Croatia: Merged topics

[marktynernyc]

Just got back from Hvar, Croatia - a wonderful Mediterranian

island in the Adriatic. Vineyards, olive tree groves, pomegranite

trees, fig trees, the blue green Adriatic, royal palm trees....dalmation

ham, fresh fish, mussels, clams, scampi, lobster, local wines,

local olive oil....

Luna Konoba

tel 021-741-400; mob 098-748-695

Petra Hektorovica 5

luna-hvar@st.hinet.hr

Located directly across from the Golden Shell -

the third floor is open to the sky. The food is well

prepared - had fish pate with smoked salmon,

octopus salad and spaghetti buzara - ordered bottle

of white Zlatan Otok. I was a bit jet lagged but

thought everything was quite good. Cool hip

music played discreetly in the background.

Golden Shell

Petra Hektorovica 8

mob 098-16-88-797

The owner is a member of Slow Food. Started off

with dalmation ham and goat cheese in olive oil,

for entree a steak stuffed with goat cheese and

capers with a side order of swiss chard and potatoes -

ordered a bottle of Zlatan Otok red. Everything was

well prepared The owner is very personable.

I realized half way back across the Atlantic that

dumplings on the menu probably meant ravioli (doh!).

Would have like to have gotten back here for

another meal - next year.

Zori

Palmizana, Pakleni Otoci

tel 385-021-718-231; mob 098-168-3377

zori_palmizana@hi.hinet.hr

Fresh grilled scampi, dalmation ham and a

bottle of Luviji (white).  Had a couple glasses of

Prosec for dessert. Food that is somewhat challenging

to eat is always an adventure for me - am I suppose

to eat this or more importantly, am I NOT suppose

to eat that?  Also getting the hands messy

(ahh the puritan ethic). Everything was satisfying

and the setting over looking the cove, underneath

pine and fig trees is very tranquil.  

Menego

Vl. Dinko Kovacevic

tel. 021-742-036; mob. 091-548-5845

www.menego.hr

menegohvar@mail.inet.hr

This restaurant only serves what I would call starters

(almost tapas size portions). The  care, attention and

pride of their products is obvious - almost everything I

had was superb. Marinated anchovies, Pag cheese, octopus

salad (with chick peas mixed in adding a nice contrast of

textures), dalmation ham (smooth and buttery), dalmation

bacon ( a bit thicker and chewier), the house wine, figs

stuffed with almonds and soaked in spirits, the orange and

walnut liquors - excellent. The only thing that failed to win

me over was the stuffed bread (almost like a stuffed foccia).

A small cellar restaurant. I met a couple from Venice my

second time here.

Jorum Podrum

Duonja kola, Stari Grad, Hvar

tel 021-765-829; mob 091-573-63-76

jurinpodrum@yahoo.com

Recommended in Footprint. Had the house white, some

dalmation ham, spaghetti with lobster ( the tomatoes,

capers, garlic, white wine - wonderful) and a plate of

fresh fried girice (little fish which could be eaten whole).

The owner told me the best months are May, June,

September and October - July and August are too busy.

Macondo

Groda bb

tel. 021 -742-850

macondo@st.hinef.hr

Situated about a block off the main square and near

Hektorovica unfinished house - this is one of the more

upscale restaurants. The food quality is excellent. I did

the chef's recommendations - hvar sampler plate of fish

pate-octopus salad- marinated anchovies, fruta di mare

risotto, fish fillet w/roasted vegetables.  Ordered a bottle

of white - Bodanjusa. For desert - a couple slices of fresh

succulent watermelon. Try and get a table outside

along the walkway - the lights swaying in the breeze,

people passing by - makes for a wonderful setting. Finished

with some homemade prosec - which was a deep ruby red.

had my last dinner here - lobster spaghetti (140 kn),

other white fish (120 kn), grilled vegetable (25 kn) a 1/2 liter

of house white (30 kn) - once again a beautiful peaceful setting -

late at night I had the walkway to myself.

