Olive Oil & Salt

[Jim Dixon]

I'll be selling olive oil and salt, the newest product in my mini-empire of imported foods (and, hopefully, an excuse to travel to Portugal as well as Italy), at the Portland Farmers Market this Saturday (6/28....PFM is in the Park Blocks near Portland State).

The salt is Portuguese flor de sal (which is what the Portuguese call fleur de sel) and comes from the Slow Food award-winning company Necton. Necton is run by marine biologists working to restore coastal wetlands

in Portugal's Algarve region. You can read more about the company and their salt ]in this article from the March 2002 Atlantic Monthly. A slightly different version of the same piece appears in Kummer's book about Slow Food.

I'm usually next to Fred Carlo's sausage stand, so just follow your nose to the smell of frying pork, onions, and peppers.

Jim

edited to get the link to work

[KNorthrup]

Do you ever do the Wed/Thurs versions?

[Jim Dixon]

K...

Since I don't actually grow the olives (or evaporate the salt), I'm considered a broker and am restricted to one day per month. So I only sell on certain Saturdays (the dates are on my site).

I'm usually at the Wed market, though, since I work a couple of blocks away. I usually don't go the Thursday market unless I'll be selling the following Sat.

My low-budget marketing approach is handing out recipes that use seasonal produce and olive oil...and I've been known to carry a bottle or two with me just in case somebody needs one. But the Market board prefers that I not sell oil out of my pack, so I have to make the sale off-site.

It's like....psst...wannna buy some oil?

Jim

[Bux]

Since I don't actually grow the olives (or evaporate the salt), I'm considered a broker and am restricted to one day per month.

I was wondering what sort of "farmer's" market they operated. It's not that brokers don't have something to offer, but in NY the Union Square greenmarket has a waiting list for spots and just about everything has to be sold by the people who grew, raised or made it. If you bake, you don't have to grow your own wheat and if you have a stand, you're also allowed to sell your neighbor's stuff. So the vegetable guy may also have a neighbor's eggs to offer.

[Jim Dixon]

There's always (always being the 10 years or so the PFM's been around) been some tension between those who'd prefer a 'pure' farmers market with only local produce and those who see the market as a sort of cooks' resource to local food vendors.

Here's the stated mission:

The mission of the Portland Farmers Market is to enhance the business success of our region's small farms by operating vibrant urban farmers markets that serve as community gathering places.

In support of this mission we will:

-Foster commercial and educational relationships between our vendors and city-dwellers.

-Serve as a small business incubator for local farms and artisan food producers.

-Enhance the region's quality of life by encouraging environmentally sound agriculture and access to local, healthier foods.

The more detailed vendor rules (available here as a Word download) pretty much give the board complete discretion in picking vendors. So we end up with national restaurant chain Il Fornaio selling bread alongside small local bakers, and a few prepared food vendors, such as the kettle corn folks, that may seem a better fit for the county fair. Produce vendors are also allowed to sell some things they don't actually grow, but the amount is restricted...they can also sell some related items, like the goat cheese maker selling soap or the honey guy selling beeswax candles.

There are several different farmers markets in Portland (and more in the suburbs), and they have slight variations in their rules. I know one guy who sells incredible wild mushrooms and other foraged products to most of the best restaurants in town, but the PFM won't let him in because he doesn't actually pick all the mushrooms himself (even though they had specifically asked him to be a vendor in the early years...he's a little bitter about the whole farmers market movement).

I can offer all kinds of rationalizations for offering the olive oil at the market (purely agricultural product, produced by small farmers who just happen to be in Italy, compliments the produce, obvious demand based on my sales, etc), but the farmers market works for me because I can connect with the local food community (the best chefs all shop at the PFM), I can tell the story about the olive oils to new customers, and the shoppers there are willing to spend more for quality.

And on the days I don't sell, I operate my own personal 'oil for food' program, trading olive oil for produce, cheese, fish, and meat.

Jim

[trillium]

There's always (always being the 10 years or so the PFM's been around) been some tension between those who'd prefer a 'pure' farmers market with only local produce and those who see the market as a sort of cooks' resource to local food vendors.

