamb Chops with Chickpea Salad from Real Simple

Chuck Williams at 90, Karola Saekel

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Marlena is in France, specifically the Perigord

Recipe:

Sole on a Bed of Chanterelles

What’s New:

  • Scott Howard restaurant opens in the old Cypress Club location
  • Hooker’s Gumbo Shack opens on Sixth Street
  • Many kinds of flavored mayonnaise can be found at the grocery
  • 2006 Zagat guide is out
  • New restaurant Cav opens near the Civic Center
  • Late season peaches are in the market, also grapes, pomegranates

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Best Foods Canola Mayonnaise gets the top score.

New S.F. Health campaign targets Asian community, Vanessa Hua

The Baker, Flo Braker

Souffle omelets will rise to any occasion

Recipes:

Sweet Souffle Omelet

Savory Herb Souffle Omelet

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

“Roy’s Fish & Seafood; Recipes from the Pacific Rim,” by Roy Yamaguchi

Recipe:

Macadamia Nut-Crusted Mahi Mahi with Thai-Style Coconut-Basil Sauce

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Lots of new restaurant openings, but staff members are in short supply . . . new restaurants in Corte Madera and Sausalito . . . and more.

Capsule Restaurant Reviews

  • Amber Bistro in Danville
  • Brannan’s in Calistoga
  • Olivio’s Restaurant in Belmont
  • Saffron Indian Bistro in San Carlos

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 12, 2005

Porridge and small plates, Olivia Wu

Asian comfort food trend catches on in the Bay Area

Recipes:

Clear Porridge

Roasted Porridge

Garlic Chive Omelet

Salad of Tofu with Pidan Eggs

Chile Crisped Peanuts & Anchovies

Chile Pickled Mustard Greens

Pork with Salted Duck Egg

Anatomy of a porridge-and-small-plates restaurant

Seasonal Cook, Amanda Bowman

Little potatoes a big success

Recipe:

Sautéed Little Farm Potatoes with Fuyu Persimmons

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Berkeley tapas bar Cesar will open another location . . . Louisiana Fried Chicken in Oakland will open a second location in El Cerrito . . . new executive chef at the Lark Creek Inn . . . and more.

What’s New:

  • Fall vegetables in the market
  • Mojito, a new tapas bar opens in North Beach
  • ”The Niman Ranch Cookbook”, by Bill Niman and Janet Fletcher
  • The Club Deluxe, artisan-style pizza on Haight

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough, Tom’s wins, Pillsbury is second.

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Recipes:

Gratineed Gnocchi in Spinach-Tomato Sauce

Roast Chicken Legs with Wine & Grapes

The Exchange, Karola Saekel

Reader’s recipes for a hot fudge sauce like Edy’s in Berkeley used to make. New requests are for popped caramel rice and turnovers from Playland at the Beach, fruit cocktail cake, and Danish Pudding from the 50’s.

Recipes:

Hot Fudge Sauce I

Hot Fudge Sauce II

Cook’s Books, Morgan Barnes

“Perfect Recipes for Having People Over”, by Pam Anderson

The author is the former executive editor of Cook’s Illustrated magazine.

Recipes:

Roast Rack of Lamb with Vinegar-Mint Pan Sauce

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Mangosteen brings a tropical taste to the Tenderloin with Vietnamese dishes.

Letters to Food

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 19, 2005

A slice of Swiss tradition, Janet Fletcher

Raclette cheese ritual binds aficionados

Slow Food to feed homeless, Carol Ness

Seafood by the Season, Olivia Wu

Pacific oysters hit peak in Marin

Recipes:

Pepper Oysters

Crispy Oyster Omelet

What’s New:

  • New treats from Scharffen Berger chocolate
  • New trend for sweet AND savory desserts
  • New law on seafood labeling

Some SF restaurants will support the “Taste for the Cure” promotion this week

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Canned Crabmeat: Nelson SeaTreats and Bryd are top scorers, no others even come close.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Domaine Chandon loses key players . . . restaurant changes in the ball park area . . . SF bartender, Victoria Damato-Moran wins gold at a national competition . . . and more.