Palaca Paladini

Luci Antun Tudor, Hvar

tel 385-021-742-104

email: paladinis@tihi-hvar.com

Located near Golden Shell and Konoba Luna. Had spaghetti

fruta de mare, grilled squid and a liter of the house white.

The grilled squid were excellent.

Two Fisherman (Dua Ribara)

located on Fabrika; between Stelle di mare and Hotel Adriatic;

along the harbor's edge

tel 021-741-109

Great view of the town and harbor - try a get a table during sunset.

Ordered a plate of dalmation ham, locally made cheese and a liter of

house white. Decide to try the lamb which was okay - maybe a

little over cooked. But the view is great.  

The lemon ice cream was a nice a finish.

Gust

Frane Radica 14, Bol, Brac

tel 385-21-635-911; mob 098-423-003

Recommended in Footprint. Had lobster salad and salted sardines

(with a slice of onion and some olive oil - delicious) and the green

spaghetti fruta de mare (scampi, mussels,, shrimps, clams).

If you're in Bol this is a good choice.

Faria

Ulica sv. Marka, Hvar

mob 098-361-543

Located to the left of the cathedral. I stumbled upon

this place my first jet lagged night in Hvar after having

two bottles of wine and had a helluva time finding it again.

he huge patio is under a canopy of grape vines with

clusters of grapes within arms reach.  The restaurant

seems to cater more to large groups and families. Tried

a hvar plate (sampling of ham, pag cheese, sardines and

seafood salad) and carpet shells ( clams - not as plump as

mussels but briny and plentiful.

Hotel Skalinada

Zavala, Hvar

tel / fax 385-021-767-019

After driving through a very long dark tunnel and making

my way down a steep twisting road I found this restaurant

on the south side of the island. A fisherman was delivering

a freshly caught fish to the owner/chef. I started with gnochhi

with gorgonzola (50 kn) and a fillet from the freshly caught

fish with zuchinni + potatoes (70 kn) and a liter of the house

white (20 kn). There are also rooms for rent - if you're

looking for a true get away on the island the south side is

the place to go.

Piscena

Piscena, Hvar

boat taxi - Mice Domancic

mob ++385-91-1742-936

The Blue Grotto had been canceled so I decided to take a

boat taxi (50 kn) to a private cove, which just happened to

have a restaurant owned by the boat taxi driver (eating

there is optional). While I swam and laid out, MIchael

started up a wood fire in the grill. I had ham(20 kn), a

whole grilled fish (180 kn) and the house white (10kn) -

with tip: 250 kn. The setting - the tranquility - the food -

the boat ride - a perfect meal

If you would like me to post my trip activities, please let me know....

[Adam Balic]

I would like to here more about your trip if you have the time. Strangely enough I made the Swiss Chard and potato dish for some friends the other night.

Adam Balic

[fresh_a]

Please post everything! I've been hearing so much about how Croatia is so hip, the new Ibiza,etc etc, and have been invited by a client, so I'll be checking it out soon. How expensive was the trip (dining,accomodation,etc)?

[Adam Balic]

the new Ibiza

This is a good thing?

[fresh_a]

I didn't say it was good, just how it's being described....I guess they refer to the Ibiza of years ago when the avant-gaard bohemian travellers discovered the isle, and before the rave-party invasion. Then again, I've never been there, and have never been inclined to go..

[paulbrussel]

Well, I have been to Ibiza and I was quite impressed by the restaurant Cana Ioana where among others I had a great dish with beans and truffle. Since I liked it so much, I went back the other day.

[Adam Balic]

Paul - get with the program, when it come to Spain, you don't have to have been there to have and opinion!

[marktynernyc]

Departure / Arrival :

Flew NYC to Frankfurt to Split. Croatia Airlines has a bus (30 kn)

that takes you to the town terminal (ferries, buses, taxis all in one

place). We were late leaving Frankfurt so the 2 pm fast ferry to

Hvar was sold out by the time I got to the Jadrolinja ticket booth.

