Where to eat in Paris in August?

[Louisa Chu]

pim, I never thought I'd wish for that thick Sunset district fog over Paris! Some of that - and some real Thai food please! The heat's supposed to break by Wednesday so you may be in luck - but it's supposed to rain so bring the umbrella - or not. I plan to soak it up gratefully.

[marlena spieler]

He said his 11 year old "complemented" the waiter on the food at Ducasse by telling him their fries were "as good as McDonald's!"

you know, i always hated mcdonalds french fries (too salty, too greasy, too thin, too heavy)...and then, just the fact that i don't like to support major big chains of any sort, etc if i can help it...so, can you imagine my amusement when i had lunch with several well-known french foodies and they discussed the merits of mcdonalds "frites"!

was i scandalized? you bet!

(and felt very affectionately towards my colleagues as well).

[Carlsbad]

We leave a week from tomorrow for two weeks in Paris. I have reservations for every night except our last night, Monday the 1st of August. Nothing on my list seems to be open that night, except Bofinger, and we are going there the night before. Does anyone have a suggestion?

[vserna]

Lots of places are open. The best Paris restaurant (IMHO), L'Arpège, will be open. So will another 'Relais Gourmand', the controversial Hélène Darroze (still, two Michelin stars) – it's open for dinner every Monday in summer. I am not the greatest fan of Pierre Gagnaire – but he will be open too! The Espadon at the Ritz will be open, as will Les Ambassadeurs at the Crillon. Likewise Goumard, the successor to the historic Prunier, with its top-notch seafood. Also, Il Cortile, the Italian restaurant run by Alain Ducasse in the Castille Hotel (they close August 2nd). Also open, Chamarré – one of the most interesting newer restaurants in Paris, with its Mauritius roots. Eric Fréchon's Bristol Hotel restaurant is open all year 'round.

[BigboyDan]

You won't need reservations for many places, except the very touristy and/or multi-starred. But, Bofinger is a good choice for your last night.

[John Talbott]

We leave a week from tomorrow for two weeks in Paris.  I have reservations for every night except our last night, Monday the 1st of August.  Nothing on my list seems to be open that night, except Bofinger, and we are going there the night before.  Does anyone have a suggestion?

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As is apparent, I favor somewhat newer and less pricey places than the above; as such, I suggest Au Bon Acceuil + Chez les Anges.

My August rule is to distrust all published info about openings/closings and always doublecheck by telephone. (Over the years I've found that August is the time, despite the paucity of workpeople, that places suddenly decide to put in new tiles or a water heater - plus, one guidebook's idea of the "last two weeks" of August may differ from the resto's.)

[Carlsbad]

Thanks for the suggestions. After two weeks of eating, I doubt our mood (or pocketbook) will be wanting anything approaching Arpege. We already have a reservation at Au Bon Accueil earlier in the trip, but we could always repeat. Chez les Anges sounds like a good choice, also. I guess I could also move Bofinger to the last night, but then I'd have to find another Sunday spot. It's nice to have such problems.

[John Talbott]

We already have a reservation at Au Bon Accueil earlier in the trip, but we could always repeat.  Chez les Anges sounds like a good choice, also. 

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Despite the fact that they are both run by the same folks and that Madame has moved to Chez les Anges, I've found the food quite a bit different.

[menton1]

I don't know what area you will be staying in, but, all that you need to do is take a stroll around the neighborhood, check the menus, check the ambience, and pop in. The casual/bistro/brasserie places won't require a reservation, and Paris is unlike the counrtyside-- therre are always restaurants open! Also, all restaurants have their menus prominently posted, so that you can make your choice after seeing the menu.

There are some wonderful gems to be found, even if they are not well-known!

[jogoode]

I'm in Paris now and thought I'd revive this thread. It's my first time here and haven't yet figured out which restaurants--I'm looking for inexpensive bistros and brasseries--are open. Happily, Marie Cantin is open all summer--Barthelemy and Androuet are closed--so at least I've got my cheese fix fixed. Any new realizations about open restaurants? Thanks for the cityvox recommendation.

[Felice]

I'm in Paris now and thought I'd revive this thread. It's my first time here and haven't yet figured out which restaurants--I'm looking for inexpensive bistros and brasseries--are open. Happily, Marie Cantin is open all summer--Barthelemy and Androuet are closed--so at least I've got my cheese fix fixed. Any new realizations about open restaurants? Thanks for the cityvox recommendation.

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Yves Camdeborde's Le Comptoir is open this week, but will be closing for a week starting this Sunday.

And I know Le Verre Volé is open because I'm going there tonight. I'll see if they are closing.

Also, you should pick up a copy of Zurban, a great cultural magazine available in news kiosks each week. They've been doing a section "open this week" en francais, bien sur. John probably has it in his weekly digest.

Chez Remaulaud, which is a place I've always wanted to try, was listed last week.

