NYE in NYC

[Dave the Cook]

Dave, I'm sure you'll want to see more of New York than the Upper West Side. If the weather is decent one morning, you should take the 2/3 train downtown to Times Square, and switch there to the N/R, taking it downtown to City Hall. Get off the train, cross City Hall Park, and walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. This is fun for the whole family, and provides a great harbor view. Once on the other side in Brooklyn (4th largest city in America!), get yourself to Old Fulton Street and to Patsy Grimaldi's pizza. This is one of a rival pair of Patsy's; the other Patsy's got to keep the name and franchise itself. This Patsy's may not be the very best brick oven pizza in NYC, but it's a fine example. There's also a good ice cream shop right down by the water, but I don't know if they're open for New Years.

Then you can walk back, or take the subway back to Manhattan, or if you still want to walk you can head up the hill to Brooklyn Heights and go to the Promanade (or Esplanade) and take in another, possibly the most, stunning view of the harbor, the Statue of Liberty, and downtown Manhattan.

If you're interested, Dave, I can give you more detailed directions to any and all of the above.

This sounds terrific, Seth -- especially since brick-oven pizza is definitely on the must-have list. But it brings up one of my concerns: how cold is it going to feel out there on the middle of the bridge the dead of winter?

Isn't there a restaurant right under the bridge on the Manhattan side? How's that?

[picaman]

Isn't there a restaurant right under the bridge on the Manhattan side? How's that?

The bridge to walk across in my opinion (and preferably, back across when you are stuffed...) is the Williamsburg Bridge, because Peter Luger's is on the other side. Not inexpensive by any means, but worth every penny.

On the Manhattan side of the Brooklyn Bridge, you may mean the Bridge Cafe on Water Street. (?) Supposedly the oldest restaurant in Manhattan. I like it a lot, and they have a good selection of single-malt scotches, but it may not be a "destination." Good choice if you are in the area, though.

Jamie

EDIT: grammar

Edited December 16, 2003 by picaman (log)

[bloviatrix]

I don't know if you have plans for saturday night, but the Brooklyn Museum (2 or 3 train to Eastern Parkway/Brooklyn Museum) will be open until 11 that night for First Saturday and admission is free. They have gallery tours, show movies, and even have dancing. It's a lot of fun - we were there two weeks ago, and might go again on the 3rd.

Maybe someone familiar with Brooklyn, can suggest a place to grab dinner.

[ludja]

Locals and others will undoubtedly have other favorites for a Jewish deli--but despite the tourists, I always have to go to Carnegie Deli (On 7th Avenue between 54th and 55th Streets)--not too far from Rockefeller Center.

Personallly I have to get a chopped liver sandwich and/or blintzes... but there is also the cheesecake, matzo ball soup, pastrami, etc.

oops: Rockefeller not Lincoln....

Edited December 17, 2003 by ludja (log)

[elyse]

Dave, I'm sure you'll want to see more of New York than the Upper West Side. If the weather is decent one morning, you should take the 2/3 train downtown to Times Square, and switch there to the N/R, taking it downtown to City Hall. Get off the train, cross City Hall Park, and walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. This is fun for the whole family, and provides a great harbor view. Once on the other side in Brooklyn (4th largest city in America!), get yourself to Old Fulton Street and to Patsy Grimaldi's pizza. This is one of a rival pair of Patsy's; the other Patsy's got to keep the name and franchise itself. This Patsy's may not be the very best brick oven pizza in NYC, but it's a fine example. There's also a good ice cream shop right down by the water, but I don't know if they're open for New Years.

Then you can walk back, or take the subway back to Manhattan, or if you still want to walk you can head up the hill to Brooklyn Heights and go to the Promanade (or Esplanade) and take in another, possibly the most, stunning view of the harbor, the Statue of Liberty, and downtown Manhattan.

If you're interested, Dave, I can give you more detailed directions to any and all of the above.

If you do this, Jacques Torres' place is on the other side of the Brooklyn Bridge. They have amazing spicy hot chocolate.

[SethG]

I wouldn't discourage anyone from walking to Peter Luger, but as a large family outing I think it has its drawbacks.