Bought at ticket for the 3:30 slow ferry and  checked my luggage

(5 kn for 2 hours; near bus terminal, across from where the ferries

dock) and explored Diocletian's Palace. Split is dirty, dusty, lots of

graffiti, lots of tourist shops, ugly apartment buildings - I would

suggest spending just a few hours and then moving on. Ferry

tickets can be bought one day in advance - recommended for fast ferries.

Slow ferry took about 2 1/2 hours. Stayed at the Palace Hotel (61 euro

a night, full board; half-board 56 euro a night) - great location with

communist charm and furnishings are very minimal. Clean but very

modest. If you stay here request a double, harbor side, second or third

floor, unobstructed view. I would recommend getting half board. Another

option: the Hotel Adriatic - a good location but I would be concerned about

the bars along the harbor playing music till 4 am. Best bet - rent a soba

from a Croatian  - make sure it's within town. All the church

bells in town ring at 6am (and one at 7:15 am just to make sure you're

awake) - and the ferry signals departure at 8:30 am and 8:45 am before

leaving at 9 am - be prepared to start the day early or bring ear plugs.

After showering went to the Konoba Luna for dinner, then drinks along the

harbor's edge and finally to bed.

Day 1 - After breakfast grabbed my towel, swimming goggles and went for a

swim - you can walk along the harbor either way and in time find a place to

spread out.    There is mostly rock beaches (not smooth pebbled beaches)

which makes getting into the water a bit tricky.  Aqua shoes are a must -

makes for getting in and out safer and protects your feet from sea urchins.

Spent the afternoon at the Fortress, which is situated high above Hvar town

- the view over the town and the surrounding islands is beautiful - the

sunlight dancing off the water, the town's tannish white stone buildings and

clay tiled roofs, ferries arriving and leaving, sailboats and yatchs

cruising around the islands, people walking along the harbor's edge, church

bells ringing.  There is a restaurant in the Fortress - I had a couple

glasses of house wine sitting along the wall and just taking it all in -

letting the "island life" mind-set sink in. As I was walking back down

through the town I heard nuns singing afternoon prayers at the convent. Had

dinner at The Golden Shell - the owner is a member, as am I, of Slow Foods -

very personable man. Afterwards, meandered the narrow stone walkways around

town and had a few drinks along the harbor.

[marktynernyc]

Day 2 -

Caught a boat taxi to Palminzana (40 kn round trip - 30 minute ride), one of the islands

of the Otok Pakelini.  The pebbled beach is small and has three restaurants fronting it.

I walked out along one side of the cove - found a spot and caught some sun.

Had lunch a Zori - sitting under pine trees, the gentle swells surging right

below me, the hiss of the water on smooth pebbles. Later on a large group of

teenage Italian boys and girls took over the beach - laughing, shouting,

giggeling - it was beautiful watching them play ( I almost felt a bit

lascivious watching). The boys showing off, jumping off each other's

shoulders - the girls posing on the small stone docks. A light rain in the

afternoon but the taxi arrived 5 minutes early. Had dinner at Menego and

once again, just walked around town - up and down stairs, a drink along the

harbor. An Irish and Australian couple invited me to join them at their

table for drinks - afterwards we went to Carpe Diem.  Lots of attractive men

and women and a cool vibe - very restrained considering the amount of

drinking going on. The owners of the yatchs and sailboats moored along the

harbor watched the love parade from the comfort of their boats.  Later my

new friends and I went for an au natural late night swim under a waxing

moon.

