Where's the Best Chicken-Fried Steak?

[kellymonaghan]

I know of a number of places famed for having extraordinary barbecue. Ditto for fried chicken. But I realized the other day, that I have no idea where in the world the supposed "best" chicken-fried steak is turned out.

Anyone have an opinion?

[phaelon56]

"best" chicken-fried steak

For me the phrase is an oxymoron but hopefully the many folks who feel differently can offer some insight and suggestions.

[fifi]

First we need a geographic area. Here in Texas you will get many conflicting opinions. We get passionate about our CFS down here in the home of that sublime delicacy.

Hint: Usual sources are mom & pop type places that cook it the traditional way, in a cast iron skillet. Anyone who tries to makes it in a deep fryer should be run out of town on a rail.

[Chris Cognac]

The best I ever had was at a small place in the middle of highway 41a in Clarksville Tn, called the Wagon Wheel cafe. One of those small town southern places with pictures of the customers on the wall. The Chicken fried steak was so thick and crispy yet tender. Served on top was the absolute best white country gravy I have had to this day...Oh yea, it does not get much better than that on a cold morning!

[ludja]

Can't claim it's the best--but twice I have had excellent chicken-fried steak at the Cowgirl Hall of Fame in Santa Fe.

Tender beef with just the right amount of chewiness, crispy outside and excellent cream gravy---tasting of cream! Served with mashed potatoes and collard greeens.

Great relaxed atmosphere at this place also; out on the patio.

Edited February 2, 2004 by ludja (log)

[phaelon56]

Obviously I have never had a properly prepared version of this dish. The few tiems I've tried it the gravy was close to tasteless and the breading was not crispy. Then again.... I'm in the Northeast and we don't know from chicken fried steak (sadly, I actually have to really search just to find good fried chicken).

[dankphishin]

don't know about CFS, but my friend brock used to make a mean chicken-fried venison steak. he'd dip it in egg, and then breadcrumbs with spices in it, and then pan fry it with about a stick of butter. we'd eat this with french fries and even fried morels sometimes. usually very drunk

[Holly Moore]

I've had a few great chicken fried steaks driving about Texas. Seeking out the ultimate Chicken Fried Steak, along with fried chicken and truckstop, is one of my quests when I travel.

But the best I've found so far is here in Philadelphia. Jack McDavid's Down Home Diner in Reading Terminal Market. It's the gravy I remember most. Jack whips up a dang good milk gravy.

[Carolyn Tillie]

I'm one of the West-Coasters who never understood chicken-fried steak.

Then a good friend, who travels all over the country, explained it to me.

If you can see the edge of the plate on any given side, then the steak is no good. It has to be pounded thin and be larger than the plate.

I still don't know - but am slightly more intrigued.

[SobaAddict70]

I too, don't quite get it, and I'm not even a West Coaster.

Isn't the point of steak to taste all that beefy goodness and marbled fat, and just have a meltingly beefy flavor in your mouth? Why would you want to coat it in breading and deep-fry it? I mean, steak isn't chicken. There's no crispy skin and chicken-y lickin' good to gnaw off the bones.

Right?

Help me out here.

Soba

[Holly Moore]

The purpose of the steak is to allow one to rationalize lapping up the equivalent of a bowl full for milk/pan gravy.

[ludja]

I'm one of the West-Coasters who never understood chicken-fried steak.

Then a good friend, who travels all over the country, explained it to me.

If you can see the edge of the plate on any given side, then the steak is no good. It has to be pounded thin and be larger than the plate.

I still don't know - but am slightly more intrigued.

Again, not being an expert (i.e. from Texas ) I do think this is a dish that when done poorly is especially horrible. There is always a slight risk when ordering in a new place--especially the farther the way you are from Texas.

To be honest though, I've seen good versions of this dish all over the west, Nevada, Wyoming, New Mexico and I suspect in CA too--although I haven't found any in the Bay Area.

Some travesties include stringy gristly meat, overcooked and dried out, greasy bread crumb coating, horrible milk or cream gravy that can taste like flour, wallpaper paste, soapy, you name it with no hint of pan drippings. Also horrible is a cold over cooked cutlet with extra thick tasteless gravy.

But when cooked well---it's just a wonderful breaded cutlet (and yes, pounded thin just like wiener schnitzel, scalloppini, etc). The gravy is different than other sauces as described below but again, is excellent when made with the pan drippings and good ingredients.

from click

"Now we get to one of the most important components of this meal -- the gravy. I would consider the gravy as a side dish because it's that significant. You could almost consider it a food group in itself. Of course, when we are talking about gravy, we are talking about cream gravy. The fact that this goes against all the traditions and rules of classic European cuisine is part of what makes it so special. The French would laugh, until they tasted it! It's a rebellious combination that works very well, and part of the reason why the dish is infamous on certain levels. A thick sauce made from pan drippings and a bastardized combination of a volute and béchamel sauce, studded with a ton of black pepper. It's rich, it's creamy and oh so good! The main ingredient that makes this gravy special is the pan drippings. They are all too often forgotten in restaurant versions of this dish. For this meal, we will get it right."

What's not to like?

edited: for at least a few typos

Edited February 2, 2004 by ludja (log)

[Dave the Cook]

The purpose of the steak is to allow one to rationalize lapping up the equivalent of a bowl full for milk/pan gravy.