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Naples food fair bursts with the glories of Southern California

Recipes:

Pasta with Chickpeas

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

California olive oil claims a rich heritage

Recipes:

Southwestern Grilled Salad with Chipotle Vinaigrette

Grilled Romaine with Cotija Cheese & Marinated Red Onions

Marinated Red Onions

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 26, 2005

Was It Something I Ate?, Janet Fletcher

What to do if you think a restaurant meal has made you sick

What to do if you think you have food poisoning, Janet Fletcher, Kristen Townsend

"If you believe you have been sickened by a restaurant meal, health authorities advise alerting the establishment and calling the health department of the county where the restaurant is located; see accompaying phone numbers."

FROM SOUTH TO NORTH, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Bread for the dead

Recipe:

Day of the Dead Bread

Warm up to butternut squash, Morgan Barnes

"The transition from summer to fall is made easier by focusing on all delicious fall and winter vegetables coming into season, especially butternut squash."

Recipe:

Roasted Squash & Poblano Chile Enchiladas

What’s New:

  • Pasta sauces with rich payoffs
  • MARKET WATCH / Pears, pumpkins and pomegranates
  • DISCOVERIES / Spices in smaller doses
  • SHOPPING CART / Fresh mozzarella logs

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Trader Joe's rice crackers pack the right crunch

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Childhood favorites receive quick and simple makeovers

Recipes:

Pasta with Chickpeas

Chickpea Vegetable Stew with Couscous

Cake from a can? Start with fruit cocktail, Karola Saekel

Recipe:

Fruit Cocktail Cake

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Berkeley's beloved Ozzie's gets a new lease on life...sale of San Francisco's Campton Place...Pizza Antica in Mill Valley...Fish reopening...N.V. Restaurant & Lounge.

Medrich offers a can-do approach, Karola Saekel

Chocolate Holidays has 50-plus recipes for any and all delicious occasions.

Chocolatiers challenge home cooks to be pros, Karola Saekel

In their new book, Chocolate Obsession, Michael Recchiuti and Fran Gage tell all you ever wanted to know about chocolate, and then some.

Benefits

  • Exhibition to focus on family meal
  • Marketplace festival
  • Kitsch-In

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 2, 2005

Extending Family, Olivia Wu

The “Rent-a-Grandma” series: Four generations help a Bay Area woman rediscover her New Orleans roots

Recipes:

Collard Greens

Gumbo

Pound Cake

Sweet Potato Pie

Fried Chicken

Gentry Family Cornbread

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Danilo Bakery changes hands . . . Pancho Villa Taqueria to open a new branch at Pier One . . . Wild Game week at the Huntington Hotel . . . and more.

Consumers gobble up Heritage American turkeys, Carol Ness

What’s New:

  • Wine country restaurateurs open Ame in San Francisco
  • Tres Agaves brings fine tequila to SoMa
  • Laxmi Hiremath has a new cookbook out, “Dance of the Spices”

Benefits

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 9, 2005

Crudo catches on, Carol Ness

Chefs of all stripes are showcasing raw fish

Crudo, ceviche, sashimi, tartare, poke, sushi -- it's all raw fish. And we are swimming in it.

Open just about any menu, from hipster bars to four-star restaurants, and raw fish will be right at the top. What once was the exclusive province of Japanese restaurants and sushi bars is now everywhere.

Considered exotic or even downright unpalatable just a couple of decades ago, raw fish is squarely mainstream, as is Japanese food in general.

Today's buzz, though, is all about crudo, the Italian version. The word itself means "raw" in Italian and Spanish, and generally refers to slices of fish drizzled with subtle or pungent oils and accented with acid and spice -- olive oil, lemon and salt, in the classic presentation.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Ottimista Enoteca-Café opens on Union Street . . . Bay Wolf alum opens Pappo in Alemeda . . . South Bay Amber India expands to San Francisco . . . and more.

Chinese noodle makers find niche in the Mission, Karen Solomon

Recipe:

Spicy Curried Noodles with Chicken in Broth

What’s New:

Restaurant openings:

  • T-Rex Barbecue in Berkeley
  • Garcon, French bistro, on Valencia
  • Bistro 350, CCA’s student-run restaurant at the Potrero Hill campus
  • Half Moon Bay Inn Kitchen and Cocktails
  • Zoya, modern American, on Grove Street
  • Mamacita, upscale Mexican, on Chestnut
  • San Francisco restaurants in the Zagat top 20

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Heat-and-eat rolls fail to rise to the occasion

The Working Cook, Amanda Gold

Recipes:

