A good choucroute in Paris

[delights]

Almost April and my birthday.

This year I have decided To eat a choucroute in a brasserie in Paris.

But where is the best place in order to satisfy me?

[fresh_a]

I would try the Brasserie Flo, 7 cour des Petites Ecuries or the Alsaco, 10 Rue Condorcet. Both are weill-known for their sauerkraut. For ambience, the Flo probably has the edge.

[Louisa Chu]

Bonne anniversaire!

I had an exceptionally good choucroute garnie at La Chope d'Alsace before they transformed into Les Editeurs. I'm told by friends who've been there after the change that they still have it on the menu. Same owners so I'm hoping it's still good. Especially because I do like their new look so much more - a hip and stylish literary club. At metro Odeon, almost next door to Christian Tortu.

[Claude Kolm/The Fine Wine Review]

I would try the Brasserie Flo, 7 cour des Petites Ecuries or the Alsaco, 10 Rue Condorcet. Both are weill-known for their sauerkraut. For ambience, the Flo probably has the edge.

Re Alsaco, I repeat my post from the thread entitled "Paris 4th bistros:"

Steve Plotnicki and I had a discussion about Alsaco on another board a few years ago. The situation described below bothers me and has kept me from going to Alsaco, as much as I love the food and wine there, but it apparently does not prevent Steve from going there. I post this in case the news is something that would make you want to avoid the restaurant.

A few years ago, neo-Nazis in Paris chose Alsaco as the location to celebrate Hitler's birthday (April 20). The event made news because anti-Nazi graffiti was painted on the outside of the restaurant the night before the event exposing it to the neighborhood, and there may have been some other damage. Other inquiries in Paris apparently confirmed the truth of the story and the views of Alsaco's owner. Web searches also revealed that the owner is a big Le Pen backer (including monetary donations).

Patricia Wells recommends Alsaco. I e-mailed her with the news about Alsaco and asked what she knew about it, but she never replied. She continues to recommend the restaurant.

Friends in Paris tell me that Chez Jenny, another Alsatian brasserie (Alsaco is really a wijnstub and not a brasserie) in Paris, also is notorious for the views of much of its clientele.

These days I'm inclined to go to Boffinger or to search out other new places when I'm in Paris and want Alsatian food.

Best regards,

Claude Kolm

The Fine Wine Review

[Steve Plotnicki]

Alsaco has the only original tasting choucroute in Paris in my experience. The secret ingredient is cumin. And the saurkraut isn't too briney, more fresh tasting. I haven't been to Bofinger in years, although it used to be a favorite of mine. But my understanding about the Flo Group is that they make the food in a central commmisary and then ship it to the individual restautants. I ate in Le Chop de d"Alsace a number fo years agod and I found it disappointing. How about Cafe Runtz in the second arr? It's like Alsaco,more of a winstub then a brasserie. As for going to Alsaco, I would go without any hesitation despite their politics (which has not been proven the owner partakes in.) I mean I know so many people with what I believe are dreadful politics. Facists, communists, libertarians etc., some of who are friends of mine. And they don't have sausages and cabbage to mitigate their mishegas yet I still talk to them anyway.

[Fat Guy]

No more posts on the political issue. The two positions have been represented and any further comments related to this subject will be deleted, accompanied by immediate action against the poster's account.

Once again, eGullet is not a forum for political discussions.

[RandyB]

Bofinger does takeout! A choucroute portion that is excessive for one and marginally adequate for two costs around $10, or at least it did last November. It comes hot, but helps to either live nearby or have at least a hotplate to reheat it.

However, it's getting a little late in the season for choucroute. Springtime in Paris!

[marcus]

I would personally not recommend any restaurant in the Flo group, and I wouldn't be pleased if a concierge pointed me in that direction. Bofinger is nothing at all like it was 20-30 years ago when it was my preferred place for Choucroute. I did, based on Particia Wells recommendation, eat at Alsaco and Cafe Runtz on consecutive evenings when I was in Paris on a business trip about a year or more ago. Overall, I found both disappointing, Cafe Runtz was bland, but acceptable, I found the Choucroute at Alsaco to have an off taste that I couldn't quite put my finger on, but it was too bitter. I did find the service at Alsaco t be kind and pleasant.

Edited April 15, 2003 by marcus (log)

[Steve Plotnicki]

I agree with Marcus about the Flo Group. I stay clear of those brasseries at all times. And it's too bad because I used to enjoy a good brasserie meal in Paris. But they have become the French version of Houston's. I can't speak for their raw bars though. They might have kept the same quality there.

[marcus]

Steve -- Do you know the Brasserie Marty in the 5th. I've never been, but it seems to have the reputation for being just about the only remaining high quality independent brasserie.

[Steve Plotnicki]

I know it but have never been. Maybe when I'm in Paris next month.

[RandyB]

Reply to Marcus' comment: "I found the Choucroute at Alsaco to have an off taste that I couldn't quite put my finger on, but it was too bitter. "

Sounds like they are serving leftovers. My experience with good choucroute (and I still think Bofinger makes it) is that when the dish is freshly prepared, it has a strangely sweet characteristic that disappears if the choucroute is kept and reheated. Then it just tastes like the sauerkraut you get on a cheap hot dog.

Of course, this could all be imaginary. My specialty is chocolate, not cabbage.

[Bux]

Steve -- Do you know the Brasserie Marty in the 5th.  I've never been, but it seems to have the reputation for being just about the only remaining high quality independent brasserie.

I've read a couple of complaints, here on eGullet I believe, that Marty tends to segregate American or at least English speaking diners. I shall have to try when I can get the company of our very charming American friend who, while American, is a French literature scholar with an apartment in the neighborhood. That may be my best shot.

I don't have much to say about Choucroute, but a Flo group brasserie is fine for oysters and andouillette and often for the architecture or decor.

[pirate]

I tried Marty a couple of years ago on the basis of a Patricia Wells recommendation. Okay but not worth a repeat visit.

[fresh_a]

Marty's is just down the road from me... still haven't been there. The dining room is very kitch, but it looks like they servce excellent seafood..

[John Talbott]

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde wrote an article on choucroute nouveau and where to get it. He mentions: Le Bec bouge, Au Bretzel, Drouant, Lipp, Chez Jenny, Bofinger, Flo + Brasserie de l'Ile-Saint-Louis.

[fresh_a]

Wow! Do I actually have posts that old!...

[RandyB]

Wow! Do I actually have posts that old!...

←

I guess I do, too. I just noticed I had a post in this thread dated 2003.

Meanwhile, I still think Bofinger serves a nice choucroute. If you have a kitchen, or at least a hot plate or microwave to reheat food, then doing takeout from Bofinger is a real bargain. The takeout portion is enough for two, if maybe you add a salad. They even take off a Euro or two from the menu price when you take it out.