L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon

[fresh_a]

Gingerbread- I would be interested in your reponse to this:

What would you consider non pedestrian food?

Edited June 18, 2003 by fresh_a (log)

[Pan]

Oh. Understood, fresh_a.

[Craig Camp]

Sure. Carpaccio langoustines with pink peppercorns good.  Other langoustines dishes bad. Pasta was just carbonnera, no better. Lamb was not Limousin or Pyrenees, probably just regular, and potatoes were too creamy. Better if chef used BF-15 instead of ratte.  Pedestrian food.  Bell papper sauce for avocado was too Meditteranan and avocado color tired.

What do you mean the pasta was just carbonara? Which kind of cured pork did they use. If you use this as an insult it can only be because you have not had the dish prepared properly. You should visit the thread on Guanciale and Carbonara so that you might understand a simple dish that can be sublime if properly prepared.

Perhaps you can explain how something can be too Mediterranean. Last I heard the Mediterranean was home to some of the finest foodstuffs and cooking on the planet, but perhaps you have never been there. Their bell peppers are wonderful by the way.

[fresh_a]

Thanks, Craig, my sentiments exactly.

[kjohn]

I ate there recently - I didn't find the food ordinary at all. In fact, the avacado fondant with tomato coulis is probably one of the most memorable things I've ever eaten at any restaurant anywhere. The lobster consomme with morels was tremendous. The potato puree, which is served with most of the meat dishes, is a thing of beauty, though "mashed potatoes" might be construed as pedestrian. I felt that each of the dishes I had there really highlighted the main ingredient, and in most cases took it to new heights - I didn't think the foie gras was anything exceptional, but it was still delicious. Overall, I think it's deceptively simple, but not pedestrian.

The lunch counter style is a little weird at first, but shouldn't be a problem for people who dine at the bar often. I wouldn't go there with more than 3 people given the seating arrangements.

The crowd was Japanese and French with the exception of two women sitting next to me: one American, one Australian. One thing I like about being in Paris is that I can only understand the conversations going on around me if I listen very carefully. Unfortunately, the two women were carrying on relentlessly in English. This was the only displeasurable part of the meal. Choice bits: "my masseuse told me the strangest thing the other day...", "I just had the most depressing thought while I was in the bathroom..."

Anyway, as for the no reservations policy, I have no problem with it. It means that the nobodies stand a chance of getting a meal. While I waited, I saw several impatient people walk away in disgust. Its their loss.

Edited June 18, 2003 by kjohn (log)

[John Whiting]

I make no effort to hide my predilections because I don't believe that any food is inherently good or bad without reference to the diner's preferences. (A brief glance at Schwabe's _Unmentionable Cuisine_ makes the point definitively.) For instance, in the 19th century, sweet German wines were the proper thing to drink with one's food; sauces tended to be rich and sweet and it was believed that one's wine should match them. Today, with the exception of certain foods such as foie gras, such wines are considered to be a sign of an ignorant or perverted taste.

I do not seek out restaurant reviewers who tell me merely whether the cuisine is good or bad, no matter in how much detail. If the reviewer is trained as a chef, he is likely to be biased in favor of others who were trained in a similar fashion. Rather, I prefer those who reveal enough of themselves so that I can make a shrewd guess as to whether I will like what they like.

Unless a restaurant sticks inflexibly to a single menu, detailed descriptions and recommendations, by the time you read them, are liable to be outdated and no longer applicable. In the end, a visit to a strange restaurant is liable to be as unpredictable -- and therefore as exciting or excruciating -- as a blind date.

[viaChgo]

Sorry if this has already been posted...

Has anyone eaten here yet? Robuchon retired before I had the chance to eat at Jamin. I was wondering how L'Atelier Joel Robuchon compares?

