Olio Pizza e Più

[sickchangeup]

Went in for some pizza today, late afternoon style. Pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani was making the pizza's, and we ordered the Margherita Extra (Margherita / cherry tomatoes / bufala mozzarella) & the Marinara (San Marzano tomato sauce / oregano / garlic / basil). This pizzaiolo seems a bit more Anthony Mangieri than Roberto Caporuscio, but ultimately lands somewhere in the middle since he was deliberate, but not meditatively so. Lot's of fustidying around with the oven and the pizza, but this is clearly his bag.

These are just first impressions, but the pizza on the plate is another legit contender. Char is not an over the top flavor element here (unlike, say... Co.), but is certainly present. Looking at the pizzaiolo grab the dough, it looked wetter than what I've seen at Keste. The net effect is that the pizza came out a little bit like a cracker for the first couple of milimeters (the part that touches the oven), then becomes puffy above that (a very slight good fresh tandorri naan like element I suppose). The sauce seemed a bit tangy, the Marinara strongly flavored with oregano. Substituting the buffalo mozz on the Margherita Extra made for the traditional soupy pizza center, which I really like.

There is a certain textural appeal to that thin crunchy crust layer.

While I was there the aforemention pizzaiolo from Keste stopped by to say hello and have a look around. They seemed friendly if not best of friends. Was a bit shameful being caught red handed, since we've been Keste clients from when it opened, and frequently get comped a starter there, but it seems reasonable to expect that pizza fans of all kinds are going to check it out.

"Service" as it is involved about 10 Italian dudes with various roles walking around trying to figure stuff out on the fly, involving themselves in about 45 serious discussions with one another while the meals went on. Clients right now are clearly secondary to figuring out how to serve said clients, sort of like a friends and family period where no one eating is treated like a friend or family. This is clearly better than 10 dudes who don't care, but extended waits and frustrations would seem to be unavoidable right now until they figure it all.

I also get the impression this is the anti-Pullino's, I'm not sure I'd order anything apart from pizza (which is certainly large enough for a big meal), but will let other brave souls figure that part out.

[davythefatboy]

The peperonata side dish was respectable.