In the summer we do all of our grocery shopping at the farmer's market except dairy. When I'm the supreme dictator there will be no kettle corn at the market (nor people standing in the way staring vacantly into space while eating it) no doublewide baby strollers + the family dog groups, no dogs at all actually and I'd be tempted to outlaw strollers too but there might be a revolt, a limit of 3 booths that are selling hot food to eat on the premises only (I hate trying to get past the people in line for pizza and sausage and I hate standing there waiting to get through and breathing sausage smoke...), no nationwide chains and no greenhouse or hydroponic produce (they taste like shit). Foraged and artisan aggie stuff from other countries would be allowed as long as the person selling it was local and the original producers were small. I fall into the "it's there so I can buy my produce" camp and not the "it's a lovely form of entertainment on the weekend" camp. The people there to just eat and gawk really get in the way.

regards,

trillium

[dfunghi]

First let me say hello all. My first post.

Farmers markets are a device to help farmers avoid being at the mercy of brokers and shippers setting prices and instead sell direct to the public by traveling to urban centers with their wares. The public helps set the price with an open market to choose from. Usually 2 or 3 times the price gotten when sold in bulk to a shipper, who by the way takes 30 days to pay versus you and I who pay at point of sale. It is not a device for brokers or shippers or importers etc. to sell their wares. There are stores for rent or shelf space in someone elses store for rent, or swap meets for the food trade. The reason you find farmers markets in the choicest real estate in town is because it is governmant agencies showing reciprosity in the form of cities charging little (5 -6 % gross) rent to the sellers and getting street closures permit free that would otherwise be very expensive. They do this because it is a program sponsered by the dept. of agriculture to support agriculture, not reselers. Call city hall see what they charge to close a street for a few hours. This arrangement is and was designed to give an advantage to farmers, not reselers. Anything other than agriculture products being sold directly by the producer, forager, hearder, etc.. should be kept to a minimum.

The old joke about the farmer who wins 5 million dollars in the lottery and when asked what he plans to do with the money? He replys " Keep farming until the money runs out". Sums up why we neeed and why we must have famers markets and why they should not become a swap meet.

Thank you

D

[mamster]

Hey, didn't I hear a variation of this discussion at the farmer's market on Saturday? We were in Portland, and bought some olive oil from Jim, who also kindly shared some of his Portuguese salt. Plus we got to meet trillium and Quentin, who are very nice (not to be confused with Really Nice!).

Laurie and I both thought the Portland market was a good mix, but then I would probably purchase a sausage-smoke-scented air freshener.

Jim, if I post a photo of you selling olive oil, do you want your face Photoshopped out?

So, since we were at the market anyway, I got stuff to make dinner for her family on Saturday night. I bought an enormous, beautiful cauliflower head, some spinach, strawberries from Persephone farm, and an onion. We also got a pear, rosemary, and chocolate tartlet and a Pixie bar from Pix. I made linguine with meatballs of dark meat chicken, spinach, pine nuts, and breadcrumbs from the previous day's bread from Ken's Artisan Bakery. I browned the meatballs, then simmered them in a red wine agrodolce to cook them through. With that we had roasted cauliflower with lots of Leonforte oil and flor de sal, and strawberries for dessert. I didn't get any of the free range chicken from Greener Pastures, because I didn't think meatballs would do it justice.

I should probably start another thread at this point, but I'm on a roll. We also had a nice lunch at Park Kitchen and made three trips to Ken's, if you include stopping at his stand at the market. Ken's is the best bread I've ever eaten, although admittedly I wasn't a bread nerd yet when we went to France. It is crust and crumb above Grand Central, which is still very good. I've never been to Pearl Bakery, so I can't compare. Ken's baguette, country blonde (sourdough white), and country brown (pain de campagne) are exceptional. He also makes cannelés, which are good, though not any better than nightscotsman's. I really don't understand why Ken Forkish's bread is so great, but I intend to find out. He also makes something I've forgotten the name of (Galette de french name--Jim?), but it's brioche dough, rolled out thin and topped with sugar and orange zest, then baked like a pizza. This should not be missed.

I'll have a little more to say about our trip to Portland soon.

[KNorthrup]

Living two blocks from Ken's is a mixed blessing. Esp when he's doing the single-serving rhubarb upside down cakes.

