Tea Tasting: Two 2010 Japanese Shinchas

[Richard Kilgore]

Almost. Many times seemingly very small differences in brewing technique and parameters may make for interesting results. Not only the higher or lower leaf:water ratios, but 158f or 165f; 10 second steep on the second infusion or immediate pour; fast or medium pour rate vs. excruciatingly slow pour rate; temp increases of 4 - 5f or 10f for infusions past #2. Even differences of 3 - 4 degrees may make a difference. Not all of these every time for all shinchas have an effect, of course. And I would not have thought it until I tried it on several shinchas, but there you go.

Are you using tap water or filtered or bottled water? What type of kyusu?

[Wholemeal Crank]

Tap water; and my tokoname kyusu that I shared in the teaware topic.

For the second infusion, I am counting to 10, and pouring. I have not attempted to count the timing on my pour, but the sasame certainly halved it or more vs a gaiwan or small glass teapot with small strainer spout.

I have not tried tap vs bottled or filtered water with this tea, but have never noticed a difference with water from the water cooler ("spring" water, IIRC) vs the tap, or one time brewing with filtered tap water from the fridge at home (when the tap water was turned off), although I have not done head-to-head tests with the same tea.

[Wholemeal Crank]

Another shincha session:

2 grams of each tea in porcelain gaiwans using 2 ounces of water

Waiting for water to cool down in a pitcher for the Kabusecha, then pouring from the teapot which maintains temp for the Saemidori

First infusion 30 seconds:

Very similar flavor profile, except that the Saemidori seems to have a deeper vegetal element with more umami; both are mellow, bitter-free, pleasant.

2nd infusion about 5 seconds until I started to pour, then variable long pour times because of less than ideal match between brewing instrument (gaiwans) and finely broken teas:

Near bitterness coming out in the Saemidori, none in the Kabusecha, both still mellow and the SaeMidori is still more deeply vegetal and umami-rich. No brininess anywhere, even in this difficult infusion.

3rd infusion, 30 seconds, water 160 degrees for both:

Again nothing bitter or briny, but there is a deep sweetness coming out in the Kabusecha that reminds me of roasted corn. This might be the best infusion yet.

Experiment stopped after the 3rd infusion, because of frustration with the messiness and scorched fingers.

But overall, successful in pointing out the mellowness and gyokuro-like aspects of the Kabusecha, and demonstrating that the depth of the umami in the Saemidori might be even greater than the Kabusecha, and which one I prefer at a given moment will be vary depending on which exact infusion I'm comparing. My first experience with the Kabusecha was a little rougher than my first brewing of the Saemidori, but after playing with the Kabusecha, I can find conditions like today's where I clearly prefer it.

This brewing today, and another brewing of a different tea yesterday, where I finally had the feeling that I was tasting the difference in the same tea brewed in different vessels, are really giving me a better sense of what is possible when you really pay attention to your tea. Amazing to think that I was *afraid* of sencha until just about a year ago.

Edited August 22, 2010 by Wholemeal Crank (log)

[Wholemeal Crank]

Playing today with the Saemidori: 3 grams instead of 4-5, and water 148 degrees in preheated kyusu when I added the tea, first infusion 30 seconds. The results is a little lighter in flavor, but still umami over the sweet. And a warm flavor of roasted corn--not supersweet corn, but regular sweet corn--is how the umami manifests, with no hint of briny oceans lurking about.

2nd infusion was more like a flash rinse, water 160 degrees, and the flavor is similar, although the hotter temperature seems to intensify the sweet a little.

3rd infusion at 170 degrees, 30 seconds, very deep green color just like the 2nd infusion, flavor again seems a little sweeter than in the very first infusion, I think because the umami is thinning and the sweet has less competition on the tongue. Quite nice. Towards the end of this infusion, there is a hint of astringency just peeking out from under the sweet, daring me to continue the temperature progression with the next infusion, so I will.

4th 180 degrees, holding with 30 seconds, trusting the hotter temps to bring out enough flavor, a little between the flavors of the 2nd and third, with the roasted corn umami coming up again, but the sense of sweet not fading, and still virtually no astringency. Nice.

This is the most varied temperature series I've used yet in one brewing, and it is quite remarkable how it kept the flavor so nearly constant.

[baroness]

In fairness, I would like to state that my general tea preferences rank as follows: oolong, black, green, then white/yellow. I found these 2 teas quite different from the greens I have enjoyed previously.

First, I tried the Saemidori, 1 gram leaves per ounce of Brita-filtered NYC water at 158f. The leaves were a vivid dark green, starting out looking like needles but gradually unfurling as the brewings continued. The aroma reminded me of VERY ripe apricots.

Brew 1: 30 sec Aroma of cooked peas; color a light spring green; quite clear; reminiscent of a light vegetable broth.

Brew 2: 10-12 sec Cloudier; darker color; heavier body with hints of spinach and artichoke.

Brew 3: 30-45 sec This was my favorite. Clearer than #2, lighter color; flavor more pleasing and balanced.

Brew 4: 90 sec, 5 degrees hotter This was my next favorite. In appearance like #1, with an emerging sea aroma and mineral notes.

Brew 5: 3 min, another 5 degrees hotter Similar to #4 overall.

Then I tried the Kabusecha; same water and general leaf appearance as above, but the leaves' aroma was more like spinach and/or seaweed. Brewing temp was 149f .

