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Who makes the city's best confit de canard?


carswell

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Located on the corner of St. Paul West and St. Pierre in Old Montreal, Marché de la Villette is a sweet little store with odd business hours (they close at 4 p.m. on weekdays). On a frigid Saturday afternoon, I was greeted with a "bonjour" and smiles as soon as I set foot in the shop. It's a cosy space: a counter and an open refrigerator case with assorted drinks and a few fruits and vegetables on the left; a long glassed-in refrigerator case on the right; a small glass-fronted freezer with an assortment of prepared dishes at the back; and a few café tables and chairs in the middle and behind the front window. Although it bills itself as a boucherie, the selection of raw flesh is limited. They do have an impressive display of charcuteries, however. The confit duck legs were unpackaged, each covered with a thick coat of fat and sprinkled with pink peppercorns. They retail for just under $8 apiece.

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In more ways than one, the confit from Anjou-Québec is in a league of its own. First, there's the shock-inducing sticker: $11.25 a leg, probably the highest in the city. But what price uniqueness? Forget the styrofoam trays and cryovac plastic found everywhere else. Here two tens and change gets you a one-quart wide-mouth mason jar with two legs, a garlic clove, a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, some peppercorns and a prodigious amount of duck fat. While they may not follow the Larousse Gastro recipe to the letter, this looks to be the real thing.

After struggling to extract the legs from the fat, I gave up and read the instructions: "Warm the jar in a hot-water bath, then transfer its contents to a baking dish. Heat 20 minutes in a 325ºF oven. Recover the duck fat and use it to sauté potatoes." The first thing you notice once the legs are freed is that the bottom half of the drumstick bone, the "handle," has been knocked off, so they'll fit in the jar I guess.

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I warmed the Anjou and Villette legs on separate dishes and plated them alongside a bacon-flecked purée of coco beans. I began with the Anjou. The skin had browned but not crisped and wasn't particularly tasty; as I was about to learn, this confit was about meat, not skin. Although the meat on the outside of the thigh was a bit stringy, the rest was succulent, with a silky texture due, I suppose, to its embalming in fat. In fact, the taste of fat was an obvious component of the subtle, rich flavour. All in all, pretty impressive.

The Viellette duck leg was bigger. Its skin – golden, crisp around the edges and a bit soggy elsewhere – was salty and otherwise unremarkable. The meat was dark, moist, duckish and imbued with a "green" flavour that I rightly or wrongly attribute to the mix and quanity of herbs they used. Not unpleasant, just a bit disconcerting. If I lived in the neighbourhood, I'd be happy buying this but it's not something I'll go out of my way for. For her part, my dining companion liked both products but preferred the texture of the Villettte leg.

By the way, the cost of the Anjou legs is partly mitigated by the cup and a half of renderd duck fat – around $5's worth – left over.

With the duck, we drank a 1995 Madiran, Montus, Cuvée prestige. I'm increasingly convinced that, although a good Madiran can age for ten years or longer, it peaks at around five or six, at which point the tannins have softened but the fruit is still vibrant. That was the case here: a wall of sweet plum and chocolate giving way to a grippy finish. Dense, broad, long, this is a complete wine but overkill for a simple dish like confit and probably better saved for fancier fare like grilled duck breast. The 1999 currently on sale at the SAQ is similar to what the '95 was like four or five years ago and, at $40 a bottle, is reasonably priced for a top French wine at a time when many Côtes-du-Rhônes are pushing the $30 mark and equivalent Médocs are on the far side of $100.

Anjou-Québec, 1025 Laurier West, 514 272-4065

Marché de la Villette, 324 St. Paul West, 514 807-8084

Edited by carswell (log)
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Hey carswell, thanks for another great report!

Anjou Quebec is a wonderful store, which used to be better back in Mr. Pastri's (sp?) day. When they started vacuum packing the cheese I started to worry. BUT if you're willing to spend the money, you'll find some real gems in the butcher counter. They also used to have incredible pastries. But now the pastires are really quite poor and limited in selection. Anyway, glad to hear the confit is a hit. Have you ever tried their cassoulet?

