NJ eGullet Dinner at China 46

[Rachel Perlow]

Gee, Steven. Tell us how you really feel.

BTW - the ordering was done by me, tommy & jhlurie. If Jason had been involved there would have been no fish casserole.

[jhlurie]

Spicy Capsicum Cellophane Noodles – with bits of chicken and shrimp on top, this dish was all about the right balance of “textured heat”.  And cilantro on top was a bright addition.

This dish was awesome; I was surprised at the lack of enthusiasm people displayed for it. I personally consumed approximately half our table's ration.

I was surprised to. I was frugal with taking it to leave enough for other people, but this dish is awesome. If I'd noticed a trend of people not taking it I would have grabbed more.

Ruby Pork with Sesame Buns – lovely flavor, but the pork product was awfully fatty (maybe I just got the wrong pieces). An extremely tasty combination, though, when an actual piece of meat was stuffed with some greens in a piece of toasty, flaky sesame bun.

Crappy pork, well prepared.

In fairness to the restaurant, it has to be pointed out that the cut is INTENTIONAL. They believe that the fat of that cut is what gives it all that flavor. You don't eat the fat of course (although I can't speak for people in China--maybe they do), but the idea that Lean Pork is "good pork" is not their belief.

Fish Head Casserole – Rich, nicely seasoned broth, but it was like “Fish Surprise” – a tail here, a facial bone there, and lots of flabby skin were all things that needed to be eaten around.

I may have gotten lucky (especially since I didn't relish the idea of a fish eyeball floating in my soup), but I didn't see that many actual fish parts in my soup. I suppose its luck of the draw based on the serving. Again though, to try and put a "chinese" interpretation on things, I'll bet that they seek out those parts and its probably very "western" of us to be trying to avoid them. We'd probably accuse them of "dumbing down" the soup for the tourists if they yanked them out completely, on the other hand I suppose its a bit much to expect us to see us enthusiastically picking up the fish heads and sucking the brains out like they do.

Pan Fried Shanghai Buns – Nicely fluffy dough, but I would have liked the filling to have a bit more spunk; a drizzle of the dipping sauce brought it all together, though.

I've been trying to think on this a bit. Steven is right that, by nature, this is an item that might seem bland to us at any of a million different dim sum places. I'm kind of used to the ones at C46, so I've never really contemplated how they could be improved. You've made me think, although I haven't found an answer yet. Since these are supposed to be savory items, I doubt we are going to see them pop up anywhere with anything TOO spicy inside.

[coquille]

Kim WB: I thought your "very yucky" summed it up perfectly!

Rachel: Definitely fish skin. It was like finding a "gator" (what's left of a tire that died) in the middle of the highway; I pretty much had a whole fish skin in my bowl -- which may explain why jhlurie didn't have quite so much stuff in his!

Jason: "noodle dish.. rice cakes... shredded pork"? Not written up because I didn't see it/have any! Maybe the other table snapped it up a bit too soon...

jhlurie: not necessarily looking for spice in those buns... just a bit more personality.

Fat-Guy: As for wines, Tommy hit it right that I think we missed 2 great bottles due to TCA. It was tough to adequately address all the beverages in addition to all the dishes and in addition to all the conversations. Sensory overload. I personally thought the 2001 Alsace One went best across the board -- it's a great QPR, bright fruit, and super-flexible. The 2002 Moore's Creek Hunter Valley Semillon/Sauv Blanc blend was probably my runner-up in terms of working with the dishes; lightly grassy, lightly petullant. I got to the Gerhard Schulz Riesling Spatlese a little too late in the meal. Enjoyable alone, but I bet it would have been terrifc for handling the spicier fare; beautiful mouthfeel, nice light spice and fruit combo. If that baby was, in fact, $7, then it's a steal. Other wines present: 2001 Moletto Prosecco, 2001 Kirralaa Bushvine Shiraz, 2001 Michel Lynch Bordeaux Blanc, 2002 Babich Sauv Blanc (always a goodie, but a little too warm by the time I got to it), and 1999 Leonard Kreusch Riesling Beerenauslese (our only sweetie, it easily worked with the desserts). Then there was your Soju super-saki... not a big saki fan (and I prefer 'em cold rather than warm), but this one did the trick for me. Kim WB said it was some crazy combination of fermented items -- could you please provide more details on that?

[Fat Guy]

In fairness to the restaurant, it has to be pointed out that the cut is INTENTIONAL.  They believe that the fat of that cut is what gives it all that flavor.

Hey, I'm totally pro-fat. See my comments on the bacon dish. My objection wasn't to the fat, but to the pork which wasn't a great piece of pork. In general I felt that China 46 had an excellent kitchen -- probably better than any of the Shanghai kitchens in New York -- but that the product being used was often sub-par. So what nets out is that the technique-intensive dishes were great and the fresh-ingredients-intensive dishes weren't, for the most part.

[Fat Guy]

Kim WB said it was some crazy combination of fermented items -- could you please provide more details on that?

I think it's basically a low-strength potato vodka (maybe 40 proof) but made from sweet potatoes, and infused with green tea.

