La Regalade, Paris

[PS]

Last time I was at La Regalade was October/November 2002 and it was just as good as ever. For value it's up there with Chez Michel in the 10th (I think?) and George Blanc's L'Ancienne Auberge in Vonnas (sorry, nowhere near Paris), which I was at last week and had one of the best meals of my life.

[cigalechanta]

La Regalade is one of my favorite bistros. The first time I was there because Pierre Franney said it was his favorite and the chefs from other restaurants ate there on their days off.

[nanuq]

Went to La Regalade in September this year. We got a reservation 3 days ahead, a sure sign of the times. The service was fine - businesslike, but we got what we wanted when we wanted it. The food is great - I find it hard to describe, rustic is not the right word, but the flavours are strong. I had canard sauvage, and it was definitely gamey. My cepes starter was out of this world. I had duck again next night at Willi's Wine Bar and it's hard to imagine the two dishes were related. But La Regalade is a great experience, I'd go back anytime.

[Bux]

Nanuq, could you elaborate on the differences between the two duck dishes?

[fresh_a]

Why would anyone go to Willi's Wine Bar to eat?

[nanuq]

Unfortunately I did not write down too many details of sauces and sides, but the duck at La Regalade had a strong, gamey flavor, definitely wild.

At Wili's it was more of a classic duck, much softer sauce and flavors.

I liked both dishes a lot, they were very different though and I'm not describing it all well! I'm tempted to say the one was more subtle than the other but that would imply it was better, and it was not, the "sauvage" just whacked you over the head with strong flavor. The one at Willi's was an excellent dish, but could have come from any good French restaurant, and the one at La Regalade was completely different, and I have never had anything like it.

And by the way, in spite of the name, Willi's is a very good restaraunt, we go there every time we are in Paris, and they have an excellent wine list and wines by the glass.

Edited October 26, 2003 by nanuq (log)

[Bux]

Why would anyone go to Willi's Wine Bar to eat?

One night when we were staying in the first arrondissement, we went there thinking it might be a place to get a light bite on a moment's notice. I have no idea if the food is any good, because the place was packed. Not a table to be had and no place at the bar which was packed three deep evidently with people waiting for a table. So plenty of people must eat there and apparently it's a good idea to reserve.

I highly recommend Legrand Filles et Fils in the Gallerie Vivienne for a light bite at lunch time along with a few glasses of wine. I recall nice charcuterie, cheese and smoked fish plates.

[MobyP]

Does anyone have the phone number/contact details for La Regalade?

[paulbrussel]

La Régalade, 49, Avenue Jean Moulin, 75014 Paris, 01/45456858

[marcus]

Just called La Regalade and was told that they were totally sold out for dinner in November. I would appreciate knowing if anyone hears something different.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

La Regalade is the best restaurant in its price class that I know, of anywhere in the world.

Marcus, can you give us a short list of some of the restaurants you have experienced (in Paris to make it simple) with which you compare La Regalade?

[marcus]

Marcus, can you give us a short list of some of the restaurants you have experienced (in Paris to make it simple) with which you compare La Regalade?

Margaret, first let me characterize La Regalade as a moderately priced bistro with very well prepared dishes, grounded in the classics, but with significant modernizations. I'm not including in this category the old classic war horses like Astier and Chardennoux, the truly modern bistros like Epi Dupin, or expensive places like Benoit.

Most comparable is Repaire de Cartouche

Also Ardoise and Allobroges

Au Bascou is not a favorite of mine, although many like it.

C'Amelot which was recommended by Victor may also fit here, but I haven't tried it.

[Bux]

C'Amelot is certainly a good choice. Comfortable food in a pleasant place. No pretensions, just good cooking. One of it's big differences may be the range. Little or no choice is offered. There's the menu of the day and perhaps a choice of appetizer, main course or dessert. I don't know what Aux Lyonnais was like before Ducasse took an interest in it, but earlier this month, I found the kind of combination of fine and rustic that made me think of la Regalade. It was the most expensive of the bistro/small restaurants in which we ate, but I thought it was also the one that was most compelling. 110 euros for two appetizers, two main courses and one dessert from the a la carte menu, with mineral water and a decent beaujolais. We skipped coffee. Were I willing to take a second choice in terms of a starter and dessert, I could have had my main course as part of a 28 euro menu and spent 10 euros less. Esilda would have saved less as she didn't order dessert. By the way, I recall a post somewhere on this board about being wary of the wine by carafe. The carafe of the day was a bit less than a half liter and at 42 euros, it was 9 euros more expensive than my 750 ml bottle of brouilly, but it was a Grand Cru Mazy-Chambertin and quite possibly an exceptional value.