As for Vilette, it might be worth talking to the owner about his confit recipe. Maybe the "green" comment would be helpful to him. French chefs will never admit they did something wrong. But secretly, I'll bet he'll adjust the flavourings. :wink:

Again thanks for the report, and the fun thread. :smile:

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Carswell, A Belanger are the folks who I mentionned (across from 2 freres) they are my main butcher, I used to go to 2 freres for the ham but now A Belanger has Natural Ham that is quite nice. Half of their offering is from free run, certifed organic animals. Do you know if it was the case for your duck?

ID, the bio butcher I thought you were referring to is Saint-Vincent (hope I'm remembering that correctly). Anyhoo, the guys at A. Bélanger et fils say the legs in their confit are from barbary ducks purchased from a non-organic farm in St-Apollinaire.

Anjou Quebec is a wonderful store, which used to be better back in Mr. Pastri's (sp?) day. When they started vacuum packing the cheese I started to worry. BUT if you're willing to spend the money, you'll find some real gems in the butcher counter. They also used to have incredible pastries. But now the pastires are really quite poor and limited in selection. Anyway, glad to hear the confit is a hit. Have you ever tried their cassoulet?

As for Vilette, it might be worth talking to the owner about his confit recipe. Maybe the "green" comment would be helpful to him. French chefs will never admit they did something wrong. But secretly, I'll bet he'll adjust the flavourings.

Anjou-Québec remains the best French butcher in town but nearly everything else they sell has gone downhill since M. Pastrie left this vale of tears. The cheese, yes, and the pastries (you're right that they used to be fabulous, as I found out once when, in desperation, I bought a tarte Tatin for a fancy dinner I was making and it ended up stealing the show). They're even cryovacing the mesclun now. And they're if anything snobbier than ever. Do you find they seem less busy than they were in the glory days?

The flavour of Marché de la Villette's duck confit was in no way objectionable, just unusual, and was probably accentuated by being tasted alongside Anjou-Québec's authentically austere product. As I said, I'm sure I'd buy it regularly if I lived in the neighbourhood. But, based on my investigations to date, if you're going to go out of your way for a modern style confit, I think you're best heading for A. Bélanger et fils in the Atwater Market.

I find the confit at La Maison du rôti, on Mont-Royal Est (at 1969 I think) very good. And more reasonnably priced than in Outremont.
Thanks for the input, Robert. La Maison du rôti is on my Plateau shortlist. Will probably get around to it in a week or two.
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The duck confit pruchased at Boucherie Viau in the Atwater Market differs from the others discussed to date in that it wasn't prepared by the retailier but came prepackaged from Élèvages Périgord, the Montérégie poultry producer known mainly for its foie gras. Price: $5.50 a small leg. Best-before date: April 28.

One thing was obvious on removing the leg from its packaging: there's cryovacing and then there's cryovacing. The plastic on this baby hugged ti-ight. In fact, it required a certain effort to peel back the plastic, and, once freed, the leg kept its vacuum-packed shape, even down to creases in the skin. Speaking of the skin, it had a leathery texture and colour that reminded me of nothing so much as that of the formaldehyded fetal pig I once dissected in university. During its 15 minutes of flame, the leg gave off next to no fat, maybe a quarter teaspoon's worth. The skin browned but didn't look particularly appetizing, especially with that crease running down the middle. Not surpisingly, it had very little subcutaneous fat. It was also tasteless. For its part, the meat was dry, tough and salty with an almost brined flavour, more ham than duck. And, while it wasn't inedibile, if some duck confit virgin had the misfortune to be served this, he or she would wonder what the fuss was about. The low point in my survey so far.

The meal was saved from being a total disaster by a near disaster. I'd intended to serve the duck with jerusalem artichokes sautéed in olive oil with garlic and parsley. Instead of following the tradtional approach of blanching the 'chokes in boiling water, I decided to try steaming them peeled. Alas, after 10 minutes of steaming, they went – in a minute or two – from undercooked to burst. Since the duck was in the oven, there wasn't time to make another dish. So I pulled out the food mill (next time I'll try a stick blender), pureed the 'chokes into the top of a double boiler, added salt and a splash of heavy cream and, just before serving, aromatized them with a drizzle of white truffle oil. Amazingly good.