EDIT: Prior Thread Merged with better title

Edited November 11, 2003 by Jason Perlow (log)

[Joe H]

Jamin was not Robuchon's restaurant, rather a former student (if you will) of his as were several other restaurants including Astor. There are a number of posts about L'Atalier on here including a link to a lengthy post of mine on the thread about L'Astrance which talked extensivly about L'Atalier. Some of his food from the days of his mid '90's restaurant are available at L'Atalier but they, for me, do not seem the same. It is a totally different kind of ambience as well as a different intention in what he is trying to accomplish. Simply, the presentation-even with the same exact dish-is totally different. You are not going to react to the dish in L'Atalier in the way you would react to it in his previous restaurant. One was a formal dining room, the other (and I realize this is debatable), for me, an very upscale diner.

[victornet]

Sorry to be academic about it, but Jamin was originally Robouchon's restaurant. I had such a great, life changing meal there in the early 80's (on a horrible day in Paris featuring a Metro strike) that I was never able to convince myself to eat at his more luxe room (now Ducasse) after he moved. Today's Jamin is indeed the venue of his kitchen's alumnae (I mean this as no put down. And I hope to try it.)

The idea of a diner setting or ambiance sounds GREAT to me, if the food coming out of the kitchen approaches that of those days. I think the staff to diner ratio is no longer at the wild heights it was then. But I applaud the concept, which from the wild range of reactions and reviews I think I need to taste for myself.

[BigboyDan]

"...Jamin was originally Robouchon's restaurant..." Yep. Owned it.

The big deal for Robuchon is to refine his new restaurant to match his newly redefined professional life. The thing for me is that he wanted out of the three-starred culture, and what it now stands for: "World Cuisine."

[fresh_a]

The big deal for Robuchon is to refine his new restaurant to match his newly redefined professional life. The thing for me is that he wanted out of the three-starred culture, and what it now stands for: "World Cuisine."

Not quite sure I understand. When Robuchon was at Jamin, the "World Cuisine" craze hadn't started yet, or if there was an inlking of it, it was brand-new, and not the commercial commodity it is today. He didn't "want out of it" because it didn't exist yet. He had achieved the summit of French gastronomy, and , for him, this was enough, and he decided to get out. And I don't think most of the three-stars, at least here in France, can be described as such (a product of "World Cuisine").

Edited November 12, 2003 by fresh_a (log)

[viaChgo]

Jason, thanks for moving the post to the appropriate thread!

[babka]

After scanning the posts here, I nearly skipped l'atalier--but it was late, and my first night in Paris, and we were wandering through the Latin Quarter after visiting the Orsay, and boom, at 6.30, I looked down the street and there it was: L'Atalier Joel Robuchon.

so we went. and wow. We ordered a flight of 8 little dishes: we each chose one, then asked the waiter to make suggestions for the other 6. We were the only english-speakers in the place, and they gave us the one english-speaking waiter, which was very helpful--my french is up to small discussions, but not large ones.

I'd say half the dishes were executed perfectly--the langoustine ravioli, the jambon with tomato toast, the sauteed scallops, the seared foie gras, and something else I can't remember all stunned us into silence. The other dishes were simply very good. The waiter was also very good about recommending glasses of wine with every other course.

I've never been to a two-star in France, so I don't have any basis for comparison there, but if other visitors are scanning this post, trying to figure out whether or not to go, we certainly had no regrets.

[redwinegulper]

L'Atelier is my new favorite restaurant. Joel Robuchon of Jamin fame has opened a more casual place, and I love it. You sit around two lacquered, almost like a sushi bar. It is fun to just eat first courses, which are two or three bites each. But a great way to sample many of his signature dishes. Every dish I tried was excellent, several were sublime. It is like eating in a four star restaurant, but you skip the jacket and tie, and you can design your own tasting menu. Note there are no reservations, so go early.

I will try to do a more detailed review later, or email me @ atastersjourney@yahoo.com and I will forward my newsletter (free) which should be finished by Monday.