[DodinBouffant]

It's not surprising to hear that La Regalade is full for dinner service in November. I'm sure that a lot of that has to do with the wild game season. Mr. Cambdeborde seems to have quite a following for many of his hearty and inspiring game dishes. I often prefer to dine here at lunchtime(I'm not sure why, I just think I get a better vibe). The same food is available lunch or dinner. I managed to secure a reservation for lunch next week(I called about 3 weeks ago and was initially told "complet" and very curiously asked how they could be full for lunch a month out...she then corrected herself "ahh dejeuner". So give it a shot for lunch instead.

I too find the food comparable at Repaire du Cartouche (Cambdeborde and Paquin co-authored a very good cookbook together along with Thierry Faucher(L'os a moelle) and

Thierry Breton(Chez Michel) called "Qu'est qu'on mange ce soir" which is definitely worth adding to any cookbook collection.

I do not however, find the food or service or atmosphere comparable at L'Ardoise. While I did manage to have a good to very good meal there it certainly did not compare to the cuisine of La Reg/Rep d Cart.

C'Amelot has been recommended to me by the owners of L'Avant Gout ( a restaurant that I highly recommend), obviously there is a friendship between the two restaurants, and I think this year I shall try C'Amelot.

A pleasant surprise last year for me was Beurre Noisette (excellent rouget preparation and a wonderful braised pork shoulder over lentils). Two rooms, the front fairly quiet and the back seemed a little more lively. Excellent service and I believe the chef was the poissonier or something along those lines at Taillevent.

Biche au Bois should not be missed in November, excellent cooking (lots of game) in a very very very lively room. Lots of fun and one of the best values in Paris.

[marcus]

I do not however, find the food or service or atmosphere comparable at L'Ardoise.  While I did manage to have a good to very good meal there it certainly did not compare to the cuisine of La Reg/Rep d Cart.

.

I agree regarding L'Ardoise, it fall significantly short of La Regalade, the dining room is more like a cafeteria and service is perfunctory and rushed. However, the food itself can be surprisingly good, not as sophisticated, but the chef is able to suffuse his main ingredients with flavor, something that I find quite rare, even in Paris. It also has a far more convenient location and maintains very low prices for that area.

[coachboy]

We went to La Regalade this past summer...I found it to be solid, very hearty cuisine. Well worth the 30e prix fixe.

The desserts were really disappointing, however. In addition, we had to order our desserts at the beginning of the meal - really odd, I thought, as I ordered a cheese plate (which consisted of two slices of a pecorino toscana type cheese) and my wife ordered a chilled sorbet.

Better for fall/winter dining than summer eating...but then again, that's how I feel about most french food.

Coachboy

P.S. Astier was great, if you get a chance

[coachboy]

One more thing...I know a fair amount about wine (cellar over 800 bottles), yet when I'm in Europe I like to try obscure, less expensive wines. (Unless I find a bargain, like 83 margaux for 130e two years ago)

At Regalade, they have an interesting list, but I hadn't heard of many of the producers. So I asked for a cote du rhone, and they recommended a 2002. I agreed, though I should have known better. 2002 is a total washout year for the rhone - they had torrential floods in September, and these wines, by and large, should be avoided. Sure enough, the wine was thin and weak - like a beaujolais. I made a comment, and they implied that the wine was "proper" but if I wished I could exchange it. As I didn't really know any of the other wines, I decided to just drink it and it was drinkable, no more, no less.