Chicken Milanese & Arugula Salad

Chorizo & Egg Torta

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

A Caribbean Christmas inspires a unique fruitcake

Recipe:

West Indian Black Cake

Cook’s Books

“The Best Recipes in the World”, by Mark Bittman, reviewed by Rachel Marshall

Recipe:

Mushroom & Cranberry Chicken

“A Baker’s Tour”, by Nick Malgieri, reviewed by Kristen Townsend

Recipe:

Quickest Puff Pastry

Letters to Food

Benefits

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 16, 2005

SPECIAL THANKSGIVING ISSUE

Mix & match feast, Miriam Morgan

Take a turkey, then pick your trimmings from a palette of 30 multicultural recipes

This year, we've included more ideas than ever. You'll find five recipes in each of six categories -- appetizers, condiments, dressings, vegetables, potatoes and dessert -- so you can mix and match for a truly Northern California menu.

Don't want to cook?, Rachel Marshall

Order dinners to go!

TURKEY

Chronicle Classic: Best Way Brined Turkey

Recipes:

Best Way Brined Turkey

Gravy for Brined Turkey

How to prepare a stuffed turkey:

Roasting times for stuffed bird

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Sparkling Martinelli's apple juices top the list

New broths, stocks join lineup, Rachel Marshall

"Two new locally produced options for stock and broth are on supermarket shelves for cooks this holiday season."

Planning for Thanksgiving, Lynne Char Bennett

"This list, while not exactly a step-by-step guide, lays out some basic planning tips and a schedule for getting dinner on the table."

Turkey breast for a smaller feast, Amanda Gold

"The benefits of cooking a turkey breast are multifaceted."

Recipe:

Wine-Braised Turkey Breast

Tips on buying, storing and stuffing turkey

"Here's a short overview of what cooks -- experienced as well as novice -- usually want to know about getting ready for the big meal."

DRESSINGS

Recipes:

Vegetarian Bread Dressing with Apples, Wild Mushrooms & Walnuts

Fig & Prosciutto Cornbread Stuffing Muffins

Chorizo Dressing

Dirty Rice Dressing

Tortilla Souffle Dressing

CONDIMENTS

Recipes:

Red Pepper Marmalade

Citrus-Cranberry Sauce

Fresh Cranberry-Mint Chutney

Red Wine Pear & Applesauce

Spiced Baked Orange Slices

APPETIZERS

Recipes:

Edamame with Sweet Chile Dipping Sauce

Cumin-Spiced Almonds

Prosciutto Pinwheels

Libyan Spicy Pumpkin Dip

Spicy Arugula Salad with Pumpkin-Crusted Brie

VEGETABLES

Recipes:

Brussels Sprouts with Mustard-Caper Butter

Winter Vegetable Cobbler

Braised Napa Cabbage with Shiitake Mushrooms

Acorn Squash Charmoula

Broccoli Rabe with Pancetta & Parmesan

DESSERTS, Flo Braker

Traditional holiday desserts take on a fresh look

Recipes:

Dried Fruit-Nut Florentine Triangle Cookies

Pumpkin Pots de Creme

Rustic Pecan Tart with Bourbon Whipped Cream

Free-form Apple Pie with Quince Paste

Pumpkin Pie

Best Way Piecrust

POTATOES, ETC.

Recipes:

Pumpkin Drop Biscuits with Chile-Honey Butter

Warm Sweet Potato & Apple Salad

Best Way Mashed Potatoes

Wild Rice with Dried Cherries & Toasted Pecans

Sweet Potato Brulee

Best Way Piecrust

Wines to grace your Thanksgiving table, W. Blake Gray

Wine selections for the Thanksgiving feast.

Holiday hot lines

"Got a last-minute turkey question or need some fast ideas? Try these hot lines and Web sites..."

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 23, 2005

Turkey Soup for the Soul, Janet Fletcher

The post-Thanksgiving meal couldn’t be easier, or more satisfying

Recipes:

Turkey Vegetable Soup with Cornmeal Dumplings

Day-After-Thanksgiving Turkey Stock

Turkey Noodle Soup

Baby Greens with Persimmon and Fennel

Poached Pears in Pomegranate Wine Syrup

Seafood by the Season, Olivia Wu

Preparing for crab season

Recipes:

Green Dipping Sauce

Garlic Parsley Sauce

50-50 Butter

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

All the world loves a French fry

Recipe:

Olive Oil Browned Potatoes with Truffle Vinegar & Flaked Salt

What’s New:

  • New restaurant, Redd, opens in Yountville
  • Special holiday pies from Duarte’s and Emporio Rulli
  • Jones holiday sodas

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Poor scores for instant gravy mixes, Campbell’s wins.