Ed

[Gary Marshall]

Our final day in paris was easter sunday, we had a 11.30m booking at atelier de joel robuchon. After the disaster of the night before at the 'other' atelier i had high hopes for our last meal of the trip.

there was another couple in front of us when we arrived just before 11.30 and when they eventually deigned to open the doors there was about 10 diners, all seated on the right of the restaurant.

i’d been once before and thought it fantastic, but a bit rushed at times, i ordered about 6 courses and could see them stacking up on the hotplate so i said to sarah that this time we’d let the others get their orders on and had a cunning plan to order our lunch a few courses at a time as we only had to catch the eurostar at 2.45 so had plenty of time to kill.

first up were two glasses of champagne, by the time we had these others were on their first courses the plan was working! when i left england my favourite and bargain chestnut soup was on the menu but by the time we made it to paris it had changed to ‘l’oseille en fin bouillon foie gras et jeunes asparagus’, Which we both had, it was twenty times better than the soup at maitre albert but not as good as the mighty chestnut, on my first mouthfull i said to sarah, ‘this tastes green’ which it did, almost a taste of chlorophyll, no doubt due to its infusion with fine asparagus tips and sliced stems.

second courses i had the iberico ham and sarah the ‘tarte fine de maquereau aux parmesan’. for some reason this took an age to appear, perhaps 20 minutes. sarah’s tart was interesting, very provencal with the fish, olives & tomato on a fine pastry base, the ham ok, a generous portion of sliced ham, but despite the wait i still had to remind them about the pain tomate that should accompany it.

i also squeezed in an ouef cocotte, served in the usual matini glass with a good soft egg which was was good but not as memorable as i, well, remembered.

although i had planned a few more courses paradoxically time was looking against us due to the delay, but we solidiered on.....

We had seen another diner tuck into a steak tartare and although i asked for a demi portion the chef refused, little worry, sarah had that as a full plate and of course I had the lamb cutlets. The tartare was excellent nice and spicy and even offered with heinz tomato sauce! itwas accompanied by fries a l’ancienne, basically curly fries which were very good, the lamb and of course the pomme puree was up to usual standards, rare gorgeous thymey/garlicy lamb and the finest heart clogging pomme (that is so unctous it looks like mayonnaise).

with about half an hour to spare now we had a portion of the ‘tartes de tradition’ to share, a selection of slices from minature tarts, they ranged from the darkest chocolate to the lighest lemon, but weren’t earth shattering.

I had a coffee and planned a calva but were out of my ‘usual’ and bearing in mind the stinking headache i endured back to york last time i thought i’d take it easier and cancelled the order.

other than the champagne we had water and a bottle of chorey les beaune 2001 tollot beaut, the most expensive of our trip at 70e.

bill was a mildly unpleasant 216e. Maybe we’d ordered badly, with a preponderance of heavy dishes, maybe the menu is better in winter but it wasn’t as good as my last trip and to add insult to injury there was a noticable price creep, and it wasn’t a cheap place last time out!

I’ll probably give it another go as it suits to have an early and flexible lunch when we’ve got a eurostar to catch but hope this was an off day-not a trend towards higher prices/ unattentive service.

Roll on the next trip to paris!

cheers

gary

Edited April 22, 2004 by Gary Marshall (log)

[Carlsbad]

Thanks for the great review- and all the others.

[AmoParis]

Thanks again for such a great journal -- you really get the "to the minute" feel. I'd like to know if you've tried the Anti-hotplate technique before and how well it works. Does the serving staff ever get annoyed, as they like to have all their slips in?

I guess my other worry is that I'll focus on those hotplated dishes once I feel I have some control, and for me the sense of not having that control is one of the nicest parts about being served food (rather than making it myself). On the other hand, hotplated food can really kill a dish.

[Gary Marshall]

thank you

no, i think they are quite used to people adding to their order as they go on. When it's busy no doubt they like to work through the orders asap and re-use the table.

i think many first timers don't know how much they will need/want so you might go in and think 3 and a desert will be sufficient but then you see someone elses and you've got room so you go for it, that for me is one of the great things about the restaurant, there's none of that 'i wish i'd ordered that' , if you like the look of it just add it to your order!.

on my first trip i had chestnut soup to start and then another one instead of cheese because it was soo good!

cheers

gary

[Dryden]

Having just read through this thread, I thought it might be worthwhile to add an actual review of the place, since having looked through John Whiting's review earlier, I'm not sure it paints an accurate picture of the establishment.