Coachboy

[John Talbott]

In Saturday's "Croque Notes" in Le Figaro, Francois Simon announced that Yves Camdeborde would be leaving La Régalade, replaced by Bruno Doucet, age 30, who trained with Charles Barrier in Tours, was the #2 at Apicius under Jean-Pierre Vigato and worked in Pierre Gagnaire's kitchen. Simon notes that he'll follow "l'esprit bistrotier de La Régalade" starting the first days of May.

Camdeborde, one of several culinary "offspring" of Christian Constant, now at Le Violin D'Ingres and next-door's Cafe Constant, when he was at Les Ambassadeurs at the Crillon, will rest a bit and be back after la rentrée somewhere. Simon says he's looking for a little calm brasserie with a plat du jour.

My last meal there in November was glorious and full of game as usual.

By the way, I find Francois Simon's "Croque Notes," usually in Saturday's or rarely in Friday's Figaros, to be good in forecasting changes and openings far in advance of formal reviews, for example, he raved about La Famille, 18th, there, well before he and others wrote it up in the Figaroscope.

[Bux]

Thanks for that bit of news. We'll be looking forward to reports of the first meals in May, as well as to news of what Camdeborde is up to in the fall. Brasseries are a dying breed of restaurant. The Flo Group gets lots of criticism for turning the best of the traditional brasseries in Paris into a chain, but my sense has been that were it not for them, we'd be seeing fast food in those spaces.

[TarteTatin]

We had very nice experience at La Regalade in January. It is a bit different from a good many restaurants in Paris. Service is brisk, but not to the point of being brusque. That being said, the meal was worth the money, and if you are ready and able to sit very close to your neighbors and overhear their conversations, you will enjoy yourself. We did, though another party of Americans were obviously not having a good time. They didn't expect the closeness of the tables or the smoke. The room is smallish, there is no bar per se, and I have no idea what they would do with more than twenty heavy winter coats.

Along with the aperitifs they brought round a venison pate which we sliced ourselves and ate on excellent rustic bread with cornichons. They did miss reciting the evening specials, so we missed out on the scallops with roe (Why, oh why, can we not get scallops with roe in the US?). However, the crab was excellent as was the brandade.

We did find that ordering the desserts at the beginning of the meal a bit odd.

We will return on our next visit. An excellent meal, all in all.

And again, thanks to everyone who wrote advising us about the place.

[Bux]

another party of Americans were obviously not having a good time. They didn't expect the closeness of the tables or the smoke.

That happens far more often than one might expect. Often enough it's the product of limited research, good intentions, but misguided enthusiasm. All too often tourists read lots of guide books and many articles in periodicals. They are more apt to notice the number of times a restaurant is mentioned, than to read deeply what is said. As a result, they wind up at a restaurant that is well liked by many, but totally unsuited for their needs. Mostly it's their own fault for not carefully doing their research, but sometimes the blame can be shared by the reviewers whose own entusiasm leads them to gush about the food rather than offering a good description. Sometimes the disappointment is totally unexpected. Sometime back a culinary journalist mentioned la Régalade to me and I said it's one of my favorite restaurants. I think I actually said it's my favorite restaurant, but that's an overstatement. She went on to tell me that she recommended it highly to a party of Americans with excellent culinary credentials and was rather shocked to hear they disliked their meal and found the food heavy and greasy. Chacun a son goût.

[PS]

Last time I went to La Regalade I had a heavy and greasy(ish) cassoulet. It was magic ! No complaints at all. As you suggest, Bux, if you go to a restaurant with too many preconceptions you've got a good chance of being disappointed (especially if your preconceptions have little basis in reality), even when it's a great place. Was this American party expecting a diet Bearnaise cuisine? A contradiction in terms in my experience...

I'll be interested to see what happens at La Regalade, as I've had nothing but good experiences there.

[picaman]

heavy and greasy

Really, though. Be honest. Does it get any better than that?

Jamie

[fresh_a]

How 'bout the fact that chef/owner Yves Camdeborde has now left his mythic bistro to open "L'Ourcine", 92 rue Broca, Paris 13th district (tel: 01 47 07 13 65), a rustic, brasserie style bistro (?) open only for lunch. Just got three hearts in the Figaroscope... worth checking out!

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Let's do lunch