[Jason Perlow]

Hmm.

I must admit, since I had no input into the dish selection, we didn't order some of the things that I consider to be some of the better dishes that the restaurant makes -- like their sizzling sauteed lamb with scallions and their house special saute of pork with chiles and pressed tofu. And the Salt and Pepper shrimp, and their dungeness crab dishes, particularly the one served over flat rice noodles in a fresh garlic sauce. And those use pretty stellar ingredients, I might add.

[Fat Guy]

We'll just have to do it again, then.

[Jason Perlow]

We'll just have to do it again, then.

Next time, I fucking pick the dishes. This is what happens when I'm not consulted!

[jhlurie]

I wonder if the business fall-off has affected the ingredients they can afford? That makes a certain kind of distrssful sense.

[Fat Guy]

Just to be clear: I loved the meal. I'm simply pointing to some defects. That's what I do for a living.

[Rachel Perlow]

things that I consider to be some of the better dishes that the restaurant makes -- like their sizzling sauteed lamb with scallions and their house special saute of pork with chiles and pressed tofu. And the Salt and Pepper shrimp, and their dungeness crab dishes, particularly the one served over flat rice noodles in a fresh garlic sauce. And those use pretty stellar ingredients, I might add.

OK, but everything you mention, except the lamb, we had at the first dinner at China 46. I didn't want to repeat the menu. I also didn't want to have two dishes stuffed into sesame buns. Next time, no Ruby Pork (sorry tommy).

[Jason Perlow]

things that I consider to be some of the better dishes that the restaurant makes -- like their sizzling sauteed lamb with scallions and their house special saute of pork with chiles and pressed tofu. And the Salt and Pepper shrimp, and their dungeness crab dishes, particularly the one served over flat rice noodles in a fresh garlic sauce. And those use pretty stellar ingredients, I might add.

OK, but everything you mention, except the lamb, we had at the first dinner at China 46. I didn't want to repeat the menu. I also didn't want to have two dishes stuffed into sesame buns. Next time, no Ruby Pork (sorry tommy).

And no more freakin preserved jellyfishes and sea cucumber glop... ugh

[Jason Perlow]

We should get the lionhead meatballs too...

[Rail Paul]

My First eGullet Event

by coquille

OK, there was so much that went on at this event, it’s hard for me to know where to begin – plus, since we were at 2 tables, I can’t offer a complete picture of what everyone thought.  But, Mark, Bara Sapir, Rosie, Lowell, Kim, Tommy, Brodsky, DoubleO, Rachel Perlow, Jason Perlow, jluhrie, Steven Shaw, Ellen, Jenny (Steven’s mom), Nick, coquille, Brian, and Maria

That was a great write-up coquille. Extremely thorough.

Now, the real question, who's who in the pictures? And, not everyone got in the pictures.

[tommy]

We'll just have to do it again, then.

Next time, I fucking pick the dishes. This is what happens when I'm not consulted!

don't you worry your pretty little head about it. even if i hadn't been consulted, the ordering was just about perfect for a first time (and god knows you need 3 or 4 times to get a good sampling here). you just don't like good stuff. that's your problem. m'kay?

i'm with jason re salt and pepper. their s/p shrimp is brilliant. i recall rail paul gushing over them. so that says something right there.

coquille, the tripe and tongue at C46 is the best version of this dish that i've had anywhere, with a near perfect balance of spice/flavor and texture. however, it's one of my favorites, so i'm a bit biased. i'd suggest that people try this elsewhere, and then compare it. C46 hits it dead on. perfectly.

and coquille, great notes! thanks for keeping them, and managing to remain good company at the same time. i generally struggle with either of those tasks.

Edited June 16, 2003 by tommy (log)

[Rosie]

We'll just have to do it again, then.

It was a great evening but think about doing a dinner at Hunan cottage so we can compare the two places. I like the salt and pepper shrimp and salt and pepper soft shell crabs better at Hunan Cottage.

[tommy]

We'll just have to do it again, then.

It was a great evening but think about doing a dinner at Hunan cottage so we can compare the two places. I like the salt and pepper shrimp and salt and pepper soft shell crabs better at Hunan Cottage.

i have no choice but to go there and prove you wrong. additionally, if i have to convince anyone there that i require a "special menu", i'm walking out and going straight to C46. i don't have time for games.

[pbrodsky]

Let's do it again!

[scarlet knight]

What are lionhead meatballs made out of?

[Jason Perlow]

Pork and beef, I think.

[sonnykilstein]

ground pork and water chestnuts

[tommy]

i think sonny is right. i recall asking cecil what they were made of and him saying "pork."

[Fat Guy]

Here's the only recipe I turned up online via a quick Google search.

http://www.globalgourmet.com/destinations/...a/lionhead.html

[jogoode]

NJ eGullet Dinner at China 46, June 8th, 2003

How did I miss this!!!

[Rosie]

NJ eGullet Dinner at China 46, June 8th, 2003

How did I miss this!!!

Well we missed you also. You need to stay on eGullet 24/7 so it doesn't happen again!