3 star restaurants - history and recommendations

[cabrales]

The new Michelin three-stars for France were released earlier than anticipated.  They are Ledoyen (Christian Le Squer) and Guy Savoy in Paris, and l'Arnsbourg at Untermuhlthal, near Baerenthal en Moselle (Jean-Georges Klein).

As BON reported on the Japanese board, Hiroyuki Hiramatsu's new restaurant received a star within less than a year of opening -- almost as quickly as L'Astrance did in a prior year.  Other interesting new one-stars: Angle du Faubourg (Paris; created by Taillevent owner Vrinat); Ghislaine Arabian (Paris; yes, a woman chef! ) ; Bastide de Moustiers (Moustiers Sainte-Marie; between Nice and Marseilles; the chef formerly there Witz (sic) should now be at another Ducasse establishment at La Celle).

Le Crocodile (Emile Jung; Strasbourg) was downgraded from 3 to 2 stars.

Some quotes from affected chefs:

Guy Savoy: "I feel total happiness."  "It's like winning an Olympic gold." "It's the culmination, the manifestation, the acknowledgment of all your work."  (Personally, I would rather Guy Savoy's star have been returned to J-M Lorain of La Cote Saint Jacques.)

Emile Jung:  "No words can appease the pain that is eating away at out hearts and stifling our spirits." "Since 1989 three stars have shone from its walls. Today, one of them has gone out."  "Every day for 30 years, Le  Crocodile  has served up excellence, ceaseless work and deep dedication marked with the little touches and creativity that are ceaselessly poured into the cooking."  (Ironically, for the 30-year celebration Jung and his wife had been to Egypt and had featured some Egyptian-titled dishes on their menu.)

Moved up from 1 star to 2 stars: Le Moulin de Mougins (Roger Verge; demoted from 3 to 2, and then from 2 to 1 previously),  Les Muses at Hôtel Scribe, Paris (Yannick Alleno), L'hôtel de Carantec (Patrick Jeffroy), L'Amphytrion at Lorient (Jean-Paul Abadie), L'Auberge de l'Ile at Lyon (Jean-Claude Ansanay-Alex), L'Hostellerie Jérôme at La Turbie (Bruno Cirino), and les Terrasses du Grand Hotel at Uriage-les-Bains (Philippe Bouissou).

Moved down from 2 stars to 1:  L'Hostellerie La Poularde at Montrond-les-Bains, and Les Trois Marches at Versailles.

Moved down from 1 star to 0: La Mère Brazier (originating point of the chicken in half mourning dish) at Lyons, la Tour Rose at Lyons;  Beauvilliers, le Trou Gascon (Dutournier's quasi-bistro) and la Table d'Anvers, all in Paris.

[Fat Guy]

Still no third star for Roellinger, I see. This has got to be the most persistent, glaring injustice in the Michelin scheme. I sit around most of the year with the thought in the back of my mind that Michelin is much better than Zagat, but this sort of thing annually reminds me that what Michelin lacks in lowest-common-denominator thinking it makes up for in political favoritism.

I find it hard to imagine how Amphitryon ever merited one star, no less two.

How many stars does this give Ducasse now? Has anybody done the arithmetic?

[cabrales]

How many stars does this give Ducasse now?

I can't be sure as this is not a chef whose cuisine I particularly like, but 6 would be my guess for Ducasse.  (3 for Plaza Athenee; 2 for Louis XV; 1 new star for Bastide. I assume zero for La Celle and, thank goodness, for Spoon).  But Ducasse's 6 is not as good as Veyrat's 2*3 (which is really 3, as Auberge is closed when Ferme is open, and vice versa).

Note Ramsay has 5 (3 for RHR, 1 for Petrus if you count affiliates and co-owned restaurants, 1 new star for Amaryllis in Glasgow last month).

However, I wouldn't put much emphasis on how many "additional" stars a given three-star chef has.  That's a function, in large part, of whether the chef has chosen to be low-key and non-commercialized (like Pacaud), not engaging in extracurricular activities, or more profit-oriented and publicity-driven (like Loiseau or Ducasse).

Patricia Wells' article of March 2001 (an open letter to Michelin re: Guy Savoy) is a stark example of advocacy-oriented food reviewing:

http://www.patriciawells.com/reviews/iht/2001/2303.htm

I have to say I don't attribute particular weight to Wells' recommendations (her L'Astrance article notwithstanding).  I think Wells is overrated, especially in the US.  I prefer other sources, like Michelin (stars thread notwithstanding).