Turkey Survival Page

Recipes:

Chronicle Classic: Best Way Brined Turkey

Gravy for Brined Turkey

Turkey Survival - Holiday Hotlines

Restaurants for Thanksgiving Dinner

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

La Provence brings Mediterranean to the Mission

More Restaurant Openings

  • Bar Tartine, on Valencia
  • Fior d’Italia opens in its new location
  • Ottimista Enoteca-Café, on Union Street

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

“Simple Soirees; Seasonal Menus for Sensational Dinner Parties”, Peggy Knickerbocker

Recipe:

Orange Carpaccio

Letters to Food

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 30, 2005

Contemporary Kitsch, Amanda Berne

Chefs’ trendy takes on retro favorites inspire a holiday cocktail party

Recipes:

Smoked Trout Deviled Eggs

Caramel Apples

Truffled Cheese Mini Burgers

Goat Cheese Fondue

Lobster Corn Dogs with Mustard Sauce

Grilled Cheese Sandwiches with Tomato ‘Soup’ Dip

Pink Peppercorn Caramel Corn

Limoncello Cooler

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Changes at Belden Place . . . controversial chef Daniel Patterson plans to open a new restaurant “Coi” in North beach in January . . . slow weeknight business is blamed for some restaurant closures . . . and more.

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Recipe:

Chestnut Souffle

Tips on using fresh chestnuts

What’s New:

  • UC Berkeley project records an oral history of California food and wine, now on the web
  • Patxi’s Chicago style pizza has a new location in San Francisco
  • Sugar plums from Morgan Hill
  • Betty Cocker goes bilingual with a new cookbook “Cocina Betty Crocker”, which includes recipes in both English and Spanish
  • Winter citrus, Brussels sprouts and greens are in the markets now
  • Updated coffee cones from Melitta
  • Whole Foods introduces a new line of gluten free products

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Balsamic vinaigrette, Girard’s wins, Safeway Select is second.

The Baker, Flo Braker

Pumpkin transforms cream puffs

Recipe:

Pumpkin Profiteroles with Caramel Sauce

The Working Cook, Beth Budra

Recipes:

Orecchiette with Sausage, Olives, Sun-Dried Tomatoes & Pine Nuts

Roasted Fish Fillets with Sautéed Escarole

The Exchange, Karola Saekel

Readers suggested several sources for Danish berry pudding mix and a recipe for making it from scratch. There are new requests for homemade nutrition bars, macaroni and cheese from the Soho Grand Restaurant in New York City, corn and green onion pancakes from O Chame in Berkeley, and sauerbraten from “Amy Vanderbilt’s Cookbook”.

Recipe:

Danish Fruit Juice Pudding (Rod Grod)

Capsule Restaurant Reviews:

  • Tamarindo Antojeria Mexicana in Oakland
  • Talk of Broadway, for breakfast, in Redwood City

Letters to Food

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, December 7, 2005

Grand Finales, Flo Braker

Dazzle guests with a bevy of divine desserts

Recipes:

Brown Butter Pear Tart with Anise Seeds

Chocolate Walnut Torte

Savarin au Rhum with Roasted Pineapple

Neapolitan Bars

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

New tea shop opens in Hayes Valley . . . The Baltic Restaurant in Point Richmond will reopen with new owners . . . and more.

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

If life’s got you down go to Umbria

Recipe:

Lentils with Sausage

What’s New:

  • New book “Confessions of a French Baker”, by Peter Mayle
  • Restaurant openings: Lure for seafood in San Mateo
  • Les Amis, comtemporary French in the Financial District
  • Sodini’s Bertolucci’s Restaurant, this classic re-opens In South San Francisco after a remodel and a new owner

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Andronico’s smoked turkey is voted the best.

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Powell’s Place, offers soul food and Cajun in a new location in the Western Addition.

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Shortcuts to a Latino Christmas

Recipes:

Tortilla Empanadas with Chilean Picadillo

Rice Pudding Tortilla Empanadas

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, December 16th 2005

A supper soiree, Georgeanne Brennan

The table glitters in the reflected candlelight, with sparkling shafts of light from glasses, silver and soft backgrounds of flowers infusing the scene.

