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I've found that a restaurant's treatment of something simple/cheap gives a pretty good sense of their overall attitude:

First I pay attention to the items that are complimentary. Bonus points to places that put thought, care, and creativity to these items. Next I pay attention to the staple or "house" items. If they are traditionally prepared, they had better be delicious and well executed. If some creativity is applied, even if the dish might not resemble the original, as long as it tastes good, i approve. Finally, desserts should not be an afterthought. A dessert menu might have only a few selections, but if the crust is flaky and crisp and the filling is set just right, the memory of that pie will linger far after the last calorie was burned.

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Bakery: Their croissant... if I'm paying serious $$, then when I chew it, there can't be a "film" left in the mouth(shortening!!)... gotta be butter!

Some steak joints I like to walk behind the restaurant before I get in(again, if I'm paying more than $40 for my 10oz striploin). Just checking the boxes in the recycle bins tells me enough. If I see the telltale "Excel" vac-pac stuff, I'll order the $20 pasta and spend the rest of it on wine.

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Italian: Carbonara or... Puttanesca, simple enough, very easy to mess up completely.

Used to work in a restaurant that went through 5 10kg bags of potatoes a day for french fries, first cut, then blanched in a steamer, then fried. Some of the best fries I've ever eaten. Then again, there was only one guy doing fries all day long, quality might be lacking, but there are some frozen fries that are quite alright.

The perfect vichyssoise is served hot and made with equal parts of butter to potato.

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