[Bux]

Thanks for the early detection and report. I'd heard nothing here and looked on the Michelin web site just the other day in respect to Bon's reference to Hiramatsu's star.

I ate pretty well in l'Amphytrion in Lorient this past summer, and my table companions were even more pleased than I was, but there's no way the meal or the evening compared to the one at Roellinger. I've only eaten at Roellinger's restaurant once, and I believe Steve has not had more than one meal. It's difficult to second guess Michelin under those circumstances, but after eating at four two star restaurnts in Brittany, I have to say Roellinger outclassed the others by a long shot and the difference was mostly in the food. He runs a very nice inn as well. It's on the simple side for a Relais & Chateaux property, but that's my preference. Great breakfast, by the way. I've been reading about Patrick Jeffroy, although we've not made it there. Brittany has some pretty good cooking.

I used to think the world of Patricia Wells' opinions, but in the past year or so, I've seem some reviews that have been way off the mark in my opinion and heard complaints from others. Whether she's lost her touch or her lapses are catching up with her, I don't know. Maybe it's a matter of being over extended and losing a grasp on one's own abilities. She maintains a message board on her web site, but has never posted an answer to anyone's question. The board attracts few questions and far fewer answers, but the software and appearance get upgraded as if it's an earnest function. All that considered, she's entitled to say Savoy deserves three stars. It's just another way of her saying she thinks it's among the best restaurants in Paris and no different from Shaw saying it's an injustice for Roellinger to have only two stars.

As Veyrat literally moves his restaurant, I think he carries the same three stars with him. While Ducasse seems not be on the cutting edge of cuisine, I have to say that as I look back on my meal in Paris, it was some of the sharpest honed preparation and presentation ever set on my table.

I am sad for the chef/owner at La Poularde in Montrond-les-Bains. We had a lovely dinner there many years ago. I mostly remember the best St. Joseph we've ever had and a sommelier with one arm, who recommended the cheese that best went with the wine and introduced us to Maury along with a complementry chocolate dessert for the wine.

[Fat Guy]

Moved down from 1 star to 0: La Mère Brazier (originating point of the chicken in half mourning dish) at Lyons

Isn't that also the first place that had six stars (2 x 3, same as Veyrat's seasonal arrangement)?

Is Lyons going downhill culinarily? It used to have a reputation as the top place outside of Paris, and now it doesn't seem to garner much enthusiasm from the people I trust. And Bocuse sounds just awful, so much so that I can't imagine ever spending my own money to investigate it.

[Jon Tseng]

Yes, Mere Brazier (the original) was one of the first chefs to have three stars when they started up the system (and a woman too!), and had 2x3 at one point (the current place and some out of town joint)

went to the place when i was in my "lyon-culinary-pilgrimage" phase after high school. good trad. food - pate foie gras, pike quenelles (skipped the poulet d-d as on budget).

another olde star loses its lustre - what price paul b next? ;-)

cheerio

j

[robert brown]

Steven, what do you  mean by "political favoritism"? (vis a vis Michelin).

[Bux]

I believe the two Mère Braziers restaurants operated simultaneously as I've read that it was considerable easier for her to commute back and forth than it is for Ducasse to run between Paris and Monte Carlo.

I don't know that Lyon (by the way, I've been told that current accepted practice has been moving towards using the French spelling and towards dropping the "S" that used to be considered the correct English spelling--ditto for Marseille) is significantly going downhill culinarily. The three stars of the region have long been located outside the city with Bocuse being the closest. Lyon also built a terrific reputation for it's "Mère" restaurants or restaurants run by women. Mostly however, I think Lyon is know for good hearty cooking, the sort that is washed down by quantities of good light Beaujolais and Macon blanc. Lyonnaise dishes are ones that usually include onions. Quenelles are the most famous dish. Ethereal when made in the best kitchens, but others will often sink faster than my grandmosther's matzo balls. Otherwise one should look for local food such as andouillette and tablier de sapeur sausages of tripe and stomach and fried squares of stomach. Some of us, myself included. are always distracted by the stars but the no-star bouchons and machons are where to find "Lyonnaise" food. There have been some good threads here on Lyon.

[Bux]

Robert, do you really want to get invovled in Shaw's conspiracy theories.

[robert brown]

Bux, you bet. If the French can screw up the Olympic Games, they can screw up anything.