I think you shouldn't cross any of the bridges in bad weather (i.e., ran or snow, or frigid frigid cold), but if it's reasonably nice the walk will be fun even if it's pretty cold. It's not too much colder or windier on the Brooklyn Bridge than it is on the ground. (Am I wrong about this, people? I don't recall it ever feeling much different.)

And Elyse, how could I have left out Torres' shop? What a great idea.

There are so many other ideas we should be giving Dave here. I'm going to try to come up with a few more.

[Suzanne F]

Seth, you're right about the weather conditions on the BB walkway: no worse that at street level; more sunshine, in fact, and what a view!

As mentioned yesterday on another thread, a walk across the BB is perfect as a prelude to a concert at Bargemusic, just across the pier from River Cafe and the fabulous Ice Cream stand (too bad peaches are out of season; omg omg omg!) Wait, never mind; except for an all-Bach program on NYE, Bargemusic will be dark. However, Noodle Pudding, a terrific Italian restaurant, is right off the bridge on Henry Street (check the thread JJ started about Brooklyn).

[Blondie]

One more quick idea:

A visit to the Lower East Side Tenement Museum

combined with a stop by Gus's Pickles at 85/87 Orchard Street.

Jamie

An absolutely fascinating site, picaman. Thank you.

I was going to recommend the Tenement Museum too, but my "don't miss" recommendation across the street is Il Laboratorio del Gelato. While you're in the neighborhood you could do the cellphone Walking Tour mentioned on another thread (by Bloviatrix, I believe).

'inoteca, on the corner of Ludlow and Rivington a block north of Delancey, is my favorite place in Manhattan for a casual bite, and any Moby fans in your group might like to stop at his tea shop nearby, Teany.

If anyone in the group is interested in design, there are some great shops specializing in mid-century modern (and later) furniture and accessories, like Las Venus (on Ludlow) and Siglo XX.

[bloviatrix]

I was going to recommend the Tenement Museum too, but my "don't miss" recommendation across the street is Il Laboratorio del Gelato. While you're in the neighborhood you could do the cellphone Walking Tour mentioned on another thread (by Bloviatrix, I believe).

Blondie, have you seen that thread? I wanted to provide a link, but either I'm blind or it disappeared. I thought a lot of good suggestions were provided there.

[Blondie]

Blondie, have you seen that thread?  I wanted to provide a link, but either I'm blind or it disappeared.  I thought a lot of good suggestions were provided there.

Found it.

[Dave the Cook]

There are so many other ideas we should be giving Dave here.  I'm going to try to come up with a few more.

Thanks, Seth. It occurred to me that it would probably help if I could tell you what we want to see and visit, and then we could construct a series of half-day walking/eating tours. I'm collecting wish lists now; see the obvious stuff below.

What would be really great is if these could become the basis for a comprehensive eGullet guide to New York. Your scenario plus some other material is a terrific start:

From X, take Y train/from Z take W train/ to City Hall. Get off the train, cross City Hall Park, where you find the entrance to the Brooklyn Bridge. Beneath the bridge is Bridges restaurant, a good choice if you're in the area at mealtime.

Cross the bridge for a great harbor view. . . on the other side in Brooklyn (4th largest city in America!), you'll find in the immediate vicinity:

Patsy Grimaldi's pizza: may not be the very best brick oven pizza in NYC, but it's a fine example.

There's also a good ice cream shop right down by the water.

Jacques Torres' shop is in the area. Make sure you try the amazing spicy hot chocolate.

You get the idea, I'm sure. As people try out the "tours," we can refine and update, but always with a food-centered perspective: the restaurants, the cookware stores, the markets.

Eventually, you guys will never have to do this for a visitor again!

On the list so far, in addition to what's already been mentioned:

Times Square

Rockefeller Center

Empire State Building

MOMA

Central Park/Strawberry Fields

The Dakota

Broadway/theatre district

The Apollo

Statue of Liberty, though actually going to Bedloe Island doesn't seem to be mandatory

Greenwich Village

St Patrick's

Museum of Natural History

FAO Schwartz

There's more to come I'm sure. Thanks, everyone, for helping out.

Edit: the Cellphone Walking Tour looks awesome.

And thanks for the design tips, Blondie.

And the previous thread. I hadn't seen it before; lots of helpful stuff there.

[bloviatrix]

FAO Schwartz might be a problem. They filed for Chapter 11 about 10 days ago. I'm not sure they'll be around post-Christmas.