I poured a 2001 Gaillac, Peyrouzelles, Domaine de la Causse Marine ($17 at the SAQ). Now, this was fun. A burst of pure raspberry and plum, sweet on entry, sourish on exit; light to medium body; enough acid to keep things lively; light, raspy tannins. Nothing profound but outgoing and refreshing, which makes it a perfect wine for confit or cassoulet.

Élèvages Périgord 1993 inc., 288 Principale, St-Louis de Gonzague, Quebec J0S 1T0, 450 377-8766

Edited by carswell (log)
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And they're if anything snobbier than ever. Do you find they seem less busy than they were in the glory days?

Yes, Jesus they're snobby -- off-puttingly so. I also find the store isn't all that clean anymore. It looks run down. Nothing compared the the French traiteur I remeber from Pastrie's day. And many of the good butchers have gone.

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Le Maître Gourmet is a pleasant, cram-packed shop on the corner of Laurier East and Fabre. Refrigerators along the right wall and two floor units in the centre are filled with prepared dishes. A couple of display cases at the back hold a variety of French-cut meats and charcuteries. Shelving with some unusual Savoyard pasta and other gourmet products occupies the little remaining space.

Made and cryovaced on site, the duck confit runs $6.99 a smallish leg. The requisite 20 minutes in a hot oven rendered very little fat. The skin didn' t crisp at all; in fact, it was rubbery and not particularly appetizing, and when I peeled it from the leg the fat stayed attached to the meat, a first for me. The meat was very firm, drier than I like and salty. The flavour was good, savoury if salty, ducky but with a hint of liver/game. Did I mention the salt? Wine was useless; it took two glasses of water to slake my thirst.

· · · · ·

In the running for the city's top charcuterie, La Queue de Cochon has two branches. I went to the one on Laurier East in the large space it shares with bakery Le Fromentier and cheese retailer Maître Corbeau. Any one of the stores would be worth the detour; that you can hit all three in one fell swoop makes the place a gourmet destination.

LQDC's duck confit comes cryovaced with sliced potatoes or without. I chose the latter option, which retails for $21.95/kg. My package weighed 368 g and cost $8.08. It contained two very small legs and a quantity of duck fat. Ingredients listed as duck, salt, pepper, duck fat and ­– surprise! –­ sugar. Best-before date: February 27. The sojourn in the hot oven rendered about 1/3 cup of clear duck fat, which produced plenty of sizzles and filled the kitchen with a delicious aroma. The leg's flavour was pleasing if a bit bland. Search for it and you can just taste the sugar. Texturally speaking, one leg was succulent, the other stringy. The skin was limp and not very flavourful. In short, good if not exactly earth-shaking. Would be a fine addition to a cassoulet, though.

· · · · ·

Our side was one of the traditional accompaniments to confit, pommes de terre à la sarladaise. Peel, thinly slice, rinse and dry potatoes. Sauté in duck fat over medium heat. When done, toss in the pan with chopped parsley and minced garlic. Cover and allow to sweat for 5 minutes. If you start the potatoes just before you put the duck in the oven, they'll be done at the same time. A treat anytime, these went beautifully with the confit.

We drank a 2001 Côtes du Frontonnais, Les Hauts de Montauriol, one of the best $12 wines on offer at the SAQ. Negrette grapes give it an unusual aroma and flavour profile. Had me thinking of lingonberries but there's something dark and wild there, too. Light tannins, acidic bite, sourish finish. It worked well with the duck though a bit more heft wouldn't have been out of place. That you can get in its big brother (Château Montauriol) for $7 more.