[pcloguda]

I can support the demotion of La Tour Rose and Table d'Anvers..........

but am somewhat puzzled by the * for Angle du Faubourg. Both

food and service as good but this is hardly fine dining or a special

experience.

[thefoodhunter]

How many stars does this give Ducasse now?

I can't be sure as this is not a chef whose cuisine I particularly like, but 6 would be my guess for Ducasse.  (3 for Plaza Athenee; 2 for Louis XV; 1 new star for Bastide. I assume zero for La Celle and, thank goodness, for Spoon).  But Ducasse's 6 is not as good as Veyrat's 2*3 (which is really 3, as Auberge is closed when Ferme is open, and vice versa).

Note Ramsay has 5 (3 for RHR, 1 for Petrus if you count affiliates and co-owned restaurants, 1 new star for Amaryllis in Glasgow last month).

However, I wouldn't put much emphasis on how many "additional" stars a given three-star chef has.  That's a function, in large part, of whether the chef has chosen to be low-key and non-commercialized (like Pacaud), not engaging in extracurricular activities, or more profit-oriented and publicity-driven (like Loiseau or Ducasse).

Cabrales, I think Ducasse is also behind Il Cortile (the Chanel cafeteria) with 1 Michelin star. But who can keep track these days. I'm thrilled for Guy Savoy, I always thought he was a victim of the Michelin "We don't like people who make money with their name" philosophy because he opened his bistrots. same for Rostang who has been in 2 star limbo for years. Now that Michelin has a British director it may reward chefs for their talent rather than chastise them for their business acumen. The French hate to admit they like to make money.

[stephen wall]

cabrales,how did you find out about these changes so early(please post relevant link)

[cabrales]

Stephen -- I read about the stars on L'Hotellerie, a French website for restaurant industry participants.  Michelin made public the information on February 12.

http://www.lhotellerie.fr

Maybe it's a matter of [Patricia Wells] being over extended ....

Patricia Wells offers truffle trips, among other things.  The trip seemed incredibly over-priced. Have any members participated in those trips or Wells' cooking classes in France?

If my memory is accurate, in "Burgundy Stars", Loiseau is described as having been relieved that Wells liked her meal.  He somehow thought a favorable Wells review might be helpful with respect to his gaining his third star?!.

Yes, Mere Brazier (the original) was one of the first chefs to have three stars when they started up the system (and a woman too!) ...

One of the Mere Braziers is featured on the murals outside Bocuse's restaurant, with the chicken in half mourning dish:

http://www.ec-lyon.fr/tourisme/Rhone-Alpes...lerie/3.html.en

Also, at George Blanc's cafe Le Splendid in Lyons, the paper placemats show Blanc's female ancestors and other historical female chefs in a sepia-type set of colors.  

Ghislaine Arabian's having a star again made me consider why I was happy with that development.  I would have to say it is primarily because she is a woman.  I am not aware of that many Michelin starred female chefs in France, and Anne-Sophie Pic (with the benefit of her father's reputational legacy) is the only two-starred female chef in that country. One stars include: Renne Samut (Auberge de la Fenniere, sic, at Lourmarin, where I much prefer Loubet's cuisine); Helene Darroze in Paris; Francois Depee (query whether she is still at Les Templiers?).  I am probably omitting some obvious one stars.  Have members dined at the restaurants of the Italian three-star female chefs?

[Bux]

I can't remember. Was Ms. Wells writing for the Herald Tribune or l'Express in Burgundy Stars? Most of us may know her for her IHT restaurant reviews, but I believe she also wrote for l'Express. In either case as I recall, Loiseau was rather anxiety ridden, at least by Echikson's accounts.

I met a winemaker in Cairanne who was hosting truffle weekends in Provence. I'm not sure if he is still doing them. I haven't been in touch in a while. Coincidently, I sent an e-mail to him this morning. He's British and his weekends were geared towards the UK market. It's a bit far for most Americans just for the weekend.

I wonder if there are any female Spanish three star chefs. I've heard reports that Arzak has pretty much left his daughter in charge of the kitchen,  but I don't know if that's reliable. That would be the only one I know about. In Galica there is a mother and two daughters who are locally famous, but I think only two of them had a star apiece when we were there.

[cabrales]

I wonder if there are any female Spanish three star chefs. I've heard reports that Arzak has pretty much left his daughter in charge of the kitchen,  but I don't know if that's reliable. That would be the only one I know about.

Bux -- From rumor, Arzak's daughter is indeed quite active in the kitchen; the extent is also unknown to me.  A Bourdain describes in his book how certain unspecified US chefs may have a crush on that female chef.