[Dave the Cook]

FAO Schwartz might be a problem.  They filed for Chapter 11 about 10 days ago.  I'm not sure they'll be around post-Christmas.

I'm sure they'll keep it open if they know we're coming.

Actually, I've already warned the crew of this possibility.

[bloviatrix]

Ok, based on your list of sites, here's the UWS...

You can walk the whole thing, or with subway --

From 66th street station, take 1/9 uptown, one stop to 72nd street. Head east (towards Amsterdam Ave) to Central Park. The Dakota is on the NW corner of CPW and 72nd. Cross the street and into the park. The path will lead you to Strawberry Fields (note: it's not grass, it's asphalt). Walk back to CPW and head north to Museum of Natural History (walk on park side, so you don't have to cross streets, plus, you get a better view of the buildings). After museum walk down 81st street (on corner of 81 and CPW is the Beresford, home of many celebs including Jerry Sienfeld and John McEnroe. Gorgeous apartments, unaffordable to us mere mortals). Zabars is on Bway between 80th and 81st. Make sure to check out both floors at Zabars - second floor is kitchen equipment. Staying on same side of street as Zabars, walk south to Fairway. Walk back to 72nd street subway station and grab downtown train.

Also on UWS, if you have kids with you, - The Manhattan Children's Museum is on 83rd btw Amsterdam and B'way.

[SethG]

Just a few thoughts about the Rockefeller Center area:

Rock Center is a must-see, but you will find it absolutely mobbed around the holidays. You may find it difficult to move on the sidewalk in the immediate area. I say this not to dissuade you from going there, but to warn you to expect madness. If you go there, you should also take a look inside the lobby spaces in the buildings. The Deco-era details are superb throughout the whole complex, and no two lobbies, fountains or statues are alike.

I would be interested to see what other have to say about eating around Rock Center. I always find it difficult to recommend good eating around there. If you venture west to Seventh Avenue, you aren't far from such warhorses as the Canegie and the Stage Delis.

You shouldn't miss the department stores on Fifth. I always send friends to Bergdorf Goodman (across the street from FAO Schwartz), although I've never been able to afford anything they sell there. It represents to me the Platonic ideal of the expensive New York department store. If you haven't been in such a store, you'll be amazed at the prices, the hush that seems to envelop the place, and the patrons. Also great is Takashimaya, a branch of the Japanese department store. This store is filled with beautiful, expensive things. Food angle: they have a nice tea department and offer a high tea service, I believe.

Another food angle: if you're in Rock Center, you should venture over to Madison Avenue, behind St. Patrick's Cathedral. On the next block uptown (I think it is between 50th and 51st on the East side of Madison) is a branch of the Belgian chocolatier Leonidas. They didn't earn a mention in the NY Times piece on chocolates the other week, but they are one of the premier chocolatiers in Belgium, and they are not a mass production outfit like Godiva. Their stuff is made with fresh buttercream and flown over from the continent several times a week. They have a wide variety of choices, and while they are not cheap, they're worth it. Walk in and buy one piece, you'll see what I mean. They now have at least one other branch in Manhattan (downtown, next to 140 Broadway); I don't know if they sell anywhere else in the U.S.

[picaman]

One nice thing about Rock Center: if you go down into the underground concourse from the subway, there are many shops and sandwich/salad/pizza type restaurants. You can grab a quick bite or a cup of coffee and get a table where you can watch the skaters at eye level.

Jamie

[bloviatrix]

You shouldn't miss the department stores on Fifth.  I always send friends to Bergdorf Goodman (across the street from FAO Schwartz), although I've never been able to afford anything they sell there.  It represents to me the Platonic ideal of the expensive New York department store.  If you haven't been in such a store, you'll be amazed at the prices, the hush that seems to envelop the place, and the patrons.

Actually, what few people know is that Bergdorf has an unbelievable sale after Christmas. Trust me, you can do very well (I have a full closet to prove it. ).

On 7, they carry tea from Mariage Freres.

[elyse]

Ok, based on your list of sites, here's the UWS...

