London: The belly of the beast

[Escoffier]

When I went there it seemed about as Italian as a tin of Cirio tomatoes.

[Gavin Jones]

Food Manufacture: There are still extant smokeries in London. This one should be fairly easy,a spot of history, a trek round the mile end road, who they supply, a kipper for breakfast.

In the mid-19thC there were apparently around 800 slaughterhouses in (&under) the City of London. I'm not feeling that abbatoir-ready yet - but that's a possible angle.

In an attempt to re-experience the early 1970's I will, at a date to be decided, perform the Peter Langan Memorial Lunch. This will I hope avoid self-immolation but should include passing a Cork St gallery, pointing at an academic nude, then walking in to demand 'The Fuck pic'.

There is apparently a book by Julian Maclaren-Ross's publisher, Dan Davin, called 'Closing Time'. That should do me for some hints on austerity drinking. Will probably do for my liver too - Lunch like Louis Macneice, Dine like Maclaren Ross, Die like Dylan Thomas.

Inter-war years are trickier. There's Veeraswamy of course. What are the vestiges of the Lyon's corner houses - there used to be a Chinese restaurant on Wardour St. called 'Ley-ons' which was the metamorphosis of one. Nye Bevan used to drink at the Cafe Royal - and some of the great hotels must have had a refurb at that time. Hitler's favourite building in London was 'Whiteleys' (followed by the Senate house).

[macrosan]

.. - there used to be a Chinese restaurant on Wardour St. called 'Ley-ons' ...

Oh no, don't tell me that closed down

El Vino in Fleet Street has a 1970s claim to fame, they tell me. Probably more grubby press money changed hands there than even Jeffrey Archer handled in his life.

What about Rawalpindi in Wimbledon Village ? Famous early Indian resto - is it still there ? Bombay Brasserie too. Schmidt's in Charlotte Street was a huge German restaurant much frequented by students and university staff. Now long gone, it used to serve what I believe they called "wholesome food" in vast quantities.

Ahhh, so much nostalgia, so little time ....

[Simon Majumdar]

Also, when we had the infamous Dim Sum and Drinks lunch way back when, you kick started this by drinking at two places with war time significance, The French House and De Heims

S

[Gavin Jones]

War's a good period: Though the obvious exploration of this by living on powdered egg & a quarter oz. of cheese, going out to drink oneself senseless is less than tempting.

Edit: Deleted reference to wartime sexual habits

Edited February 28, 2003 by Gavin Jones (log)

[peterpumkino]

Anybody remember the original Topo Gigio?

Also there was a really good Italian next to Peter Evans owned by the same people as Sale e Pepe. Can't remember the name but it's not there now, pity.

[Simon Majumdar]

Anybody remember the original Topo Gigio?

Also there was a really good Italian next to Peter Evans owned by the same people as Sale e Pepe. Can't remember the name but it's not there now, pity.

There is still a Topo Gigio near The Glass Blower. is that the original? It has been there as long as I have been in London

S

[peterpumkino]

There is still a Topo Gigio near The Glass Blower.  is that the original?  It has been there as long as I have been in London

S

No Simon, the original goes way back, it was tiny, noisy, crowded but good fun. I think it was located at Piccadilly Circus. Since then I've been to the newer one in Old Compton Street, is that the one you mean? If so, it just wasn't the same unfortunately.

[Simon Majumdar]

Old Compton St, that's the one. Ghastly. I was taken there once and it was horrible

All those old restaurants were

Tidi Dolls ( sp?) anyone?

S

[Charlene Leonard]

Peter, The Glass Blower is near Piccadilly Circus

[macrosan]

Now I remember the 2 I's in Old Compton Street. That's a collector's special for you. Anyone else ?

[Simon Majumdar]

Now I remember the 2 I's in Old Compton Street. That's a collector's special for you. Anyone else ?

Of course not. Too young

I have read about it in history books though

The coffee bar where Tommy Steele was "discovered" right?

S

[Wilfrid]

Unless there's been a recent change, you'll find Topo Gigo on Brewer Street, not Old Compton Street.

Good luck on chasing down the Dan Davin book, Gavin. The London Library's copy has been elusive recently. Lovely chapter on McClaren-Ross called "Goodnight, Julian, everywhere" - a play on the phrase with which BBC radio once closed it's children's programming every evening, "Goodnight, children, everywhere".

I used to know which premises on Old Compton Street used to be the 2 I's, but my memory is fallible. I think it's where Cafe Espana is - if it still calls itself that.

[Kikujiro]

Unless there's been a recent change, you'll find Topo Gigo on Brewer Street, not Old Compton Street.

There hasn't been a recent change.

[Wilfrid]

I just picked up a copy of the Davin book from ABE books for a few bucks. And there are plenty more on sale there.

[macrosan]

The coffee bar where Tommy Steele was "discovered" right?

That 's it. I went there for coffee a few times (it was one of the first "Espresso Bars" in London) but for some reason they didn't discover me. Tommy Steele was better looking, maybe ?

Wilfrid, it's on the south side of the street about four shops up from Wardour Street. I don't know what's there now.

[Gavin Jones]

I will try and investigate what happens when I wander up and down Old Compton Street asking young men if 'they are the next Tommy Steele'.

[Basildog]

Wilfrid, it's on the south side of the street about four shops up from Wardour Street. I don't know what's there now.

A Blue Plaque " Martin drank Coffee Here and Waited to be Discovered"

[Vanessa]

Anyone remember the Hamburger Products shop on Brewer St run by a couple of old ladies who sold rollmops, smoked salmon and such like? That was a piece of London's food history.

v

[peterpumkino]

Wilfrid, it's on the south side of the street about four shops up from Wardour Street. I don't know what's there now.

It

was

an Italian restaurant but I don't know now.

[peterpumkino]

Tidi Dolls ( sp?) anyone?

S

I agree about the 'new' Topo Gigio. At the old Topo Gigo food was 5 out of ten BUT the atmosphere was great.

I think it's Tilly Dolls and was mainly recommended by hotel concierges to Americans looking for a 'typical' Engligh dining experience. I've never been but it sounds awful.

[Tonyfinch]

Its TIDDY Dolls- after an eighteenth century term for the working gals who hung around Mayfair at the time.

[Gavin Jones]

Two new projects:

Food, Drink & Health:

Cholera is the obvious one, with a review of public drinking fountains, a wander round Broadwick St. and then a drink in the John Snow if it's still there.

Did London have TB Sanatoria (would have been to mid-20thC, what sort of diet was served?).

Reviewing the Reviewers: or Stalking Michael Winner,

Review meals in retaurants where Reviewers are dining - in particular review the dining habits & performance of teh Reviewer. e.g. Demanding Michael Winner's Table

[Charlene Leonard]

Reviewing the Reviewers: or Stalking Michael Winner,

Review meals in retaurants where Reviewers are dining - in particular review the dining habits & performance of teh Reviewer. e.g. Demanding Michael Winner's Table

how are you going to know when and where they are? stalking Fay Maschler could lead you to another interesting project - sampling cuisine at Her Majesty’s Pleasure!

[Gavin Jones]

how are you going to know when and where they are?  stalking Fay Maschler could lead you to another interesting project - sampling cuisine at Her Majesty’s Pleasure!

I'd need a vast network of spies, of course.

Though Simon is better placed to carry out this project.

Surely our discussions of food reviewers would be much enhanced by an insight into their on-the-job performance.

Though a pity we have to rely on reportage for those who've retired such as Jonathan Meades.