Le Maître Gourmet, 1520 Laurier East, 514 524-2044

La Queue de Cochon, 1375 Laurier East, 514 527-2525

Edited by carswell (log)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Forget the minimalist cool of La Queue de Cochon, the bourgeois chic of Le Mâitre Gourmet and the baronial expanse of La Maison du Rôti. Walking into Boucherie Champfleuri is like entering a time warp: the look and feel of the place probably hasn't changed much since the 1970s. It's a narrow, deep space. A refrigerator counter runs nearly the full length of the right wall and a couple of rows of shoulder-high shelving strectch off to infinity. Pressed for time and a bit put off by the dumpiness, I didn't poke around but left with the impression that if parallel lines converge anywhere in the universe, it may well be at the rear of this store.

The glassed-fronted counter contained a large selection of meats, charcuteries, cheese and prepared dishes as well as two types of duck confit. According to the butcher who served me, neither is made by the store and both are excellent. When pressed, he admitted to a preference for the confit made by Les Cochonnailles Chantonnoises, describing it as "un peu plus artisanal." Two smallish legs in a cryovac shell cost $7.99.

During their 20 minutes in the hot oven the legs exuded maybe three tablespoons' worth of fat. The skin didn't crisp or brown. In fact, it looked melted-plasticky. Denuded, the meat wouldn't have won any beauty contests either. While the colour of other legs' meat has ranged from light brown to deep red, this was a pale grey-beige. It looked dry and, under the knife, separated into a mass of strings. It wasn't stringy in the mouth, however, as it presented no resistance to the tooth: texturally a write-off. If you could get past the pasty mouthfeel, the flavour was acceptable though salty. I suspect brining is to blame.

Our side was jerusalem artichokes peeled, blanched, sliced, sautéed with garlic in olive oil and showered with chopped parsley. It went well enough with the duck but the sarladaise potatoes were even better.

The wine, a 1999 Fronsac from Jean-Pierre Moueix, was just the ticket, full of red fruit with a dark, savoury edge and enough tannins to cleanse your palate without stripping off your tooth enamel. Yes, it lacks a strong personality, especially when placed alongside some of the appellation's estate-produced wines. Yet it's more than industrial plonk and I think you'd be hard pressed to find a purer expression of merlot for $17. Supplies of the 1999 are dwindling. The 2000 should be arriving soon and, in an excellent vintage, should provide excellent QPR.

Boucherie Champfleuri, 1577 Mont-Royal East, 514 529-0314

Edited by carswell (log)
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I got two legs form Belanger waiting for this week. Will probably serve with some coral lentils. The confit are made by one of the sons of the place. Will report for any discreptencies.

Are coral lentils the tiny orange-pink ones used in Indian cooking? How do you prepare them? Whenever I've cooked with them, they've disintegrated after a few minutes' cooking, so I tend to think of them as soup lentils.

Anyway, feel free to report back any concurrence as well as any divergence. As with any sampling, the more input, the more accurate the results.

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carswell, you are correct. The coral lentils where on the shopping list but it would be redundant to use them the way we do, which is as a fried vegetable cake over a bed of arugula. It would be redundant to have a lightly fired ball with confit. Therefore, I check out something else. These days we puree a lot for one of the kid, a nice little celeriac puree with drops of ahzelnut oil should do, we'll have to make a last minute decision with the amount of duck fat rendered, none of it will be loss...

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These days we puree a lot for one of the kid, a nice little celeriac puree with drops of ahzelnut oil should do, we'll have to make a last minute decision with the amount of duck fat rendered, none of it will be loss...

Ha! The side for my most recent CdeC dinner was an adulterated celeriac purée, which I'll detail in my review. Suffice it to say, it was not the marriage made in heaven I was hoping for. The hazelnut oil idea intrigues, however. I started New Year's Eve dinner with a great cream of celeriac soup garnished with prosciutto bits, minced scallion and white truffle oil and have been meaning to adapt the idea to a purée.

You shouldn't expect much recoverable fat from the Bélanger legs, btw. Maybe enough to sauté a couple of grelots in...

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Boucherie de Paris began cryovacing their duck confit only recently; having now compared the B.C. and A.C. versions, I can't say I notice any difference (disclaimer: in this instance the duck had been cryovaced only a day or two before). Two largeish legs and a sizeable chunk of fat will set you back $11.99. Unlike the other legs in this survey, the fat extends as a solid block from either side of the leg, making it easy to break off (leaving some attached, of course), rewrap and stick into the fridge or freezer for future use.