Recipes:

Belgian Endive Tipped with Creme Fraiche, Green Peppercorns & Salmon Roe

Mushrooms Stuffed with Prosciutto

Toasts of Roasted Red Peppers & Italian Tuna

Dungeness Crab Bisque with Crab Croutons

Arugula & Frisee Salad with Pomegranate Vinaigrette & Feta Cheese

Game Hens Glazed with Lavender Honey

Sauteed Apples & Onions

Sauteed Spinach

Bosc Pears Poached in Late Harvest Viognier with Chocolate Truffles

Seasonal Cook: Come winter, chefs warm up to broccoli rabe Secrets of broccoli rabe, Rachel Marshall

Recipe:

Broccoli Rabe with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Oricchiette

The Inside Scoop: Humm, Ormsby take flight, GraceAnn Walden

Daniel Humm will leave Campton Place after service on New Year's Eve for a job in New York, NY...James Ormsby retired as executive chef of Plump Jack properties...Miss Millie's moving to Rockridge...Alessandro Cartumini, from the Four Seasons in Scottsdale has been chosen as chef for the Four Seasons Hotel Silicon Valley opening in 2006...Johnny Alamilla's Sol y Lago opens in Tahoe City...

What’s New:

* Dosa, specializing in the food of South India, opened last week on Valencia in the Mission.

* Good Frikkin' Chicken has opened its expanded dining room

* Pacific Northwest oysters straight from the source

Taster’s Choice: Whole Foods crab cakes best of lackluster lot, Carol Ness

The Exchange: Memories of Grandma's Milnot cheesecake still linger, Karola Saekel

Recipes:

No-Bake Cheesecake

Souffled Cheesecake

The Working Cook: Quick, satisfying one-dish meal starts with rice noodles, Beth Budra

Recipes:

Rice Noodles with Chicken & Oyster Sauce

Mustard-Crusted Pork Tenderloin with Apple-Endive Salad

East to West: Whip up some Japanese party mix to start year off right, Linda Furiya

Recipes:

Japanese Rice Cracker Party Mix

Soy Baked Rice Crackers

Sesame-Ginger Crusted Cashews

Candied Dried Sardines

Cook’s Books: Boulevard recipes take time but are worth the effort, Amanda Berne

Recipe:

Endive and Heirloom Apple Salad

Letters to Food

fixed spelling

Edited by eje (log)

---

Erik Ellestad

If the ocean was whiskey and I was a duck...

Bernal Heights, SF, CA

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, December 21, 2005

A Crossover Holiday Tradition, Janet Fletcher

Homey braised brisket suits celebratory get-togethers

Recipes:

Brisket with Portobello Mushrooms & Dried Cranberries

The Pasta Shop's Braised Brisket

Bollito Misto with Salsa Verde

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Town Hall team to open new restaurant . . . Stone to leave Rubicon . . . restaurant openings . . . Jacques Pepin's 70th birthday party in Napa . . . and more.

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Hurray for a world filled with festivities . . . Marlena loves to celebrate all of the holidays.

Recipes:

Latkes

Cranberry Applesauce

What’s New:

  • Zagora, new Moroccan restaurant opens on Guerrero
  • The Creole Acadian Delight Bakery is not able to produce their famous fruitcakes this year due to hurricane damage
  • Blossoming tea flowers
  • Latkes to-go and chunky applesauce

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Pannettones from Maina and Trader Joe's get good marks

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

Classic cookbooks make appetizing last-minute gifts. There are short reviews of the following books:

  • "The New American Cooking", Joan Nathan
  • "Emeril's Delmonico", Emeril Lagasse
  • "How to Cook Italizn", Guiliano Hazan
  • "La Bonne Cuisine", Madame E. Saint-Ange, translated by Paul Aratow
  • "Mastering the Art of French Cooking – the 40th Anniversary Edition", Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck
  • "Artisan Baking", Maggie Glezer
  • "The Complete Idiot's Guide to Feeding Your Baby & Toddler", Elizabeth M. Ward

Recipes:

Roasted Beet Salad with Cumin & Parsley, from "The New American Cooking"

Fettuccine with Walnut Pesto, from "How to Cook Italian"

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Gyro Kebab in the Tenderloin

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

California chili and cornbread fill up hungry houseguests

Recipes:

California Chicken Chili

Caribbean Cornbread

Correction: Danish Fruit Juice Pudding (Rod Grod) from November 30th

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Hot Pot Heaven, Olivia Wu

The Chinese meal-in-a-pot is a great way to bring friends and family to the table for the new year.