Day 3

Rented a scooter and headed off to Stari Grad. Drove through burned swaths

of forest and green swaths of forest.  Strange burned landscape with stone

piled walls. Stari Grad is very quiet and I could see living here - Hvar is very

lively in comaprison.  There were moments where I would take a breath and I

felt my whole being relax - spread out a bit. The town stretches along both

sides of a long harbor - one can see the mountains of neighboring islands and

the coast in the distance. Had lunch a Juro Podrum - ham, spaghetti with lobster (65 kn),

girice and house white wine.  The spaghetti had lobster, capers, tomatoes, garlic. Small

restaurant - 20 people max. The owner: "...may, june, september and october

are the best months....july and august are too busy..."  Walked along the

harbor to the Hotel Levanda and swam - the misty clouds pouring over the

green mountains.  Slowly made my way back to Hvar - signage is very easy to

understand. Had dinner at Macondo - get a table outside - the lamps shades

swaying in the breeze, the soft light on the tan white stones, people

passing by. Had the chef's recommendations - combo platter of fish pate,

octopus salad and anchovies; risotto fruta de mare, 1st class fish fillet

with grilled vegetables. Ordered a bottle of white - Bodanjusa. Desert -

watermelon and then a couple glasses of Prosec - deep ruby red not the brown

oloroso type served at the bars. During dinner I heard thunder in the

distance. The midnight blue sky changing to periwinkle then back.  Near the

end of my meal the heavens opened and released a torrent of rain - couples

rain soaked but laughing, instant waterfalls created by the numerous stairs.

It hadn't rained for 9 months - they needed it plus it gave me an

opportunity to see the town in a different light.

[Stone]

I spent a week in Croatia back in '98. It was terrific. Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Korcula & Split. Zagreb (only one day) was a large "Austrian" cosmopolitan city. I remember sitting in the main square looking at crowds of teenagers in the street. They looked and acted just like crowds of NY teenagers. This was not some war-torn strife filled country. In fact, one of the things that really amazed me about Croatia was how everyone dressed so well. People on the streets, at the cafes, restaurants, everywhere.

The food was also amazing. In Zagreb it's similar to what I would expect in Austria. Down the coast, it's what I would expect in Greece. (I haven't been to either place.) I had great meals of fresh fish, mussels, clams, olives, cheese. I also bought a big bottle of homemade rakia and olive oil. The oo was perhaps the best, most flavorful I'd ever had. As for the rakia, the guy promised that if I drank a shot a day, I'd never get sick. Alas, I ran out too quickly.

There is also an amazing history in this part of the world that was completely omitted from my education. There's a vivid history of kings and princes from the Baltic area. Also, from what I recall, Dubrovnik (as beautiful as you can imagine) was the last Christian city in the fight against the Muslim expansion coming north. The strength of Dubrovnik kept the Muslims (I'm not sure if it was the Ottomans at that point) from capturing Vienna. Imagine. Also, Dubrovnik at one time rivalled Venice for domination of trade in the Adriatic. I believe that they were weakened by the Muslim wars, permitting the ascendancy of Venice and the renaissance. (I'm not sure all the timing works on these historical events. Someone here will educate us. And if anyone knows of any books on the pre-1700 history of this region, I'd love to hear about them. I've got "The Balkans" on my list, but it's more modern)

Edited September 24, 2003 by Stone (log)

[marktynernyc]

Day 4

Woke to intermittent rain. Walked over to the Franciscan Monastery and got

caught there for about 2 hours due to heavy downpour. It was kinda pleasant

sitting in the cloistered courtyard listening to the rain splatter on the

white marble - the church bells ringing on the hour.  The rain finally eased

and I went and had lunch at Palaca Paladini - spaghetti frutti de mare,

grilled squid and the house white.  Afterwards walked around exploring and

photographing from various vantage points.  Coming back into town along the

harbor edge I noticed the clouds were breaking up and the setting sun light

was washing over the the town. I stopped at The Two Fisherman - which is

located near the Hotel Adriatic on the harbor - grab a table, ordered some

house white, local cheese and dalmation ham and watched the sun light shift

from golden yellow to pink, as evening settle over the town and harbor.

Across the harbor the moon was rising behind the hill of houses, beneath the

silhouetted royal palm trees people walk along the harbor's edge,

sailboats mooring lines creaked and groaned while their masts sway to and fro,

wisps of clouds from today's storm obscure the moon. Finally the full moon

made her appearance.  The city dried from the breezes and the sky cleared.

Met Alan from Paris  - had drinks along the harbor's edge and walked around

the town soaking in the vibe.