We wife and I were in France for our honeymoon in September. It was our first trip to France, and over the span of several days in Paris, we ate at L'Atelier (twice), Pierre Gagnaire, and cancelled a meal at Taillevent (to go to L'Atelier the second time).

First of all, going. The restaurant opens at 6:30. They take reservations for the 6:30 seating only, after that it is a strict no-reservations policy. We went twice for the early seating so as to better plan our evenings.

The decor of the restaurant is simply beautiful. If you think of food and cookery as art, this is the place for you. Try to get a seat with a good view of the center of the restaurant. The place is done entirely in red and black lacquer, and puts off a classy Asian vibe. The real star of the decorating is the food. The two counters are laid out in a sort of U shape, with the open kitchen in the middle. There is an impressive array of the nicest produce I have ever seen accenting the kitchen as well, which is used during service. The ingredients on Iron Chef are, frankly, not as nice as these. All of the hot preparation is done in full view of the diners in small copper saucepans. During the two occasions we were there, the preparation was as quiet as could be. Not 10 words were spoken by the staff, who performed all of their work flawlessly. Mr. Robuchon was not, apparently, in residence at the time of our visit. I am a pretty large guy, about 6 feet tall, 230 plus pounds. I carry some weight on my frame. The place was very full when we were there, but we did not have any trouble with having enough room on our stools.

This is not a restaurant to go to if you are looking for 3 star service. It is a place to go if you are looking for impeccable service without the stiffness and formality that a 3 star restaurant brings to the party. It is also probably worth mentioning that neither my wife or I can speak French worth a damn.

As for the menu, there are two parts: regular meal sized portions, and tasting sized portions. Here's a copy of the menu.

At any rate, we went in for several of the tasting portions. 3 or 4 per person would probably be appropriate, depending on how hungry you are. All of the dishes we had were great, but I will say that the more interesting you allow the chef to be, the more you will be rewarded. Foie gras, as much as I love it, eaten by itself can only be so good - it's not as if the chef is making it himself. It's very much akin to going to a steakhouse. The quality of the meal says more about their ability to choose great meat than it does the chef's ability to cook it.

In particular, the supreme of pigeon with foie gras is quite possibly the single best dish my wife or I have ever eaten. It is simply perfection on a plate. The creamed potatoes which come with the dish are somehow almost as good. How, as gingerbread noted, potatoes can be "too creamy", I have no idea. If I could cream potatoes like these, I would be eating them every day, dying of a cholesterol overdose by the end of the month, and be as happy as a clam doing it. The potatoes also came with a saddle of lamb the nights we were there, which was also excellent, although not as good as the pigeon. The sweetbreads and shrimp with herb vermicelli also stand out in my mind as having been exceptionally excellent.

The wine list is good, and not overpriced. We were able to find, with the help of the very friendly waitstaff, several excellent half bottles that complimented the food beautifully.

For dessert, the souffle is not to be missed. It is a thing of beauteous perfection, as is the scoop of pistachio ice cream that vanishes into it when inserted by the server. The assortment of ice creams and sorbets is also most impressive, as is the mille feuille.

Dinner for the two of us, about 8 tasting dishes, 2 desserts, a half bottle of wine and coffee, came to about 160 euro or so. This was easily the best value I've ever paid for a meal of this quality. The experience was vastly more enjoyable for us (and about 1/3 of the price) as what we experience 2 days later at Pierre Gagnaire, and the food was in many ways just as good, if not better in some instances.

This is a culinary experience not to be missed. If I only had one meal to eat in Paris, it would be here. If I only had one meal left to eat on earth, it might well be here, too.