[Jim Dixon]

Jim, if I post a photo of you selling olive oil, do you want your face Photoshopped out?

I'm tempted to have you substitute another equally handsome face, but in the interest of truth-in-labeling, go ahead and post it unretouched.

Jim

[Jim Dixon]

Esp when he's doing the single-serving rhubarb upside down cakes. 

Saturday he'd switched to apricot, and the cake was just as deadly.

Jim

[LEdlund]

I made linguine with meatballs of dark meat chicken, spinach, pine nuts, and breadcrumbs from the previous day's bread from Ken's Artisan Bakery.  I browned the meatballs, then simmered them in a red wine agrodolce to cook them through. With that we had roasted cauliflower with lots of Leonforte oil and flor de sal, and strawberries for dessert.

Mamster, this meal sounds fantastic! What is agrodolce?

[trillium]

Mamster, this meal sounds fantastic! What is agrodolce?

sour and sweet...

regards,

trillium

[trillium]

Hey, didn't I hear a variation of this discussion at the farmer's market on Saturday?

Guilty as charged.

We were in Portland, and bought some olive oil from Jim, who also kindly shared some of his Portuguese salt.  Plus we got to meet trillium and Quentin, who are very nice (not to be confused with Really Nice!).

Hey, you're totally blowing my cover...everyone always thinks Quentin is nice online and off, but I've been told via email that I'm actually Really Mean, online at least.

So, since we were at the market anyway, I got stuff to make dinner for her family on Saturday night.  I bought an enormous, beautiful cauliflower head, some spinach, strawberries from Persephone farm, and an onion. 

Did they still have the Puget Summer berries when you got there? They were the ripest, but I think I bought half of what they had...they made fantastic jam.

We also had a nice lunch at Park Kitchen and made three trips to Ken's, if you include stopping at his stand at the market.  Ken's is the best bread I've ever eaten, although admittedly I wasn't a bread nerd yet when we went to France.  It is crust and crumb above Grand Central, which is still very good.  I've never been to Pearl Bakery, so I can't compare.  Ken's baguette, country blonde (sourdough white), and country brown (pain de campagne) are exceptional.  He also makes cannelés, which are good, though not any better than nightscotsman's.  I really don't understand why Ken Forkish's bread is so great, but I intend to find out.  He also makes something I've forgotten the name of (Galette de french name--Jim?), but it's brioche dough, rolled out thin and topped with sugar and orange zest, then baked like a pizza.  This should not be missed.

When you talk to him, whatever you do, don't pronounce his bakery name (Ken's Artisan Bakery) as Artisian (the well), trust me on this one. His bread is so great for many reasons, here's a couple... one, he's an obsessed bread geek and tries really hard to react to changes in environment and supply when he does his thing, and two, he has a really fancy oven that the likes of Thomas Keller are jealous of. Pearl does a different sort of bread, softer crust, less flavor to me. The french couple we're friends with actually like that bread better. No accounting for taste. I think calling it sourdough brings to mind SF style stuff, which it isn't really. What did you think about his croissants? How do they compare to the great Seattle croissant ccompare and contrast?

regards,

trillium

[KNorthrup]

Esp when he's doing the single-serving rhubarb upside down cakes. 

Saturday he'd switched to apricot, and the cake was just as deadly.

Jim

Damn it, Jim

I've been doing such a good job of staying out there. But apricot is the one fruit I love possibly even more than rhubarb.

[Alberts]

When I'm the supreme dictator there will be no kettle corn at the market (nor people standing in the way staring vacantly into space while eating it) no doublewide baby strollers + the family dog groups, no dogs at all actually and I'd be tempted to outlaw strollers too but there might be a revolt. .. I fall into the "it's there so I can buy my produce" camp and not the "it's a lovely form of entertainment on the weekend" camp.  The people there to just eat and gawk really get in the way.

Yikes, no strollers? What's next? No wheelchairs? No walkers?

We've been to the market with our small kids virtually every weekend for the past four years. We have a great time, buying produce, listening to the music, meeting the vendors. It is almost the only place where a person can teach their children where food comes from without buying a cow. Markets are, and always have been community, family gathering places. They're not bars, afterall.

I would recommend going early.