You can walk the whole thing, or with subway --

From 66th street station, take 1/9 uptown, one stop to 72nd street. Head east (towards Amsterdam Ave) to Central Park. The Dakota is on the NW corner of CPW and 72nd. Cross the street and into the park. The path will lead you to Strawberry Fields (note: it's not grass, it's asphalt). Walk back to CPW and head north to Museum of Natural History (walk on park side, so you don't have to cross streets, plus, you get a better view of the buildings). After museum walk down 81st street (on corner of 81 and CPW is the Beresford, home of many celebs including Jerry Sienfeld and John McEnroe. Gorgeous apartments, unaffordable to us mere mortals). Zabars is on Bway between 80th and 81st. Make sure to check out both floors at Zabars - second floor is kitchen equipment. Staying on same side of street as Zabars, walk south to Fairway. Walk back to 72nd street subway station and grab downtown train.

Also on UWS, if you have kids with you, - The Manhattan Children's Museum is on 83rd btw Amsterdam and B'way.

I agree. except walk from the hotel to 72nd st on Central Park West. You can see the Ghost Busters building adjacent from Tavern on The Green, and the Dakota etc. is only six blocks from there.

[Rachel Perlow]

I hope Dave took good notes. I'm looking forward to a report about his family's trip to NYC.

[Dave the Cook]

I took no notes. Without written proof, the authorities have nothing . . .

Leaving out the delivery pizza, the Penn Station smoothies and a blow-by-blow comparison of FAO Schwartz and Toys R Us, my NYC food experiences come down to these:

- a guided tour of Arthur Avenue, including: a generous sampling of the notorious Jason Perlow Sangweech; some awesome marscarpone and ridiculously cheap parmesan; and a silly debate over the crunch-to-cream ratio of handmade, hand-filled cannoli.

- a day and a half with a few friends preparing for New Year's Eve: cassoulet (duck confit, lamb shanks, sausage and white beans) from scratch (OK, they had started without me), devilled eggs with goosefat and a duck crackling garnish, slaw, cornbread. True to my adopted South, I made sure I had beans and slaw just after midnight.

- an insanely conceived New Year's Eve trip to Fairway, which I decided was a secret test of my big-city mettle devised by my new York friends.

- drinks in the 7th floor lounge at the Times Square W. Terrible service, especially considering the basic tarriff of $16 per mixed drink. The disappointment was partially offset by a possible sighting of Lea Thompson in the adjacent nook.

- three glorious hot dogs at Gray's Papaya, the midpoint of a Central Park/MNH walking tour.

- being dissed at Carmine's (UWS) for having the temerity to show up at a self-styled family restaurant with a family.

- a very nice dinner at Nick's Mediterrean Grill.

- excellent pastrami on rye at a frantic Katz. I was told that they are rarely that busy, and it's a good thing. With all the clamor, no one would have heard Sally's big O that day.

- the amazing sights and sounds of the East Village, Chinatown and the Seaport (no food in the last, but there were food-related smells -- mainly raw sewage and fish)

- a truly memorable meal at Mix

I want to thank everyone for their great suggestions. Though we didn't follow many of them -- getting a group of eight, ranging in ages from 11 to 52 to do anything together is like trying to turn the QE2 on a dime -- they still gave us inspiration and insight. A great time was had by all. We're already trying to figure out how to swing it again next year.

[bloviatrix]

an insanely conceived New Year's Eve trip to Fairway, which I decided was a secret test of my big-city mettle devised by my new York friends.

You truly are a brave man. I did that on NYE 2000. I still haven't recovered.

[picaman]

Sounds like you had a great time--we missed you at Burger Club, but with all you had going on it's more than understandable

True to my adopted South, I made sure I had beans and slaw just after midnight.

Slaw? That's a new one for me. We always had blackeye peas, which now makes a nicely schizo side dish to sauerkraut and pork. I like to cover all my bases.

Jamie

[Varmint]

God I love Gray's Papaya. I'd eat there 3 times a week if it were within walking distance to my office. But it's not.

[Fat Guy]

Given the logistical problems of herding a group like that, I'm amazed at the number of respectable culinary experiences Dave-the-Cook did manage to have. That's dedication, people: study and learn.

[Varmint]

and a silly debate over the crunch-to-cream ratio of handmade, hand-filled cannoli.

So, did you get the mini-cannoli? And how was the debate resolved. I prefer the minis over the standard-sized cannoli, as that is the appropriate crunch-to-cream ratio. Mrs. Varmint likes the ratio equal infinity -- she only likes the shell.