Day 5

Had arrange a boat excursion (150 kn, lunch included) with Atlas Tours to Bol

on the island of Brac. Cruise started at 9 am and took about 2 1/2 hours to

get there. Lunch was included but I wanted to get off the boat and explore

Bol before heading off to the Golden Horn.  Bol doesn't have a lot of

ambience - the harbor is charming. Had lunch at Gust - excellent. Lobster

salad, salted sardines, green spaghetti frutti de mare and the house white.

Instead of taking a water taxi from Bol to the Godlen Horn I strongly

recommend walking there. The walk goes along the coast,  under pine trees and

takes about 25 minutes at a leisurely pace.  The Golden Horn is a smooth

peeble beach which juts out to point - one one side of the Horn wind

surfers, jet skies and boat swarm like humming birds. The setting is sublime

- the mountains lord over the Horn, blue clear water on your left and right,

the sound  of  the waves on the pebbles, a gentle breeze.  I wish I had a

full day here - I would recommend spending 2 nights here - 3 hours was not

enough.  The boat ride back was a tad long. There is a boat taxi from Bol to

Jelsa but not sure of the times. Had a small dinner at Farina - the huge

patio is underneath a huge canopy of grape vines with clusters of grapes

within arms reach. Restaurant seem to cater more to larger groups and

families.  Had a hvar plate (ham, pag cheese, sardines and sea food salad)

and carpet shells (briny clams) Met Milan, an illustrator I work with, who

is now living in Hvar with his wife , Kiko,  for drinks. Sitting in the

front of the cathedral - kids playing soccer, outdoor cafes buzzing, the

square leading my eyes to the boats at the opposite end, the church bells

ringing - why can't America have public spaces like this? After drinks went

to bed early.

Day 6 -

Woke up early to clear blue skies - however due to winds the Blue Grotto

tours had been moved to the next day - decided to rent a scooter again and

go to Jelsa, Verboska and the south side of the island.   Early morning

light sparkles off the water - the sweeping views of the surrounding islands

was dreamy and made me constantly pull over to take it all in.  Headed to

Jelsa - another sleepy town which is wonderful to just walk around and get

lost in - the gentle breezes rustle the pomegranite trees which hung over

the walls.   Decided to go to Zatvala - which is on the south side of the

island.  To get to this town you must drive through a very long, dark

one-car width tunnel - and the control light was not working. To say the

least it was a bit unnerving and then once out of the tunnel you must do

numerous tight switch backs. Going down wasn't so hard but coming back up

concerned me. Found a smooth peebled beach - the island Scredo opposite.

Laid out and swam for a few hours then had lunch at Skalinada - gnocci with

gorgonzola, fresh caught fish fillet with potatos and zuchinni and the house

white. I saw the chef buying this huge fish for a family of 6 - he had a few

extra fillets left over. It was so fresh and all for 150 kn, tip included.

Had promised Milan and Kiko I woud stop by their house in Verbanja - I found

the town but not their house.  After 45 minutes of driving around  -

shouting "MILAN! KIKO!" - I took off for Verbroska because I wanted another

swim. A small town with bridges spanning a central canal which opens to a

harbor. Pulled off numerous times to take a swim - around 5 pm iI realized

that sunset from the Fortress should be perfect.  I raced back to Hvar - the

sun slowly setting behind the mountains and the temperature getting cooler.

The belvederes along the way kept making me stop, pull out my camera and my

video cam.  I dropped the bike off around 6:30 and  raced up the mountain to

the Fortress to watch sunset. Clouds of purples and oranges, slate blue

storm clouds, rain and lightning on the horizon, purple islands - the sunset

was framed by two thunderstorms on the horizon with lightening. Had dinner

at Memego again - an Italian couple from Venice was sat at the same table.

Through broken English and Italian we talked and laughed - they insisted I

let them know when I visit Venice so they can show me around. They

mentioned that this was the 7th time to Croatia and maybe, just maybe,

they liked Sardenia a bit more.