On the wait between a second and third star, this year's crop of restaurants experienced a wide range.  Two stars were awarded to Guy Savoy in 1985, and to l'Arnsbourg in 1998.  Also, apparently Le Squer has only been the chef at Ledoyen since 1998.  Four years is not bad for making the ultimate jump.  With the fast awarding of stars to L'Astrance previously and Hiramatsu this year, I wonder if Brown has a slightly different philosophy with respect to timing.

Certain French articles have noted the emphasis on the quality of products and chefs' taking inspiration from them in Michelin's remarks about the new three-stars.  Regarding Guy Savoy, Michelin noted (roughly translated) that the chef was inspired by his "multiple experiences", and that he "protects the products of 'the terroir' which he interprets in his way -- simultaneously creative and nuanced."  Michelin's remarks about Le Squer's affiliation with products from his origin, Brittany.  Interestingly, it also noted, among other things, the 58 euro lunch possibility.   L'Arnsbourg was described as a gastronomic joy lodged within the heart of the forests of the Vosges, with a cuisine that is remarkable and resolutely imaginative.  

Incidentally, according to the Hotellerie site, the most three stars awarded in a given year (gross number, not net of demotions) was four.  In 1953: La Tour d'Argent; Maxim's; Le Grand Vefour (yes, long, long before Guy Martin); l'Hostellerie de la Poste.  Also, in 1973: La Mere Charles-Chapel (does this woman have any family relationship with Alain Chapel?) at Mionnay, Pic (father of Anne-Sophie) at Valence; Taillevent and Le Vivarois (before Pacaud started training there).

[Bux]

Why would any American chef have a crush on a yong woman in charge of and about to inherit a three star restaurant?  

One of the criticisms I often hear about Michelin is how conservative they are in recognizing new talent and rewarding it. Perhaps they are making a conscious effort to overcome that image. It's the sort of thing that often backfires if not extremely well thought out. Nevertheless, the red guide has chnaged over the years and food in France and the rest of the western world is changing rapidly.

[robert brown]

Cabrales, La Mere Charles was the woman chef who sold the restaurant to Alain Chapel's parents. She was one of the "meres de Lyon". Chapel kept the name along with his until the late 1970s when he dropped the"Chez La Mere Charles"

Bux, the answer to your riddle is "to get to the other side" (of the pond, that is).

[adrian]

Guy Savoy has deserved the third star for a long while now.. especially after completely refurbishing the restaurant. The staff is fantastic- motivated knowledgable, and enthusiastic, while remaining friendly. The products are unbeatable. The cuisine creative and simple. It remains a great favorite of mine. Savoy has also, a generous personality, and it reflects in the general ambience. I was disappointed by a recent lunch at L'Arpege, when Savoy still had only two stars... I feel he is much better...

[cabrales]

The new Michelin three-stars for France were released earlier than anticipated.  They are Ledoyen (Christian Le Squer) ....

Ledoyen was reportedly the site of the French Michelin Red Guide's first-ever press conference (February 26, 2002). A March 31, 2002 article in AP Worldstream ("For French chefs, the answer to success is in the stars _ Michelin stars", by Jocelyn Gecker) observes:

"[A]t Ledoyen, the phones have been ringing nonstop for the past month . . . . 'Since getting our third star we have pages and pages of reservations,' said Le Squer, 39. Tables are now booking up through June at Ledoyen . . . . 'It's like a wonderful gift from the heavens.'." (Previous estimates for the receipt of a third star had indicated business might increase by 30% at a given restaurant)

Separately, when the French channel Gourmet TV was launched on March 19, 2002, Derek Brown indicated that *inspectors' average age is 36*! This is much younger than I had expected (I would have guessed 45-50).  Apparently, apprentices are accepted generally in their late twenties, and generally travel initially with another inspector for the first six months on the road.  

[cabrales]

An older (February 2001) article in L'Hôtellerie contains an interview with Derek Brown. The following is a very rough translation of selected excerpts:

Q: One senses at Michelin a concern about openness and communication. Is that a deliberate effort and a way of marking your arrival?

A: That reflects our new image. The world is more open, more transparent. There is therefore a need on our part to explain ourselves to our clients so that they better understand. That’s my responsibility. We don’t have anything to hide: our goals are very clear and our system is very transparent. . . .

Q: But could transparency reach the point where hotels and restaurants have a “formula” to be featured in the Red Guide, which is very important for them?