The legs cooked up nicely; a delicous fragrance emanated from the oven. The skin — crisp at the edges, soft in the middle — pulled easily from the meat but, while tasty, didn't qualify as delcious. The meat, mostly brown turning redder toward the bone, was firm and separated not into strings but chunks. In the mouth, it was drier than ideal, exhibiting a definite lack of succlence. The flavour was meaty but not particularly savoury: undersalted and lacking any taste of fat. It is obvious that quality ingredients are used but also that something is amiss in the preparation. Correct mais pas plus.

On paper, the food and wine accompanients seemed like they'd work. I peeled, quartered and blanched a celery root, then puréed it with some olive oil and a tablespoon or so of black olive paste. A certifiably great pairing with firm white fish, the purée did nothing for the confit. Ditto the wine, the 2001 Marcillac "Lo Sang del Païs" from Domaine du Cros, one of my favouite rustic reds from France and at $15.70 a pretty good buy. Although the appellation is located not terribly far to the east of Cahors and the wine is fine with other Southwest classics like toulouse sausages, the lean fruit and light but hard tannins didn't sing with the duck.

At the end of the day, an unexciting meal.

Boucherie de Paris, 5216 Gatineau, 514 731-6615

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Your A Bleanger description was dead on. No need to repeat myslef, the only wish I have is for the skin to be less limpy out of the oven. I'm getting more for the ski trip next week.

Glad you liked it, ID. To crisp the skin, try cranking up the oven a bit -- you can go as high as 400-425ºF. Also, since the Bélanger legs are relatively lean, you can add a bit of duck fat to the pan. If your pan is nonstick, cook the legs skin side down (i.e. in the fat) for the first ten minutes, then skin side up for the remaining ten minutes. If your pan isn't nonstick, baste the legs with melted duck fat twice or three times during cooking (careful, though; the fat splatters).

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Duck confit has been on the menu of Le P'tit Plateau since the popular BYOB opened its doors seven years ago. The legs, from mulard ducks, are meaty and cryovaced with a goodly amount of fat (you'll have around a third of a cup per leg left after cooking; do not throw it out). They are sold by weight ($25.00 a kilo) and the two I purchased averaged 335 g, or $8.40, apiece.

Chef Alain Loivel was quite specific with his cooking instructions: place the legs skin side down on a nonstick baking dish (I used glazed earthenware) and heat 20 minutes in a hot oven, if necessary removing some of the fat halfway through the process. This produced the desired effect: the skin was crackling crisp, a joy to behold and to eat. Unlike most of the products in this survey, the meat was more deep pink than brown. Moist and tender, it fell into chunks, not strings. It tasted of duck, as it should, but also had the savour that speaks of high-quality ingredients, judicious seasoning and knowledgeable preparation. Salt and fat were in perfect balance. In short, it was a thing of beauty. On frôle la perfection. If my quest turns up nothing better, I won't complain.

The Larousse Gastronomique article on confit lists cep mushrooms (porcinis), often prepared à la basquaise, among the traditional accompaniments. Not having any ceps lying around, I roasted a mixture of portabellos, shiitakes and oyster mushrooms with some onion, garlic, olive oil and thyme and decorated the plates with a drizzle of thick veal stock and red wine reduction left over from New Year's. And whaddayaknow, the mushrooms and duck sang in perfect two-part harmony. Visually, the match was less successful: very brown on brown, despite the shower of chopped chives on the fungi.

So many of the red wines of Southwest France go so well with confit because of the contrast: their muscular fruit and tannic force cut through the duck's inherent richness. But what do you do when your guest informs you that she doesn't drink red? You don't play off the richness, you play with it. Since the richest of whites, a really winey Champagne, was out of my price range, I went with a still Alsatian: the 2001 Tokay-Pinot Gris from Léon Beyer ($22.80 at the SAQ). The unctuous texture, honeyed pear flavours and less-than-bone dryness worked with duck and mushrooms and pleased my guest, which was all I could hope for. That said, I found the wine a bit bland and the match a bit cloying. Were I to do it over, I'd be tempted to pull out the stops and look for a top cuvée, the Weinbach Sainte Catherine, say. But even then, I'm sure I'd rather be drinking red.