[marktynernyc]

Day 7

Woke early to see if the Blue Grotto was a go - unfortunately partly cloudy

skies cancelled the excursion. I was able to appraise what excusrion the

taxi boats were offering that day and decide to go to Piscena (50 kn), which

I read had interesting caves also. Had espresso at one one of the cafes on

the square then went to the farmers market and bought some home-made wine in

a plastic bottle and some dried figs. The boat left at 10:30 and took about

30 minutes to get to the caves - Michael dropped anchor and we passengers

swam around the caves for about 30 minutes. We then went to Piscena, which

is a smooth pebbled cove tucked in between some mountains. Everyone spread

out a polite distance from each other. At first the group of British girls

kept talking and talking but as the sun got higher in the sky, the clouds

disappated and with the repetive surge of the sea - the tranquility of the place

settled down upon everyone. Michael also has a restaurant at the cove -

eating at is optional and additonal money.  I walked up to see him stoking

the grill with wood - he told me lunch would be ready in a few hours.

Around 1 Michael came down to the beach with complimentry glasses of Prosec.

We talked about Prosec and I was surprised to learn that there is a wide

range of Prosec - even a white one.  Between the home made wine and figs, going

for swims, napping underneath a warm sun, watching sailboats and yatchs go

by, the sound of crickets, the blue green clear cool water - I realized that

for the past 6 days I had been runnning around and had not really kicked

backed - this was the perfect last day for me (I'll do the Blue Grotto next year).

Around 3 I went up for lunch - ham, a whole grilled fish (180 kn) and the

house white. Adding tip the total came to  250 kn - a wondeful meal and

setting.  We left the cove at 5.  During the summer there is a music program

with students practicing in the gallery in front of the Palace Hotel -

tonight they were giving a concert( 30 kn) to benefit the Arsenal. All week

as I had been leaving the hotel I would hear flautists practicing - I

attended their performance. Afterwards I had another dreamy meal outside

Macondo - the lobster spaghetti contained a tail and one claw - the meat was

so sweet and tender, 2nd class fish with roasted vegetables, house white and

prosec for dessert . (Milan had informed me that in Croatia they have 1st

class fish, 2nd class fish and 3rd class fish all priced accordingly, as are

scooters) The walkway had emptied out and I was alone - sitting underneath

lamps swaying in the breeze, Ella Fitzgerald in the background.

Departure

8 am - one last walk along the harbour and an espresso at one of the outdoor

cafes. The catamaran ferry left at 9 am and I arrived back in Split in1

hour. The Croatian Airline bus arrives at the terminal 1 1/2 hours before

their departing flight to take you to the airport (30 kn).  The flight home

was uneventful - Lufthansa is a nice airline - Franfurt looks to be a great

jump off point. Got home around 9:30 pm but unfortunately the kennel was

already closed - coming home to an empty apartment made me a bit meloncholy.

Picked up my dog next morning and got back to the work routine. Next

destination: Istanbul.

[marktynernyc]

misc. price list:

8.50 kn - 1 liter of mineral water

8 kn - 2 scoops of gelatto / ice cream

300 kn - scooter rental for 4 to 12 hrs

6 kn - single espresso

15 kn - 1/2  kilo of dried figs

10 kn - admission to the fortress

55 kn - roll o f 100 ASA slide film (ow!)

40 kn - a bottle of homemade rekija

40 kn - boat taxi to Palminzana

150 kn - boat excursion to Bol, includes lunch

250 kn - boat excursion to the Blue and Green Caves and Vis

2 - 3 kn - postcard

12 kn - glass of Prosec

300 kn - 1st class whole grilled fish  

500 kn - grill 1 kilo lobster

40 kn - 1 liter of house wine

100 - 210 kn - for bottle of wine ordered in restaurant

22 kn - fast catamaran from Hvar to Split (a little over 1 hr)

33 kn - slow ferry from Split to Hvar

30 kn - Croatia Airline bus from Split Airport to Town Terminal

5 kn - to store luggage for 2 hrs while in Split

30 kn - girice ( small fried fish)

50 - 70 kn - Dalmatian ham

60 kn - risotto "frutti de mare"

120 kn - spaghetti with lobster

Any questions, please feel free to ask.......