[trillium]

When I'm the supreme dictator there will be no kettle corn at the market (nor people standing in the way staring vacantly into space while eating it) no doublewide baby strollers + the family dog groups, no dogs at all actually and I'd be tempted to outlaw strollers too but there might be a revolt. .. I fall into the "it's there so I can buy my produce" camp and not the "it's a lovely form of entertainment on the weekend" camp.  The people there to just eat and gawk really get in the way.

Yikes, no strollers? What's next? No wheelchairs? No walkers?

We've been to the market with our small kids virtually every weekend for the past four years. We have a great time, buying produce, listening to the music, meeting the vendors. It is almost the only place where a person can teach their children where food comes from without buying a cow. Markets are, and always have been community, family gathering places. They're not bars, afterall.

I would recommend going early.

Because I don't like inconsiderate parents that think it's ok to push doublewide strollers and just hang out in the path, blocking up an already crowded pathway, I should go to a bar instead? Next you're going to tell me it's an important learning and community experience for the family dog, right? I've got nothing against people bringing their offspring to the market, I'm all for it. My mum took me and my little brother every where she went when I was a kid. I'm against self-centered, bad drivers of big strollers not children. I'm against people being rude and assuming they and their children are the center universe and everyone should give way to them. They and thier SUV stroller ilk suck. And I hold they aren't in the same catagory as someone who needs a wheelchair or walker to get around. Aren't you glad I'm not the supreme dictator?

And I do go early. I'm usually there at 8:30 and out by 9:30. I'd go even earlier but the vendors aren't allowed to sell until 8:30. It was better for us bar hopping, kid-eating, anti-community and family types when it opened at 7:30.

trillium

[Jim Dixon]

Don't make me stop the car....

I'm actually Really Mean, online at least.

trillium's dark side emerges at last.

Jim

[mamster]

I didn't think Ken's croissant was as good as those from Cafe Besalu or Le Fournil in Seattle. You can't be the best at everything, I guess. I'm in favor of using the term "sourdough" to describe any bread made only with wild yeast, whether it's actually sour or not.

[trillium]

Don't make me stop the car....

I'm actually Really Mean, online at least.

trillium's dark side emerges at last.

Jim

Hey, when you're fantasizing about being the supreme dictator of the universe it usually doesn't involve being Really Nice. At least in not in my fantasies....

On croissants, I didn't think Ken's lived up to my favorite (Tassajarra Bakery, SF, circa 1992) but I thought maybe it was just that the memory had acquired an unrealistic nostalgic luster. Too much yeast and softness, not enough flaky-ness. But not Safeway's at least...

regards,

trillium

[mamster]

Here's Jim, hawking the JDOO. Those are the salt grains from the Portuguese on the right.

[duckduck]

I was glad to get a chance to say "Hi" and meet you Jim! Wish I had bumped into Trillium or Mamster. I had a really great time at the market. Next time I'll get there early before Ken's Artisian Bakery is all sold out!

[Alberts]

Okay, so enough talk about kids at the market. We are considering motorizing our stroller, so ours can drive without us..if we could just get them to carry their own produce.

Anyway, Trillium, I respect your opinion. We will all have fun in our own way. I'm glad we are all supporting the market, and yeah, I guess I am glad you aren't the supreme dictator

[duckduck]

My post disappeared... Oh, never mind. It's just hiding under the picture of Jim. Weird things happen when I use this computer at Kinko's.

Edited July 2, 2003 by duckduck (log)

[Human Bean]

I'm in favor of using the term "sourdough" to describe any bread made only with wild yeast, whether it's actually sour or not.

I'd have to disagree with that; wild or not, if it's not sour, it's not sourdough. Any sponge that's maintained long enough would probably come to have local wild yeasts/bacteria dominate its makeup, but it's either sour or not.

My benchmark is San Francisco sourdough; there is at least one Portland bakery that claims to use San Francisco-derived starter, but it's just not the same. The real (San Francisco) thing used to be available locally as frozen loaves; I haven't seen them lately, but then, I haven't looked.

BTW, Jim: "Oil for food":

[Edit: Trojan shill alert!! Ban any further mentions of olive oil or salt, please. It's the right thing to do. ]

Edited July 2, 2003 by Human Bean (log)