That's not entirely true, Holly. You also have to have something for all the crispy bits to hang onto.

Really folks, despite its prominence in the name, steak plays a supporting role in the dish.

[ludja]

I too, don't quite get it, and I'm not even a West Coaster.

Isn't the point of steak to taste all that beefy goodness and marbled fat, and just have a meltingly beefy flavor in your mouth? Why would you want to coat it in breading and deep-fry it? I mean, steak isn't chicken. There's no crispy skin and chicken-y lickin' good to gnaw off the bones.

Right?

Help me out here.

Soba

Well, I'm logged on so I'll go out on a limb, not being an expert. I believe it's usually made with a cheaper cut, like cube steak that would not be very tender cooked as a tradtional steak. Instead, you pound it thin and cook very quickly.

Also, as Holly Moore mentioned, it's a vehicle for the wonderful gravy...

[Okbrewer]

In the Oklahoma City area we have many places that claim to have the "best" Chicken fried steak. Unlike others here, I 'get' chicken fried steak and enjoy eating it often. Some of my favorite places to go are Don's Alley (formerly Don's Drive In) on SE 29th Street in Del City, Jimmy's Round Up Cafe on NW 10th in OKC, and Ann's Chicken Fry House on NW39th Expwy (old Route 66!) in Bethany.

All have similar yet different recipes and all include creamy white gravy and either home fires, french fries or mashed taters! Sides include green beans, brown beans or corn, and most places serve a big dinner roll or corn bread! MMM! mmm! I'm getting hungry just thinking about it!

[fifi]

Dave has nailed it. If the crust isn't right and the gravy isn't right, the steak could be the finest cut and it would be horrible. In fact, the worst CFS I have ever had was at an upscale restaurant here in Houston. They tried to use sirloin and didn't whack it enough. The crust was all bread crumby and greasy. The gravy was bland. ICK! The usual cut is round steak, pounded thin.

I can imagine that Jack McDavid would make a mean CFS. That guy seems to understand our Southern cuisine. I miss seeing him on TV, even if he was paired with McFlay. He outcooked Bobby every time as far as I was concerned.

Soba... CFS has NOTHING to do with anyone's concept of a steak. It is a whole 'nother thing.

[SobaAddict70]

Reading that web site is making me hungry. heheh.

Ok, well I've had wiener schnitzel. That, I get. If y'all can recommend a good place in NYC that serves a passable version of CFS, I'm definitely in.

Soba

[ludja]

Reading all I've posted... have to admit I've only been fortunate to eat some very good CFS (and bad, hint don't ever give in to late night muchies and order a CFS at a Denny's). That is, I've never cooked one myself.

Don't know if it should be a different topic, but does anyone know what cut of beef is good to use as a starting point? Fifi or anyone else?

[Holly Moore]

I can imagine that Jack McDavid would make a mean CFS. That guy seems to understand our Southern cuisine.

Jack's from the hills of Southern VA on the TN boarder which is probably why he understands Southern cuisine so well - though he'd probably say cookin' instead of cusine. He grew up on it.

I miss seeing him on TV, even if he was paired with McFlay. He outcooked Bobby every time as far as I was concerned.

Suspect Jack agrees with you.

[bleachboy]

Goodson's Cafe (Tomball, TX) used to be the gold standard for chicken fried steak in my book. In recent years, though, the quality has declined significantly. That said, I still haven't tasted a better chicken fried steak anywhere else.

Since Chris Cognac mentioned a place only an hour or so away from me, though, I may just try out the Wagon Wheel Cafe next weekend. This weekend I'll be in Memphis -- mmmm, ribs.

Here's another point for debate -- a fairly hot debate among Texans, anyway -- gravy on the top on on the side? I prefer it on the side, so that it doesn't sog up the steak before it hits my table. And of course a great gravy makes a terrific dipping sauce for your french fries, rolls, etc.

[Dave the Cook]

The gravy's prettier on the top, but more practical, and ultimately more satisfying, on the side.

[slkinsey]

Now that my grandmother, after 97 years of exemplary chicken fried steak cookery in Texas, has gone to her great reward... I just don't know when I'll ever find another example that measures up.

I am quite sure I've never had it in a restaurant, ever.

[fifi]

Gravy definitely on the side. And definitely dip the fried potaoes and the biscuits in it. Though I usually prefer mashed potatoes.

I don't do CFS at home. It is entirely too much trouble. Oh... I have done it and it was good. You use round steak, cut about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Whack the hell out of it with one of those tenderizing mallets. Now is where recipes start to diverge, the crust. I like the classic. That is, just like chicken, I soak the steak in well seasoned buttermilk. Then I dredge it in well seasoned flour. (They didn't have bread crumbs on the ranch or in the chuckwagon.) Some folks include some baking powder in the flour. This is best done in a big brown paper grocery bag, drop it in and shake it around. For some reason it seems to make a difference. The steak is then fried in about an inch or more of Crisco in an iron skillet. Milk gravy is made with the "drippings".

[bleachboy]

Probably heresy here on eGullet, but I usually dredge the soaked steaks in half flour and half Bisquick, which seems to make a crumblier crust. Fifi, is that the same thing baking powder would do?

[fifi]

Yeah... Bisquick would work. I have done that with chicken.