[fresh_a]

What's a "kn", and how much is it in other currencies?

[marktynernyc]

Croatian currency - kuna ($1 US = 6.32 kn)

check out this currency conversion website:

http://www.oanda.com/convert/cheatsheet

[paulbrussel]

Nice post! And I know everything about kn now (and I will keep my mouth shut about Ibiza when you want to talk about Croatia! )

[maher]

going to croatia for a sailing vacation next week. i need tips on places to eat, markets anything i should look out for in Split, Dubrovnick, or anything in between? anyone with info please let me know i am going in blind

thanks

[Dan Ryan]

A friend's recommendation for Split is Šumica (pronounced shoo-mits-ah) on Put Firula. He also says that Dubrovnik is a gastronomic wasteland, but there are good restaurants a-plenty on the small island of Trogir and indeed in Split itself. I know there are some good places on the islands of Hvar, Korčula and Vis, but I haven't got the names to hand now. Be careful with your choices - many places are rip-off joints that serve frozen fish.

Good fish to try are zubatac (dentex) and any of the breams, which all have about fifty different names.

You should also try some good home-made travarica - a herbal grappa/schnapps.

[maher]

thanks Dan

any chance of getting some of those names? i will certainly be trying as many of the local spirits as i can locate!!

[maher]

thanks Dan

any chance of getting some of those names? i will certainly be trying as many of the local spirits as i can locate!!

[maher]

thanks Dan

any chance of getting some of those names? i will certainly be trying as many of the local spirits as i can locate!!

[maher]

thanks Dan

any chance of getting some of those names? i will certainly be trying as many of the local spirits as i can locate!!

[marktynernyc]

Was in Croatia at the beginning of September.

Stayed in Zadar for 5 nights and Hvar for 6 nights.

Zadar is a true crossroads - a mix of Croatian,

Italian, Hapsburg and modern architecture - a real city.

Hvar was again a wonderful retreat. Every day was

cloudless blue sky. I'llposta brief trip report after

the restaurants.

Zadar

Fosa

Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2

023.314.421

Located just outside the Land Gate, with a huge terrace that

over looks a small harbor.  I ordered some Dalmatian ham (49 kn),

Pag cheese (38 kn) and house white (1L, 27 kn) while looking over

the menu.  Their ham was probably the best I had during my whole

trip - it was smoky, silky on the tongue - the right balance of fat

and meat, thinly sliced.   I decided to try the marinated anchovies

(35 kn) and the frutti de mare risotto (55 kn).  The marinated

anchovies were presented very simply - a drizzle of olive oil.

Pleasant and fresh. The risotto was great - the mussels, scampi

and clams, the toothy rice.

Kornat

Liburnska obala 6, Zadar

023.254.501

In Your pocket ( http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/zadar/en/ )  

state: "...looking really good on its Riva setting, with a delightful,

refined interior. A classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities,

a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town.

Although the menu is basically inclined to Dalmatian and inland

Croatian cuisine, the chef is quite inventive..." After being seated

the waiter brought a little amuse - a dish with fish pate and a couple

of fresh anchovies. I started with tuna carpaccio ( 65 kn) - a substantial

plate of thinly sliced tuna carpaccio on rocket greens , sprinkled with

huge, fat juicy capers. This dish was wonderful - it wasn't until the end

that I tried it with a drizzle of olive oil. Next I tried the gnocci with

Dalmatian ham and rocket (30 kn) - a creamy light sauce, fluffy light

gnocci, strips of Dalmatian ham and wilted rocket - very nice. For my

main dish I tried the fish fillet with scampi sauce (100 kn) - which was

fine.   The waiter recommended a white - Debit, Bibich (120 kn) - which

was pleasant and complimented the meal.  I enjoyed my meal here so

much I came back for dinner the next night.  Started with a glass of

Travarica, Croatian grappa, (10 kn) then tried their Dalmatian ham (45 kn) -

which was chewier, thicker, not smoked. Gnocci with gorgonzola and pine

nuts (40 kn), was so good I almost licked the plate. Lamb in a rosemary +

red wine sauce (65 kn) was tender and properly cooked.   For wine I had

a Babic, Vinopiod (170 kn) - a deep red and a nice match to the ham,

gnocci and lamb. Also, the restaurant has a very stylish modern ambience.