Recipes:

Hot Pot (Huoguo)

Simple Hot Pot Sauce

Rich Hot Pot Sauce

Hot pot ingredients, Rachel Marshall

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Only five products made it into the Hall of Fame in 2005. Products must score 80 or above on the tasting panel’s 100 point scale: The winners were:

  • La Tourangelle Walnut Oil (89 points, see the Seasonal Cook article below)
  • Tinkyada Pasta Joy Brown Rice Pasta (83 points)
  • Whole Food 365 Organic whole wheat pasta (83 points)
  • Starbucks Classic Coffee ice cream (83 points)
  • Lappert’s Kona Coffee ice cream (81 points)

Seasonal Cook, Georgeanne Brennan

Walnut oil has French pedigree, but is produced locally.

Recipes:

Warm Chanterelle & Goat Cheese Salad with Walnuts and Walnut Oil

Duck Confit with Brussels Sprouts

Walnut Mashed Potatoes with Crispy Prosciutto & Arugula

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Staff changes at Chez Panisse . . . Desiree Café to closed . . . and more.

What’s New:

  • Elite Café reopens
  • Di Miel, single flower honey from the Yucatan
  • Gangi Dante organic, dried oregano from Sicily
  • Kimchi as a cure for avian flu in chickens
  • Olio nuovo, fresh pressed olive oil is in the markets
  • Mandarin oranges and avocados are in season now

Cook’s Books, Rachel Marshall

“Slow-Cooked Comfort: Soul-Satisfying Stews, Casseroles, and Braises for Every Season”, Lydie Marshall

Recipe:

Chicken Braised in Soy Sauce

The Working Cook, Ethel Brennan

Small kitchens mean simple weeknight dinners

Recipes:

Moroccan-Style Roasted Lamb Top Sirloin Strips & Cucumber Salad

Pan-Roasted Halibut with Almond Crust

The Exchange, Karola Saekel

New requests: Mogul Salad from the old Taj of India restaurant, minestrone from Mike’s Pool Hall, iced burnt sugar cake and Sultanas, a hard-textured filled raisin bar.

Recipe:

Amy Vanderbilt’s Sauerbraten

Capsule Restaurant Reviews

  • Uzen, Japanese cuisine in the Rockridge neighborhood
  • Basil Leaf Café in Daville
  • General Café, California and Vietnamese cuisine in Napa

Dine About Town deals to start in January

Dine About Town

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, January 04, 2006

The Power of Super Foods, Carol Ness

These 10 top nutritional performers can transform your diet – and possibly your life

It's come to this again: A New Year and a wincingly honest appraisal in front of the mirror. And even if the scale doesn't show it, January can make the excesses of the last few weeks -- OK, months -- feel like armies of fat globules occupying your body.

What's the get-healthy, get-thin new you to do, especially now that low-carb is over?

Don't despair. This year's version of New Year's salvation lies in the concept of "superfoods" -- the current darlings of healthy-eating bestsellerdom. It's eating lots of blueberries and avocado, spinach and, yes, dark chocolate, although not necessarily on the same plate.

New labels to cover trans-fat amounts, allergens, Carol Ness

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Superfoods to the rescue

Recipes:

Avocado & Lightly Seared Tuna

Spanakoriso

Egyptian-Inspired Cinnamon-Garlic-Walnut Chicken Thighs

Vietnamese-Style Spicy Dipping Sauce with Apple & Carrot

Spinach Raita

Fettuccine with Pinquitos, Squash & Sage

Cranberry-Blueberry Sauce/Compote/Granita

What’s New:

  • Nairn’s Organic Oat Cade Crackers from Scotland
  • New gadgets from Zyliss
  • Exotic chocolates
  • Lundberg Farms rice chips

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Canned split pea soup, Progresso is the winner

The Inside Scoop, Amanda Berne

Amanda Berne is taking over the Inside Scoop column . . . restaurant changes at the Jewish Community Center . . changes for the Plumpjack Group . . . and a Japanese dessert café chain opens a location in San Francisco.

