Classic Southern Cooking

[Varmint]

As I planned our vacation to the mountains of North Carolina, I had done a bit of research regarding local food places of interest. I found what appeared to be a cutting edge organic farm, lots of places to get fresh trout, and even an old-fashioned meat shop. I was struggling to find a restaurant nearby that served well-prepared, classic Southern fare. My problem was that I was looking for places in North Carolina and hadn't expanded my search to Georgia, the border of which was only 25 minutes from our cabin. In the northern parts of Rabun County, Georgia, is the Dillard House, one of the grandest institutions of traditional Southern cuisine.

The Dillard House has been around since 1917, housing and feeding tourists and locals alike. Started as a small boarding house, it now has over 70 guest rooms and 25 cottages. Most of the people come here for the food, however. This was quite obvious during our recent visit when the dining room was filled for a Tuesday lunch by 11:45 AM.

The meals at the Dillard House are served family style. I wasn't aware of that when we walked into the lobby and saw the day's menu posted on the wall. I was struggling to decide what meats and vegetables I was going to eat. As we approached the dining room, I saw the waiters carrying huge trays of food – and I smiled. Family style. This is the way that all Southern meals should be served. It fosters communality; it encourages sampling different dishes; it allows us to combine dishes to create new tastes.

As we took our seats, the table already had food on it, waiting for us -- freshly sliced tomatoes, cole slaw, chow chow, cantaloupe, honeydew, and green onions – all grown locally. Looking at all these items, my oldest son, Everett, asked me, "Dad, is this a kid friendly place? Do they have a kids' menu?" (You can now figure out the inspiration behind my diatribe against kids' menus!) I calmly advised Everett that he needn't worry, as there would be plenty of good things for him to eat.

He was quite pleased when the bread baskets arrived, containing small biscuits, fluffy yeast rolls, and corn muffins. Before the L'il Varmints had a chance to get a single bite into their mouths, the food parade began. It started with the meats. Fried chicken. Barbecued chicken. Country style steak smothered in gravy. Country ham. Chicken stew with biscuits. We caught our breath, and then the side dishes came on the next delivery. Green beans cooked in fat back. Fried okra. Limas. Acorn squash soufflé laced with honey and cinnamon. Cabbage casserole. Creamed corn. Parsley potatoes. They also brought out hush puppies in case we hadn't received enough bread. To paraphrase Maurice Sendak, we let the wild rumpus begin.

The L'il Varmints started slowly, trying some chicken, some bread, a bit of country ham. I dared Everett to try the squash soufflé – his grin will always be etched in my memory. My 7 year old daughter, Ryan, began to challenge her older brother to see who would try more different items. She won, trying everything but the cabbage casserole (c'mon, what child wants warm cabbage casserole?). Everett's downfall was the creamed corn -- he wouldn't go there. My 4 year old son, Benjamin, joined in the festivities, eating tons of ham and limas. Our youngest, Clara (2) was very happy with her green beans and chicken. Me? I ate plenty of every single item on the table. My stomach still hasn't recovered.

Oh, and then they brought out some fresh peach shortcake for desserved. The ice cream had melted a bit too much, but it was homemade. Plus, the peaches were damn fine.

So if you're in the northern mountains of Georgia, near the town of Dillard, make sure you stop by to have a little "snack" at the Dillard House. And tell them Varmint says "Hey."

The relish sampler on the table as you arrive.

Fried chicken and chicken stew with biscuits.

Barbecued chicken. They also served a sauce on the side with this.

Country style steak. Tastes better than it looks.

Country ham. Notice it's bone-in ham!

Veggies!

Ryan on her way to win the contest.

Benjamin letting you see how much he likes lima beans.

Peach cobbler.

[Lyle]

Thanks for the pics.

*Edited out a stupid question. Apparantly I can't read.*

Edited July 31, 2003 by Lyle (log)

[Eric_Malson]

Man, now I'm sadder than ever that I never made it there. During my two extended stays in Atlanta, I never knew anyone with a car to whom good food was important enough to make the trek up there (taking me along, natch!). It's the one place that I thought I couldn't miss from what I had read about it, and now Varmint's narrative and pictures confirm that suspicion!

I have to wipe the drool off my keyboard now...

[meatman]

Varmit,

I know a place that is very similar to the Dillard House and it's in North Carolina!! It's in a small town outside of West Jefferson called Shatley Springs. The restaurant is called Shatley Springs as well, if my memory serves me well. Same great spread. Fried chicken(skillet fried), country ham, BBQ chicken and too many vegtables to remember. Everything was family style and it was excellent. I would leave there barley capable of driving back down the mountains to Boone.

The place has a real live spring on the property and small guest cabins circa 1940's. I believe it was a place where folks went to eat and "take the waters" for a cure It's been a few years since I've been there, but I will bet it's still going strong. All I can remember is it was north of West Jefferson,way out in the country.

There was another joint like it in downtown Boone, right near the university called the Daniel Boone Inn, but that place was bogus with frozen store bought country food.

Let me know if you find out anything about Shatley Springs.

[Zeb A]

It is 9:30 pm, and I have not eaten today. Those pictures just killed me.

Sounds like a neat place. Thanks for the report.

Where is Everett?

[Varmint]

The E-man's photo didn't turn out, unfortunately. I borrowed a friend's digital camera to take these shots, as I'm still in analog world.

[Varmint]

By the way, I forgot to provide a link to the Dillard House's website. Here it is: http://www.dillardhouse.com

[Smoky "T"]

Varmit, I'v been lurking around this exellent site for awhile now but havn't posted much. Just want to tell you how much I have enjoyed your posts.

I had the pleasure of visiting the Dillard house about 7 years ago. Very good Southeren home cooking, but what really stood up a brought me to heaven was the sliced tomato's! They were from a farm down the road. I remember those juicey warm globs of sunshine to this day every time I eat what is usually a dissapointing tomato.

This post made me almost taste them once agian.

Thank-you

Smoky "T"

[Varmint]

Yes, all the veggies were very fresh. I can't wait to get back to Dillard!

[Jaymes]

Made me feel just like I was sitting back at the big table in my grandmother's country kitchen.

Oh my.

I miss you, Sugar Mama.

[Rachel Perlow]

I have a feeling that the cabins are a sort of Catch22 arrangement -- you eat so much at the restaurant you have to take a nap before driving home. But then you sleep all night and are hungry again so you go back to the restaurant...