I'm not sure what kind of places you are looking for, but I had a drink along the Canal at a place called Point Ephemere last week and thought it was great. It looks like a old warehouse that they've transformed into a cultural center which has art exhibits, dance, and other events. They also have an outdoor restaurant ,but as I haven't been, I can't tell you how it is. It's nice because if they don't have tables left for a drink you can just sit along the canal. This is NOT near the main part of canal Saint Martin though, it's near the metro Jaures. Fun for the adventurous, looking for something different. 186 quai de Valmy, 01 40 34 02 48. Open for lunch and dinner.

If I think of any others I'll let you know.

Edited August 4, 2005 by Felice (log)

[Bux]

Most brasseries are open on Sunday. Brasseries are always a fall back place for us on Sundays. I don't mean to imply that they're not suitable at any other time, it's just that we often save them for Sundays. Brasseries are also the one traditional place in Paris where one can usually eat at odd hours. We've had reasonably good meals at the Flo Group brasseries, although many others complain about the decline in each since it was taken over by the group. In any event, almost all of them are worth visiting just for the interiors.

In general, and they all use the same suppliers, they're a good reliable place to order andouillette. No one shold leave Paris without trying one. Of course that's assuming you accept the premise that everyone should learn to love tripe. My choice of beverage would be a decent, relatively inexpensive crisp white Burgundy. More complex dishes can be hit or miss at a brasserie. Steak frites, choucroute garni, sausages, etc. are all good bets, oysters in winter, etc., stuff that's simple to prepare.

Vaudeville with it's art deco marble interior is a favorite although I haven't been there lately. Brasserie Flo is worth a look as well. I only stopped in there to have oysters years ago and in the winter. Marty in the far reaches of the 5th arr. is not part of the Flo group and a place I'd like to try sometime. I've heard reports they're unfriendly to tourists and especially non French speaking Americans. I can't confirm that. If you have time, search threads for brasseries and for Vaudeville, Balzar and Julien. Pity "Flo" is a three letter name and thus no seach.

[John Talbott]

I am away from my library and archives so I'm of little help. Next year we'll post a list well in advance since there are enough good places open.

However, aside from the terrific ideas thrown out so far, in addition to the Michelin, buy Lebey and Pudlo and frequently one of the three will have accurate dates. Unfortunately, since they're written in November-January, they're often inexact and calling is the the only way to be certain the two weeks of August they are closed are 1st or middle or last ones.

I do not yet have Zurban's list of places open this week. By the time I post them in the Digest it'll be too late anyway (there's so little news in August I'll probably just have two posts) - Felice - why not put them up yourself please? - from PM's and posts I'm aware lots of members are in Paris right now and need help.

[Carlsbad]

We had dinner at Le Violon d'Ingres last week, and they had only one five course menu available (no a la carte) at 80E, and I think that they said they were going to serve it through August. The food was very good, if a bit simplified (especially the cheese course), and a relative bargain since the usual tasting menu is 110E. The place was deserted though. We saw Chef Constant at Cafe Constant as we walked to the restaurant, and the cafe was packed. You might check to see if any of the three Constant places are open when you are there.

Bofinger is another of the Flo brasseries you might consider. It's a beautiful place. The food isn't all that exciting, but if you keep it simple, you can eat well for a reasonable price.

We enjoyed Clos des Gourmets very much, and Michelin says they are open until Aug. 10. I'd go back there in a minute.

Mon Vieil Ami opens again mid August, and I thought it was terrific- one of the stars of the trip.

Bastide Odéon is open (according to Michelin) until the 8th. I thought the food was interesting and quite good, the surroundings were cool on a hot night, the service was cordial, and the price was right.

I really enjoyed Le Pamphlet, and Michelin and Pudlo say they are open until the 8th. They have some interesting, reasonably priced wines and interesting, well prepared food at good prices. The owner is a bit grumpy, but in a nice way.

And finally, you might check on Ze Kitchen Galerie. We didn't (John Talbott recommended it, but I couldn't get past the name), but I asked the very knowledgeable young waiter at Mon Vieil Ami where he would go for a special night, and he said there. From the advice he gave us on the food and wine, I would say he knows what he is talking about. As does M. Talbott.

[jogoode]

Thanks, everyone! Cityvox seems to indicate that Regalade, Bon Acceuil and Le Comptoir are open, so I'll probably call those tonight--in English, unfortunately, so who knows whether I'll be able to find out if any are open and reserve a table. I'll report.

[Felice]

I do not yet have Zurban's list of places open this week.  By the time I post them in the Digest it'll be too late anyway (there's so little news in August I'll probably just have two posts) - Felice - why not put them up yourself please?  - from PM's and posts I'm aware lots of members are in Paris right now and need help.

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Sure, here are last week's:

Le Cambodge--which I've been to and it's a great little inexpensive Cambodian place off the Canal Saint Martin in the 10th. Normally you have to get there at 8pm cause if not, you won't get a table as people are waiting outside for them to open. (10 avenue Richerand, 10th)

Pizzeria Enzo: Good pizza in the 14th. 72 rue Daguerre, closed Sat and Sun

L'Ecume Saint Honore: I've always wanted to try this place actually as it's been written up a few times. It's a poissonnerie that has a little restaurant in back. Might be a good choice for lunch. 6 rue du Marche-Saint Honore.