[marktynernyc]

Trata

Jerolima Viduliæa 5

098 532 057

Located behind the Forum, "this konoba is set in

the most stunning of sheltered gardens with the

foundations of a 2nd century Roman temple dedicated

to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva as its centerpiece". Trata

is a large fishing net. I ordered the octopus salad which

had potatoes mixed into it, which was a nice contrast to

the firm octopus (40 kn) and Dalmatian ham. For my

main dish, I ordered the trata stew - which consisted

of fish, scampi, shrimps and potatoes cooked in a tomato

paprika broth. It was very well seasoned and flavorful but

the numerous bones were a bit problematic. The garden

is so pleasant I came back the next afternoon for some

more ham and house wine. The owner comped me

dessert - Anatasia's dream - fresh yogurt and berries,

thicken with a bit of gelatin - tart and juicy - a real treat.

Roko

Put Dikla 74

023.331.000

This restaurant was vote one of Croatia's top 100

restaurants last year - they specialize in seafood, their

menu has very little meat - you'll need to take a cab to

get there. In the center of the restaurant is a huge tank

containing lobsters. I decided to indulge and order a

whole lobster, grilled - and at 400 kn for 1 KG, it was a

definite indulgence. I also order some razor clams (80n kn)

as a primi - which were served in a garlic herbed sauce.

The lobster arrived split in half and grilled, along with an

aoili type sauce. The smoke from the grill infused the

lobster meat with a wonderful aroma. The flavor was pleasant -

maybe a bit dry - and only cost 260 kn. For wine I had a liter

of the house white (50 kn). Roko is very popular with the

locals and gets crowded in the evening.

Restaurant Zadar

Vl. Stanko Miletic

023.212.182

This is the only restaurant I found with outside seating, located

on the Riva Nova, where you can catch the sun setting over the

Zadar archipelago. I ordered a few appetizers - frutti de mare

salad which had mussels, lobster, shrimp, tomatoes, garlic,

lemon, olives - very good. Girice - small fish that were breaded

and fried - I love these when their hot, a squeeze of lemon, pop 'em

into your mouth whole - the only problem, the serving was huge so

I was only able to get through half before they were cold. And some

Dalmatian ham again. Watching the sun set, the ferries and boast

going by, people walking along the Riva Nova - this is a beautiful

setting. I watch the colors of the sky shift from pinks and oranges

to violet to deep blue while also reflected in the water.

[marktynernyc]

Hvar

Kogo

St. Stephan square

This place and Alviz (located near the bus station,

behind St. Stephan) were recommended as the best

places for pizza in Hvar.  This was my this first time

for trying Croatian pizza (35 kn) - not bad - fluffy crust,

a sprinkling of dried herbs - a pleasant lunch.   And

the location on the square can't be beat.

Menego

Hvar Grad

http://www.menego.hr/

Dinko is still serving great food - the slovenia sausage was

spicy, the marinated anchovies were prepared differently this

time and bit more subtle in flavor but very meaty, the goat

cheese and honey was a nice finish. My waiter also told me

the order in which to eat the dishes - sausage, fish then cheese.

The local goat cheese isn't firm nor tart like chevere - it had a more

cottage cheese like consistency But what was truly remarkable

was the house white - I have never tasted a wine that reminded

me of fresh bread - it was really wonderful ( I know this sound a

bit odd). His wife's family owns a vineyard on St. Klement.  

For dessert I had the drunken figs again and some of Dinko's

homemade liquors.