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Neighborhood dining at a leisurely pace, Chez Maman in Bernal Heights

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, January 11, 2006

The King of Cookware, Olivia Wu

Stanley Cheng has built a global empire on gourmet pots (Anolon, Circulon and many other lines). Now he’s turning his focus to conquering wine.

Seasonal Cook, Beth Budra

Cooked lettuce becomes a hot topic.

Recipe:

Stir-Fried Garlic Lettuce

The Inside Scoop, Amanda Berne

Chefs leaving the Bay Area . . . Budo restaurant in Napa to be revamped . . . new chef, Peter Rudolph at Campton Place . . . two new Italian restaurants to open on the Peninsula . . . and more.

Tahoe lodges freshen up their ski fare, Melissa Wagenberg

What’s New:

  • Odwalla PomaGrand and Naked Pomagranate juices
  • Belden Taverna features food from the southern Mediterranean
  • Stixx salad spinner, stays put
  • Strawberries from southern California, local chanterelles are in the market, but the heavy rains have been bad for citrus.

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Plain instant oatmeal is tested and Albertson’s is the clear winner.

The Exchange, Karola Saekel

Soup revives memories of a long-gone North Beach hangout. New requests are for Stickney’s barbecue sauce, Santini’s pizza (both from the Peninsula), peanut dressing for Asian noodle salad.

Recipe:

Mike’s Pool Hall Minestrone

The Working Cook, Amanda Gold

Quick and easy dishes cater to adults and kids alike

Recipes:

Cranberry-Soy Chicken Strips

Honey-Currant Lamb Chops

Dining Out, Karola Saekel

La Note Restaurant Provence in Berkeley

Dining Out Changes

With today's issue, the Food section is expanding the scope and frequency of restaurant reviews.

The Wednesday reviews will now cover restaurants throughout the Bay Area and will be published each week.

Michael Bauer's restaurant reviews will continue to appear each Sunday in The Chronicle Magazine, and weekly updates of previously reviewed restaurants can be found each Friday in Datebook.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, January 18, 2006

Fowl Play, Olivia Wu

How to bring out the best in America’s favorite meat

Chef Paul Canales of Oliveto shares recipes from his special poultry themed menu.

Recipes:

Basic Poultry Sugo

Cabbage Rolls with Turkey Stuffing & Pevra Sauce

Roast Hen

Barbera-Braised Young Hen

Chicken Meatballs with Pasta

East to West, Mai Pham

A basic lesson from Bangkok

Recipes:

Chile Jam (Nam Prik Pao)

Spicy Peanut Sauce with Chile Jan (Nam Jim Satay)

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Katz’s pastrami is love at first bite

Recipes:

New York Egg Cream

Kasha, Onions & Mushrooms

Parsley-Tarragon Mustard

What’s New:

  • Prime on the Avenue, new steak house in Burlingame
  • Spicy trend in snack food
  • Baking mixes for home baked energy bars
  • El Huarache Loco at the Alemany farmers’ market

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Whole Foods 365 light brown sugar is a winner.

Dining Out, Amanda Gold

Sauce restaurant in Hayes Valley

The Inside Scoop, Amanda Berne

Cetrella owner to open Sam’s Chowder House, coastide near Half Moon Bay . . . Spanish Table opens another store in Mill Valley . . . Café Gratitude will open another location in Berkeley . . . and more.

Cook’s Books, Bianca Antonacci

“The Herbal Kitchen: Cooking with Fragrance and Flavor”, Jerry Traunfeld, executive chef at the Herbfarm restaurant in Seattle.

Recipes:

Slow-Roasted Salmon with Spring Herb Sauce

Roasted Cauliflower with Apple & Dill

Benefits

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, January 25, 2006

The Comida Corridor, Carol Ness

Oakland’s International Boulevard is known for its taco trucks, but also boasts plenty of places to find down-home Mexican food

Queen of the Tamales, Carol Ness

The Inside Scoop, Amanda Berne

Debate over corkage policies at local restaurants . . . new pizzeria to open on Polk Street, open late . . . SF restaurant changes . . . and more.