Edited June 3, 2004 by Dryden (log)

[BDWiener]

Hello All-

Just back from ten days in Paris which included two meals at the Atelier, a lunch and a dinner.

First a weekday lunch:

We were warmly ushered inside by the attractive hostess and with no wait whatsover, seated at on our stools, which despite the Lebey Guide's complaint, are not uncomfortable. The crowd was a mixture of French and tourists. The service was warm right from the get go, my mediocre French was indulged, and my request for translations of certain menu items received replies in flawless English. My wife and ordered, and both requested glasses of red wine. The staff discussed among themselves for a moment, going over what we'd ordered, and brought us what they thought was appropriate. And the wines were delicious and I wish I hadn't lost the bill so I'd know what they were.

I started with the sorrel soup followed by sweetbreads, then lamb chops and finally the "chickory" dessert. All were excellent. The sorrel soup was a fresh and frothy taste of springtime, garnished with slices and spears of asparagus and studded with a few cubes of foie gras. It was excellent.

The ris de veau was the best I have ever had. Crusty on the outside, and generously peppered, it was like an unbelievably moist, unctuous steak.

The lamb chops were better than ordinary but not up to the two previous dishes.

And the chicory dessert was a revelation, kind of a deconstructed tiramisu with a coffee Jello (not meant pejoratively) accompanied by creme fraiche and mascarpone. My wife's gaspacho starter was smooth, cool and utterly refreshing and her mackerel tart elevated simple provencal food to new heights. The service was efficient, but we never felt rushed. We both emerged excited and feeling like we had a perfect lunch. Sated, but still energetic enough to enjoy a day, as opposed to bloated and somnolent like we usually are after a fancy midday meal.

So we had to go back....

Sunday night dinner.

The hour wait the unpleasant and slightly dowdy hostess warned us of was in fact two hours. We cooled our heels at the adjacent hotel bar where the young French bartender could barely be bothered to serve us. We finally sat down for dinner at 11:00 pm, where the same friendly and gracious staff we recognized from lunch were clearly exhausted. And so was the food.

The same sorrel soup I loved at lunch was served slopped in to the bowl and was kind of greasy. My entrecote was indifferent. And the extra portions of Joel's famous potatoes that arrived unasked for (and uncharged for) were not forthcoming. My chocolate tart for dessert was mediocre as well. The evening was further marred by the rather drunk young French men sitting near us who, assuming no foreigners can understand their rarified tongue, indulged in making fun of the appearance and habits of the foreign diners around them and complaing to the waitstaff about their inability to smoke in the restaurant.

To sum it all up, great meals are to be had. And great experiences. And mediocre ones too. All within a few days of each other. L'Atelier is definitely worth eating at. I just hope your experiences are more like my lunch and less like my dinner.

Ben

[Bux]

There's a wonderful reminder built in to Ben's post that we should take every rave and every pan with a grain of salt and not consider a post relating the experience of one meal as anything like a review of a restaurant.

[John Whiting]

Ben, I count myself fortunate that my own experience fell between your two.

[little ms foodie]

I'll be in Paris the first week of July and really want to try L'Atelier. Went by it when I was there in April but my friend and I weren't up for it then. Here's my question to recent diners.... lunch or dinner? I'm leaning towards lunch on a weekday, what might be the best time?

Any other recent reviews are also welcome!

[pierre45]

I guess you know about the no reservation policy.therefore dinner late monday is a good idea.

I had dinner a month ago on monday around 9.30 and was seated immediately.i was alone but i noticed several empty seats.

I have eaten at l'atelier several times and find that the experience varies greatly depending on what one orders ,you have a mouthful of air for 18 euros and really

stellar dishes ; i.e caramelized quail ( 32 euros).so the key is what one orders .

Wine list interesting and reasonable.again knowledge is important.

overall its a new concept that delivers sometimes

[John Talbott]

Readers of English may want to visit Gayot.com to read the complete article.

Bux, I just went to Gayot.com to see if I could pick up news for the Paris Digest and it struck me the the news was very old. Do you know how often they post it? Thanks.