Midi Vins 83 rue du Cherche Midi, 6th. Wine Bar. Closed Sun and Mon. Menu 20 Euros. From the review it sounds like a good place to stop by if you are in the area, but not to make a special trip for.

This week's

Les Caves Saint Gilles--spanish tapas in the 3rd. 4 rue Saint Gilles.

Mum Sabai chic Thai in the 6th. 5 rue Bernard Palissy.

Le Kiosque: Cuisine by a student of Ducasse. 1 place de Mexico, 16th.

Chez Vincent Popular italien in the 19th. 5 rue de Tunnel.

Edited August 5, 2005 by Felice (log)

[Felice]

Thanks, everyone! Cityvox seems to indicate that Regalade, Bon Acceuil and Le Comptoir are open, so I'll probably call those tonight--in English, unfortunately, so who knows whether I'll be able to find out if any are open and reserve a table. I'll report.

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Seems like CityVox isn't very up to date. I just called Au Bon Accueil and they are closing tonight for two weeks. La Regalade has a voice message saying they are closed until Aug. 22 and I was just at Le Comptoir on Wednesday and they are closed from 7-14 and will reopen on Monday the 15th.

Edited August 5, 2005 by Felice (log)

[John Talbott]

And finally, you might check on Ze Kitchen Galerie.  We didn't (John Talbott recommended it, but I couldn't get past the name), but I asked the very knowledgeable young waiter at Mon Vieil Ami where he would go for a special night, and he said there.  From the advice he gave us on the food and wine, I would say he knows what he is talking about.   As does M. Talbott.

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Carlsbad, I cannot tell you how long it took me to get past the name; but it's worth it, day in and day out. And don't listen to the NY & LA folks who tell you they can get the same food every day at home; they can't.

Thanks too Felice; I ate at Regalade last August 24th, the anniversary of the day of the liberation of Paris, so that info sounds correct.

No one should despair about August; between the guidebooks and telephone, there's no cause for worry.

Edited August 25, 2005 by John Talbott (log)

[jogoode]

Seems like CityVox isn't very up to date.    I just called Au Bon Accueil and they are closing tonight for two weeks.  La Regalade has a voice message saying they are closed until Aug.  22 and I was just at Le Comptoir on Wednesday and they are closed from 7-14 and will reopen on Monday the 15th.

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I stopped by Le Comptoir yesterday and had a nice lunch. Pied de porc pan-fried, simple salad, and a small glass bowl of delicious pureed potatoes with gravy. My girlfriend had a big salad nicoise with horseradish dressing. Prices were very reasonable, about 12 Euros a plate. I hope to go back before they go on vacation, but doubt I'll be able to.

[Felice]

I've been invited to go to Aux Lyonnais tonight, so that's open as well and would be another good choice.

[docsconz]

I've been invited to go to Aux Lyonnais tonight, so that's open as well and would be another good choice.

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I would love to read your impressions.

[fresh_a]

Cityvox is crap. I would never use them, as their writers don't know anything about Paris...

Edited August 6, 2005 by fresh_a (log)

[jogoode]

I've been invited to go to Aux Lyonnais tonight, so that's open as well and would be another good choice.

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Ahh, I'd love to go there! Of course, I checked cityvox and I believe it said Aux Lyonnais was closed in August.

[Felice]

I've been invited to go to Aux Lyonnais tonight, so that's open as well and would be another good choice.

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Ahh, I'd love to go there! Of course, I checked cityvox and I believe it said Aux Lyonnais was closed in August.

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Well, unfortunately the person who invited me hadn't checked and it is indeed closed until the end of the month. It sounded too good to be true. We went to some trendy, but not very good place near L'Etoile.

Sorry for giving false hopes!

[John Talbott]

I'm back to my notes on what's open in August. The following places reported that they were open everyday (all but the last three are relatively new or have new chefs and come from the Digests of 2004 and 2005)

BUT CAUTION: I don't trust what they told the reviewers/fact-checkers/etc, and even though they might be open everyday from September to July, one has to check oneself about August:

La Gare

Cafe de l'Homme

Le Polidor

123

Cafe Guitry

Caffe Leffe

l'Actuel

Thoumieux

Cap Vernet

Hotel du Nord

Barlotti

Duke's Bar

Le Passage

Le Soleil

Les Galopins

Chez Flottes

Bouillion des Colonies

Noura Pavillion

l'Absinthe Cafe

Autour de...

46 Avenue

Bistrot B

La Plage Parisienne

Le Pub St-Germain

Vin de Soif

Bouquet des Archives

Petrus

La Chopotte

Les Couleurs

Fontaine de Mars

Refectoire

Casa Alcade

Bistro du Dome

l'Etoile Marocain