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Chinese New Year is all about tradition

Recipe:

Shanghainese Winter Bamboo Shoots

What’s New:

  • From the Fancy Food Show: Spain and Australia produce lots of favorites
  • Also chocolates, salsa, gourmet salt
  • Man Kind Tea from Republic of Tea
  • Pork sausages from Niman Ranch
  • Bundt cake mixes from Nordicware
  • Trout caviar from Idaho

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Vitasoy tops lineup of boxed soy milks

The Working Cook, Beth Budra

From Poland, with love and sour cream

Recipes:

Kielbasa with Cabbage in Sour Cream & Pickled Beets

Meatless “Chicken” Patties with Mushrooms & Parsnips

Dining Out, Mandy Erickson

Kitchen & Cocktails at the Half Moon Bay Inn offers choices for everyone, vegans and meat lovers alike.

Letters to Food

More letters

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Magazine for Sunday, January 29th 2006

RISING STARS 2006, Michael Bauer

To get a glimmer of the future of the fine-dining scene, simply read the accompanying profiles of The Chronicle's Rising Star chefs.

RISING STARS 2006: Greg Dunmore, Olivia Wu

Restaurant: Ame, San Francisco

Style: Global, inspired by local ingredients

Recipe: Grilled Grouper on a Ragu of Shellfish, Beans & Fennel in Saffron Broth

RISING STARS 2006: Corey Lee, Michael Bauer

Restaurant: The French Laundry, Yountville

Style: French/American

Recipe: Soft-Poached Araucana Hen Egg, Puree of Jerusalem Artichokes, Shaved Black Truffles & "Creme des Topinambours"

RISING STARS 2006: Michelle Mah, Miriam Morgan

Restaurant: Ponzu, San Francisco

Style: California Asian

Recipe: Braised Boneless Sweet Soy Short Ribs

RISING STARS 2006: Mike Yakura, Amanda Berne

Restaurant: Le Colonial

Style: Vietnamese/French

Recipe: Coconut & Brown Sugar Brined Pork Tenderloin with Broken Fried Rice & Pickled Baby Bok Choy

RISING STARS 2006: Charlie Hallowell, Carol Ness

Restaurant: Pizzaiolo

Style: Rustic Italian

Recipe: Ribollita

RISING STARS 2005: Where are they Now?, Amanda Berne

Tailgate Training: The Dutch Goose's new owner on secrets of the trade, Sam Whiting

Interview with Greg Stern, the new owner of The Dutch Goose in Menlo Park.

Raising the Bar With Tequila: A Mexican plaza takes shape inside a SoMa warehouse, Zahid Sardar

A Rhapsody in Redd: Yountville restaurant reveals Richard Reddington's refined artistry, Michael Bauer

3 and 1/2 stars out of 4.

Pluses: Superb food; sleek, refined decor; well-trained servers, and excellent wine list.

Minuses: At peak times, the noise can be intense; waiters can be officious.

---

Erik Ellestad

If the ocean was whiskey and I was a duck...

Bernal Heights, SF, CA

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, February 1, 2006

Close to the bone, Janet Fletcher

Devotees know that bony parts and cuts lend dishes depth, but they can be a hard sell to anyone else.

Recipes:

Roast Marrow Bones & Parsley Salad

Chicken Wings Provencale

Pig's Feet, Chorizo & Chickpea Stew

Mexican Pig's Feet Salad

Cafe Rouge's Short-Rib Borscht

Sardines on Toast

Seafood of the Season, Olivia Wu

Late season may mean spring crab

Recipe:

Silken Crabmeat with Chinese Croutons

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

A date with Greece's cooking diva

Recipes:

Tagliatelle alla Zafferano

Diples

What’s New:

  • Muffins from Bette's Oceanview Diner
  • Ricecakes at McDonald's?
  • Avocados and other Super Bowl snacks
  • Almond Joy and Reese's Dessert Bar mixes

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Campbell's deemed best chicken noodle soup

The Exchange, Karola Saekel

New requests: Mommy Fortuna's vegetarian lasagna, Doro's clam linguine, easy eggplant parmesan.

Recipe:

Sichuan Noodles with Peanut Sauce

The Baker, Flo Braker

Quiche comforts winter palates

Recipe:

Mushroom-Broccolini Quiche with Goat Cheese

The Inside Scoop, Amanda Berne

New soul food spots in SF . . . Mantra to open in Palo Alto . . . Cafe Cacao to renovate . . . new restaurants in Hayes Valley . . . public hearing at City Hall on restaurant worker health care issues . . . and more.

Dining Out, Miriam Morgan

Fior d'Italia now open in its new location on Mason Street.

Benefits

Kitchen tour benefits nursery schools

Nextcourse event features local farmers

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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