Le P'tit Plateau, 330 Marie-Anne East (corner of Drolet), 514 282-6342.

(Since it's one of their most popular dishes, the restaurant always has a supply of confit on hand. Sales are at the door, from Tuesday through Saturday, between half past noon or 1 p.m. and closing, around 11 p.m.)

P.S. Thanks, oceanfish!

Edited by carswell (log)
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HA HA ! It was found...

While it's not quite the same as André Philippot's legendary confit, it's worthy of being ranked alongside it. So, yes, the quest was not in vain.

The e-mail you snet me did not make it. I make it you wanted to let me know of this. It's all good, I will stop there before my trip to Charlevoix.

He's a mind-reader!

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I did not have time to run to Petit Plateau but after dinner at PdC, I decided to have 12 "pilon" of confit wrapped up. He also dumped a bucket of veggies, one of fat and one of potatoe puree... His confit is quite sweet, in fact I think there is either honey or maple sugar in it. Oddly enough, Picard suggested simply warm them up by dropping them in a tub of hot water, kosher style ! (but I won't do it)...

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His confit is quite sweet, in fact I think there is either honey or maple sugar in it. Oddly enough, Picard suggested simply warm them up by dropping them in a tub of hot water, kosher style ! (but I won't do it)...

Does not seem appealing!! Saltiness in the flesh and crispiness on the skin is the delight of a good confit. Salty honey stewed duck sounds like a bad Chinese sweet.

Did you notice whether or not the original was dry and stringy?

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Oh the cooking ios perfect, we are talking about one of the best meat chef in Canada. But, of course, Picard has to add his sense of personnality. Big ugly Pilon, perfect soft meat, very tasty. The outside is the only odd part, seems almost like a tastefull wink to the "Buffet chinois du quebec" Le VH sauce ! hahahaha. It's not that sweet. But quite more than I ever tasted.

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Located on Mont-Royal east of Papineau, La Maison du Rôti may be the city’s most physically impressive butcher shop. The large space is dominated by a central ring of refrigerator counters around an island inhabited by a half dozen butchers. The variety of meats and cuts on offer is huge and includes a large selection of horsemeat and such rarities as raw duck legs. Shelving filled with gourmet products like lentils and jams lines the side walls. Two self-serve freezers at the back contain specialty cuts (paper thin slices of meat for fondues, for example) and game and organic meats. An adjacent room, about the same size, has stations for cheese, free-trade coffee and sandwiches and a refrigerator case holding a wide assortment of stocks, prepared dishes and dairy products.

At about the one o’clock position on the ring of butchers’ counters, you’ll find the duck confit along with confit sweetbreads and duck gizzards. The peking duck legs are small, cryovaced with a dab of fat and $4.99 apiece. Ingredients: duck, fat, salt and spices.

Straight from the package, the legs are the palest I’ve seen. Twenty minutes in a 400ºF oven doesn’t darken them beyond ivory/beige and the skin is the farthest thing from crisp: limp, flabby, rubbery — take your choice. The texture is unique: soft, almost meltingly tender. The taste? The legs purchased and consumed last weekend had a very mild, not particularly ducky flavour with a slight brininess and little depth. The leg purchased and consumed in early February along with the offerings from Le Maître Gourmet and La Queue de Cochon was similar but had an odd musty smell and taste that put off me and my guest. Let's assume that sample was botched. The verdict, then? Perfectly edible and certainly inexpensive but hardly the end of the rainbow.

On Saturday we uncorked a 1995 Canon-Fronsac from one of the appellation’s leading estates, Château Grand Renouil, easily the equal of many St-Émilions. A classy if unsmiling wine but a bit highfalutin for confit. In many ways, Moueix’s generic Fronsac, which retails for less than half the price, was the better match.

La Maison du Rôti, 1969 Mont-Royal East, 514 521-2448

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