Brew 1: 30 sec Pale olive color; quite clear. Notes of the sea and asparagus.

Brew 2: Immediate pour Deeper color and somewhat cloudy. Slightly bitter but a richer and more balanced flavor.

Brew 3: 30 sec This was my favorite; color as #2, bitter note is gone and a full, rich taste.

Both teas were tasted alone (without food). I enjoyed the Kabusecha that way; not so much the other. I think I would enjoy the Saemidori more with light food such as sushi, sashimi, or even rice crackers. On its own, it kept bringing images of miso soup to mind! Another issue for me was the temperature of the brewed teas; much cooler than I would normally drink...this did not add to their appeal for me.

----------------

I plan to try to brew them "western style" next to see what flavor notes appear, and will report back on those results.

[Richard Kilgore]

Thanks for the detailed notes, baroness. The green teas you have had in the past have all been Chinese, is that right?

[baroness]

No, Richard.

I drink genmaicha fairly regularly, and senchas as well as the Chinese greens now and then.

[Richard Kilgore]

That's interesting. The genmaichas would definitely have a different profile compared to shinchas/senchas. There are many, many senchas, and they have somewhat different flavor profiles due to region, breed and processing, but most are typically brewed at about 158f. Have you been brewing your other senchas at a higher temp?

What kind of brewing instrument did you use above?

I have not brewed these western style, although I have brewed senchas western style in the past, so I'll be interested in reading about how this works out for you.

[Wholemeal Crank]

Can you suggest parameters for Western style brewing, baroness?

I think I have enough of the saemidori for a go at that, but not enough of the Kabusecha.

[Wholemeal Crank]

What the heck, tried it blind this AM: 4.3 grams of leaf, about 8 oz water at 160 degrees, between 1 and 2 minutes of brewing--lost track there, and it was a little bit complicated.

I used this setup:

and the very fine filter slits clogged up so quickly that it took a while to drain the last of the water from the tea leaves, so the leaves saw water for probably closer to 3 minutes, but most of the water was drained off by about 2 minutes.

So odd brewing, but a nice tea, medium umami, sweetness clear around the umami, young spring vegetable flavors.

The only problem will be the extended cleanup of the tea cup insert slits.

Edited August 31, 2010 by Wholemeal Crank (log)

[baroness]

It's been torrid here; the Thermopen is registering almost 100F on just opening it...

Since the (lukewarm) drinking temp has been unpleasant, I bumped the brewing water temp to 153F for 'western style';

2 grams Kabusecha leaves to 6 ounces water.

Brew 1: Tasted at 60 sec; needed more time to develop. Total brewing time 2 minutes. Pale to medium olive color; very clear. Vegetal notes, touch of mineral; very slight bitter note.

Brew 2: Immediate pour. Deeper color and still quite clear. The bitter note is totally gone and the tea developed a richer and more balanced flavor.

Both of these cups were quite enjoyable!

[baroness]

And, I tried a 3rd brewing, after the above notes, for 3 minutes at 153F.

Still pleasant, but beginning to fade both in color and strength of flavors.

[Wholemeal Crank]

Back to the kyusu, so much nicer to use the right tool for the job.

Started with 4 grams of kabusecha, in the 5oz kyusu, and water 140 degrees for 30 second first infusion, flash rinse 2nd infusion, then 155 for third infusion, 170 for fourth, and 190 for the fifth.

Overall my impression is of a smooth progression of very similar-tasting infusions: the aftertaste of the 3rd infusion managed a hint of bitterness; a bit more sweetness was brought out by the heat at the 4th; the fifth showed the leaves were done, nothing left to give.

[Richard Kilgore]

The Kabusecha, which is in between a sencha and a gyokuro, has worked well for my tastes brewed in a Japanese ho-bin or kyusu at a range of leaf:water ratios, from .75g/ounce to 1.25g/ounce. Temps from 140f - 149f. A little different each way, but pleasant. I think I enjoy it the most with 1.25g of leaf, but as usual, YMMV.

Thanks to Dan at yuuki-cha.com for providing the two shinchas for this Tea Tasting & Discussion. And to baroness and Wholemeal Crank for participating and writing up such helpful tasting notes.

A new TT&D starts shortly, so check the Coffee & Tea Forum regularly, or subscribe to the forum and you will be among the first to know each time a new TT&D begins with an offer of free teas.

[baroness]

I tried the Saemidori 'western' style today.

Brewing water temp to 153F for 'western style';

2 grams leaves to 6 ounces water.

Brew 1: Tasted at 60 sec; needed more time to develop. Total brewing time 1.5 minutes. Pale to medium olive color; very clear. Less aggressively vegetal notes compared to gongfu style. Reminded me of my favorite (#3) brewing in the other manner.

Brew 2: Immediate pour at 160F. Deeper color and a fair amount of sediment. The flavor is beginning to fade a bit.

Of the two, I vastly prefer the Kabusecha. Thanks, Richard and yuuki-cha.com for the opportunity to try these teas.

[Richard Kilgore]

Thanks to Dan at yuuki-cha.com for providing these first-of-season 2010 shinchas for this Tea Tasting & Discussion. And thanks to baroness and Wholemeal Crank for participating in the tasting and discussion.

There are two new TT&Ds going now in this Coffee & Tea forum, one for teas for iced tea and one for Chinese green teas. Two more TT&Ds are right around the corner, so if you subscribe to the Coffee & Tea forum, you'll be among the first to know.