A: I am very alert to our responsibilities vis-a-vis professionals, but our first responsibility remains with our readers, those who buy the guide. We are not consultants for the industry and it appears, to me, impossible to advise in the first instance, and judge thereafter.  The guide is one for the readers; the stars are their stars. I believe that, despite everything, we also the support of professionals who also have confidence in our goals.

Q: If one believes certain testimonials, you have never been loquacious to explain [to professionals], for example, the reasons for the loss of a star ....

A: Before asking us that question, they have to ask that question of themselves. Do they have an idea on that point? That moment of reflection is very important. We receive many reader letters and that’s very important, but the judgments remains ours. It’s true that we don’t give instructions or a “formula”, but I think that those who are interested have themselves received clients’ comments. Our role isn’t to explain to a professional how to conduct his business. We don’t feel we have the right, but we apply our knowledge for the benefit of our cients.

Q: You know the importance of a star for the entire industry. Certain people ask themselves whether it is possible to garner a star if they do not have a luxurious facility.

A: Insofar as clients accept it, the absence of luxury isn’t penalized. Of course, since paper tablecloths, things have evolved, but we do not give out stars for sumptuous facilities. There are lots of examples in the guide. It’s inappropriate to pretend that we urge that and I’m hearing that idea dissipate. Very often, and depending on the needs of clients, it’s true that restauranteurs invest once they have obtained 1, 2 or 3 stars. They also want to work under nice conditions. For us, the star is on the plate. One star is somebody who has mastered his area technically and who, in his category, leaves the realm of the ordinary. This could be a little bistro more looked after than others. Everybody can dream of that.

Q: Certain cities or regions are already well provided-for. Does that not inherently limit ambitions?

A: Not at all; this idea must be abandoned. The award of stars is something natural, but not automatic, because we do not find every year people who have the talent and the dedication to achieve or maintain 1, 2 or 3 stars. At the level of 3 stars, we only have 22 in France, but there’s no reason to adhere to that: If we found five restaurants to whom to give [3 stars], we would give it to them. . . ."

[cabrales]

For members who speak French, below is a link to the official Michelin press release with respect to the 2002 Red Guide:

http://www.viamichelin.com/viamich....202.pdf

If members are interested in a translation of the commentary in the press release (including on the 2-star promotions), please let me know.  

[cabrales]

The following is a rough translation of an article (not necessarily particularly recent) from Le Monde:

"The day after they received three stars, the three chefs were invited to prepare one of their dishes for a 'family photo', an exercise that was more revealing than a lengthy speech. Guy Savoy chose his braised veal knuckle with winter vegetables and a truffle juice . . . . Christian Le Squer, chef at Ledoyen, from Brittany, paid hommage to the lobster of his country, cooked "au naturel", with its own juices elevated by Thai [curry?].  Delicately placed onto the plate with the shells removed from its legs, the piece of crustacean seemed to be [bursting forth with a base] of cannellonis pigmented by the cuttlefish ["seiche" in French] ink and stuffed with "blettes" [this is an ingredient Gagnaire seems to like to use as well]. . . .

For the same occasion, Jean-Georges Klein, the brilliant self-taught chef at L'Arnsbourg, encouraged by [restaurant reviewer] Gilles Pudlowski, presented a series of amuse-bouches: a parmesan 'croute', oysters 'a la diable', a capuccino fo potatoes and truffles, a gelee of snails with a mousse of confit of garlic. Tiny mouthfuls . . . according to the 'deconstructionist' culinary principles claimed by Feran Adria . . . ."

It is interesting that Guy Savoy chose a veal knuckle dish. When Steve P, Marc and I visited Guy Savoy (see "Guy Savoy" in this Forum) shortly after the chef had been awarded his third star, we sampled a veal knuckle dish that looked wonderful, but with the taste of which we were not particularly impressed.  

Also interesting is Klein's decision to serve multiple, small-sized dishes.

[Bux]

stuffed with "blettes" [this is an ingredient Gagnaire seems to like to use as well].

I'm pretty sure this is Swiss chard.

[mikeczyz]

I recently bought a book called Great Chefs of France and it details the day to day goings of several Michelin 3 star restaurants in France. I was wondering which of these restaurants are still around, and which still have three stars.

Restaurant de la Pyramide

Charles Barrier

L'Auberge du Pere Bise

L'Oasis

L'Oustau de Baumaniere

Le Moulin de Mougins

THanks in advance.

mike